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I am often asked how to communicate with the Chinese (shopping, ordering food in a restaurant, recognize the road, etc.) without the knowledge of Chinese. Not everyone speaks in English, and who says - often with a monstrous accent. How to be? I addressed this question my mother, which was many times in. I give the floor to her.

Chinese is so complicated that few people will study it if short-term. Moreover, you can do without the knowledge of Chinese diplomas. When I come to, Shanghai and some others chinese cities, I lead an active lifestyle, although I do not speak and do not read in Chinese. I walk through the streets and parks, attend temples and museums, buy products and things in stores and street merchants. It is necessary to bargain (without this it is impossible), a strongly knocking price. It is worth mentioning I. public transportWho can take advantage of any foreigner who does not understand a single Chinese word.

I want to immediately say that I did not have to be in the Chinese outback. But more or less major cities And at the Chinese resorts, I sometimes forget that I am in a foreign language environment. How do I manage it? Very simple. It is only necessary to have an idea of, to take into account their traditions, know several oral phrases and distinguish at least a dozen. I almost forgot, be sure to lie in the bag a bilingual map of the city (in Chinese and English), and in the pocket compass (it is easier to navigate) and a notebook with a handle ( or Navigator B. mobile phonebut I had situations when he did not work; Therefore, the city's printed map I always wear with me - MA). For those who for some reason do not mastered the sticks, it is worth having a knife and fork (convenient plastic).

Modern Chinese are always ready to help a foreigner. They will try to find a version of communication with you. The younger than the Chinese, the easier it is to contact him. It is more difficult with the elderly people or with those who recently arrived from the village.

We master the Chinese diploma

If you want to position any Chinese (starting with passport control at the airport), then smile and politely tell me neither halo 你你, which means "Hello". In taxi, shops, in the markets and in other places, repeat as a spell of this magic phrase. Immediately the contact between you and the Chinese is installed. I am also good to remember the words "Thank you" seed 谢谢 and "Goodbye" tzai Jian. 再见.

Another phrase will save you life. It sounds questioning: La de Ma? 辣 的 吗, what does it mean "is acute?". Chinese cook or waiter will understand your fright and put in food less pepper. Or will offer another dish.

If you need to urgently show that you do not want something, or you need to suspend some action, then say "no!" or Russian "no!". These words, plus your intonation and the corresponding gesture will become for any Chinese signal, which is necessary, at least, clarify the situation.

There are several hieroglyphs that are desirable to remember to such an extent to recognize them on products, signs and in the menu. This is: "Beef" (牛肉 nyuzhou), "Pork" (猪肉 zhuhore), "Chicken" (鸡 ji.), "Horse" (马 ma.), "Fish" (鱼 yu.), "Milk" (牛奶 nyunay), "Vegetables" (青菜 qinsen), "Salt" (盐 yan., pronounced as row), "Red" (红 hun.; For black tea, which in China is called red), "Green" (绿 lui.), "Tea" (茶 cha), "Water" (水 shui). It is useful to know the hieroglyphs "Login" (入口 zhokou), "Exit" (出口 chuuu) and "Stop" (站 zhang).

To fill various questionnaires and blanks (starting from the aircraft), you need to remember how in English "Beijing" is written - "Beijing" (or the city where you are flying). Pronounced name as Bajin. " northern capital" Chinese Writing Beijing - 北京.

In public transport

As soon as some problems arise, I appeal to any passer. If his knowledge of English does not allow us to find a common language, then I get out the metro scheme and show the station to which I want to get. I either indicate the right direction, or accompany to the place where it will be easier for me to get. In addition, the station always has metro employees who will help to find the road.

It happens that the elderly shrugs shrug. They would be happy to help, but they are afraid to do something not as needed. The upbringing of past years is affected: infancy to strangers. Modern youth is completely different. It is worth stopping me, studying the card, as someone immediately approaches and will ask in English, doesn't you need help?

For convenience, it is better to immediately buy a card (metro + bus) and always have a stock on it. If there is no desire to understand the work of modern automata, through which the account is replenished, then you can approach the metro employees, show them with hand on the machine, card and cash bill. They fit and with you a card and money in the desired gap and press some buttons. If employees are busy, you can contact any Chinese.

I rarely use buses, although they are modern and very comfortable. I'm more accustomed to the subway. A single card (on the metro and buses) relieves me from finding the place of buying tickets. With questions (what is the bus, where is the stop, when to go out?) I appeal to passengers. There is always someone who knows English. You can also show the desired location on the map.

It is advisable to have a piece of paper with an apartment or a hotel, which is written by hieroglyphs. It, as well as a specific place on the map or business card of the seller, you can show the taxi driver.

There are also velaikshi. They are usually taken to drive for short distances. Negotiable price, from 5 to 10 yuan. Decide with the price will help ten fingers on their hands.

