What is due to the emergence of most waves in the oceans and the seas, the destructive energy of the waves and the most giant waves, and the large tsunami who ever seen a person.
The highest wave
Most often, the waves are generated by the wind: the air moves the surface layers of the aqueous thickness at a certain speed. Some waves can accelerate to 95 km / h, while the wave can be up to 300 meters long, such waves pass huge distances across the ocean, but most often their kinetic energy is quenched, it is consumed even before they reach sushi. If the wind subsides, then the waves become smaller, ironing.The formation of waves in the ocean is subject to certain patterns.
The height and wavelength depends on the wind speed, from the duration of its impact, from the area covered by the wind. There is a correspondence: the greatest wave height is one seventh part of its length. For example, a strong breeze generates waves up to 3 meters high, an extensive hurricane - an average of 20 meters. And this is already truly monstrous waves, with roaring foam caps and other special effects.
The highest regular wave of 34 meters was marked on the territory of Agullas ( South Africa) In 1933, sailors from the American vessel "Ramapo". The waves of such a height are called "the killer waves": even a large ship can easily be lost and even a large ship can be lost between them.
In the theory, the height of normal waves can reach 60 meters, but they have not yet been fixed in practice.
In addition to conventional wind origin, there are other waveforming mechanisms. The cause and epicenter of the birth of a wave can be an earthquake, a volcanic eruption, a sharp change in the coastline (landslides), human activity (for example, a test of nuclear weapons) and even a fall in the ocean of large celestial bodies - meteorites.
The biggest wave
This tsunami is a serial wave, which is caused by any powerful impulse. The feature of the tsunami waves is that they are quite long, the distance between the ridges can reach tens of kilometers. Therefore B. open Ocean The tsunami does not represent much danger, since the height of the waves is obtained on average no more than a few centimeters, in record cases - a meter of one and a half, but the speed of their distribution is simply unthinkable, up to 800 km / h. From the ship in the open sea they are not noticeable at all. The destructive strength of the tsunami acquires, approaching the coast: the reflection of the shore leads to the compression of the wavelength, and the energy does not go anywhere. Accordingly, its (waves) of amplitude increases, that is, height. It is easy to conclude that such waves can achieve a much greater height than wind waves. 
The most terrible tsunami arise due to significant violations of the relief of the seabed, for example, tectonic faults or shifts, due to which billions of tons of water begin to move sharply by tens of thousands of kilometers at speeds reactive aircraft. The catastrophes occur when the whole lot slows down on the beach, and its colossal energy first goes to extension of height, and in the end, it feels dry onto all its power, water wall.
The most "cunning" places are bays with high shores. These are real tsunami traps. And the worst thing that the tsunami almost always comes suddenly: when the situation on the sea can be indistinguishable from low tide or tide, ordinary storm, people do not have time or even think evacuated, and suddenly they overtake their giant wave. The alert system is small where it is designed.
Territories with increased seismic activity - special risk zones and in our time. No wonder the name of this natural phenomenon has a Japanese origin.
The worst tsunami in Japan
The islands are regularly attacked by waves of different caliber, and among them are truly gigantic, entailing human sacrifices. Earthquake U. eastern coast Honshu Islands in 2011 caused tsunami with a wave height of up to 40 meters. The earthquake is estimated as strongest in the described history of Japan. The waves struck strikes around the coast, together with the earthquake, they took the lives of more than 15 thousand people, many thousands were missing. 
Another highest wave in the history of Japan fell in 1741 to the west of Hokkaido Island as a result of the volcanic eruption, its height is approximately estimated at 90 meters.
The largest tsunami in the world
In 2004, on the islands of Sumatra and Java Tsunami, caused by a strong earthquake in Indian Ocean, Wrapped with a large-scale catastrophe. Died, according to various sources, from 200 to 300 thousand people - a third of a million victims! To date, it is precisely this tsunami is considered the most destructive in history. 
And the record holder in the height of the wave is the name "Lita". This is a tsunami, rushing in 1958 on the bay of literal on Alaska at a speed of 160 km / h, was provoked by a giant landslide. The wave height was estimated at 524 meters.
Meanwhile, the sea is not always dangerous. There are "friendly" seas. For example, no river falls into the Red Sea, but it is the cleanest in the world. .
Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Dzen
5 most famous surf spots where legendary huge waves come
The biggest
waves of the world
5 most famous surf spots
Where the legendary comes
Huge waves
Waves most often calm and fascinate a person watching them. Just imagine: the beach, sunset sun sinks in the ocean waves, one after another incident white foam on the golden sand. "Idyll", "you say. And now imagine: the strong gusts of the wind, the cold-taking breeze and a huge 30-meter wave, which grown right in front of you in seconds. "Idyll", "will say Big Wave surfers. Today we will tell about the most famous sobs with big waves: how and where these ocean halki come from and who is hunting behind them.
Mavericks, California
Perhaps these giant waves became the most popular and familiar to people even far from surfing, and all thanks to the film "Wave Conquerors" (2012), telling the real history of young Surfer Jia Moriarty, who conquered the most memories. But now is not about it. Received its name Spot in the distant 1967, when three surfers' friends came to ride on a nameless spot. With them there was a dog - the German Shepherd Dog nicknamed Maverick, who loved to swim next to the guys. Leaving PSA on the shore, they swam on a boat to Line-Au, but the dog still went to them. The boat had to deploy to stronger to tie Maverick - the weather was strongly spoiled, and the dog was unsafe to be in the water. In terms of skiing, that day was not successful: the guys are surfing near the coast, and the giant waves, getting far in the ocean, seemed to them very dangerous. Returning to the shore, they decided to call the place in honor of the dog, whom that day was lucky much more.
Since then, the small town of Half Moon Bay in Southern California has become Mecca for surfers, who do not know without deadly waves. But not for everyone. For many years, Spot was a great secret, zealously protected only by the elected. And all the rumors about Mavericks were more like insane Bedding. Only in the 90s, thanks to the magazine Surfer Magazine, Spot got a broad publication and became a magnet for all those who wish to stand and run the killer waves.
Such power these waves are acquired thanks to the unique design of the bottom: at the removal of about one and a half kilometers from the coast, the reef has recesses, which, as a pump, pump the wave with an additional volume of water coming from other deep-sea reefs. But this is just the "good friend's meeting on the threshold": the waves themselves are formed long before the approach to the shores of California. Maveriki in its original state - storm echoes in nearby areas of the northern part Pacific Ocean. Overcoming the distance of 320 km (perfect option), the waves move to south, driven by Western wind. Another important component for Big Maverick is the period with which Swella waves come to reefs, this period must exceed 16 seconds. When all factors fold together, a huge 25-meter wall grows in front of you.
Nazare, Portugal
The waves of Nazare "feed on" the strong storms of the Atlantic, reaching in a height of more than 30 m.
Who would have thought that the usual fishing village in the MiG would be the surference center of attraction? And all thanks to not so long ago open sight with truly frightening waves. As in the case of Maveriks, the deep Canyon Nazaré (CANHÃ Da Nazaré) plays on the hand of the Surfers. This is the largest underwater gorge in Europe, stretching along the coast of 170 km. In places the width of Canyon Nazare reaches 5 km, and the depth of about 300 m. The waves of Nazare "feed on" the strong storms of the Atlantic, which are moving to Europe. Canyon, as if the arrow directed by straight to the beach of Praia do Norte, enhances the power of the wave, and the sharp drop of depth between the gorge and the reef allows the waves to grow in height, reaching 30 m, and sometimes more. Madmen who conquered such giants, abound. To take at least the owner of the Guinness record, American Garrett McNamaru, in the 2011 mounted wave a height of 23.7 meters. And after 2 years he has proved success, conquering, all in the same Nazare, a 30-meter giant. The deadly storm "Holy Judas" helped Braziltsu Carlos Burle for 1.5 meters to scat McNamar. By the way, Girl Burle - Big Vave Surfers Maya Gabeira - almost said goodbye to life, falling from the Giangskaya wave in Nazare.
Jaws, Hawaii
Hawaiian Spot Jaws (jaws) on the northern coast of Maui Island is glad to open its "fall" for everyone from November to March. Such a name was painted by local surfers in 1975 in honor of the newly elected blockbuster of Stephen Spielberg. The waves and the truth stands here are similar to the unpredictable behavior of the shark: Suddenly, a friendly wave can turn into an 18-meter monster. Jaws come through the storms rich in the Big Wave Entertainment of the Pacific Ocean. These high, fast and powerful waves attract town-in-surfers, i.e. Those who fall on the wave by towing on a hydrocycle. By the way, this method was invented on the sewage of the jaw in the 1980s. Jaws arise due to the underwater ridge, which appeared as a result of the volcanic eruption. The ridge dramatically slows down the rapid movement of the coat, driven by sharp wind gusts, and the reef, concentrating all this mass, collapses it in a certain place. In the very, where the XXL Big Wave Awards will be held on May 1.
