We offer 10 major impressions about Mongolia. In this country, we drove a lot of roads, from Ulan-Ude to Ulan-Baator, in Erdenet, Moron to Lake Hubsugul. And that's what we made from this ...
1. Attractions
- This is not what it is worth going to Mongolia. There are museums, archaeological parking of ancient people, the Gobi Desert - but all this and other places are very far from the average idea of \u200b\u200bthe sights. In addition, such places are usually located on the outskirts, climb there with public transport almost unrealistic, and given the huge amount of Mongolia to chase the sights that are scattered in different parts of the country and is stupid. 
Mongolia is worth going for sensations, happy about today. Enjoy the sun, steppe landscapes, Mongolian cuisine and communion with local. By the way, most of these "pleasures" are available on the road. From the car and the bus, all sorts of species on the steppe, drivers and passengers relax include, include their favorite Mongolian music, swaying into the beat and sink. 
2. Intercity transport
Mongolia is a weakly developed network of buses and a more accessible network ... machines. Yes, it is the passenger cars that you buy tickets on the bus station, and as soon as they are filled, you can go. Just do not relax: having left the bus station, the driver begins to collect more passengers (bypassing the bus station) to the state of herring in a barrel. At the end, we tried to take a promise from drivers: exactly five people will go? But here there are no guarantees, because the children are not considered for people: the driver nods and pushes into the car for more than three children. The only salvation we found is to shake the camera, talking "tourist-photo" and show on the front seat. There is a chance that you will be allowed to sit there, and you do not have to be crowded with five passengers from behind. 
3. Drivers
long-distance transport also represent an interesting sight. In the first bus station in Darkhan, we saw how they were knocked down in the group, taking the tummy and warm them in the sun. Apparently, the more the tummy, the more respected person. And so on every train station. It is a pity to photograph uncomfortable. 
4. It is clear that nothing is clear - It became our motto in Mongolia. Whatever the situation we have tried to interpret, it turned out that we are wrong. For example, stuffed with the next passengers in the car to drive their item. And a young girl and grandmother go to the point B. Behind the front seats in front of the front seats - one age. All the fun chatting, the girl takes a bottle from the driver and drinks from her, gnawing in the car at once two ice creams in a cup, then lies with a grandmother on his shoulder and falls asleep. From this we make the conclusion that we are going in the car with the family: Mom, Dad, Grandmother and Granddaughter, who drinks from the Bottle of Pope, whom he permits there is ice cream in the car, and who sleeps at his grandmother on his shoulder. Apparently, they took us to pass to justify gasoline. However, on arrival at point B, everyone diverges in different directions and "dad" is the usual bombing. Just in Mongolia, it is normal to drink from someone else's bottle and sleep on someone else's shoulder.
And so every time - not knowing the language and traditions - Epic Fail. 
5. Food
in Mongolia special, it is such a set of products not to find anywhere. First of all, it is meat, a lot of meat, heaps of meat in the portion - the vegetarians here simply do not survive. Round, some potatoes, a lot of araga (mare milk), tea (salted, with butter), almost complete lack of fruit. We heard a lot from foreigners, what, they say, terrible Mongolian food, too, they say, simple and even primitive. Very at such moments were angry and with difficulty held in order not to offer to sit at home and have their own "complex" food. In fact, even though nothing grows here, the variety of ways to prepare and affects the products themselves. The following photo is illustrative: it is the food on the counter - to attract customers. 
6. Main historical mythwhere Mongolian statehood is being built - this is the faith of the Mongolian Empire and the associated figure of Genghis Khan. Calling the state idea by myth, we do not claim that it is false - on the contrary I wonder which story becomes central for self-consciousness different countries. In Mongolian homes, the map of the former Mongolian possessions hang, they can be bought in any bookstore. 
Next to the cards are usually there are different Buddhist accessories and photos of relatives. All this usually forms small altars - a set of main items in the house. 
7. Another reason for pride is that in Mongolia was found a large number of Dinosaur skeletons. True, most of them are in museums abroad (for example, in the New York Museum of Natural Science). In Mongolia and Gobi, the most Tarotic skeletons were found - the Eurasian relative of the American Tiranosaurus. The Museum in Ulan Baator tells more stories about Mongolian dinosaurs. 
8. Perhaps a negative point: Mongols have complex relationships with alcohol. Many people do not know how to drink, become very aggressive, attachment and unpleasant. As we have already spoken about, many do not know how to drink, from different ethnic groups, but we still do not advise you to approach the merry alone else's Mongolian company. But drinking with new friends will have to!
9. Hubsugul.
If you still search for sights in Mongolia, we advise you to visit Lake Houbsugul: it is easily accessible to it, there are around the lake, where to walk and what to do. And stunning views are guaranteed. Here you can accommodate in Yurt or the hotel, but it is much more interesting and romantic - in a tent on the shore of the lake. 
10. Weather.
It may seem that Mongolia is Middle Asia, a piece of which is a desert, and here the drought is all summer. However, in contrast, for example, from or, in Mongolia often go summer rains, sometimes pouring and days. So it is worth taking with yourself waterproof shoes and a raincoat. 
Also at night, the temperature is significantly reduced, so if you are going to sleep in a tent, sleeping bag is better to take warmer. Well, in general, in Mongolia, the sleeping bag is worth it, if only you will not stop in five-star hotels: in the average hotels (as well as in the becpecker hostels), the laundry is not particularly changed.
In general, 10 impressions can easily add 10 more! About the stoic Mongolian children who seem to never cry and about how much time the Mongolian fathers spend with them. About Yurts, Yakov, Suslikov, Mobyl and Camel Milk. About folk costumes and constantly soaring an eagles on the steppe. About the mine's mining mine and the Catholic mission in Erdenet, who is led by a priest from the Congo. All stories are still ahead!