In stores and markets

There are many stores in China. Diverse. There are huge international network supermarkets: "Carfour" ( Carrefour, 家乐福 jialefu), "Volmart" ( Walmart 沃尔玛 waurma), "Auchan" ( Auchan 欧尚 oushan) And small (in the "Step" and "hemisphan" accessibility). Product prices in small stores are often lower than in networks. The cost is not per kilogram, but for 500 grams (斤 jin.). Food stores are not traded in food stores. There are no problems with ignorance, if you restrict ourselves to buying familiar products. Pictures on packages help determine what lies in opaque packaging. Savings and accompanying inscription in English. It is useful to get acquainted with some hieroglyphs ("beef", "milk" and others).

Savior English is yogurt

Do not reject the assistance of the seller, even if it seems to you unnecessary. A couple of years ago we chose a comfortable and lightweight backpack. Such to breathe a back, the shoulders did not get tired, there was durable zipper, a lot of pockets and a laptop place. The seller stood for a while, watching us. Then she moved to another shelving and brought exactly the backpack that answered our requests.

Selers were literally "selected" from me a bottle with olive oil, egg packing and other goods, bringing more fresh, delicious or cheap analogs instead. In the same way, we were able to try the wonderful Chinese dry red wine, which the seller offered us instead of chosen.

Another thing, the market. Travel on health. To the question "Howe Mach?" ("How much?") The seller will most likely respond in Chinese. Then draw a question mark in the air and shake your shoulders. Immediately in the hands of the seller will be a calculator or a telephone on which the overestimated amount will be indicated. It must be reduced by clicking on the calculator buttons and using gestures and facial expressions. Call your absurdly low cost. This will be the beginning of the bargaining.

Show the whole view that you do not like the goods that there are flaws in it. Speak in any language that you will not take it, but to a friend. You don't need this thing, she is small (Great), not suitable in color, etc. The more details, the more convincing are your arguments. At the same time, each of you speaks in your language. You can even pretend to be disappointed and leaving. Some small seller will understand you, will appreciate and agree to a compromise price. Of course, first he hand over her throat, showing how hard it is to give the goods for such pennies.

The Chinese are traded willingly, with pleasure. If there is an opportunity to go into a common language (English or Russian), then such an argument will come true. Listen to the seller's arguments. He will tell you for a long time, at what price it buys the goods in the factory. Agree with him. Tell me that you do not want to interfere with his business and deprive it. Yes, and for a gift to friends (neighbors), this product is too expensive. You changed my mind and buy something cheaper elsewhere else. Write for persuasive value in the yuan, multiplied by 5 or 6 (according to the current yuan rate to ruble). Terribly the result, saying that in Moscow you can buy the same thing much cheaper. No Chinese seller will leave the buyer who has fallen to him. It will get a calculator (paper sheet and handle) and start bargaining. In the extreme (hopeless) case, ask for a discount. Usually do not refuse. But this option is possible if the seller and you at least speak a little in the same language.

Bargaining (in full) will not work if a person sells (often an elderly relative), who was asked to look for the goods. It will once a hundred call the goods to the owner and consult with him about discounts. It can immediately show that the bargaining is not appropriate, after which he will lose interest to you and will take on your affairs. In this version, even the wonderful knowledge of the Chinese language will not save.

Peking Street Yabao Lu is considered "Russian": many sellers here speak Russian

Help man who knows Chinese

I turned out to be many times in a situation where it was necessary to urgently solve some economic issues with the Chinese who did not speak in other languages. Immediately took the phone, I gained the number of familiar Chinese and gave them a phone. After five minutes, the interlocutors explained to each other the essence of the question (with all the details), after which I was reported what to do. This method of communication allows you to apply to the workshops on repairing things, order drinking water, etc.

In China, there is a lot of different foods. For every taste. It is very simple to navigate, since most of the menu (often it is thick books) is accompanied by snapshots of dishes. Many restaurants have a special menu for foreigners. By the way about sticks. I love it, using a plug and knife. I do not want to give up this habit and go on sticks. In most restaurants you can ask the knife and fork (often gestures). Sometimes you have to use the plastic set, which always lies in my bag. The Chinese are not doing anything before you eat.

Without the help of Chinese when filling out such a menu, you can not do

In small "dumplings", where it is preparing an incredibly delicious 饺子 ("dumplings") with different fillings, the menu is usually in Chinese. In this case, the crib will help you to show the waiter. It should be written in advance to a familiar Chinese or a person who owns Chinese, pointing out what filling you love.

It is clear that inside - dumplings

I adore Chinese Bao Tzu 包子 (flour products with a steamed filling). I buy them, showing a notebook in which there is a list of stuffs that I like. They are written by hieroglyphs (for the Chinese) and in English (for me). In order not to occupy a lot of time, counting the total cost, I stretch the knowingly big bill and take the surrender. Deception never happened.

In some restaurants you will tell you everything in English

Do not be afraid to seem funny

Once I needed to buy cream protecting from flying Sun.. At first I went to the nearest supermarket. In the cosmetics department, young saleswomen knew only Chinese. I had to get a notebook and handle. Draw a little man and sunshine. Write + 30 ° C and show how I will smear a face and body cream. Said the clarifying word "Hainan", the resort in the south of China. The saleswoman understood everything and brought two tubes. Gave one and touched his lips and an eyelids with clearly prohibiting gestures. Another tube had no contraindications. I nodded my head and made it clear that I take both tubes. After that, the saleswoman treated them to the checkout, wrote the price on a piece of paper, and only after my consent struck the goods. Put in a transparent package along with a check and gesture showed on the floor below (there were cash registers), let's understand that it will be necessary to show this package. When buying a small pantomime was played. None of the outsiders did not pay any attention.