Teahupoo, Tahiti
Spot the meal (or rather, on the local dialect, the name is pronounced as "Chop") located in the south-west of the main island French Polynesia. - Tahiti in the Pacific Ocean. Translated, the name sounds like "to tear the head" and quite justifies it. Of course, it appeared as a result of bloody intergovernmental wars, which happened in these edges hundreds of years ago. But today it does not lose relevance. And all because the giant heavy waves rise 500 meters from the coast and rushes on a slightly covered reef shallow, sharp, like a thousand knives. In the merit of the strong south-western Svetla, carrying the left wave, and the unique semicircular "gear" relief of reef, shepherdly go down, allows her to show him in all his insidious heavyweight gleys. It seems that the giants grow simply from nowhere.
Rice Vartenberg.
Surfer, traveler
"When I got out of the water after my first cruel" kiss "with reef in ChOPU (on the hip), one of the surfers who developed on the shore, said that I was lucky, since I did not grab this beauty face. And then I understood: Yes, damn, I really am lucky! "
Chop is included in the list of "Top 10 deadly waves" of Transworld Surf magazine. All the power of the "Sorvi-head" experienced Surfer Bruce Taarea for himself in 2000. The unsuccessful attempt of the Duck-dive shouldn for a 4-meter wave ended for professional athlete death: a powerful wave pushed the athlete, throwing it to reef. From the neck of the neck and the spine Bruce fell into someone, and then died in the hospital.
Pipeline, Hawaii
What to say, Hawaii - historical Motherland Surfing, mounted on his waves of riders of all levels and ages. But the hunters for big waves here there is a certain point - spotlight on the shore of Oahu, or rather, on the beach of Banzai. In winter, there are huge (up to 10 meters) pipes, which, closing in shallow water, add 10 more points to the level of danger. It is noteworthy that, depending on the size of the incoming drill, the paipleine wave breaks into several peaks, the most replaced from which is First Reef. It is logical, because the reef rumbles into the ocean is divided into three parts by the depressions that give the incoming waves additional power. Meeting with shallow water, all this tremendous mass is embroidered, creating an ideal, but damn dangerous pipe. By the way, about pipes. Pipeline received its name, which is surprising, not at all for the features of the waves. It was in 1961, when the director Bruce Brown decided to shoot several guys on nameless waves for his surfership film "In Search of Summer". And very nearby work on laying underground communications in the ocean. So Brown and dubbed the place - the pipeline is very neromantically. Since the 1970s, the Billabong Pipeline Masters competitions are held every year, on which the strongest athletes are fighting with elements for a prize of $ 425,000. But not so everything is rosy: since 2000, 6 deaths of professional surfers and photographers have been recorded here.
Of course, these are not the only places on the ground where you can meet face to face with huge waves. But to find out, and most importantly, to understand them all, you need to make a lot of effort. Not only physical, but also mental. After all, Big Wave Surfing - the enterprise is deadly. And for those who still dream up, for example, Maveriki, we came up with the motto: "Learn. Ride. Rule. "
Ocean, sand, beach, cocktail, chaise longue and waves in 30 meters high. Yes, it's all in one place, but fortunately, at different times. How can this be? Go to the town of Nazare on west coast Portugal. It is here, on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean you can see and relaxed beach restand the very big waves in the world.
This attraction of Portugal is located between the capital Lisbon and the city of Porto.
Summer is small resort town Nazare, with a population of about 15,000 people, is a classic tourist facility of the country. His long sand beaches Tourists occupy from all over the planet. They do not fit under the affectionate sun, bathe in Atlantic Ocean. In general, an ordinary serene rest.
In winter, everything changes dramatically. Beach tourists replace extremals and fans of unusual natural phenomena. During this period, it is possible to observe the formation of gigantic waves, which collapsed on the coast almost at the distance of an elongated hand. This is an incredible in their power and amazing on beauty phenomenon attracts travelers, and the most desperate surfers.
Who makes the biggest waves on the planet
Once again we recall that almost everything is amazing, beautiful, sometimes frightening, but fascinating on our planet is produced by nature. In this case, the creator of the giant waves became an atypical terrain of the ocean bottom near the city of Nazare, in particular underwater Northern Canyon At dawn. This deepening in the bottom surface comes to almost the coast, forming a kind of springboard for ocean waves.
