On December 5, 2003, an event occurred, which can be considered to be completed by the Grand Construction of the Baikal Amur Highway (Bama): the North-Misk Tunnel in the Angarakan Saddle Stall of the North-Musky Range was commissioned.

Before moving on to the story about this Giant (North Mai - the longest tunnel in Russia - 15343 m), it is worth reminding about the history of Bama. Exquisitions of the second railway access to the Pacific Ocean, from Taishet to the Soviet Harbor, began in 1932. Already then it was clear that the Trans-Siberian Highway would sooner or later choke in the flow stream. Until the memorable June 1941, they managed to build very little, then the rails from new sites were removed for the needs of the front. After the victory, the road was reached only up to Ust-Kut on the Lena River, as well as from Komsomolsk-on-Amur to Soviet, in the destroyed war, more important construction workers were.

Secondively, the idea of \u200b\u200bBama returned in the 1970s. In 1974, legendary construction began: Komsomolsk and youth detachments, construction teams from all republics of the USSR went to Baikal, in Transbaikalia and at the Far East. So, the whole country, almost a decade, according to the deaf places, where there were no ways for before, a thread was laid railway. Finally, on September 29, 1984 on the banks of the Sulban River in the north of the Chita region, in the place where there is a small Rabocht Railway, the Rails of Bama closed.

Most of the Transbaikalia represents mining country; Baikal himself also surround the mountains from all sides. If the transmibes envelopes almost everything mountain ridges From the south and goes on a relatively smooth area, the BAM had to be paved through all the Fed Highlands. One of the highest mountain chains is the north-Misk Range, which will reach 2561 m.

This is one of the most beautiful places Transbaikalia. Sharp granite-shale peaks almost all year round are covered with snow. Very many ice shapes of the relief, on the steep slopes only the bushes of the cedar slate are held. There are almost no forests on the mountains - it grows only by valleys. Fast crystal-transparent rivers carry their waters in the upper hangar and vitim.

The North Mai Ridge turned out to be almost an irresistible obstacle for the railway. In the process of searching for the Baikal-Amur highway, several options for its intersection were considered. All of them demanded the facilities of multi-kilometer tunnels: a low pass, such as, for example, between Kodar and Kalar ridges, there is no. After a long research was chosen in the upper reaches of the Angarakan River.

The North Mai Giant is built in the most complex engineering and geological conditions. Rock rocks, permafrost on the shipping (at the beginning and end of the tunnel) sites, areas of unstable breeds of increased fracture, numerous zones of active faults with a width of 5 to 900 m, water stands up to several hundred cubic meters per hour with hydrostatic pressure up to 34 atm, including The number is high-temperature, the presence of floors in granites, the overpriced state of the rocks. Seismicity of this area - 9-10 points. But it simply does not exist more suitable for the intersection of the North-Musian Range of the Railway.

On May 28, 1977, the tunnel detachment number 18 began the penetration from the Western Portal. Six months later, work began on the east. Later in three places above the track of the future tunnel, vertical shaft trunks were laid, which strongly facilitating the next work.

And without that slowly running construction all the time braked by accidents. After the docking of the BAM and the opening of the end-to-end movement of trains (through the highlight bypass of the North-Musky Tunnel), the attention of the country to this construction was weakened, the means began to allocate much less. And then another "brake" appeared - the beginning of the restructuring and decline in the economy.

Additional difficulties created an insufficient study of the tunnel zone - was drilled exploratory wells much less than it was necessary. In the process of work, the project was repeatedly finalized, new methods of penetration and tunnel of the tunnel were created.