In Chinese and Russian languages \u200b\u200bthere are words, understandable to us, and the Chinese. For example, "Tofu" 豆腐, "Ginseng" 人 参, "mango" 芒果. I bought without a translator in a pharmacy very useful for the body of a pill with ginkgo extract. I was well understood. When buying tubes with the famous Chinese ointment "999", a panacea from many misfortunes, I was enough to write three nines on a piece of paper, agree with the price and pay the purchase at the checkout to which I spent.

Our acquaintances in Beijing emerged difficulties associated with the lack of liquid for storing contact lenses. They were never solved, since an independent attempt was made to find Chinese hieroglyph, and not allow the Chinese to help solve this problem. It was necessary to show at the pharmacy or in the store where glasses are sold, an empty container for the lenses that must be fill. It was possible to clarify the wish pattern. Then the Chinese would be offered to choose best tools famous firms. China is a country of clarinks and people using lenses. Everything that concerns optics is well-developed. There is no lack of care products.

This is only a small tolik of those techniques that help feel in China without knowledge of the language. China is a country convenient to live in which you can always find options for communication. In some cities there are quarters and streets, with inscriptions in Russian, sellers who have studied Russian. However, it is easy to navigate and solve your tasks, even being in the Chinese environment without knowing the language.

MA: If you are going to China, it is useful to write down on a piece of paper and on the phone several useful hieroglyphs that will allow you to navigate. In addition, there are various mobile applications - translators. I use dictionaries "Lingvo" (Russian-Chinese and Chinese-Russian) and "Pleco" (English-Chinese), as well as Google translator.

Even if you do not know Chinese, install Chinese in your phone, with two options: with the help of a phony phonetic alphabet (symbols recorded by the Latinian) and by writing the hieroglyph on the touchpad. In case of any problems, you can ask the Chinese to write an unfamiliar word or phrase in the phone and then translate it into Russian.

Perhaps reading this article, you still decide to learn Chinese. Then read the post.

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To visit China and do not visit the Great Wall of the Wall - a crime. True, here, as well as everywhere in China, there is a problem of choice: go yourself or with organized tourBut then she is still exacerbated by the question: where exactly go, on what section of the wall? Share your samples and mistakes in this matter.

How to go?

China is probably the only country from all of us visited, where I am ready to ratify organized excursions. For 2 months, conducted here, already fed up that nothing happens from the first time, and information in guidebooks is very often significantly different from what is really. But on the other hand, the excursions for foreigners in English have official travel agencies stand some cosmic money, and with a budget version there is a risk of riding a bus, a bit of chicks by the Chinese or to highlight most of the time not walking around the wall, but to visiting tea stores And Onyx.

In addition, an excursion to the Great Wall of China is one of the most popular wiring of Peking "Ostaps Bendery." It looks like this: on the street to you lipnets called, which convinces you to buy a tour of him to the Great Wall of China. It says that he works at this place since the time of his comrade Mao, his excursions are the best and cheap, demonstrates the photos of satisfied customers and argues that it is built by the turns from tourists, but he liked him and therefore he will be lucky with pleasure tomorrow.

It broads it is very eloquently and convincingly and you almost agree, especially since the good "guide" does not even ask you the entire cost of the excursion immediately, interest 20-30 to reserve you. He "Mom", "which will not deceive and tomorrow at the appointed time will take you straight from the hotel. But it comes tomorrow, and there is no bus, there is no guide on "his place", there is no money either.

About the possibility of such a wiring, as well as we were pre-warned in advance, and therefore immediately rejected such proposals, but I want to note, it was not enough. Compare all the "for" and "against" we once again chose an independent inspection, and never regretted, almost ...

Where to go?

Currently, several sections of the wall are open to inspection: Badalin, Mutyanyu, Symenha, Jinshanlyn, Huanghua, Tsyugulo. After studying travel guides, endless expanses of Internet and tourist forums, we came to the conclusion that one day can only be reached until the first two: Badalin and Mutyanyuy. Badalin is the most affordable part of the wall and therefore the most visited, so initially we decided to go to Mutyanuy.

Mutyanyu

So, in theory to get to Mutyanyu first you need to find bus terminal which is located at the metro station Dongzhimen . Everything is exacerbated by the fact that you need not the main terminal, which is located at the subway, but some extra. It is not easy to find it, as there are no signs, and all verbose descriptions on the Internet are actually little help. It is good that we try to always give the exact location of the desired objects on the map, and you have no such problems.

