Mount Everest (Nepal) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.

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The highest top of the planet Everest calmly looks at the world from a height of 8848 meters. To conquer Everest or, as its local, - Jomolungma ("Mistress of the Winds") - Honor for any climbers, a dream, in most cases the remaining unfulfilled. However, in our age commerce and any tourist routes Its impossible becomes less: at least 35,000 USD and two months of free time in stock (plus excellent health) - and you parcel over the clouds, standing on a 20-meter platform on the top of the world. And if you do not have such impressive reserves on the current account, but I still want to join the beautiful one, you can limit the route in the base or advanced basic camps of Everest. Prices on the page are shown in October 2018.

A bit of history and geography

Everest is the highest point of the planet, the height is 8848 meters. The mountain is part of the Himalayas mining system and lies exactly on the border between China (Northern Slope) and Nepal (South Slope), thanks to which it is possible to make an ascent directly from two countries to choose from.

The appearance of Everest is a trothed pyramid, having two passes - the Northern and South Saddle and two subsidiaries - Lhotse (South) and Changzea (North). On the east side of the pyramid - inaccessible to the climbing wall. From a 5-kilometer height to the top of Everest covered with glaciers.

In the English version, Mountain is called Everest in honor of the head of the Geodesy of British India in the mid-19th century Sir George Everest. Well, the first person rising to the "Trene of God" became New Zelandets Edmund Hillary - it happened on May 29, 1953.

Today on highest vertices The world has been more than 4,000 climbers, and the lion's share of them falls at the recent years of development of mountaineering on Everest and the commercialization of ascents. Every year more than 500 people storm the top, but not everyone reaches it.

Climbing Everest

The entrepreneurship of Everest is held in spring and autumn; During the rest of the year, monsoons are rapped here, the temperature drops to -50 ° C in winter, the strongest winds blow. There are several agencies, including Russian tours. The main requirements for the potential conqueror of Everest: first, the round sum in the reserve (at least 35,000 USD; the optimal package is 55,000 USD), secondly, two months of free time (it is necessary for acclimatization, gradual lifting, training exits, etc. .), third, good health, allowing to successfully pass acclimatization at an altitude of almost 9 km.

The climbing program is based as follows. Arrival in Kathmandu, further flight to Lhasa, two moves to the village closer to Everest, the day of acclimatization and moving to the Basic Camp of Everest to a height of 5300 meters. From the base camp - the cycle of training climbing and the transition to an advanced base camp (6400 m). Actually climbing (on top you stand no more than 20 minutes) and reverse descent, then the route in the reverse order.

The main problem that seesing the conquerors of Everest is the inability to acclimatize. Otherwise, the route is designed for provided by already-everywhere visiting tourists with the most outstanding level of physical training.

If you are not ready to part with such an impressive amount, you can restrict ourselves to the climbing camp of Everest and holding here from one to one and a half months. The cost will significantly decrease - up to 6000-8000 USD.

Coordinates: 27.988056 , 86.925278  /  (G) First climb: May 29, Tencing Norta and Edmund Hillary

Etymology

"Jomolungma" - translated from Tibetan means "Divine". Nepalese name Jomolungma - "Sagarmatha" - means "Mother of the Gods".

English name "Everest" (eng. Mount Everest.) Awarded in honor of Sir George Everest (eng. George Everest., 1790-1866), Head of the Geodesic Service of British India in 1830-1843. This name suggested in 1856 the successor to J. Everest Andrew in (English. Andrew Waugh., 1810-1878), simultaneously with the publication of the results of its employee R. Sikdar, who in 1852 first measured the height of the "peak XV" and showed that it is the highest in the region and probably all over the world.

History of climb

Highest vertices in the Jomolungma region

The first climb was made on May 29, 1953 by Sher Tangzing Norta and New Zealander Edmund Hillary.

Until 1950, about 50 expeditions were held in Himalayas and Karakorum (Jomolungma, Chochi, Kanchenjang, Nang Parbat and other vertices). Their participants managed to conquer several seven thousandths of these mountainous regions, but no attempt to assume the vertices of eight-thousand giants did not have success. The greatest results were achieved by English climbers when trying to climb Jomolungum: in 1924, Norton reached an height of 8565 m, and George Mallory and Andrew Irwin (as N. Odelel) - more than 8600 m (there is a lot of evidence that they died already during the descent From the top, they reached the tops about the vertices, or not, continues today), in 1933 P. Win-Harris, L. Wayger and F. Smith - 8565 m.