It should be noted that the Canyon Nazare is recognized as the deepest in Europe and one of the deepest in the world. It is not parallel to the coast, but perpendicularly. Its length is 227 km, and the depth reaches 5 kilometers (it is almost half of the depth Mariana Vpadina). As you approach the coast, the depth decreases sharply, creating a barrier on the path of the wave and repeatedly increasing its height. There are conditions under which colossal masses of water should jump over this obstacle. Do not forget, all this happens in close proximity to tourists.
In the figures below you see the geological reasons for the appearance of huge waves.
Typical Giant Wave Education Scheme But that is not all. One bottom relief is not enough to get the highest waves. This requires a combination of many factors.
Hellish cocktail for getting bigger waves
The presence of the canyon creates special conditions for creating large waves. It shares the wave into two parts. One piece increases its speed when the canyon passes, and the second is reunited from the first outlet of the canyon in one big wave.
The opposite ocean flow running from the beach can add a few more meters.
For the birth of a gigantic wave, a wave period is important, which should be about 14 seconds. The wind, oddly enough, should be weak. Very importantly, the direction of the wave, ideally, should go from the West or the North-West. Plus, storms in the northern part of the Atlantic occurring during the fall - winter are added to these factors. The combination of these factors can increase several times the usual ocean wave.
How often big waves appear
Looking at the photo on the Internet, as well as on our site, you might think that gigantic waves in Nazare are formed almost every minute. But it is not. A little higher you learned how much the emerging phenomena is required to obtain huge wave. This happens not so often.
The Big Waves season in Nazare comes from October to February. In these months, it usually happens from 1 to 6 giant waves and dozens and hundreds of much smaller waves. If you want to see a truly huge wave, then plan to spend here at least 2 weeks, or watch forecasts on surfers' sites. For big Wave The forecast should indicate the size of the wave of more than 3 meters, the wave period is more than 13 seconds and a small northern wind.
If you are already in place, then check the condition of the sea in real time through the online forecast and webcams. But even if all forecasts indicate the ideal conditions for the emergence of big waves, everything can change literally in an hour and ruin the day with a favorable forecast.
But in Peru you can see the longest sea waves in the world. They are much safer than waves in Nazare, and you can ride them up to several minutes in a row, passing not one hundred meters on the crest of one wave
The story of the conquest of giant waves Nazare
There are people in the world who are "honey not feed," give only the biggest waves. Usually they are called surfers. They, probably, with the advent of the boards began to collect on the planet the most best places For your hobby. They did not bypass and waves from the city of Nazare. For the first time, surfers were noticed here in the 60s of the last century. Since then, they are frequent guests here. But there is no data on the conquest of huge waves. Only in November 2011, the world found out about taking the biggest wave. Then Garet McNamar - Surfer with Hawaiian Islands - conquered a wave 24 meters high. The brave comrade did not calm down and in January 2013 broke his record, taking a 30-meter wave.
Gareth was the first to describe the feelings from such a adventure. It turned out to be incredibly difficult due to the unpredictability of the behavior of the wave.
In this event, McNamara involved three assistants and one wife (her). At the time of the origin of the wave, the first helper on the hydrocycle tries to drag the surfer as much as possible on the ridge, and stays near him for the suspension. Look at the photo of these waves, and you will realize that it is unrealistic to get to them.
A little indeed runs the second assistant and insures both. The third is watching all the others. And from the shore, he watches the gray wife and gives instructions to her husband, how best to catch the wave.
For the first time, everything went fine and the help was not needed, but the second time proved the effectiveness of triple insurance. Then the first assistant was flushed with a wave from a hycrocker, and the surfer pulled the second assistant, and the third pulled out the first.
The danger of such an adventure is extremely high, so the surfingists try not to climb the waves in 30 meters high without particularly on this. They do it only for the sake of records.
In October 2013, Brazilian surfer Carlos Berl swept on the wave, which turned out to be even more. But absolutely accurate data on the height of the conquered waves is not, as it is quite problematic to carry out measurements.
Annual Surfer Surfers in Nazare
Despite all the danger of such big waves, in Nazare since 2016, there is a meeting or Surfer Competition Nazare Challenge - WSL Big Wave Tour running the World League League (World Surf League). This contest unites the best surfers from around the world and lasts only one day. In addition, it does not have a fixed date. It all depends on the forecasts of the state of the sea. The period of holding or better to say expectations - from October 15 to February 28. The Day of the Competition is approved 3 days before it. This is the best that can be achieved with the help of modern technology for predicting marine conditions and wind.