After you, with grief in half, found a bus station, you need to go to the deeder, there will be a bus that you need, and more precisely buses, since we found information that the Mutyanyu from this station go buses or 867 or 936. One is an important part, if you follow the information we found, the route 867 buses depart at 7:00 and 8:30 am, so you have to get up early. We came to the station somewhere 7:30 and the 867 bus (or more) stood at the bus stop, we showed the driver recorded in advance the hieroglyphs, to which he, as he could explain that he did not go to Mutyanyu, but rides to the place From where we should continue to go by taxi. OK, we decided, it means the 936th exactly go where we need. And they began to wait for it (by the way, the 867th bus went at 8:00).

In addition to us at the bus stop there were some Japanese, Chinese with cameras and European with a Lonely Planet guide. By the way, he twisted a bit between the buses and quickly retraced somewhere. Somewhere at 8:30 picked up a coveted bus and we had fun in a lot. And there was a real feeling that the baby is kept around you, in my memory it is so many times to change my place for schoolchildren. Before departing, the conductor approached us and asked where we were going, in Chinese, naturally. By the way, in Si'an, when we went to watch the terracotta army, the conductor perfectly spoke in English, which means.

In response to this, we, as in the case of the previous bus, have demonstrated pre-prepared hieroglyphs and prepared for departure. But it was not there. Our hieroglyphs did not suit her something, she, together with the driver, began to noise something, scream and actually poured us out of the bus. What it was and why, it remains a mystery to us, as well as all China)))
I get used to that we don't have anything from the first time in the subway, we decided to try happiness the next day, but for now, go to see the Olympic facilities. Since we did not want to once again experience fate with cordons and Mutyanyuy, and therefore decided to use the plan B, i.e. Go to Badalin.

Badalin

Of course, this is the most tourist of all possible wall options, but the train goes there. And the train for us - the best way Getting to complex attractions that have repeatedly got out of us, for example in Kunmin, when we.

So, the trains on Badalin are recovered with northern Railway Station , it is at the station Xinhimen . All trains of the directions we need have a 4-digit number, begin with "S2", and then 01-99. At the same time, the odd number ride in Badalin, and even in Beijing. By the way, this direction appeared not so long ago - it was built to the Summer Olympiad in Beijing.

Train timetable posted on the stand, but in China everything changes so quickly that I do not do it for its relevance. Tickets for sale day a day, that is, it will not be possible to buy them in advance. The procedure of the trip is that in the one way that is about the same one.

You buy a ticket at the ticket office (by the way there is only 6 CNY), you go inside the station and get in line. The Chinese have straight unrealistic love of the queues: they first create it from scratch, and then try to cheat everyone and turn around. But here they can not do anything - it is necessary to stand, since metal guides highly tightly regulate the sequence of the most hunted tourists. The platform is allowed for about 15 minutes before departure, and here it begins the fun ...

The fact is that the train costs far enough from the station building. Therefore, after going to the platform, all fun flee to the train, hoping to take places. The attraction is also, especially considering that the border tile on the platform is quite slippery and this jog can easily end with serious injury.
Interesting observation, the Chinese for some reason prefer to climb into the very first car closest to them, and then go further inside the train. If you do not be lazy and run until the end of the train, the probability of occupying places is significantly increasing.

One and a half - two hours in the train and we are in place. Further, the whole crowd fell out of the train and goes towards the wall, about 10-20 minutes, depending on the speed and number of pictures made on the road. It is important to remember that Badalin is not a finite station, but since the bulk of passengers is income here

Separately I will tell you about our railway experience and how we mined food in this trip. All their movements between cities in China we made on trains.

These were our dish requirements. Well, when there is a menu with pictures in the cafe. I, in general, like meals with a sweet sauce, although I can't eat them. But Lena did not like them.

In general, the Chinese have a special love for sweet - even finding no sweet bread is practically not possible. Bread in our understanding we did not find there at all.

All sausages, what we tried to try, even outwardly and were like our, but the taste was gadko sweet.

Potatoes there is also all sweet.

By the way, we liked Chinese beer.

As a result, we had a set of dish requirements:

• 不 辣 - búlà - not sharp
• 甜 - Bùtián or 不加糖 - Bùjiātáng - not sweet,
• 没有 豆腐 - Méiyǒudòufu - without tofu.

Sometimes you need to say that the dish you packed with you. We just showed this phrase written in Chinese. It is time for us to learn it:

请 把 这 菜给 菜给 我 包 - QǐNG Bǎ Zhèdàocài Gěi Wǒ Bāo.

Maybe you will come in handy in your journey.

Once we tried to order Baozimi. The menu was without pictures. Used the familiar hieroglyph 鸡 - jī - chicken. We were delighted - they decided to order Baocet with a filling of chicken. They were tasty, but the chicken we did not find there. There was 鸡蛋 - jīdàn - an egg. We knew how this word sounds, but did not remember how it is written.

A good review of Chinese food wrote by the owner of the blog Way2china Anna in the article what and how the Chinese eat.

I managed 65 minutes before departure. Corrected to approach the flight on the train.

LESSON

• Before big crossinglets, leave the day in the city of departure - always there is, where there is a walk there, and definitely do not be late for the plane.