The first "eight-thousandth", conquered man, became Annapurna I. In 1950, French climbers M. Erzog and L. Slashenal rose to her.

The victory over the first eight-year-old broke the myth of the inaccessibility of the vertex of such a height and appeared to the climbers for many countries in the desire to "not be disjected" in the commission of the eight-thousandths. Over the next five years, six giants were conquered: Jomolungma (England climbers), Nanga Parbat (Herman Boule, Austria), Choiri (Mountaineers Italy), Cho-Oyu (Mountaineers of Austria), Kanchenjang (Alpinists of England) and Makalu (France's climbers). In subsequent years, this desire has grown. Traditional expeditions of such countries with developed mountaineering, like Austria, England, Germany, France and Switzerland, were added US, Italy, Japan, Argentina, PRC, India, and Later - Czechoslovakia, Poland, Yugoslavia, South Korea And finally, the USSR, Russia, Kazakhstan and Ukraine.

The first woman rising to Jomolungma was the Japanese climbing Yunko Tabei (Junko Tabei;).

Literature

• Iongrhemebend Francis. Fight for Everest, Mr., Gosizdat, 1930.
• John Hunt. Climbing Everest (Zhurn Radi), 1956. (About the expedition Hillary 1953)
• Wilfrid Neus. South Saddle (Everest). M., thought, 1975
• REINHOLD MESNER. Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate (Everest: Expedition to the limit), New York / London, 1979.
• REINHOLD MESNER. Everest Solo (Eng. Edition The Crystal Horizon: Everest - The First Solo Ascent, 1980).
• Messner Reinehard. Crystal horizon, M., 1990. (On the first single climbing on Everest without oxygen and during the monsoon period).
• Everest-82. (Climbing Soviet climbers to the highest peak of the world), M, FIS, 1984.
• Everest, southwestern wall: first owls. Expedition to Everest - 8848 m., Himalayas-82 / Sost. LM Jamsay. - L. Lenzdat, 1984. - 222 p.
• Fritz Rudolph. "Jomolungma and her children", M, Raduga, 1983. (On Everest and the Good Sweet of the Himalayan vertices).
• Kononov Y. Victory over Everest (the first Soviet Expedition to Everest), Kiev, 1985.
• Kielkowski Jan, Mount Everest Massif, Explo, 2000. (Everest surroundings).

see also

Sources

Links

• Routes of enthusiasm to Everest (English), when clicking on the figure appears brief information and route statistics

Coordinates: 27 ° 59'17 "p. sh. 86 ° 55'31 "in. d. /  27.988056 ° С. sh. 86.925278 ° C. d. (G)27.988056 , 86.925278

Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Mount Everest, other Jomolungma names (Chomolungma) or Sagarmatha, the highest peak of the world. Its height has repeatedly moved lately. Therefore, even in official materials there are three sets of numbers: 8848 m, 8850 m, 8844 m. The first one of them fell in our memory. The latter gave measurements from the Chinese side.

This question is difficult, because we are talking about the height of the highest mountain of the Earth. And it is very correct that interested persons agreed to conditionally consider the height of 8848 meters in the near future.

Where did the British name come from?

Himalayas are a very old word, so called and called the highest mountains of the world. Indoorians are no longer one thousand years old. Maybe someone already gave the name and the highest top of this mountainous country? Maybe it will open with time.

Geologists believe that Everest began to form 60 million years ago, when the Indian platform began to drive to the Eurasian. Himalayas and others mountain areas Central Asia is recognized by the young mountains.

In the late 1940s of the XIX century, English geodesists were measured by the height of the vertices located on the border of Tibet and Nepal. It was part of the great work on mapping the outskirts of Indian possessions of the United Kingdom and part of the "big game", directed against the opponent on expansion in Asia, the Russian Empire. For several years, the materials were treated for several years, only in 1856 a report appeared, which contained information that the peak under the number XV reaches a height of 29002 feet or 8840 meters. It must be said that then neither Nepal nor Tibet was then allowed to their territory of foreigners. Therefore, the measurements were carried out from the distance of 170-190 km, from the vertices of the border mountains. The error in this case is determined within 300 meters. So the accuracy was almost incredible.