For surfers this is a sign event. This is how one of the participants describes it -
"What followed after the starting signal was a dizzying, wild and unprecedented courage, stupidity and skill"
Where it is better to look at the biggest waves
It is best to watch the gigantic wave, standing on her crest on the sief board. So tell any sieffer. Well, simple tourists are optimal to do this from Cape Nazare, where the lighthouse is located. Since the place is very attracted, then you are hardly getting lost. Here is the fort San Miguel Arkanjo. You can also go down to the sand on the beach along the dirt road, but be very careful. In the season of big waves, it is very dangerous.
Now, in addition to the big waves, the sights of Nazare are surfers who "ride them". This, by the way, gives a good idea of \u200b\u200bthe size of the waves. When you see a small little man running away from a multi-torque huge wave, it is possible to imagine how large and the mighty is not only Russian, but also the Atlantic Ocean.
- As a rule, many famous places For surfing, they have a terrain that looks like a relief near Nazare, but in smaller sizes. The most famous Taahupoo on Tahiti, Banzai Pipeline in Hawaii and Maverick's Beach off the coast of California
- Local fishermen have long been afraid of this place. There have been several shipwrecks here. At the bottom of the canyon there is a sunken German submarine of the Second World War
There is a place in the world from which photos and video reports about giant waves often make. The last few years of records in Big Wave surfing to the largest wave taken (both hands and jet) are installed on the same wave of Nazare. The first such record was installed by Hawaiian Surfer Garrett McNamara in 2011 - the wave height was 24 meters. Then, in 2013 he broke his record, driving a wave with a height of 30 meters.
Why exactly in this place the biggest waves in the world?
Let's first remember the mechanism of formation of waves:
So, everything begins far-far in the ocean, where strong winds blow and storm will be blocked. As we know from the school year of geography, the wind blows from the area from an increased pressure into the area of \u200b\u200bthe reduced. In the ocean, these areas are divided by many kilometers, so the wind blows over a very large area of \u200b\u200bthe ocean, passing the water part of its energy due to the friction force. Where it happens, the ocean looks more like a raging soup - did you ever seen the storm at the sea? Here is also about as well, only the scale is more. There are small and big waves here, all the intention imposed on each other. However, the water energy is also not in place, but moves in a certain direction.
Due to the fact that the ocean is very, very large, and the waves of different sizes move at different speeds, during the time, until all this raging porridge comes to the shore, she "sifted", alone small waves folded with others in large, other, on the contrary, mutually Destroy. As a result, it comes to the shore what is called GROUNG SWELL - even ridges of waves, broken into the sets from three to nine with scalers of the clutch between them.
However, not every Swiver is destined to become waves for surfing. Although it is more correct to say - not everywhere. In order for the wave to be caught, it should be shattered in a certain way. The formation of a wave for surfing depends on the structure of the bottom in the coastal zone. The ocean is very deep, so the mass of water moves evenly, but as they approach the shore, the depth begins to decrease, and the water that moves closer to the bottom, in the absence of another exit, it begins to rise to the surface, thus raising the waves. In the place where the depth, and or rather small, reaches a critical value, the rising wave can no longer become more and fell. A place where it happens is called Lainap, there are surfers there, waiting for a suitable wave.
The waveform directly depends on the bottom of the bottom: the sharply becomes sharp, the sharp wave. Usually the sharpest and even tubing waves are born there, where the height difference is almost instantaneous, for example, at the bottom of a huge stone or the beginning of the reef plateau.
Photo 2. 
Where the difference is gradual, and the bottom of sandy, the waves are more gentle and slow. Such waves are best suited to train surfing, so all surf schools spend the first lessons for beginners on sandy beaches.
Photo 3. 
Of course, there are also other factors that affect waves, for example, the same wind: it can improve or worsen the quality of the waves depending on the direction. In addition, there are so-called windy drills, these are waves that do not have time to "seek" the distance, as the storm is raging not so far from the coast.
So, now about the highest waves. Thanks to the winds, huge energy is accumulated, which is then moving toward the coast. As the oceanic drill approached the shore, the oceanic drill is converted into the waves, but unlike other places of our planet, a surprise awaits him off the coast of Portugal.
Photo 4. 