Despite the fact that China is becoming increasingly popular with tourists around the world, the Internet reviews of our compatriots about trips to China, to put it mildly, are ambiguous, so let's talk about those features of the country that can be unacceptable for some travelers.

1. If the term of your passport is less than 6 months from the end of the planned tour, choose another country

In the Chinese consulate, all documentary formalities are strictly observed, so in order to avoid problems with obtaining a visa and breaking the trip, it is better not to risk and take care of a new passport in advance.

2. If you are not ready for additional troubles associated with obtaining a Chinese visa

There is nothing fundamentally difficult to prepare documents for obtaining a Chinese visa - no extra references are required, only passport, questionnaire, copies of the Russian passport, photography and invitation from the Chinese side. Consular fee for a tourist trip - 1500 rubles. Moreover, if you are planning to relax on Hainan, then when you fly a direct flight from Moscow, the visa is not needed at all!

Mountain Lake in China

3. If you are fundamentally flying only on charter flights, then - alas!

Only regular flights of airlines Hainan Airlines, Aeroflot, etc. can be found in China. From St. Petersburg to Beijing, aircraft fly on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Accordingly, the duration of the trip should be "customized" to schedule the airline. The time in flight is about 7 hours.

China

4. If when traveling by train you are used to buying out the coupe completely to feel comfortable, then in China you will have to fly on airplanes

In China, it is impossible to buy a coupe completely or partly, that is, if in the program excursion tour Planned by train by train between cities, then you will have to share a quadruple coupe or with tourists from your group or with the Chinese. Double coupe does not exist. As a rule, moving between cities night and last about 12 hours, for example, between Beijing and Xiem.

One of the entrances to the Forbidden City

In the event that this issue is fundamental for you, there is a variant with travel on domestic flights. By the way, in China, the flight is very developed and a fairly high level of safety of flights. Luggage transport rules in hand luggage Even more stringent than those adopted all over the world.

China

5. If you do not transfer tobacco smoke, choose another country or reserve the respirator

The Chinese smoke a lot. Accordingly, almost everywhere it smells like tobacco, the hotels come across smoky rooms, in the lobby of hotels, guests are smoking too. It is forbidden to smoke in a coupe of trains, in restaurants you can choose the room for non-smoking visitors.

Chinese depth

6. If you are on a special diet or very selective in food, take your favorite (preferred) products with you

The fact that Chinese cuisine is very originally written and is written very much, but as far as it is suitable for you, you will understand only, so to speak, "on the spot." Someone lacks meat - indeed, the basis of the Chinese diet is sweened, boiled, stew vegetables, noodles and rice. Someone does not tolerate acute and salty. If in Beijing, Shanghai and other major cities can still be found adapted for Europeans food, then there will be a problem in the province. You can find usual cutlery only in large cities, you will have to eat chopsticks in the outback. Of course, and in China there are places that were lured by the British and Americans, where the kitchen, and the rest of the amenities at the highest level, for example, natural Reserve Panda, but it is rather an exception.

Giant Buddha Statue, Lasshan

7. If you have experienced a cultural shock when visiting public restrooms in the former Soviet Union (or in modern India) and no longer want to see them again, then choose another country for travel

All public toilets in China are free. Tourists who made Soviet "amenities" seeing Chinese - think "Scoop". Indeed, it is very similar: two soles and a metal bowl at the floor level, the absence of toilet paper and the corresponding smell. So those tourists who still go to China, advice - take with you toilet paper and wet wipes.

8. If you prefer silence and privacy, and your personal psychologically comfortable space is one and a half meters - select another country

In China, many people. Not even so - in China there are a lot of people! This fact actually entails and many of the most diverse consequences, namely: everyone is constantly taking the friend's friend with elbows and other parts of the body, speak quite loudly, so very noisy, look at the sincere, but completely unceremonious curiosity all interesting and unusual, for example - you

Against the background of the Great Wall

9. If your travel budget assumes a sum of less than 50 thousand rubles per person, then you need to choose another country or take a loan

The most fiscal option for acquaintance with China is a weekly tour of Beijing. Today it costs from 50 thousand rubles per person. If within a week stay you want to watch Xi'an (Terracotta Armor) and Shanghai, expect for at least 70 thousand rubles per person. To not only view the main cities, but also a week to relax on the island of Hainan, lay the budget from 100 thousand per person. Very very popular among stars of domestic and international show business uses treatment in China - both in the central part and on the island of Hainan.

In order to feel comfortable when planning a tour and directly on the trip, you can use the installment service that is offered, for example, our company for up to 7 months under 0% per annum.

Village S. rice fields, China

10. If your vacation has to celebrate the Day of Education of the Republic of China or the Chinese New Year, go to another country

In China, there are two grand holidays - this is the day of the formation of the People's Republic of China and the Chinese New Year. During these periods - from 09/28/04 and the last decade of February-beginning of March (celebrated by lunar calendarTherefore, there are no exact dates) - In China, official state weekend, and all the Chinese begin to travel throughout the country. Prices for hotels grow three times, and a pillar begins on tourist sites. So it is better to schedule a journey to other dates. Perfect time, especially for combined tours - This is spring and autumn, when the mainland is warm and on the island of Hainan is not very hot.