For traveling in Mongolia, I almost did not prepare. Two weeks before the border crossing, I did not know what I will go there. Therefore, many things that should learn in advance and read more in place, passed by me. Perhaps I missed some attractions that were on my way. But in any case, I think my little experience will be useful for the next generations of travelers. General issues described in different kind guides (how to travel on airplanes, trains, cars, horses, etc.), I will not affect, see for this link in the "Information" section. I will tell only about what I saw and heard with my own eyes.
Technical information
In Mongolia, I was from June 19 to July 8, 2009. Together with the Polyachka, now working in Ulan-Ude, we drove into the country through a border crossing in Kyakhte (Republic of Buryatia), held two days in Ulan Bator, drove along the route Ulan - Battle - Arvaiher - Bayanhongor - Altai - Hovd - Ulaangom - Harhorin - Ulan Bator. Then I drove the Ulaan Batar on the route on the route - Wanda © Rhaan - Bayan-Wool and left to Russia through the borderline of Upper Ulhong ( Transbaikal region). Most of the path drove the hitchhiking, part - on the minibuses and buses.
Hereinafter, in the text, I use the original Mongolian names of geographic objects, with the exception of the Ulan Bator, which I will write in the traditional Russian transliteration (on Mongolian the name of the city is written as "Ulaanbaatar").
Travel Map
Pros and cons
Mongolia is known two things. The first is the nomadic population, which preserved the traditional lifestyle. It is said that for Mongols, life has not changed much since the times of Genghis Khan, and it looks like the truth: a significant part of the country still lives in yurts, breeds cattle, cares from places to sites in search of new pastures, eats meat and milk. Is it now so much in the UAZ and Japanese trucks, and the most wealthy next to yurts are satellite antennas and solar panels. And otherwise the same thing is to the national costumes that the Mongols are not worn on large holidays, but in everyday life.
The second plus is beautiful and untouched by man nature. This is not the dull steppe of the south of Russia or Ukraine, who has a boredom and longing. Mongolian steppe landscapes are always beautiful and diverse and very rarely mutilated by human buildings. The leaving the distance of the plain on the horizon is always framed by beautiful hills, somewhere the picturesque rocks or stones come across, somewhere the steppe goes into the stony or sandy desert, somewhere replaced by mountains covered with forest. And on these Mongolian expanses here and there are yurts and wander the fat herds of large and small cattle: cows, goats, sheep, horses, camels, yaks.
Cons Mongolia logically flow out of the advantages. Beautiful nature And the traditional lifestyle has been preserved due to the fact that the civilization has not yet reached here. Only Ulan Bator, whose photos I have already shown, can be called a civilized city, where everything you need for life. Most of the rest of the cities are the urban-type settlements. The regional center of Mongolia resembles the most recent Russian district center, Mongolian district centers and remind the villages. And between these cities, huge spaces extend, where the human presence is noticeable only on the lonely yurts yes, and rut in the steppe (see the section "Roads").
In general, after traveling in Mongolia, Russia begins to seem quite a civilized country in which there are many automotive and railways, roadside cafes, toilets, shops and supermarkets. When I went out of Mongolia to Russia, there was a clear feeling that I was returning from Asia to Europe - because the last 50 km before the border was the killed dirt road with the pit and puddles, on which 1-2 cars were passing a day, and after the border, a smooth asphalt began With good traffic. In a word, it's nice that we have ever overtaken about a hundred years ahead. The only thing about Mongolia was noticeably ahead of us - this is the development of animal husbandry. After you see the herd of several hundred animals, which, like a locust, occupied the green Mongolian pasture, not very happily look at three or four thin hungry cows, wandering around some Transbaikal village.
But, otherwise, as I said, our country is much civiful. With all my passion for travel, I still love comfort, smooth roads, fast cars, hot lunch at least once a day and hot shower at least once every two days, and in Russia after Mongolia returned with some relief. So read the descriptions of Mongolia and think about how you should - are you ready for such difficulties or better go to the hitchhiking trip to the countries of Benilyux.
Information
Guide Lonely Planet in Mongolia (English)
Report of travelers on the BPClub.ru forum
For acquaintance with a cultural and historical context, I recommend to read the wonderful book of the ISAE Kalashnikov "Cruel Age" (1st part and 2nd part) - the history of the life of Genghis Khan from birth to death, and also to see the great film Nikita Mikhalkov "Urga - the Territory of Love" about the relationship between Russian and Mongols in China.
Visas
In Russia, there is a Mongolian embassy in Moscow, as well as consulates in Ulan-Ude, Irkutsk, Kyzyl. It is usually impossible to make a visa on their own without an invitation, they immediately refer to travel agency. In Ulan-Ude, the registration of a visa in a travel agency costs 2300 rubles, including consular fees, and takes 10-12 days. In the comments, they say that in Moscow things are better - I do not know, check with the commentator. Previously, a visa was made in the Kyzyl Consulate without an invitation, but now, I think this is no longer.
Hit
There is already 10 border crossings between Russia and Mongolia. It is usually working from 9.00 to 17.00. For more information about the transition of the border in Kyakhte, I wrote, in Ulukhun -. Interestingly, only three transitions are international, that is, there may be a border of third countries. So if you are not a citizen of Mongolia or Russia, it will be possible to move the border only in Kyakhte (Buryatia) or Tashanta (Altai Republic), or move it by train to the mains (Buryatia). Note that the transition to Kyakhte is a car, it is impossible to cross it, so if you are going to stop, you will have to fit into some car on the border. Transition in Upper Ulukhun (Transbaikal Territory) - pedestrian, sit in a car or a bus no one forces.
From Ulan-Ude in Ulan-Batar, there are buses every day, in addition, the train Moscow - Ulan Bator takes place through the capital of Buryatia. How things are in other regions - I do not know.
Expensive
Before traveling to Mongolia, I thought that there were no roads in Russia. Now I realized that in our country there are still there, and even quite good. Because Mongol dear is such a tin that you will most likely see anywhere. Only from north to south, from Russia to China through Ulan-Batar leads a decent asphalt road, plus there are plots from Ulan-Bathan to West to Arvahheer (569 km, of which, of which, 50-60 km are not yet built) with a branch Harhorin and from Ulan Bator east to Wanda © Rhaan (331 km). Perhaps there are other sites, but I didn't go on them.