The unequivocal local name, like, say, Kanchenjangi, did not find English geodesists. I was looking for bad, they just wanted to call the top with their name. However, without long discussions it could not be done. Years and only in 1865, the head of the Geodesic Services, Andrew, was able to negotiate with the Royal Geographic Society to assign the name Mounteverest. In honor of the merits of one of the most prominent researchers in this region of George Everest (1790 - 1866).

George Everest Founded in India in 1806. At first he was a cadet-artillers, then he was sent to the geodesic service. In 1818, Everest became an assistant manager, and in 1823 by the head of the GreatTrigonometricalSurvey. It was under his leadership that the next 20 years was carried out unparalleled at the time, an action on the geodesic survey of Industan from the extreme south to the Pamirs. It was an outstanding job, a real breakthrough in the development of practical geodesy. So the name of the top was given in honor of a decent person.

It's funny that John Everest himself was Wales origin and called himself a manist. But Mount B. english transcription Impedance immediately began to call. For the whole world, poorly speaking in English, she also began to be called Everest .. that with a famous stretch can be called "always resting". Again, it is interesting that George himself was nickname "Naverest" - "Never resting."

Note that Everest himself in 1857 participated in the meeting on the names and spoke out against the use of his name. In his opinion, the name poorly corresponds to local languages \u200b\u200band cannot be assigned to the natives.

Results of cartographic work

And process

Or maybe all the same Gaurizancar?

Schlaguisy Brothers - Real Science Knights

In 1862, the German geographer traveler Hermann Shlaginvait after returning from Tibet, announced in Berlin that this peak had a local name of Gaurizancar. It must be said that this message was favorably adopted by the global scientific community, which did not quite agree that the highest top of the world was so simply gave the English name. Gradually, the name of Gaurizankar became generally accepted, almost everything agreed with this. Even in England. The hot supporter of the allegation in the name of the local name was Douglas Freshfild, the largest authority in geography and mountaineering.

Freshfild was the first climber in the Caucasus (1868). In 1899, he held the first Himalayan expedition "around Kanchenjangi". Together with Clinton, Dent was the first to express the idea of \u200b\u200bthe possibility and need to climb Everest. But I called it for a long time Gaurizankar ...

However, the specialists of the Indian trigonometric service did not give up. They stood on their own and had an advantage: the game happened "on their field and by their rules." At the beginning of the XXVEK, special studies were conducted, which provided the facts that Gaurizankar is a completely different peak. The eternal confrontation of the British and Germans, exacerbated at the beginning of the century, led to the fact that the case acquired a political character. On the eve of World War, England fully accepted the name "Everest."

Francis Younghazbend, the famous intelligence traveler, in the 20th century took the Everestov initiative in his reliable hands ...

And the final victory on a global scale occurred in the early 20s, when the British expeditions fell on the first bands of the newspapers and the name became known to every cultural person. Although at the same time almost everything has become clear that the peak is there, and it was long before the parish of the British. Tibetans and sherpow called the chomolungma mountain. Moreover, this name was also known in Europe. On the maps made by French preachers at the end of the XVIII century stood the name of the chumulanchma. London geographers could not not know about it!

"Call me Chomolungma!"

So the struggle continued further and continues now. The point of view of the opponents of English names in the XX century was supported by the national liberation forces of India. At a meeting of its congress (parliament), they ridiculed the British, not wanting anything to the outgoing "older brother". And the Chinese Communists, together with their Soviet colleagues, preferred the Tibetan Word of Jomolungma (according to our) or Chomolungma (in their own, more correctly). So called the peak of the world our geography textbooks. Under this name, she learned it by the boys Tencing Norki, so called her Sherpi and Tibetans living in the districts.