About the north-Misk Tunnel say that each kilometer is paid for four lives. 57 people died in several accidents. In 1979, at the very beginning of construction, the brigade of the passchors Vladimir Kozheyakin in the western site faced with a high-pressure hangworm. The pressure blew up the granite jumper, separating the bottom from the zone of the fault, and about a hundred thousand cubic meters of water with stone wreckage and sand rushed into the bottom and rushed along the simple plot, despicable everything in their path. Almost two years were eliminated by the consequences of this catastrophe, for some time the penetrations were even afraid to go down to the bottom. Another major accident occurred in 1999, when the last jumper remained only 160 m. The collapse of the breed reduced the labor of several months, the site of the tunnel actually had to build anew.

Fortunately, the North-Misk Tunnel escaped the fate of the Kodarsky, which was built in a hurry to the planned explosion of the last jumper - the crawling - Bama, allowed a 15-meter gap between the caretaker and the ruin, as a result of which the collapse stopped in 1984. Construction for half a year, forcing Not provided by the plan's transfer bypass.

In the 1990s, the work was carried out extremely slowly, and only on March 30, 2001, the brigades of V. Gatsenko and V. Casev was crashed a tunnel. At the same time, record accuracy was achieved - the difference between the development axes was 69 mm horizontally and 36 mm vertically, although more than 15 kilometers were passed to this point in the depth. On December 21, 2001, the first train was held on the tunnel.

Already in our age, almost happened old story: Tunnel crashes took place solemn event reported all the media, in Seversk a high boss was visited. But there was still a lot of work, the complex complex of monitoring the state of the tunnel was to mounted, equip the exploration transport and drain gallery, remove the equipment from the shafts and remake them into the ventilation. Despite the fundamental position of the MPS, the funds were highlighted rather poorly - preparation for the opening took another two years, and only on December 5, 2003, after completing all the works, the tunnel was taken into continuous operation.

The total length of the mountain generation of the tunnel is about 45 km. Three vertical mine barrels are used now for ventilation, and a smaller diameter is being developed along the entire main tunnel - an exploring-drine-drain gallery. It removes water seeping into the tunnel, the communication cables and railroad rails are laid here, which are used to move technical staff to the gallery. In operation there are seismic and radiation control systems, complex communication networks, lighting. The microclimate in the tunnel help maintain a special gate created in the space center them. Khrunichev. They open before each train and closed behind him again.

In the 1990s, opinions were expressed that due to the danger of colon in the tunnel, passenger trains would never go. These are only rumors: the builders give a century-old guarantee in the construction of the tunnel in the conditions of calculated 9-point earthquakes. The quality of construction and engineering calculation turned out to be higher than all concerns. The tunnel is recognized as safe in operation.

The North-Misk Tunnel has reduced the path through the Angarakan pass from 57 to 23 km, and travel time - from 1220 to 25 min. Now throughout the Bamu, the movement of full freight trains is possible - even the rise in Mururinsky pass, higher point Highway, has much smaller slopes than the old bypass. Main flow trains goes On the tunnel, and bypass is left as a spare track.

Differently developed the fate of two villages, built as bases for the builders of the tunnel. The village tunnel, located near the western portal, is evicted and erased from the face of the earth. His inhabitants moved to Taksimo, nearby Severmusk, or left "on Large land"- in the southern areas of Buryatia.

Located by the Eastern Portal, Severmusk became one of the many Bam villages. Here people live, whose work is related to the service of the railway. The construction plan of 2002-2003 includes the improvement of Severmusk, the construction of several capital buildings and all the necessary infrastructure. Now there are not only railway workers, but also the operating staff of the tunnel.

It is worth saying a few words and about the modern bypass of the North-Musky Tunnel, which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful plot of all Bama. In order not to exceed the maximum allowable slope when lifting the Angarakan pass, the railway line is found in the slopes on the slopes of the mountains, the serpentine rises to the translated saddle. Where on the surface of only 16 km, the train overcomes almost 55 km, climbing and going down on Polkilometer.

Bypass you can see several unique engineering objects. The most famous, undoubtedly, "damn bridge" is a high flight on bunk supports above the line of Itcyt, curved and located in the lift. They say, when he follows heavy trains, this bridge even rushed a little.