The thing is that it is in the area of \u200b\u200bthe city of Nazare, the seabed is a huge Canyon depth of 5000 meters and a length of 230 kilometers. This means that the oceanic drill does not undergo changes, but it comes to how it is, until the continent, having collapsed on the coastal cliffs with all its power. The wave height is usually measured as the distance from the crest to the base (where something like the depression is often suited to the Word, which increases the height compared to those if they measured at the average sea level in this height of the tide).
Photo 5. 
However, unlike such waves as Mavericks or the theupe, on Nazare, Comb, even if it collapses, never hangs over the base, moreover, it separates it from the bottom point of about 40 meters along the horizontal axis. Because of the spatial distortion of the prospects, in front of the front view, we see water block 30 meters, technically, it is even more, but this is not the height of the wave. That is, strictly speaking, Nazare is not a wave, but a water mountain, a pure oceanic drill, powerful and unpredictable.
Photo 6. 
Nevertheless, the fact that Nazare is not quite a wave, does not make this spot less scary and dangerous. Garrett McNamara says that it is incredibly difficult to drive on Nazare. Usually, three people helps him in the water: one pulls him on Jenet on Lainap, dispelled on the wave and does not float far to trace that everything is in order with the surfer. His will protect the second jet, as well as the third little bit, whose driver is watching all three. Also, near the lighthouse on the rock is the wife of Garrett and tells him by the radio, what the waves go and what can you take. On that day, when he set his second record, not everything went smoothly. The first driver was shot down with Jet wave, so Garrett had to pull out of the foam, and the third hurried to help the first. Everything was done clearly and quickly, so no one was injured.
Photo 7. 
Garrett himself says the following: "Of course, all these damps and technical devices in surfing on large waves are a kind of churches. And in principle, you can do without them, but in this case the chances of perishing much higher. As for me personally, since I had a wife and children, I feel more responsible for them and fear for my life, so I go to all technical tricks, so that with the greatest probability to return home alive. "
Photo 8. 
Photo 9. 
Photo 10. 
Photo 11. 
Photo 12. 
Photo 13. 
Photo 14. 
Photo 15. 
Photo 17. 
Photo 18. 
Photo 19. 
Photo 20. 
Photo 21. 
Photo 22. 
sources
Something surfing was the privilege of the royal species of Tahiti Island. And he was not just an entertainment, but a ritual confirming and strengthening the authority and status of the ruler. Or depriving it. And although now surfing has become a popular sport, it is still not available to everyone. And, it seems, modern surfers inherited the ideology of Polynesians: the real "kings" seek to conquer the highest, most powerful and most dangerous waves.
Each surfer dreams once to conquer the terrible and ruthless water element. We will tell about ten most dangerous and high surf waves.
Pipeline. Oahu Island, Hawaii, USA
There are already seven lives on the account of this wave. Its height on average ranges from one to five meters. Before the title "High" her far, in fact, the danger lies at the bottom of the ocean. The wave is divided into ruthlessly spiny reef, which crips and kills surfers. However, the less popular Pipeline does not become. There are still many athletes, thirsting dangers and adventures at the site of the wave. Apparently, the game is worth the candle.
The main problem of the surfing in these places is the lack of safe zones for swimming, which creates difficulties in the rescue service. Getting to the wounded or lost surfer consciousness on the hydrocycle is very difficult. Therefore, athletes are counting on their own training and ability to detain their breath for a long time.
How to get
The beach where Pipeline is formed is located near the small town of Tupeca and is called Pipeline Beach. The distance from Honolulu Airport to the beach is 50 km away, travel time is about an hour.
From Honolulu's airport, you need to go to the IH-1 W (JBPHH) highway, and then turn on IH-1 W and continue to move towards Wilikina DR, and then minimize the Hi-803 to the Hi-83 E, further continue moving to the side Hi-83 W (pupukea). The beach is located on Kamehameha Highway.
Waimea. Oahu Island, Hawaii, USA
In winter, the peaceful and calm Pacific Ocean is inhabited by giant twenty-meter monsters - children of storms of the northern part of the Pacific Ocean. Waimea wave is formed "next door" with Banzai Pipeline and is considered one of the first monster-conquered pioneers in surfing history.
Big waves took the life of not one athlete, but it seems that it only enhances the feeling of excitement. When the waves reach the heyday, Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational is conducting Bigweight Surfing competitions (translated from the English Big Wave - "Big Wave").