Among other tourists, China

In conclusion, I want to say: I am sure that the journey to China will not leave anyone indifferent. Our tourists return from this long-life country with invariably positive impressions.

Panda

If you have questions, write: [email protected]

"What do you want to go alone in China, without a group of tourists?" The Khabarovsk Travel agency worker looked at me with undisguised horror. "- You will be lost there, if only because you do not know the language!" "I assure you, everything will be fine, just help me make a visa!" - I insisted.

The desire to see the imminent thing was so strong that the instinct of self-preservation was stuck, and the inner voice persuaded to fly, because "there is so much interesting!" At the same time, I wanted to move around the country alone, without a standard-tourist "look left, see right." It turned out that it was not at all difficult. Moreover, in my opinion, this is the most correct way to see the country in all its diversity. Of course, it would be not bad to have acquaintances in China - so automatically solved the most difficult question - with the language. In addition, the knowledge of the local flavor and the Tips of Insiders can significantly reduce not only your transport costs, but also insure money from money losses, and in some cases save your stomach.

To the language barrier!

Before the trip, it is necessary to make aware that in China everyone speaks only in Chinese. English is used very little, mainly in big cities - Beijing, Shanghai or Hong Kong. At first, of course, it is difficult to get used to: all signs, ads, schedules and menus consist of hieroglyphs that are rarely duplicated in English. At first I was saved by a phrasebook, in which there was not only the transcription of Chinese words, but also writing them. After long training, I, of course, learned to correctly pronounce the basic expressions of the "Hello" and "how much", but for myself I was understanding that more complex phrases are better to show with a finger in a book. The fact is that the adverbs in Chinese so much that the Chinese from the north will not understand Southerner, and vice versa. For example, the "forty-four" in Northern will be "Si Si", and the residents of the South say "si si" - approximately as "Schork Sachet". Official is considered to be the language of Putunhua - translated "Common Language". To teach their citizens to speak the same, the government is making a lot of effort. Include some radio, and there instead of music all the way only conversations on Putunhua.

Where and how to go

South China is good at any time of the year. In the winter, it is better not to ride in the winter - the weather is practically no different from our Mediumness. When choosing a route, you need to take into account your financial capabilities and the duration of the visa. For those who want to start a journey from Beijing, it makes sense to take a ticket for a direct flight (about five hundred fifty dollars in both ends), and from there you can already move around the country by train. If you are limited in time, then you can fly from the city to the city and on airplanes - good, in China they are available at a price. About the railway message will tell more. Tickets for any direction can only be bought in the bail office. The only problem is to explain what a ticket and where you need. Moreover, this is preferably in Chinese, as even if there is a window with a table "Foreigners" ("foreigners") - not yet the fact that the Cassiere girl speaks English.

You need to come to the station for 20-30 minutes before the train is being deposited - you will relatively calmly pass control. The train will go on a minute in a minute, and you should get to the "tube" from those who want to go along with you the Chinese - writing gone.

There are several classes of Chinese cars:

Cams cheap - without places. In them, passengers stand or lie on the floor - on the newspapers, on which it fell; Cident. It is better not to risk if you go far, and the spin is fiercely; Hard-slippers resembling our departors, only shelves in three tiers, the bed is already shining, and there are no side seats; Coupe, which looks like Russian, only cars are much cleaner, beds with Ryushkami, on the floor carpet tracks. Each train has a restaurant car - after all, the Chinese are constantly eating something. In all trains, the washbasins are located in front of the toilet, and, thus, the morning turn to the closet is rare phenomenon. But you can, for example, enjoy the spectacle of the morning washing of a plug-in jaw, which the unfamiliar Chinese grandmother does with a special care.

I was driving from Beijing to Jinan in Hard Slipper (about 6 hours), and I cost me 73 yuan - about 200 rubles in our money. The price of a ticket from Beijing to Shanghai (night on the road) - 250 yuan, that is, about 685 rubles. Inexpensive, but I, for example, it was difficult to get used to chinese trains. Basically, due to the fact that the passengers are constantly smoking, eat "Dashirak" noodles, talk loudly and without constraints - and men, and women are walking along the car in the pants.

Where to live and what to take with you

A breakfast room in a four-star hotel in the center of Harbin cost me 300 yuan a day (eight hundred and twenty rubles). The hotel was not bad, but some Chinese lived in it, and the staff did not understand the words in English. Attempts to ask where they have a gym, looked like helpless melting with hands - with the goal of gestures show the "simulator", and requests to wake up at a certain time caused confusion from the receptionist.

Hostels - youth hostels can become a more economical accommodation for young people. One bed in a double room at International Youth Hostel, which is located right central Station In Beijing, it can do in 70 yuan (200 rubles) per day. All you need for life, there is: a shower, a 24-hour bar and an Internet cafe. By the way, you can save even more if you settle in Dorma - a room with 3-12 beds and amenities in the corridor. Depending on the city, such a housing is 20-60 yuan (55-175 rubles) per night.