On both sides of the pass are looped tunnels (terrain relief did not allow to make the bend of serpentine on the slope), and this turn is made inside the mountain - the train enters the portal, and after a while it is shown from another portal over or under first, making a turnover of 180 degrees. This is especially good on the western tunnel (№1) - its portals are located almost with each other. When cargo trains passed bypass, empty formulations could be quite long. In this case, the locomotive appeared from the tunnel rather soon after the last car was hidden.

The tour history is as difficult as all that is associated with the construction of Bama. Initially, the North-Misk Tunnel was planned to open in 1986-1987. So that the construction does not delay the construction of the entire highway for the passage of construction goods in a short

the timing, since August 1982 to March 1983, was built a temporary round - the line of the Angarakan - Kazankan with a length of 24.6 km. His project was drawn up by highly lightweight standards (a bias of up to 40 meters per kilometer distance), as a result of which the average length of the cargo train was only a few wagons - there could not raise a larger weight on such a steepness. But this bypass allowed to skip the overlayer to the east and bring the rails and other materials necessary on the construction of the Maintenance.

After the first years of construction and heavy accidents it became clear that the North Miskie Tunnel would not work quickly. Bam fence took place, but the oldest Musky traverse was the most narrow place of the highway: cargo trains had to discover in front of him, and the movement of passenger on such shocks was forbidden - from the Starkan station to the Kazaknan station, people were visited by car travel buses through the pass .

In November 1985, the construction of a modern bypass was launched (length 54.3 km, bias up to 18 m / km), completed by 1989. At the same time, the old detour was disassembled, and now only mound and concrete bridges point to his track. Nowadays, despite the successful end of the quarter-century construction of the North-Musky tunnel, the high-altitude round is still left in the work - it can still come in handy as the second path with the growth of cargo flow.

Unfortunately, now passengers of fast and passenger trains Almost they do not see the beauty of the mountains and looping over them by circumstances - they all pass through the tunnel, and deep at night. Only working trains Taximo-New Wyan, carrying mainly railway workers twice a day each side followed bypass, meeting the passage. Such a train usually consists of old film Wagon, platforms for the ways inventory and electric locomotive VL-65. Occasionally on the platform you can see not only sleepers and jacks, but also a mountain of multi-colored backpacks - tourists come to the landscapes of the North-Musky Range and bypass.

In order for the beauty of the "golden buckle of the BAM" to you, you have to make some effort. To view a trades from the train and at the same time have time to walk during the parking lots on the roadside, you need to spend the night in a new Wyoan (there are no hotels and the turbases there, only a station with rigid benches), and then in the morning working train to go to Taksimo. The reverse version does not provide for overnight stay at the station, but less preferable because of small parking lots on the road.

But it is best to come here in the summer with a tent, to land on the driven passage and slowly go on foot on one or the other side - to Kazankan or Angarakan, where trains stop far follow. The tunnels are guarded, but no one bothers a little cut off the way, descending from the loop on the loop on the mountainside, surrounded by the cedar stabel and rare larchs.

It is a hiking way that will allow plenty of enjoy beauty mountain vertices And admire the human genius, carrying the railway in the oldest conditions of the North-Musky Range ...

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Golden buckle of the steel belt of Russia September 27th, 2013

This magnificent title appeared over a hundred years ago. So they ordered a small segment of the Trans-Siberian railway track, which is now called "round-baked". Or, just longer: "Krugobaikal Railway" (KBD). Oddly enough, the term "KBD" himself never appeared in the documents. This road received a separate name by no means as an official division of the MPS. It was allocated only by its uniqueness, engineering complexity and beauty.

Rocks in these edges are pressed close to the shore. Deep grades flow mighty mountain streams flowing into Baikal. To realize the complexity of the construction of the railway, sandwiched between the looping cliffs and the abyss of the very deep lake in the world, just one fact is enough. At the beginning of the century, each constructed kilometer KBD had to spend the wagon of explosives. Wagon for kilometer! Builders literally looked through the impassable shores. Tunnels, recesses, bridges, embankments ... Not a single and direct port area. And around - indescribable Baikal beauty ...