The remaining expensive, including the most important routes connecting the West and East of the country, are usually three or four rolling ruts in the steppes that converge-diverge and lead from one town to another. Between settlements There is no refueling, no cafes, no kilometer pillars, no road signs, no traffic cops, no cellular coverage - only naked plain, according to which everyone goes like him. However, the quality of the roads is that it will not be able to break the speeding regime at all desire, and the abundance of the killets reduces collisions to a minimum. The relief is usually such that you can even move from the rut and go along the steppe in any direction.
According to such roads, some manage to ride even on simple cars, but it is still better to use SUVs - Japanese jeeps or Russian UAZ. The latter, by the way, is preferable, because the Mongols are very common and, what happens that you will quickly find spare parts. Mongols travel on motorcycles, Korean minibuses, Japanese trucks, Russian Kamaz. Foreign tourists usually move on jeep and motorcycles. So, on the track we met colleagues four times: Poles on motorcycles, a group of French on jeeps, one Australian motorcyclist and a company of Koreans, who traveled to a minibus (most likely, also Korean).
If you are going on your transport, be sure to store the GPS-navigator - instead of the roads here are directions, so it's quite really get lost, going by chance by a track leading to some kind of distant village. The card is better to buy on Mongolian - then it will be easier to figure out the nomads where you are and where you go. If you travel hitchhiking, it is possible in principle to do without a navigator - drivers usually know the road and go from one city to another. The main thing is to find out where the driver goes exactly, and further entrust him to search the right path.
Hitch-hiking
Mongolia is the most difficult country for the car from all I was. However, the hitchhiker is interesting here and funny, and if you have time in stock, you can ride in this way. Just consider some features of the Mongolian highway.
The first and main problem is low traffic. Very good ride only on asphalt tracks (see the section "Roads"). The track is still quite revived from border guard in Tashanta to Ulan Bator (through Ulaang and Cezzarleg), although it is sometimes possible to wait for a few hours. On the rest of the roads, the cars are extremely rare - up to three or four cars per day. So be patient, and still books, magazines or crosswords - you can take something at least to take yourself until half a day sit at the track. In short, "in the backpack my fat and matches and Turgenev eight volumes" is just about Mongolia. We have some times so bored to sit at the road that we took backpacks and went on foot, so many Mongols have drivers and locals - the feeling that we are still going on their own country. The essence of the hitchhought to explain to them is difficult, so even better. Still keep in mind that between regional centers (if this road does not lead to Ulan-Batar) the traffic is completely low - for example, from Ulaangoma in Mu © Rhus © N is unlikely you can get directly, because the main flow of cars in Ulan-Batar is south , through Cezzarleg. And on the local roads, do not even stand and try to try, if you do not want to get stuck somewhere for a week.
The second problem is the choice of the desired gauge for the vote. The easiest way to travel out of a major city: usually a few kilometers before and after a major settlement there is one asphalt road, so it is enough to get out of the city and start voting from this road. A different thing is in the steppe or small towns and villages. Here the ruts can be diverted to the distance to a half-kilometer and it is quite difficult to choose from them. Sometimes you can navigate through the power lines - usually pillars are standing along the main rut, but this rule does not always work. It is best to find some exaltation, from where it opens the view of the surroundings, follow, which expensive the car will appear on, and in the case of which it is quick to move there. If you wore your hands, and the driver will see you, he will most likely stop or even turns and comes to you.
The third problem is the overcrowding of cars. During the trip, we only went twice in the car, where there was one driver. Usually, in addition to him, there are passengers in the car, which, as a rule, occupy all the places. Interestingly, cars stop, even if they are overflowing - to find out if something happened to you, but it is not always possible to sit in a stopping car. Sometimes you go to the car in the car in the back seat, putting on the knees of the Mongolian child, sometimes you lie on the luggage in the body of a truck, covering dust and sand, sometimes you sit on a sleeping bag in the cockpit, slightly blowing a bunch of things and distant relatives of the driver, whom He took with him. In short, do not wait comfort.
And the fourth problem is the money-freeness of the local population. In principle, everything is expected to be money for trivia, but most persuades for free. "No money" Mongolian "Mungo Bayhgo" - and before landing in the car, always one or twice, say these words. Only four times the drivers, having heard such a phrase, were disappointed further - and all these times happened on a busy site of the route, where we quickly caught the next car. In the rest of the places, drivers understand that you will wait for the next car for another half a day, and after heavy thoughting, they still nod - they say, climbs. However, truckers and wealthy Ulan-Batorians on jeeps do it without long thought. But still it's a bit hard - especially after Russia, where there are practically no one about money about money, and I don't even warn that I'm for free.
In short, I recommend, if you allow funds, ride in Mongolia on your motor transport. If the funds do not allow, but allows time, use a bike - it will be slightly slower, and if you are an experienced cycleriker, it may even faster than the hitchhiking. So, for example, a plot from Bayanhongor to Altai long in 390 km we traveled in three days. A plot from the city of Bayan-Wool to the border crossing of Upper Ulhun a length of 49 km I drove all day - here I could walk on foot during the same time.
But still the hitchhiker helps to get acquainted with the local life, chat with Mongols, many of whom know Russian. So if the listed difficulties do not confuse you, collect a backpack - and forward.
Flight transport
Only in Ulan-Bator has some kind of car station, with which buses on a certain schedule and tariffs go to different regional centers. In the other cities, the buses either do not go at all, or go like God for the soul. Travel guides recommend looking for minibuses in the city market. There you can also find drivers who go to other cities, and are looking for travelers to compensate for expenses. Lonely Planet for some reason exactly calls the "hitchhiker" - that is, it recommends to go to the market and find such a car. I do not know, in my opinion, the traditional motorway is still more effective.