However, the climbing world as a whole continues to use the name Everest ... Nevertheless, the game continues. "Call me Chomolungma!" Appellez Moi Chomolungma! - Such a slogan was put forward in 2002 in France. He did not have a big response and joined the common canvas of the public struggle for the preservation of the identity of Tibet. Shears the nature of the anti-Chinese company. But for the French (I wonder if they read it like "Schomolungma") and a little anti-English.

A little later, another name appeared: Sagarmatha. It was introduced into use of the Nepalese authorities. They picked up a suitable word of Hindu sound for such a case. Sagarmatha call the highest peak of the world official Nepali documents are so called national Park, organized at her foot.

Sherpo people inhabiting the foot of the mountain, with philosophical tranquility accepted all three names. In the end, the human language is a process. And any object is called as people call it. In this case, Everest percentage of 80 "Everest" and only for the remaining 20 - Chomolungma, and almost zero - Sagarmatha. After all, his name is pronounced, above all, climbers. Or in the context of mountaineering .... and it is with the word Everest, the whole dramatic story of the struggle and victories, the history of Mallory and Irwin, Tenzing and Hillary, Messner and Bonington, Myslowsky and Balberdin, many and many others are connected ...

The story, who made the mountain alive.

Everyone knows that Mount Jomolungma is the highest in the world. However, this statement can be considered correct, if not taken into account absolute height. Jomolungma swells up over the sea level on maximum height Among the mountains of our planet. At the same time, there is a Mauna-Kea volcano, which "grows" from the bottom of the ocean, so its actual height is greater.

Name history

The Tibetan name Jomolungma is translated from Tibetan as "Divine Mother of Life Energy." Such an unusual name of the mountain was given in honor of the Bonn Goddess Sherab Zhambima, which is a symbol of maternal energy. Tibetans were given and the second name of the mountain Jomolungma - Jomo Gang Car, which is translated as "Mother Saint, White, Like Snow."

Another very popular and common name came from of English languageSince it was assigned to the top in recognition of the merit of George Everest. He was a well-known specialist in the field of geodesic studies at the beginning of the XIX century. The successor and student of the scientist suggested his last name as the name of the mountain after one of the service staff, where Everest worked, produced the very first measurement of the "peak of XV", which was considered the highest in Eurasia and on the planet.

There is another name, this grief inhabitants of Nepal. In their language, Jomolungma is pronounced as Sagarmatha. It means "Mother of the Universe". To the highest vertex (gromolungma grief) in Nepal is a particularly reverent attitude, so local residents Prefer to call it in their native language.

Local attraction

In the XIV-XV centuries, Tibetan monks raised an existing monastery at the northern slope of Everest. It is called Rondkbuk. With it inland yard The mountain looks especially attractive and impressive. You can see the top with mountain passthat are located for hundreds of kilometers from her.

Mountain location

It is no secret that many of us know from the school lessons of the geography of Mount Jomolungma. Mainland Eurasia is a territory where the highest peak is located. Even people who do not have deep knowledge in the field of geography know in which hemisphere is located mountain. However, not everyone knows, in which country Jomolungma is located. Hurry up to fill this gap - this is China. In fact, the mountain belongs to two countries - the PRC and Nepal, but her the highest point (Northern Top) is geographically part of China.

The height of the Jomolungma Mountain in the PRC is 8848 meters. The southern peak slightly inferior to her by this indicator. On the territory of Nepal, the height of the Jomolungma Mountain - 8760 meters. As you can see, the difference is not very large (88 meters), but the Chinese are very proud of what the highest peak of the world is on their land. And if you are interested in accurate geographical coordinates Jomolungma Mountains, then they are as follows: 27 ° 5917 p. sh. and 86 ° 5531 c. d.

Thousands of climbers from all over the world annually arrive in these places to conquer Everest, but it is not possible to all. The mountain system with Mount Jomolungma is part of the Mahalangur Himal Range and enters the Himalayas Massif. With his form, this mountain resembles a pyramid with three faces. The southern slope is naked and cool, because it is from this side that snow and ice rushes.

Because of the huge height of Everest, the winds are very very early here. Their speed can reach 200 m / s. Summer air does not heat up above 0 ° C, in January, the temperature drops to -35 ° C during the daytime, up to -50 ° C at night. What the Jomolungma Mountain looks like, you can see in the photo we placed in this review. Agree, the peak looks awesome.