The newest story The rank bakers turned out to be quite sad. With flooding of the Irkutsk reservoir and the construction of a modern dumble, the most beautiful plot steel belt of Russia - turned into a dead-end 90-kilometer branch. On the KBD there are only a few tiny villages. For the sake of maintaining the railway - it is absurd. The round-baked car saved only its unique tourist potential. The paths were strengthened, the most dangerous sites were put in order.

And now, every year there are tens of thousands curious from around the world. Someone rides on the rails, and someone walks on foot. Local rumor that because of the latter, there were limited to the maximum speed of trains. So as not to crush the crowd of tourists hiding from the heat in dark tunnels ...

The path begins from the station Station of Slyudyanka. The station is unusual, entirely built from local marble.

The only way to get from here to the settlements scattered along the round-baykali is the so-called "winding". Motanya - because it dulls there and here, from Slyudyanka to the Upper Port Baikal. Now, its role is played by a modern rail bus. The price of a ticket is symbolic. And for organized and wealthy tourists there is also a sightseeing retro train with a real steam locomotive.

Of course, I preferred to Motanya. True, and tourists turned out to be more than local residents.

The average speed of movement is 20 km / h, and patience hardly enough for a couple of hours ... Further - on foot. Let it be slow down, but at least more interesting. Looked near the neutrine telescope. She looked through the tunnels of all shapes and sizes. The state is beautiful, despite half a century half-grade. Imperial engineers were able to build, this is a fact.

Types around Wonderful, of course. Cars down to the head, soapy pictures are not conveying ...

Baikal depths are impressive. A pair of meters of bells, and Uh! - Everything falls into the bottomless blue ...

Any beasts of the sea, including quite large and cute:

All animals and birds are imprinted, which is called without going from the railway tracks. Nonpougalian they are there any!
But it's hard to get to the fish. Because of the phenomenally transparent water, it prudently goes away from anyone who sneaks to it with the fishing rod. I do not even know if something is real there without networks ...

But I. locality. Pier, platform, several residential houses and a tiny turbase under the auspices of Russian Railways, on which it is possible to spend it quite well to spend the night for several hundred rubles.

Finally extreme point Route - Port Baikal.
Pretty large settlement with a bunch of all interesting.
There is a steam through the hangar, in Listvyanka, and in the sky there is a flying boat:

And here you can make various thematic propaganda photo shoots, on the same platform.

For example, in the style of blogger-Liberast, "Rashka is bent!":

Or, in the style of the Puttail blogger, "Russia flourishes!":

The Great Trans-Siberian Highway, in the whole length of Chelyabinsk, almost did not meet serious natural obstacles to Vladivostok. Fassel went through the West Siberian lowland, the promotion of Eastern Siberia was slowed down, and finally the road went to Irkutsk. It was 1898. At the same time, the Eastern Plot of Transsib was built from Vladivostok. Thus, a southern version of the railway laying through Irkutsk, Verkhneudinsk (Ulan-Ude), read, was adopted. There was a northern version where the BAM is currently passes, but after several surveys it was rejected because of the high cost of the project and complex natural conditions. Baikal with his steep impregnable shores slowed down the pace of construction. Four project projects were developed to get around the lake. One of them - through the Tunksky ridge, the other - along the valley of the Irkut river, another one - through the Olchinskaya Plateau (now the modern plot from Irkutsk to Slyudyanka stretches here) and the fourth - the Bronobaikal region itself.
The first train was released to Baikal on November 2, 1898. A strengthened military threat in the Far East demanded the speedy construction of the site around Baikal to start over the army to the Far East.