How to get
To try happiness and risk, you do not need to rent a scooter and helicopter. You just need to get to Waimea Beach beach, which is located on Kamehameha Highway, and grab a board with you or rent it there, on the beach. Landmark serves Waimea Bay Beach Park.
Jaw. Hawaii, USA
Jaw wave name (translated into Russian - "Jaws") speaks for itself. Local surfers in 1975 nicknamed her so in honor of the same year that came out in the same year.
The wave "slams down" with the speed of the jaws of the predatory animal and is also ruthless to any delay. In fairness it is worth noting, the analogy with the film was carried out non-random: the types of sharks in these places are really much - from the usual gray to leopard and brazilian glowing.
The wave reaches a height of 18 meters. Such an extreme size is formed by submarine reef. The only opportunity to try to conquer the wave is to take advantage of the hydrocycle that will take you to the place of formation of the wave. It is not handled here, otherwise you can fall down from the 15th meter "wall". By the way, in addition to the hydrocycle, it would be nice to have both a helicopter that will monitor from above for your safety.
Australian Surfer once conquered this wave at night. It seems that this athlete is steel not only the body, but also nerves.
How to get
Jaws Beach, where a wave-target is formed, is five kilometers to the west of Paia - terrain on the northern coast of Maui Island.
Hana Highway route stretches along the entire coast. The task of the motorist is to get to it from any adjacent street and then move north to turn to the right between the road signs 13 and 14. The dirt road will lead straight to the beach and to one of the most dangerous waves on the planet.
Mavericks. San Francisco, California, United States
Wave Mavericks reaches a height of 24 meters. On a second, it is almost a nine-story building. In addition, from hazards - sharks. Although the opportunity to get acquainted close to these inhabitants of the underwater world is extremely small, chances are one to a million. But the awareness of such a meeting itself makes it takes periodically to get the eyes of the ocean in the hope of not missing the approaching "guests".
In 1994, the wave claimed the life of the Surfer Mark Fu. Rescuers for several hours could not find the body of an athlete. Many suggest that Lish (rope, thanks to which, the board will not lose after the first fall), hooked behind the reef and did not give him to the surface. In 2011, two more athletes did not cope with Maveriks.
How to get
By car
To get to Mavericks Beach with Highway 1, you need to drive through Half Moon Bay Community, then turn north on West Point Avenue and go to Pillar Point Marsh Parking, which is located at the end of the road. From the parking zone you need to go down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the trail to the pier.
By bus:
Time on the way from the city to the beach - 50 minutes, the fare is $ 2.25.
At the intersection of Kelly Ave and Church Street there is a stop with which SAMTRANS bus number 17 is departed. It is necessary to drive 18 stops to Pillar Point Harbour. From stop to Mavericks Beach, you must walk 1.7 km away. Turn left on Harvard Ave and go to the end of the road. Then turn right to West Point Ave and continue moving to Pillar Point Marsh. Go down to the harbor and turn right. Follow the trail to the pier.
Teahupoo. Tahiti, French Polynesia
TeaevyPoo called queen waves. She admire and at the same time fear the most experienced surfers. We conquered it relatively recently: less than twenty years ago. The first was a fearless guru of big waves - Laird Hamilton, who, before risk, thoroughly studied all possible "pitfalls". Since then, the Beach of Teaemupo attracts surfers from around the world.
Translated from the local, "TeaemyPoo" means "the place of skulls or beheaded." Five people folded the heads at the Queen's feet, including the surfer, who stood on the board before he learned to confidently walk.
On the beach where you can catch the Teemupo, Billabong annually holds world surf championships. Smear such a wave and become the first to become the owner of the check for five hundred thousand dollars and join the global elite of this sport.
How to get
By bus:
Each day, besides Sunday, in front of the entrance to the airport of the city of Papeete, a bus with orange stripes is sent, on the screen of which "Teahupoo" is written. The place where surfers ride is 800 meters from the coast. To get there, you need to rent a boat. On the shore there are many different companies that provide such a service. One of them is Taxi Boat & Surf Tahiti.
By car:
The distance from Papeete to Teaemupoo - 76.7 km, travel time is 1 hour 37 minutes.
From the capital of French Polynesia Papeete (Tahiti Island) from the airport to the beach you can easily reach the rented car. Move along the main road along the coast. After about 1.5 hours you get to the fishing village of Teahupoo. At the entrance to the village in 100 meters, turn right to Marina de Teahupoo. At the end of the street is Taxi Boat & Surf Tahiti, where you can rent a boat and the rest of the equipment for surfing.