In prices for buses to navigate quite difficult. For example, from Ulan Bator to the Moon (130 km) we drove for 6 thousand tugres, but from Ulan Bator to Darkhan (220 km), my fellow traveler went for the same money. Although, maybe the fact is that Darkhan go along the asphalt road, and part of the path to the moon - already described in the steppe.
Overnight
Even who travels in Mongolia must certainly spend the night from nomads. It's easy enough to do it - it's enough to approach the yurt in the steppe and politely ascend. During our only one in the yurt, we did generally very delicately: they asked if it was possible to put a tent next to the yurt, but then, while we were sitting and rested after a hot day, we were invited to the yurt itself. In general, if it was in the steppe and there will be a yurt - boldly suggest a visit. It is better to take in advance candies and chocolates - distribute children, put something on the table to tea and everyone will be happy. If you're lucky, get to abundant dinner, but we just drank tea and goat milk.
Another good option overnight is roadside cafes. Almost every one there is one or more large beds with a width of 4-5 meters, where anyone who orders dinner or breakfast in this eating can be spent free of charge. Usually dinner per person costs 2-3 thousand tugres. True, on the same bed a few more people will sleep, but free travelers in the presence of their own sleeping bag, I think it will not embarrass.
IN major cities There are hotels. We stayed in those two times - in the city of Arvyahher, the room for two cost 11 thousand tugres, in Altai - 15 thousand tugres. In the first hotel there was no soul, in the second - hot water. But if that, in cities you can find public baths where you can take a shower for 1-2 thousand tugres.
In particularly promoted among tourists, there are Guesthouses and hostels, including seeing legal campgrounds (several Yurt, in which you can spend the night). However, those who spent the night in the real yurt, it will not be particularly interesting: inside there are no attributes of nomadic life, only a few beds and bedside tables. In Harhorina, such a guesthouse cost 5 thousand tugres with a person.
Well, a huge selection of overnight stay in Ulan Bator. Firstly, this is the only city where more or less active members of Hospitalityclub and Couchsurfing are living, so that no challenges can find free overnight. Secondly, there are hotels, hostels, geeshaus for every taste and pocket. By the way, in Guesthouse Golden Gobi there is a discount of Russian and Poles: the chief administrator was so straight and said, so for the night they paid not six, but five dollars per person. Keep in mind.
Food
Vegetterians in Mongolia do nothing. All vegetables and fruits will be taken from China, and the Mongols themselves make and eat almost all of meat or milk. Only in Ulan Bator can find vegetable salads, in other places such a luxury is rare. I have always been a meat and antiveganom, but then I even started experiencing nostalgia by vinegret or tomato-cucumber salad. So be prepared if you don't carry meat at all, buy the necessary products in Ulan Bator and carry them with you.
The most popular dish in Mongolia - Buouza, known those who have been in the Irkutsk region or Buryatia, under the name "posture". This small meat, wrapped in the dough and cooked for a pair. Very tasty and nutritious thing - so that I will have enough 4-5 pieces. It is usually worth 300 tuggers apiece. Another popular food - Hushur, resembling our native Cheburek and standing 300-400 Tuggers apiece. Plus, the noodles with pieces of meat and potatoes - either in a dry form, or as a soup. Unfortunately, I did not remember how it is called, costs about 2-2.5 thousand tugres. Actually, these three dishes we are traveling mainly and fed.
There are a lot of interesting dairy dishes, but they, as a rule, are not sold in cavets - we were treated either in yurts, or in the machines. There is a cool cheese, to taste reminiscent of cottage cheese, very tasty creamy oil and a low-alcoholic drink based on milk, resembling koumiss.
The main soft drink is tea with milk. In Ulan-Bator, I did not like it, but then, for the absence of choice, I had to love him. It is usually served without sugar, but slightly salted - however, I didn't feel this salt. In the capital there also add some oil, but there is no such in the province. In general, a very nutritious thing. It costs 100-200 tugresses for a cup, and sometimes it is served at all for free.
As in all other aspects, Ulan Bator and the rest of Mongolia are two big differences. In the capital, the choice of food is great and diverse. There is both cheap tables with mentioned above dishes and prices, and pathoral restaurants with Italian, Japanese and other kitchens for every taste and pocket. We once wandered even in a vegeteric cafe. A cheap dining room can usually be identified by the word "Gazar" on the sign.
As for the products, there is also a big difference between the capital and the province. In Ulan Bator, many shops and supermarkets with good choice Products, in other cities - mostly small benches, the choice in which is less than in any Russian rural store. The usual set is soda, vodka, chocolate-cookies and, if lucky, a huge piece of meat in the refrigerator. Even bread falls rarely. The store can be identified by the word "Delhur" on the sign.
Cafes and large shops are found only in cities, so, given the quality of roads and low traffic, it is better to always have a stock of water and eating at least one day.
Language
In Mongolia, a lot of people speak Russian. Once we even brought a graduate of Philfak MSU. Of the drivers encountered, most of them knew at least a few words and phrases in Russian, and approximately with each third one could even be fully understood.
But still specifically rely on the fact that you will get out of Russian-speaking Mongols, it is not worth it. Try all the same Mongolian to learn a little, it will greatly facilitate your life in the journey and will help much better know local life. Unfortunately, I knew only a few more important phrases for the traveler, and the rest complemented by Russian words and gestures. But if I could still say gestures "Is it possible to put a tent" or "Stop here, please", then ask more complex and interesting questions ("How do children nomads go to school?", "What do you try the stove?" And etc.) no longer succeeded.
Mongolian Language Phone
The missing phrases to it (double vowel read as one, but elongated):
Can you go with you? - Hamt Новжа и у уу?
Where are you going? - That hasha Навж bin vi?
We travel in Mongolia - Bid Nar Mongolore Ayalazh Baygaa
The people knows English much worse than Russian - mostly formed young people, metropolitan beggars and workers of the tourist sphere.
Money
1 dollar \u003d 1428 Tugry
1 ruble \u003d 46 Tugry
Change money better immediately in Ulan-Bator for all the journey. In the rest of Mongolia, banks are found in an amount not exceeding the limits of a statistical error.