To this standard setting of the search funds, I will add another one - Toutes - option to stay in a private apartment. People offering "cheap apartments in the center of Beijing" are interpreted at the stations and request completely small money. I did not try myself, but the knowledgeable travelers assure that they should not be afraid - here, in contrast, for example, from India, there is no danger that there will be some problems with these apartments.

On the trip I advise you to take a comfortable backpack, good sports shoes - for long-term hiking walks, Thermos (boiling water is available everywhere and free of charge) and more some small souvenirs of the type of matryoshki - the Chinese love to receive gifts and may even somehow help you inapprafting.

What in China watch

Of all the cities, the most impression produces, of course, Beijing. Or, as foreigners are called, Baidzin. After I visited him, it was easy to understand Quentin Tarantino, which came here to shoot my film "Kill Bill", and I could not leave. I bought apartments in Beijing and, by rumors, over time plans to completely move to the Middle Kingdom. The city shook me with his monumentality. I expected to see the crowds carrying somewhere Chinese with crazy eyes, thrust on the streets, traffic jams. But nothing was it. The human flow moved smoothly and without hysterical louds, as in Moscow.

In the architecture, two main directions are connected here: East and West. The first is represented by pagodes, with easily recognizable, bent up the roofs and mandatory dragons as an element of design. The second is the skyscrapers that the space is not blocked at all.

All those who first come to Beijing are starting to inspect the city with the famous Tiananiman - Square of Heavenly Calm. She is the biggest in the world, accommodates one million people! It is always crowded - not only because of foreign tourists, but also because of the Chinese, residents of distant provinces that come to be able to take pictures from Mausoleum Mao Zedong. And adults and children on the square are launched aerial coats. Immediately you can buy your snake - in the form of shark, butterflies or other messengers.

On the square, I noticed a little child - about 3 years old, from which there was a hole in the pants and a naked ass was blown away by the wind. I, it was, thought that this is notading parents. But then I saw several more kids with the same strange Crowe of the pants. It turned out that the economical Chinese do not like to spend money on diapers. I wanted a child to the toilet, sat down - and ready!

In the mornings, at six hours, the Chinese overlook the square and are engaged in a group Taijitzian - a melancholic charge, the meaning of which consists in sluggish passes with hands and cautious stirs from side to side.

Not far from Mausoleum Mao is the entrance to the Forbidden City - huge complex Palace buildings, where the great emperors of the Qing dynasties and min lived. Hundreds of pagodas, thousands of courtyards - the spectacle is striking with its scale. Previously, simple mortal was forbidden to go here, and now it is possible - in just 10 yuan (27 rubles).

Coming out of the Forbidden City, you get to the wonderful park of Beihai (Park north Sea), where the venssens rested, indulging, apparently, thoughts about the fatherland. What to say - the Chinese know a lot in landscape architecture. Half Square occupies a lake around which the crazy beauty is growing. This park adore in love couples and calligraphists. The first is because it is allowed to kill calmly on benches, the second - because you can draw hieroglyphs with water right on the asphalt.

From the park you can walk to the famous Sky Temple. This is now China, probably, the most unbelieving country in the world (ninety-five percent of atheists). And before they believed in the sky and other deities. The road to the temple is already a test. Approximately half an hour should be followed by a narrow stone path. It was very requested when I was chipping and hoarse, at the last stage of the rise overtook a sudden Chinese old woman, which overcame the path easily and easily.

On the territory of the temple there is a wall of a whisper. She is a semicircular shape, and it allows you to hear the interlocutor, even if he stands in a hundred meters from you and will burst something under his breath. The Chinese love to have fun, standing at the wall in the distance from each other and talking.

Less discovery was waiting for me in Shanghai. Maybe because it is very modern, and maybe, because I stayed there for long. As soon as this city was not called at different times: and the "Paris of the East", and the "Chinese Bludnica" ... This is a city of adventurers, players, sailors, traders in opium and opium drug addicts, the city of children's prostitution and slavish child labor, the city of socialists, communists and revolutionaries , the birthplace of the Chinese Communist Party, the cradle of the revolution and the birthplace of the Shanghai commune. It lives 6.5 million people - settlement density is one of the highest in the world. There is a huge number of skyscrapers. And they, in contrast to Peking, pressure. Fashionable buildings are easily adjacent to the old buildings, from which the ropes are drawn with the liner-strung on them. It is not at all tolerant to post all the heads of old lines and coordinates.

In the city center - a wide asphalted space of the People's Square. Here we arranged processions and demonstrations. In 1969, 2.5 million people gathered on the square for a protest rally against the Soviet Union. And now the walking peacefully feed pigeons.

On the streets you can see both young Yappets and informals. During the walk, it was challenged to meet real Chinese punks. They had a very tracked look, despite the traditional Hedgehog Haiter, jackets with spikes, grinders and guitars behind the backs. Ourselves are skinny and neglected. When they tried to play something from "Sex Pistols" in front of the department store, I wanted to approach and feed them with a hot lunch.