They decided to bring the ferry crossing between Baikal and Waughs stations. In England, was ordered and built on the funds of Russia icebreaker. It was taken in parts to the village of Latvyanka, where they collected. The vessel was delivered in various ways: railway and water. By north Mariz The parts were brought to Yenisei, then to the hangar, where in the bypass of Padunsky rains (now they flooded with a fraternal reservoir) built a three-kilometer railway. In July 1897, Baikal icebreaker was laid on the water, and in the spring of next year began to run on the lake. He could take 25 cars in one flight, 200 passengers. In 1900, another icebreaker "Angara" was built, mainly for the transport of passengers.

Stages of development of the Trans-Siberian Highway
in the area of \u200b\u200bBaikal

On Baikal Ice in 1904 Station is the middle	Pier rail ferry crossing through Baikal, operating from 1900 to 1904, when the round-baikal road was not yet	The protection of the tunnel on the newly built round-baikal railway during the Russian-Japanese war

Despite the fact that the crossing worked well, she was still considered temporary, and deep in winter the connection was completely interrupted. Especially harsh was the winter of 1903-1904, then on ice between Troha and Baikal stations, a 45-kilometer path was laid, the wagons on it were transported by equestrian.

In 1898, surveys were made along the shore of Baikal. In 1902, tracing was completed and an estimate was approved for the construction of a round-baikal railway. By complexity and cost, this site did not have equal in Russia. The road went from the port of Baikal in the source of the hangars through the cooler at the western tip of the lake to the cauldly station (now the city of Babushkin grew around it). The road was conducted on the cut down rock slopes, on the shelves with slopes up to 50 meters and on the retaining walls above the lake itself, then in numerous tunnels (their 39), then at bridges and viaducts. It was very difficult to bring workers and techniques to the place of work, there were no comfortable bays for ships, in winter everything in
Mostly brought down ice. Dedicated funds lacked, and the government constantly rushing.
The builders were collected from all over Russia and even attracted Albanian and Italian workers. Of course, no safety technician was observed, the conditions were slave, worked for 14-16 hours a day, accidents often took place, up to 100 people died, but they paid more than the country as a whole. And this has mastered product sellers, inflating prices.

The most impressive and complex structures on the round-baikal road are tunnels and galleries. We experience strange sensations by entering their cool darkness; It is difficult to understand how a hundred years ago at the light of kerosene lanterns worked people, risking to be buried under the severity of rocks. Tunnels had to pierce through numerous rocks and capes. The slopes addressed to Baikal, in many places are very cool, cut into narrow, but deep valleys, sometimes almost vertically raise over the lake; Places to the lake are suitable for separate arrays that are far from the main ridges. The peculiarity of such arrays is a geological structure that differs from the structure of the main ridge. The designers decided whether to make a notch, or tunnel. The geological structure of the site created large problems for construction: a plurality of longitudinal and transverse cracks, loose-based material that has previously completed the columns, huge gaps. When winter began, the tunnels were closed with a gate and rapidly treated for heating stone and sand.

Tunnels and galleries can have a semicircular or parabolic profile. The semicircular requires less breed and masonry, besides, it is stronger than parabolic. For many structures, standard projects were initially made, but after the binding of each to the area had to actually redo the individual. Even the most accurate calculations of geologists and engineers could not predict all the collaps and protect some structures from destruction.

For example, the collapsed rocks completely destroyed one portal of three objects - birch tunnel and two galleries.
In the western plot 50 rivers and rivers, 170 pages and nasteners. Therefore, important engineering structures on the road are waterproofs: bridges, viaducts, trays. For 1902-1904 6 large viaducts are built, 18 pipes and trays, 5 large iron bridges. When holding a second path in the 1910s, as much appeared. For the movement of the first journey, local natural materials were used, and for the second, all the facilities were already made by reinforced concrete. The most interesting viaducts made of stone, they are all focused on the Maritu-Coultuk plot and look spectacularly in the bends of the Pada.