Like Belarusian rubles, Mongolian tugresses exist exclusively in paper, so the feeling occurs during the journey that you have a lot of money.
Internet and communications
There are several cellular operators from which we recommended Mobicom. On the road cellularNaturally, it does not work, but in almost all major and small settlements there is a coating.
1-2 Internet cafes are found in most regional centers and in abundance are common in Ulan Bator.
Danger and trouble
Most of all I was frightened by dogs of nomads - they say if you fit into, then approach the yurt early, and they will not attack her dogs. Even recommended to learn the phrase "Noah Horio", which means "hold dogs". Therefore, I expected every nomad to see the evil wolfges, which are a little bit to tear you into pieces. In fact, near Yurts, we saw the meal and encouraged pieces that are not able to scare even steppe gloom. Mongols of dogs do not like themselves and often award them with a kick, passing by. Therefore, all these friends frightened when we tried to stroke them.
Other dangerous animals already from the world wildlife. Travel guides lists steppe wolves and bears living in the desert of scorpions and snakes, ticks living in the grass. Nothing from this came across. The largest wild animals we have seen - lizards size less palm, constantly running under their feet in the Gobi desert, and steppe rodents - or hamsters, whether Surki.
I personally did not come across the crime, but my fellow traveler, which walked in the last day alone on Ulan-Batar, pulled the camera. However, it can happen in any city of the world. And so the Mongols are friendly and non-aggressive, the gopniks are almost never found here. I felt in complete safety throughout the journey at any point of Mongolia - in contrast, by the way, from Russia, where in small district centers is not always pleased to be located.
Climate
Weather in Mongolia changed, with sharp fluctuations in temperatures. In winter, it is very cold (Ulan Bator is considered the very cold capital of the world), in the summer it is usually hot. The summer heat soften the winds, walking along the Mongolian plain, but they also create a different difficulty. A couple of times the blowing so hard that the tent was simply impossible to install - and on the plain it is often impossible to find any shelter from the wind. I can not imagine how terribly here should be in the winter with such a wind.
Route Ulan Bator - ARVYUKHEER 
ARVYAHEER 
Highway Arwehheer - Bayanhongor 
Bayanhongor 
Bayanhongor's track - Altai. Group of Poles traveling on motorcycles 
Bu © MBA © GE © R 
Northern Gobi Desert 
Whether the holiday, whether the lesson of physical education at the local school 
Buaugagan. 
Altai 
Altai Track - Hovd 
Australian Jeff, who lives in Ulan-Bator for three years. Driving by bus to the parents of his bride into one Mongolian village 
Hovd. 
National character
Mongols, as I already wrote, the people are very friendly and friendly. Foreigners will always help and prompt, where, like what. The prices for them to overestimate have not yet learned - at least those who work not in the tourist sphere. Russians for the Mongols are generally almost native, many of the older generation recall their studies or work in the Soviet Union. True, such an open and welcoming reception, as in the Caucasus or the Middle East, do not wait - any Russian-speaking Mongol will gladly talk to you, but it is unlikely to call a visit. In general, friendly, but quite even attitude.
Like many other Asian peoples, Mongols are pretty preoccupied, relaxed and leopard. The situation is completely normal when the seller or the administrator in the hotel departed to an hour or another from the workplace and it is necessary to wait for it or look somewhere nearby. They are not particularly hurry, especially since in Mongolia anyway, nothing will happen. Agneshka said that she had several Mongolian students in Ulan Bator, who were constantly late for classes for half an hour and sincerely surprised when they were reproaches them. And indeed, in Mongolia in the steppe, the car can easily arise, it will be necessary to wait half a day the passing car, then refine and eventually come to the destination in the day later. What are the half an hour of late. In a word, "there are nowhere to rush, they have eternity ahead."
At the same time, the Mongols have a very developed mutual assistance. If you broke the car, the first passing car stops and his driver offers help. Often he can stay with you for a few hours, helping to start an old UAZ or replace the springs from the truck. However, they say in remote regions of Russia, such as Yakutia, Kamchatka or Chukotka, everything is the same.
From the whole Mongolian people, Mongolian children produce a particularly pleasant impression. They are very lively and immediate, and the most colorful objects for photography are even more than old men or all-tree riders on the horses. They are clearly not tormented by some punishments and prohibitions, but they do not indulge in anything - yes, there is nothing particularly walked. Instead of plastic toys, they have a whole flock of goats or sheep, instead of a bike or rollers - horses, in which many ride, it seems, from six or seven years old, and instead of dirty streets and convinces - green plains. There are no urban temptations and entertainment here, so they are sincerely glad to any chocolate chip, which will bring a foreigner from the city. My fellow traveler liked the Mongolian children so much that she even wanted to have one such. True, it is afraid that her boyfriend from Kiev will not understand this - all the same few men such tolerant as the hero of the film "Styles".
Lifestyle
Ulan Bator is the only real city in Mongolia. In terms of the level of availability and development of infrastructure, he resembles a large Russian regional center. There are supermarkets, cinemas, restaurants, internet cafes, public transport - All you need for life. The rest of the country is a big nomadic camp. Even in regional centers, a significant part of the population lives in a nomadic - in the center there may be several Soviet buildings in two to three floors, and it surrounds all the private sector with wooden houses and yurts. But, of course, the real Mongolia begins outside the cities.
In the steppe yurts come across every few kilometers, in the desert - every 10-20 kilometers. Sometimes the yurt stands separately, sometimes several such dwellings form a kind of mini-sealer. I expected that the interior of the yurt would be quite ascetic, almost like in a hiking tent, but in fact they are usually always well furnished and remindes the insides of the Russian hut or even a modest urban apartment. There are several beds, a wardrobe, a table, a chest of drawers, on which there are photos of distant relatives, TV (sometimes even with a DVD player). In the center there is a stove-bourgear, the long tube of which is directed into a round hole in the middle of the roof.