Climate

Mount Jomolungma is characterized by extreme climatic conditions. In the coldest month of the year (in January), the average air temperature is -36 ° C, in some years it descends to -60 ° C. Even in the very warm month (July), the air is not heated above -19 ° C. Pressure on top is only 326 mbar. This is a third of the pressure at sea level. At such a pressure, the boiling point of water is 70 ° C.

In the spring and winter, Western winds are dominated here. In contact with the cold peak, the wet air is condensed and forms a cloud in the form of a flag that is directed to the east. The climbers determine the wind speed on this flag: the flag is in a horizontal position at the wind speed of 80 km / h, with an increase in the speed - it is directed upwards when lowing down.

In winter, the speed of the south-western wind is often 285 km / h. From June to September with Indian Ocean Mussons come to the top. This time is characterized by a large amount of precipitation, and on top of the snow storms. As in most of the high mountain areas, there is a sharp change of weather. Quite often this happens in the main seasons of climbing (May - October). Sudden drops of temperature, snowfall and storms are not rare in these places. In each season there are several days with quite sustainable weather. These are the so-called windows when the most favorable climbing.

Flora and fauna

Due to extreme conditions on Mount Jomolungma Animal and vegetable world It's not too diverse here. At an altitude of 6.7 thousand meters in 1924, a small jumping spider Euophrys Omnisuperstees was discovered. Scientists have found out that these insects feed on chops and flies that live up to a height of 6 thousand meters. And they, in turn, feed on mushrooms and lichens. During the 1925 expedition, 30 types of lichens were recorded.

Such height is capable of transferring only some types of vertebrates - these are several types of birds.

For example, a mountain goose lives to a height of 5.6 thousand meters, and once at an altitude of 7.9 thousand meters was noticed by Klushitz - a variety of mountain check box.

Mountaineering Center

So, we figured out where the Jomolungma Mountain is located - on the border of the two countries - China and Nepal. Now I would like to tell about the crisp trying to conquer the greatest vertex World.

The British expedition went to Nepal in 1953. On May 26, the first attempt to climb, but Charles Evans and Tom Burdillon could not reach the top of just a hundred meters and were forced to return due to lack of oxygen.

At the end of May, Tencing Norki and Edmund Hillary first conquered the highest peak of the world. They made a short-term stop, photographed, and before starting the descent, buried in the snow a small cross and several candies. The names of these pioneers are inscribed in the history of entry into Everest. Their luck was overwhelmed by many lovers of mountain climb, and it should be noted that many expeditions succeeded in this difficult journey.

According to statistics, for 235 people attempt to conquer Everest ended tragically. However, these data do not stop those who want to get to the top and implement their long dream. The main complexity of the rise to the top is an increase in the height of atmospheric pressure, a decrease in air temperature - it is difficult to become not only moving, but also breathe.

Rooms are dangerous here and routes - the Jomolungma Mountain has a specific shape, there are many protrusions and gorges. Despite all the obstacles, courageous climbers still dream to conquer the magnificent peak. Nowadays, climbing lovers rose to the top at previously spent routes.

Basic camps

Those who decided to conquer the top of the Jomolungma Mountain, you can choose one of two options - to start climbing from China or master the Nepalese route. For acclimatization to height and atmospheric pressure, two basic camps are equipped. In each of them, novice climbers and professionals need to be carried out for a while that the body is fully adapted to the new conditions: acclimatization in this case is not a whim of the organizers of ascent, it helps prevent the development of mountainous disease.

In both camps there are experienced doctors who not only assess the health of climbers, but also give them useful advice Before climbing.

What camp choose?

From the side of Nepal, there is a southern camp, and from the Chinese - the North, which in the summer you can get by car. IN last years It is becoming an increasingly popular camp on the south side. Residents of the surrounding villages, previously engaged in animal husbandry and agriculture, are now fully focused on servicing tourists. They help to carry things and supplies into intermediate top control points.

In the South Basic Camp Products, Medicines, Equipment and everything you need is delivered using local pack animals - Yakov. In addition to the main camps on the way to Mount Jomolungma there are several small points, which are located both before the main and after them.