The builders at a hundred kilometer of the track collided with large technical difficulties. A rocky cape snot here, there is a small bay under it, surrounded by steep rocks. To lay the path, it was necessary to either make a 500-meter tunnel (it was necessary to refuse it), or to build a bridge, but not through the river, but above this very bay. It is small, but the depth of 28 meters did not allow to put intermediate supports. Bay width over 100 meters. The farm had impressive dimensions - almost 116 m long and 19 m height. Only the Yenisei farms were more (each 144 meters).

Delivered a farm to the place in disassembled form. Details riveted away from the main path. The iron construction weighing 630 tons rolled directly from the paths using winches and jacks to supports in early August 1904. The middle of the bridge was supported
5 Barz with pontions, finally after all the skills, having troping barges with sand bags, the bridge stood up with two supports. But by the beginning of 1914, a two-way tunnel was built around the birch bay, and the unique bridge was transported to the river a variest, flowing into Baikal from the south. Disassembly work was performed in reverse order. In winter, ice around the bulls whipped, sand from a barge was thrown and gradually raised the bridge to the desired height. Then the design was pulled by winches ashore. As will be waiting for this bridge in the future, standing 95 years, while it is unknown.
In 1905, the Krugobaquica road was accepted into continuous operation. The second paths began to build in 1911, and since 1914 the road became two-chaole. On June 30, 1956, the last transit train passed on it. On July 1, the movement of trains from Irkutsk to the lake was stopped. In all the reservoir of the Irkutskaya HPP, which flooded a part of the path from Irkutsk to Baikal; The level of the lake rose by 0.8 m. The round-baked car was a dead-end road with 87 km.

It is curious that the calculus of a kilometer from Irkutsk has been preserved. Therefore, the station Baikal is located on the 72th km of the highway, and Kultuk - at 157th. In return, the railway was laid from Irkutsk along the valley of the Olha River to the Slyudyanka Station. 3 tunnels were passed on the new site. It used the minimum turning radii, maximum slopes (up to 30). Before Baikal, the road makes 3 cool loops. This plot is the most difficult on the transussier. From the windows of passenger trains coming from Irkutsk to Baikal, the exciting panoramas of the lake opens. Especially great views in the fall: at this time the goltsy is covered with snow, and the yellow strip of the forest stretches along the shore. But the train dives into the tunnel, and after the lake opens in all its glory.
The Krugobaican road ceased to be a highway. Some stations were removed here, some stations were abolished. Now this is a unique comprehensive architectural museum. In 1982, all the way, from Cool station station to Baikal station, took under state protection. She became the place of pilgrimage of tourists from all over the world (even from New Zealand and Australia). Popular as hiking routesAnd trips to Motan - a short-term passenger train with a diesel locomotive that makes one flight in two days. It moves with a very short speed, overcoming incomplete 90 km in 5 hours. Occasionally, trains composed of steam locomotives and vintage cars are occupied by special orders. Two stations are now restored, tour bazes open; On the drive of the ball, there is a recreation complex of the head of Russian railways. To improve travel on the way, it is worth replacing everything cloth; There are places where the sleepers are completely rotted. At any time, tragedy can occur - after all, for one flight "Motanya" transports up to 200 people. It is necessary to replace the wagons in which nothing works, and at night there is no light. The coast of Baikal suffers from numerous tourists, there are no firewood at all, on the sides of the canvas here, then there are visible landers. Here in the 1980s was organized national Park, the results of which are not yet visible. Tourism comes in gravity, only a few Irkutsk firms offer small tours with rest on Baikal.

For the local population, not a lot of prospects; Drinking drunkenness, communication with the district center of Slyudyanka is difficult. People survive mainly at the expense of the lake. What will be with the road in the XXI century? All engineering structures have been perfectly preserved and preserved not yet one ten years. In the meantime, the Krug-Baikal road makes it possible to have a pleasant time on weekends, and someone is a reason to look at a hundred years ago.