Walking in Shanghai is just necessary. Better - on Nanjing Lou, the main street. Bright showcases, everywhere neon advertising. And shops, shops, shops. Nanjing Lu leads to the Huangpu River Embankment. Once in colonial times here at the entrance hung the famous sign: "Dogs and the Chinese entry is prohibited." Today, the crowds of Chinese and foreigners who are admorable by the view of the night gang are roaming here.

Dumpy eggs and duck skins

About Chinese often joke that they consume everything that flies other than aircraft, everything that moves on land, except for the tractor, and everything that floats in water, except for a submarine.

Chinese cooks confess the principles of culinary art, which have developed another five thousand years ago. They love unexpected combinations of products: meat with sugar and fruit, algae - with nuts, flower petals - with burning peppers, heels - with spices. In order to cook broth, for example, can take both beef, bird and fish simultaneously.

In China, there are about 14 culinary schools, the most famous of which are Shandong, Sichuan, Jiangsu-Zhejiang, Peking and Guangdong. The latter is the most "extreme". It uses snakes, wild mice, wild cats, dogs, sea seals, crocodiles, bear paws, monkey brains, bird languages. Technology of some dishes are just a rat. When cooking dishes "Fried carp from Lake Cunming" scraping scales, cutting, roasting and serving are only four minutes. When the fish is fed on the table, it still opens the mouth, and the gills move for thirty minutes. This agony continues even when the fish is eaten before the bones. The secret of such a survivability is that the head of fish is not frying and the central nervous system is preserved. In general, Greenpeace rests.

"Queen of the Chinese table" - Duck in Peking. Instead of a duck, though you bring duck skins, which tourists are very surprised. But if you come to a fish restaurant, it's hard to be mistaken here: everything floats in the aquariums. Come on, choose - and ten minutes you are already carrying a dish. True, it was difficult for me to accept the fact that the chosen fish in my eyes is killed by a shoe, which is why its insides will fly away throughout the restaurant.

Even the Chinese adore rotten duck eggs. To cook such an egg, it needs to hold it in lime 30 days! Yolk has black and insensitive taste. Protein - as if rubber, almost transparent.

In the mid-level restaurant and below the Chinese "mid-level and below" behave perfectly from a European point of view, swine: blow the root and spit directly to the floor, they throw off the napkins, bones and smoke, yell on the entire room, especially when Let's drink By the way, they are expectorated on the streets - loud, wiping her nose and mouth with hand. Even women.

The Chinese love to put each other in a plate of food. And when they bring an account, there is a serious argument between them: who will pay. Everyone strives to do it for everyone to prove its privileged position. Our compatriots are happy to go with the Chinese on restaurants ...

Monitoring behavior

The Chinese are very shrieking people. Their gentle voices are the only one in its kind. Once in the United States occurred an anecdotic case. Two people from the province of Guangdong led a peaceful conversation, but the Americans passed by the people thought that they were about to divide, and called the police. The police demanded clarification, but two interlocutors answered that they spoke "whisper".

Why do they scream? Chinese believes that the stronger and above his voice, the more convincing is his arguments.

In a country with a population without a small 1.3 billion people in sports regularly engaged in more than a quarter of the population. Mass physical education covers all educational institutions, enterprises and institutions, villages, divisions of the People's Liberation Army of China, old men and disabled. Chinese habit of making group charging is known for the whole world. And they make it at different times of the day. Many are engaged in groups and music, but there are individuals. There are fittings with sticks. They wack them on the manner of Shaolin monks right on the streets.

Very often you can see people going back in advance. Probably, this is an exercise for the development of the vestibular apparatus. Each city has courtyards equipped with sheeping shells available for each willing, and for free. The old mans like the foot on the tall railing, and sometimes sit on the twine. And since millions of Chinese are driving daily pedals of bicycles on the way to work and back, they have pumped legs.

Against the background of the cooking hobby, the Chinese smoke a lot and drink. Vodka and cigarettes are sold everywhere, although their quality is terrible. China 320 million smokers, of which are twenty million women. Hence the large number of "nicotine deaths." But no one indulges a detrimental habit on the streets - the Chinese prefer to do this in a relaxed atmosphere: in a restaurant or bar.

In general, I am pleased with my journey. Maybe I saw this country not from the most romantic-glossy side, but, in any case, impressions and memories the trip left the lot.

Yes. I agree with the previous comment that Beijing flashes in front of Shanghai and Hong Kong long ago, and reminds Moscow for 80 years, where the author saw so much unusual, it is not clear, for me, Beijing is always the opposite, only the transshipment base is much more interesting, other Chinese cities, in this case I do not have in mind cultural monuments, koi in Beijing a lot.
25.07.11 Natalia.

indeed, the comment is very deployed. But it seems that the author visited China 10 years ago (a description of Shanghai - exactly 10 years ago, the spirit of communism is not twisted there, definitely). Although it is possible if ride around the country in second-class car, not yet it will seem.
05.06.10 Olga

Good day, thank you so much for such a detailed comment, because I myself plan to go without a guide and it was important for me to understand how much it was possible and your feedback was more than deciding in favor of a trip without a guide, thanks again!
01.03.10 Yana