Nazare. Lisbon, Portugal
This wave is a real water monster on the beach Praia de Nazare - its height reaches 30 meters. This giant is obliged to have a rare underwater geography, or rather, the canyon is a major gorge whose depth reaches 5 kilometers.
In 2013, Garrett McNamara rolled down this 30-meter "walls", and broke the world record listed in the Guinness Book of Records. On the lighthouse in Nazare there is a small museum in honor of the record holder.
Maya Gabeira athlete also risked to settle the powerful element. The attempt was unsuccessful. Big Wever Brazilot Carlos Burle was settled for this lady and went around McNamara by 1.5 meters.
How to get
By car:
From Lisbon Airport, follow the "2ᵅ Circular" highway to the north. Then go to "CRIL" and move towards "Cascais" before intersection with the A8 path. Turn under the sign "Leiria" and go to the city of Nazare.
By bus:
There is no direct route to Nazare. It is necessary to get from the airport to Sete Rios Bus Terminal. You can do this either by taxi, or on Aerobus 3, which goes every half an hour from the airport building (the fare is € 3.50). Then you need to transfer the Rede-Expressos bus. Travel time is about two hours. Watch on the schedule and accurate tariffs on this site.
Shipstern Bluff. Tasmania, Australia
Shipstern Bluf's wave opened a local surfer back in 1986, but he held everything in secret for a long time. However, awl in the bag do not hide. In 2000, the location was flooded with surfers from around the world, despite the fact that it was extremely difficult to get to the place and riding conditions are not the most favorable. If you still drop out, then grab with you thick wetsuit, slippers from neoprene and Balaklava, because the water temperature is very low - it will not be possible to splash.
The only way to get to the wave is to rent a boat on the pier. But they say all obstacles are worth it.
How to get
On the road Port Arthur from Nubeena, then through Highcroft Road to Stromlea Rd. You need to move to the end of Stromlea Road, which will lead you to the Cape Raoul Nat.park park. You will see the SHIPSTERN BLUFF sign on the car park. Follow the signs and after a couple of hours of walking along national Park You will leave K. observation site Beach Shipstern Bluff.
Cyclopos. Australia
The name "Cyclops" speaks for itself - an impregnable monster, who is difficult to overcome even with the help of a hydrocycle. In a ten-billion school, the level of complexity is estimated at eleven - the wave rises almost vertically. The legendary Big Weiver Ken Bradshow, seeing the "cyclopa", turned around and left, and not attempted.
Of the obvious minuses: the remittant of the nearest medical center from the wave formation site (about two hours of driving).
How to get
By plane:
Wave Cyclopos is formed off the coast of Western Australia, not far from the town of Esperance. From Perth to Esperana can be reached by plane by local airlines. Time on the way is 1 hour and 35 minutes.
By bus:
The bus departs from East Perth Railway station. For the schedule, follow the website.
Ghost Trees. California, USA
Wave name on Pebble Beach Beach got in honor of white cypresses growing along the coast. With the English "Ghost Trees" translates as "ghost trees."
This wave reaches 25 meters in height and 6 width. Perhaps the coldest and most "sharpened" place in our ten. It is advisable to have thick wetsuit with a special coloring to protect against shark, which was developed in Australia specifically for surfengists, taking into account the physical characteristics of the view of the shark.
How to get
Pebble Beach is located in Monterey, which was proclaimed the first capital of California. Get to the beach, where you can catch this wave, you can by car from the city of San Jose on the speed highway number 101. Distance from San Jose to Monterey - 116 km, travel time is 1 hour 11 minutes.
Dungeons. Cape Town, South Africa
Dungeons is translated as a "prison". Awarded the wave by this name the local athlete, which was covered with two eight meter waves in a row.
The wave is divided into stones in the town called the Ajul Alley, and this nickname is not accidental. The fact is that Dungeons is located close to the habitat of the sea cats, which are the main food in the ration of Shark.
Since 2000, Red Bull has been held here competitions for the Big Wave surfers.
How to get
Before the place of education, the "prison" can be reached only by a boat that you can rent at the Bay Harbor port. Harbor is located in the town of Hout Bay not far from Cape Town. It can be reached from the city center by bus number 108, next from Helgarda station at Victoria Ave. Go out on the seventh stop - ATLANTIC Skipper. Next, a couple of minutes walk down Avenue to the pier.