The only occupation of people living here is animal husbandry. Next to the yurt is driven to the land of Konovyaz, to which several horses are tied, goats or sheep are crowded (and more often without it), the grass and cow are erupted alongside, and the desert roam and chew rigid camel shrubs. These animals are at the same time all agriculture, food and textile industry, and often transport.
Mongols are practically engaged in agriculture. You can drive the whole country and not to see a single field. Only in the vicinity of the city of Ulang we saw a kind of vegetable gardens Yes, the Russian border was brought to us, who said that she was going on some farm. In the rest of the places, the Mongols do not grow anything and all their huge plains are used exclusively under the pastures. They say that they still consider sinful to dig and do something from the ground.
National costumes are large robes of dense tissue, usually gray. I never put it on it, but judging by appearanceSuch a robe protects well from the permeating Mongolian wind. And also, I apologize for intimate details, such a robe helps Mongols to ignite need in the steppe: here it is usually impossible to find any shelter, so you can move a little from other people, get up or sit back with your back, closing a bathrobe, and make your business, no one when This is not shocking.
Religion
As in any other communist country, in the 90s, a religious revival began in Mongolia. Began to restore the old and build new monasteries, create religious educational institutions. Buddhist monastery or temple became the same indispensable attribute of the Mongolian city as the Orthodox Temple - Russian. In the monasteries you can see young monks, and if you're lucky, getting to the religious service, when they sit at the table and read the mantras or in Tibetan, or on Sanskrit - fascinating spectacle.
However, special religiosity at Mongol-laity is not noticeable. Only in one yurt I saw something like a small altar, and in cars I never met any religious attributes. So, if you do not travel to cities and not to look for Buddhist temples there, in general, you will not define any of the religion the Mongols adhere to. True, as in neighboring Buryatia, the relics of shamanism have been preserved here: along the roads are "obo" - piles of stones and pillars with blue rags attached to them. But in contrast to the same Buryatia, drivers next to them stop and do not show any respect.
Entertainment
Of all the Mongolian culture, the traveler can best meet music. Mongols love to sing very very much, and on the road can often be observed such a picture - the driver begins to sing a melodic and sad song, and his partner sings to him as far as possible. Or the old woman drags the song, and the entire bus is picked up together. If no one sings, the driver puts the cassette (by the way, almost never seen in CD-magnetic machines - only cassettniki) with Mongolian folk or modern popular songs and listens to her, looking at the road leaving for the horizon. Quite often, the Mongols, including those who do not know a word in Russian, listen to Russian music. Several times we heard that Valery, then Dima Bilan, then the song "Million Scarlet Roses" performed by the Mongolian singer, singing in Russian with a funny accent.
Except to sing, people still love to drink. Moreover, at first glance, it seems that even more than in Russia. For the month of traveling in Eastern Siberia, I was offered to drink vodka once, and in two weeks in Mongolia - five times. However, it is explained by the fact that in Mongolia, except for the driver, there are always many passengers in the car, and just they so that it should be more fun, drink half a letter, and the driver is limited to tea with milk. In Russia, drivers, mostly go alone - there will not be much eating here.
Lyrical conclusion
What I did not understand after the trip - why the eight hundred years ago, Mongols needed to leave their cozy nobra and native steppes and to conquer polim. After all, they were not going to breed the cattle and put yurts on the conquered lands, so unlike Mongolia - all these Chinese rice fields, the ancient cities of Central Asia, the peaks of the Caucasus, the Iranian deserts and Russian forests. And it is impossible to learn in these peaceful and friendly people of those evil and cruel conquerors who passed with fire and a sword as well as the Adriatic coast. Maybe the whole thing in a strong person who can collect and lead people behind themselves - I do not know.
But Mongolia makes it possible to understand another thing: that our whole civilization, all that humanity has come up with the last few thousand years - this is, in essence, pleasant, but not so necessary excesses. In this country, people almost do not use them, and those that use it seems to be not so needed. Tens of thousands of Mongols cost without sewage, gas and microwave ovens, washing machine, computer, telephone, car and completely not concerned. And the omnipotent force of electricity uses, it seems, only for watching TV. Do not be it - just asked by the travelers, which is new happening in the world. And having learned about our entire progress, the Internet, flights to space, nuclear energy, nanotechnology and laser surgery, they would have nodded disapprovingly - why do something invent something, if for a good life only yurt, fifty goats, dozen horses and endless green plain .
Route Hovd - Ulaang 
Group of French and Swiss on jeep 
The country of amazing steppe spaces, where many kilometers around can not meet any living soul, and national traditions, which are also strong, as the spirit of the Mongola warrior, is gradually gaining momentum on the tourist market as an exotic direction. During the trip, the bright and tireless sun, snow-covered mountain chains and bunds of colored flags, and Buddhist stups, are certainly becoming a bright and tireless sun.
Important points
- To travel to Mongolia, the Russian tourist visa will not need.
- Rent a car in the edges where Genghis Khan was born, experienced travelers are not recommended. The quality of the roads and the state of the proposed machines leave much to be desired. In addition, in Mongolian steppes you can easily get lost.
- You will need a passport for the purchase of trains or buses.
- The difference in prices for local airlines tickets for Mongols and foreigners is very substantial.
Choose wings
Direct air communication with Mongolia is carried out from several cities behind the Urals:
- Aeroflot has a flight schedule on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Direct flight on Russian wings will take a little more than 6 hours, and the ticket will cost about $ 680.
- Mongolian airlines also take on board passengers several times a week. Their prices begin from $ 800.
- Much cheaper will cost a flight - on Turkish Airlines aircraft through. The issue price is from $ 550, on the way will have to spend 13 hours excluding docking.
- The Chinese fly to Ulan-Batar from Sheremetyevo through. Benefit price by flight Air. China starts from $ 650.
Travel to Mongolia can be taken on the train. Composition Moskva - Ulan Bator twice a week leaves from Perron Yaroslavl Station of the Russian Capital and arrives in Mongolian through four with a small day. Ticket price - from $ 90.