How long will it take preparation and climb?

If we are talking about tourist expeditions, then the duration of the climb (from the moment of arrival in Kathmandu and ending with the conquest of the vertices) is about two months. After a carefully conducted preparatory part, it will take about 7 days to pass from the basic camp to the top. Approximately 5 days will go to the camp.

The rise in the top is allowed only in spring and autumn, because during this period the least winds. In autumn, the rise is carried out only on the south side. The most complex are the last three hundred meters, but all difficulties are instantly forgotten by the form of unearthly beauty, which opens from the top. No photo can be compared with the picture discovering in front of the conqueror of Jomolungma, emotions reinforce the effect of what seen.

Mountain measurements

Jomolungma height was measured relatively recently. The first such assessment appeared in 1852 as a result of trigonometric calculations. In 1950, theodolites have already been used for this purpose. As a result, it was possible to establish an accurate value, which is 8848.13 m. A little later, information began to appear in which these quantities were fluided to smaller, then in the most side. This was due to the fact that peaks make up glaciers that can increase and decrease. The height of Everest is officially recognized as 8848 meters, and at 8,844 meters it ends with a solid breed.

• The best assistants of all climbers without exception are Sherpi - a people living at the foot of Jomolungma. Without them, no climbing is passed. Usually they tolerate things, make the routes, sometimes prepare.
• Representatives of Sherpov - Phurba Tashi and Apa Sherpa - became record holders by the number of ascents on the top. They conquered her 21 times. Three times got to the very top in 2007, Phurba, and in the period from 1990 to 2011 conquered the top of the APA. He talked a lot about changes in jomolungma caused by global warming. He was disturbed by melting ice and snow, because of which every year the climb is becoming more difficult.
• Studies of 1994 proved that every year the mountain increases by 4 millimeters. This is due to the continuing movement of continental plates, which leads to the growth of the mountains.
• Today, Jomolungma is part National Park Sagarmatha in Nepal. Interestingly, numerous climbers leave about fifty tons of waste and garbage on the mountain slopes. In connection with these authorities, Nepal adopted the law on which each climber descended from the top is obliged to collect at least eight kilograms of garbage. Those who do not want to do this should make four thousand dollars in the treasury. It is noteworthy that the Nepalese take money down until the beginning of the climb and return them only after collecting garbage.
• During the climb, climbers lose about 15 kilograms in weight. This is due to fat burning and loss large number moisture.
• In accordance with the statistical data, for every 10 successful lifts to the vertex accounts for one with a fatal outcome. In total, there are about 200 remains on the mountainside of the mountain, which is simply physically impossible to pull to the foot and get buried.
• In 1980, Italian Rainhald Messen managed to conquer Jomolungma alone, without having oxygen cylinders.
• In 2001, Marco Siffrasti on a snowboard descended from the top along the Norton Couliror, held in the center of the northern side of the mountain. He decided to conquer Everest once again in 2002, but disappeared without a trace.
• A team consisting of 410 Chinese climbers has climbed in 1975. This expedition has become the largest in history.
• 1993 became the safest in the history of enthusiasm to Everest. Then 129 climbers achieved the goal, and 8 were killed.
• The Government of Nepal published the data according to which the Sherpa's Sherpa girl became the youngest conqueror, which was 15 years old.
• Many people know where the Jomolungma Mountain is located, but do not everyone know that its conquest - the pleasure is not at all cheap. The average price of group climb will cost you 60 thousand dollars. An independent rise to the top will cost from 70 thousand dollars and more.
• On the mountain there is a dead zone, starting at the finish itself - at an altitude of 7.9 thousand meters. This site received such a gloomy name due to the fact that on this site in the air contains only a third of oxygen in comparison with the atmosphere at sea level. It is for this reason that climbing, as a rule, passes with oxygen cylinders.

Everest - the highest mountain on our planet - rises among the eternal snow of Himalayas at a height of 8848 meters above the ocean and is located on the border of Nepal and China. The peak itself lies in China (Tibet). The peak of Everest is crowned by the main Himalayan ridge.