Hotel or apartment
The bulk of Mongolia hotels went to the republic to inheritance from the times of socialist realities. The "Treşki" number is mostly the old hotels of the Soviet Sample, but the "five" are already distinguished by the current level of service and comfort. The last item is reflected in the pricing policy, and the hotel room in the capital with five stars on the facade will cost an average of $ 150 per night.
If you search, modern hotels 3 * in Ulan Bator are also available, but the price per day and in this hotel can shock inexperienced tourist. The room for two will cost $ 60 -100. True, for this money guests receive wireless Internet, a fitness center, a free airport transfer and a shower accessories. In a word, the new "treshki" in Ulan-Bator is quite worthy of more stars than they assigned.
However, standard accommodation options during Mongolia travel are available only in the capital and some major cities. The Mongolian yurt is becoming the only tourist home of the tourist. Yurt campgrounds are adapted for tourist needs and are equipped with quite civilized amenities. The cost of the night in the yurt begins from $ 30 for the most uncomplicated comfort.
Private apartments in the capital of Mongols also lease and this accommodation option is quite worthy of consideration. The apartment with three bedrooms in which a minimum of six people will accommodate without interference, with a kitchen, a bathroom and an Internet on specialized sites, it is easy to fit for $ 40 per day. Prices for a separate room in the apartment with the owner oscillate around $ 15 per night.
Transport subtleties
In Mongolia, a network of domestic railways, air markets and bus directions is well developed. All roads in the country are invariably lead to Ulan Bator, and therefore most transplants occur there.
Buses connect all cities and large settlements Mongolia. The trains adopted a division into the familiar to the Russian resident of the reserved seats and coupe, and the most cheap are seated places. The price of a ticket to the coupe from Ulan-Bator to the border city of Zamun-Uud, for example, will be about $ 20. Cities share 750 km.
Internal transportation of passengers take over buses and route taxis. The fare is minimal, and the means of movement are absolutely identical to Russian.
Solovya bass do not feed
If short, food in Mongolia is satisfying, portions are large, and the prices are very cute. For example, dinner for two of the three dishes in a mid-level restaurant will cost $ 25, for the standard kit "Hamburger Plus Potato and Drink" in McDonalds will have to pay $ 7, and for only $ 4 will succeed in the roadside café.
Prices for the most popular dishes in low-cost Cutlery Mongolia look like this: salad - $ 1, meat is a hot dish - $ 2.5, soup - $ 2, tea - $ 0.5.
Useful details
- Sunny days in Mongolia happens to 260 per year and the luminaries in these latitudes are unusually active. Do not forget to put the sunscreen with a high factor in a suitcase.
- Rent an SUV with a local driver for traveling in the steppes and other off-road is the optimal version of independent movements in Mongolia. Journey to such a scenario will cost $ 70 -80 per day.
- A liter of gasoline costs about a dollar.
Best Journey to Mongolia
Cropped continental Mongol climate is real winter and summer with appropriate temperatures. In July, residents of Ulan-Battora often observe on thermometers + 35 ° C and higher, and in the midst of winter to similar marks, mercury columns are lowered. The most comfortable conditions for walking in the capital the weather offers spring and early autumn.
In the desert Gobi, even despite the strong day heat, at night it can be very cold, and therefore the optimal time for traveling in this region of Mongolia is the first half of the autumn.
One of the most striking cultural events of Mongolia is Naadam Festival, passing in mid-July. It takes part in it all the male population of the country. Nail of the program - Competitions in typical Mongolian skills: archery, horse racing and struggle. The winners of the national triathlon receive a special stripe on the cap and enjoy respect among the neighbors and colleagues.
At this page I will try to touch on the problems that a person going to Mongolia may encounter (http://tomgem-planeta.ru/?page_id\u003d155).
Tomgem Plus Video. Western Mongolia. Khashaki Duck 2561m Pass
VISA. We received a visa at the Consulate of Mongolia in Yekaterinburg. And this occupation is not simple, get a visa to Germany easier. Theoretically, this process takes two to three days, but really the person who does it, there are no weeks in place. To obtain a visa, you need an invitation from the Mongolian side. We received an invitation here www.legendtour.ru/rus. It costs 800 rubles per person.
Tomgem Plus Video. Western Mongolia. Mount Cast-UL 4208 m
Customs. Customs we passed in Altai, in Tashanta. Mongolian customs works from nine in the morning to five hours of the day, except Saturday, Sunday, festive (Mongolian holiday) days, as well as several festive days. Lunch with an hour to two, which, according to Mongolian arithmetic, is one and a half - two hours.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Sands near the village. Bogd.
International driver's licenses are needed to enter their car. They were not useful for us. In general, the time of passage depends on the case. At the entrance to Mongolia, the Russians were issued us for ten minutes, and the Mongols were tormented by an hour, not counting two-hour lunch. On the way back, Mongols were issued for fifteen minutes, and on the Russian side we stood about three hours - there was a big turn, the procedure itself took fifteen minutes.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Lone Saksaul.
Relationships with local. We asked such a question trucker at customs. He told us in detail about the fuel, about the roads and bodies. And after the question about the attitude of the Mongols to tourists hung ... as it turned out, it was from what. Most of the local belongs to the tourists of the type "Impress here", that is, at best, in any way. Therefore, if that, do not hope that the locals will pull you out of the sands and out of the swamps. In Russian and in English, Mongols, for a very rare exception, do not say, except at refueling. However, if the Mongols in their Mongolia lost and asked the road, then recall Russian, and English, and even the language of gestures.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Weathered cave in granites.
As tourists, we began to perceive us in Bayanhongor, and east. But the crime is just skin felt, especially in northwestern cities. Arch, local vodka, drink everything and a lot, drunk driving - this is the norm.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Stone partridge.
Roads. About the roads of Mongolia is written a lot, but it is simply impossible to describe them completely. Imagine that a piece of the Moscow-Peter track, a couple of kilometers, repaired. And there is a detour by primer, with all uhabami, dust and other charms. This is the best sections of the Federal Mongolian Road. But the worst is the "washing board" of its maximum manifestation - for 130 km in front of the city of Altai. Ripple on the road is giant. With the length of the half-wave of centimeters 40, its amplitude reaches 20 centimeters. Machines just raw. If you reduce the tire pressure as much as possible, it will help.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Sands of the Datsyn Thaw.
New roads in Mongolia are made, but ... all at once. And often you can see a picture - on a hundredokilometer plot, a well-damp road is engaged in aligning one single grader, sometimes one skating rink helps him. So it's not a quick thing. Nevertheless, individual sections of asphalt, kilometers of 20 - 60 already exist.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Jaran.
And further. If you order a tour with a rented car - do not agree to UAZ. Not only most likely you do not have you at him. With a forty-breeding heat, you will breathe not by air, but dust, while regularly deform the top of the car with his head. http://tomgem-planeta.ru/?page_id\u003d155
FUEL. I will talk about the diesel. He is practically in all settlements. We fled on the red refueling Petrovic. The cost of fuel is 45-55 rubles. Along the federal tracks the quality of fuel is high, it's better better than in Altai along the Chui tract. And on the distance from the federal highways diesel is very bad, in the sands the car boils on it. So in the desert it is better fuel to the tank to fill out of the seashed canisters.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Tract Dotsyn-Tsav.
Hotels. This is a very big problem. If it is an expensive hotel, from 1200 rubles, then, as the Mongols themselves say, they are "not for sleep." The girls scream all night. If this is a cheap hotel, you will listen to the disassembly of drunken mongols until morning. We were lucky with housing only twice - Hotel Seoul for $ 40 in Bayanhongor and Khan Uul for $ 100 in Dountzadgad. These are real business rooms, any better than business in the Moscow Izmailovo.
Products. No problem. In major cities, full stores with any products, and the price is twice the lower.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Dune Hongoryan Els.
PUBLIC CATERING. There are problems. The restaurants will most likely offer a low-pass local food. It is easier to eat in the cafes in the markets. Here you can eat buds - such Mantophelmy, Chebureks, rice with meat. It is tasty, and we had enough 150 rubles on three. There are better between cities in yurts. First, it is not delicious, secondly expensive. And it takes it an hour and a half, because it is most likely to cook from scratch.
Tomgem Plus Video. Mongolia. South Gobi. Dune Hongoryan Els.
CURRENCY. Along the southern federal road, only Tugry takes, and in banks only dollars take to exchange. In North-Western Mongolia, it is possible to calculate both tugres, and dollars and rubles.
NAVIGATION. For locality orientation, a map and navigator were used. Map overview card Mongolia scale 1: 500,000 with schematic roads, settlements and mountains. This turned out to be enough. There were maps of provinces with a bunch of roads and a bunch of villages, but really it was not a village, but migratory casing, and Mongolian calarys are generally a mirage. That is, the provincial maps are absolutely useless. Without what in Mongolia can not do - this is without a navigator. We had a Garmin Montana-600 with staged by Genstabov cards 1: 500000. On the roads he did not led, but showed the direction. And on the ground roads enough to follow these directions. In general, I did not scarily, and even the misfortunes of Mongols poked your finger where to go. And further. Mongols rarely imagine that it is further 50 km from their overhead, village, cities. So it is better to hope for your strength.
Continued here.
Good day. I live in Khakassia, to the border with Mongolia 600 km, to the nearest city of 720. Therefore, we are on may holidays They rushed literally for a week. We got no problem. The bandwidth of Handagite - Megacraft, everything is culturally and polite. Riding gathered to the city of Ulang - 28 thousand people.
Hotel 1500 day - Room on Troy! Food is inexpensive, there are many unfamiliar dishes. A lot of sea buckthorn juice, also a novelty, we have no. The meat is all rigid, but cheap, it is better to buy buds in Tsayny, by the way, you quickly get used to Tsay, especially in the cafes where it is done normal. Were on Lake Jarghe Nuur, and at UBR-Nuur, huge lakes, on the shores of Safari - a bunch of non-epoigaled game, a lot of yaks, geese, herp, etc. There was a Russian guide, well, it is better to know the foundations of English language And to have a Russian Mongolian phrasebook. Walked around the city at night, very safely, everyone greets, invite you to visit, a bunch of smiles. In general, very positively rolled, if there are questions I will answer with pleasure.
Sometime in the Ulangome there was a small military unit of the Soviet group of troops. The part was small, since the direction was not "tanning". I will say that in that area the service of officers was like in the resort: hunting, fishing. The management of the army is far away - so far you can hover several times. And resting there is really one pleasure. Of course, for the 20th years, when Soviet experts left the MNR, many have subsided. But at one time, even in such small settlements in Russian talked to 50% of the population. Even if you do not have a guide, you can always find local residentwho will gladly tell and show reserved places. Well, in the Ulanna, the representative office of the Republic of Tyva was opened. Therefore, even if there are problems, then you can decide everything through them. For lovers of relaxing in nature - a wonderful place. : hlopaet:
In 2007, we also went from Khakassia to Mongolia. Although the relationship (at the state level) was none, but the Mongols greatly remember the kindness and assistance of the USSR for the formation of their state. We drove out and the Ulang, were also on the lakes. Spruce Guses, Herkel, Yakov and Conin. By the way, most of the inhabitants (middle age) are communicated to Russian, but they understand at all, 100 percent. Recommended their attitude to the USSR, and to us (formerly countertilizer) - warm, welcoming, almost native. They did not speak about Russia at all, but called our country in the old age - the Soviet Union.
No poverty, or especially poverty, we have not seen. This is a normal lifestyle of the Mongolian people. If the family is settled, then they live in the house, an apartment as ordinary rural people in any country. If the family cares, has its livestock, pasteure, then the lifestyle, respectively, nomadic. Hence, national accommodation, clothing, food ... Therefore, you should not be afraid to go to Mongolia on Safari. Just need to decide for what purpose, and where can I go to Mongolia, in the steppe, or in the city-village?