In 1832, employees of the British Geodesic Service in India, producing the processing of shooting a number of Himalayan vertices, found that the mountain, entitled "Peak XV", is the highest in the region and, probably all over the world. The open vertex was named after them in honor of the head of the Sir George Everest geodesic service (pronunciation in proper transcription: "Ay-Ver-East"). It is this name of the mountain that has become the most popular worldwide. In Tibet, it is called Jomolungma - the "goddess-mother of life." In Nepal, the Mountains are called Sagarmatha - "Mother of God".

Sometimes Everest is called the Third Pole of the Earth, because The climate on it is not less, but even more extremal and harshs than on the poles. The temperature on the top never rises above 0 ° C. average temperature In January, it is -36 ° C and may descend to -60 ° C, and in July -19 ° C (for comparison, in the northern pole in January -40 ° C, in July - about 0 ° C). Wind speed on top can reach up to 200 km / h. In addition, the oxygen content in the discharged atmosphere at a height above 8000 meters is three times less than at sea level. If the Northern and South Poles were achieved at the beginning of the twentieth century (Northern, according to various sources - in 1908-1909, South - in 1911), Everest remained uncompaired until the middle of the twentieth century (1953).

Everest is not easy to see even from afar, as he is lost in the hard-to-reach areas of the Himalayas and is overshadowed by other vertices. To just see the highest peak of the world, you need to go through a relatively large distance and climb one of the nearby peaks. From the Nepalese side, Everest is hidden behind two high mountains - Nuptsze (7879 m) and Lhotse (8516 m), so that Everest is visible enough, you need to climb the mountain of Cala Pattar (5545 m) or Gokio Ri (5483 m), from the vertices which opens good view To the top of the world.

Everest has the shape of a triangular pyramid, which is clearly visible from the aircraft.

The southern slope of the vertex is sharp. From the array in all directions, the glaciers flow at an altitude of about 5,000 m. On the southern slope and the ribs of the pyramid, snow and ice is not held, as a result of which they are naked.

Attempts to conquer Everest began in 1921. Starting from that time, for 32 years, climbers different countries Made fifteen attempts to conquer the "third pole". And only the sixteenth of them crowned victory. The last assault camp of the expedition of the Colonel John Hunt was moved to the top of the top and was at an altitude of 8500 meters. It was set at number 9 - the ninth intermediate camp on the way from the foot to the top. May 29, 1953 at 11:30 minutes 30 minutes of New Zelandets Edmund Hillary and Sherp Tencing Norki for the first time ( official version) Stood at an altitude of 8848 meters - the highest top of the world. There is another version in which the participants of the Third Expedition could be the first to Everest.

Now, annually under the southern and northern slopes of Everest, teams are collected from all over the world, it is usually 300-500 people. Each of them obsessed with a dream - to conquer the most famous peak. For many of them, the ascent to Everest without exaggeration becomes the main goal of life. And all of them without exception is to withstand extreme conditions "Third Pole."

The best time to lift Everest is the beginning of May. Southeast Comb, located in Nepal, is called the South Saddle route, and the northeast ridge - Northern Saddle, begins in Tibet. These are the two most popular climbing routes. For the first time, people rose to Everest from the south.

To the foot of the mountain from the northern parties to reach the base camp on the jeep, and then - on Yaka, to an advanced base camp at an altitude of 6400 meters.

The rise of the voyage to the top of Everest takes about 2 months. It is a permanent "shuttle" up-down in many times. Up - for acclimatization, adjustment of intermediate camps, tossing the railings in complex areas. Down - for relaxation and for a new batch of cargo. At the very peak, we usually come out by one by one - everyone for himself, hoping only for its own strength. The latter, the decisive entrust of the waters lasts on average 15-20 hours. At the same time, after climbing, the climbers lose an average of 10-15 kg of their own weight, or even more.

Climbing Everest - expensive pleasure. Only permission to climb a group of 20 people from Tibet costs $ 5,500, and from Nepal - 50,000 dollars for a team of 7 people.

The history of climbing on Everest is saturated with both records and tragic events. For more than a 60-year history of the conquest of Everest, over six thousand climbers rose to the top, of which 140 Russians. During the same years, the recalcitrant mountain did not let go back more than 200 of his fans.