In terms of the number of poetic nicknames, Mount Ushba can easily compete with the first beauties of Georgia. “The Talisman of Svaneti”, “the Queen of the Main Caucasus Range”, “the mountain that remembers the loving gaze of Tamerlane” - this is not a complete list of names from admiring admirers.
The legendary Ushba is located in the fabulously beautiful region of Georgia - Upper Svaneti. The steep granite profile, the presence of two peaks (North and South), and sliding glaciers make one of the main mountains of Svaneti impregnable. The North Peak is 4690 meters above sea level, and the South Peak is 4710 meters above sea level.
This height is by no means an obstacle for climbers; Mount Ushba does not even make it into the top ten highest in the Caucasus. Then why is the number of successful ascents to it extremely small? The rebellious beauty is very capricious. Professionals rate the difficulty of the climb on a six-point scale, as 4A (“difficult level”) and 6A (“extremely difficult level”). The northern peak is considered more favorable to conquerors of heights than the southern one. In any case, both peaks will require colossal professionalism and serious physical training from daredevils.
Climbing Mount Ushba from Russia is generally prohibited by law. However, by going to, you may well get to know the Caucasian two-horned beauty in person. It is not at all necessary to climb such difficult and life-threatening routes. You can simply settle down in a nearby Svan settlement, take advantage of their hospitality and listen to the beautiful legend about the “Mountain that brings misfortune.” This is what the locals call Ushba. In their language, "ush" means "trouble."
Legend of Ushba
Families from generation to generation pass on the story of a fearless hunter named Betkil. He easily conquered the mountains of Svaneti in search of game. Inspired by his own successes, Betkil once ventured up the Ushba. At the top he was met by the goddess of mountains and hunting - Dali. She really liked the strong and brave Svan. Dali bewitched him and left him to live with her. Over time, Betkil became homesick for his family and the beautiful bride who was waiting for him downstairs. At night, the young man secretly left Dali and returned to his village. The goddess could not forgive the refusal of a mere mortal and, by cunning, lured Betkil to the slopes of Ushba. He enthusiastically ran behind the huge tour sent by Dali, and the road behind the young man ended step by step. Realizing that there was no way back, Betkil rushed down and died, staining Ushba with scarlet blood. And although this is just a legend, and the slopes owe their color to red granite, it is very difficult to find a guide to the “Witch Mountain” among the locals.
There is another story about Ushba among climbers. It's not dramatic at all and more modern. Georgians remember how in 1903 Prince Dadeshkeliani gave the famous mountain to a climber from the Rickmers expedition. The Svans were indignant; it was not right for them to give away the beauty of their homeland to strangers. To this, the reasonable prince replied that Ushba remained in place, and it was pleasant for the woman =)).
One of the peculiarities of the mountain itself is its unusual microclimate. Weather phenomena here are absolutely not subject to general rules. While the weather in the valley is sunny and clear, Ushba can be hidden behind thick fog or clouds for days. And between the two ridges there is a jumper, which is called a “pipe” - it is always windy in this place, regardless of the general air flow.
The northern peak of the mountain was conquered only in 1888, the southern peak was taken 15 years later - in 1903. One of the most famous pioneers on Ushba was a native of Georgia, Mikhail Khergiani. Its route is still used today.
So, if you are lucky enough to go to, be sure to give yourself the joy of seeing one of the most beautiful and famous peaks in the world. You may not reach the peaks, but the experience will undoubtedly be unforgettable.
Mount Ushba, rising high above the Shkheldinsky gorge, is considered one of the most popular massifs located in the Main region. The two peaks (North and South) are separated by the Ushba lintel, nicknamed by climbers the “pipe” for the strong winds that constantly blow through it. A mountain with a legendary past is still shrouded in a cloud of grandeur and mystery to this day.
Meaning of the name
The difficulty of the terrain, the history of conquest - all this gave it a very frightening name, which translates as “sabbath of witches”. But Ushba is known by another name - the killer mountain. This name has stuck to it from ancient times to the present day. She became famous for her strict disposition and unpredictable character. It happens that the rise to the top from simply difficult work develops into a difficult struggle for life. Nevertheless, throughout the history of mountaineering and mountain sports, Mount Ushba has been attracting with its magnificence. Anyone who has seen this wonderful place at least once will not be able to forget the wonderful feeling of its enchanting appearance.
Description
The mysterious and alluring Caucasus offers a wonderful view from the slopes of Elbrus, but Mount Ushba is capricious and famous for its unstable weather. If the day is clear throughout the Caucasus and the tops of all the peaks are clearly visible, then this beauty may be shrouded in fog. In order to see it from Elbrus, you often need to wait several days. A coven of witches doesn't need popularity.
But when suddenly the mountain queen wants to appear from behind her white robes, you can enjoy a bewitching, wonderful spectacle. Almost two kilometers of pink rocks of granite and gneiss hang over emerald meadows and a glacier sparkling with diamond light. This is impossible to imagine even with a very wild imagination. You can enjoy all the views that Mount Ushba can give you only by looking at it with your own eyes.
Legend
The scarlet walls of the royal mountain became the main theme of a very wonderful story that local residents love to retell.
A hunter Betkel lived a long time ago. His marvelous appearance, youth and courageous character attracted good luck: he constantly brought back prey from the hunt. One day, a young man decided to climb the mountain of the Sabbath of Witches. All the villagers began to convince him, but nothing came of it. When Betkel approached the glacier itself, the Georgian goddess of hunting Dali appeared in front of him. She really liked this brave young man, and she did everything to make him fall in love with her.
Betkel lived a happy life with his goddess for a long time. But one day, when the clouds dissolved, he looked down and saw the familiar walls of his settlement. Feeling sad, the young man quietly ran away from Dali. In his native village, he met the most beautiful girl in Svaneti and decided to marry her. A wild aurochs came from the mountains for the wedding celebration, and the young man decided to shoot it in honor of the holiday. For a long time he ran after the tour, not thinking about where the road led.
The hunter climbed very high on the slopes of Ushba when the tour evaporated. Betkil realized that he had fallen into Dali's trap. The whole village came to the foot of the cliff where the young man had climbed. He asked the residents to perform the wedding and funeral ritual, and then fell from the cliff, turning it the color of his blood. Since then, hunters were forbidden to climb there, and Dali never appeared in front of people again.
Difficulties of the climb
Mount Ushba is also striking in its size. The height of its northern peak reaches 4690 m, the southern one - 4710 m. Both of them are covered with a thick snow cover. Despite this, more than half of the route to the 2700 m point is easy to travel by car. Of course, you will need an SUV for this. The best option would be a UAZ, which is not called an all-terrain vehicle for nothing. Its maneuverability in these places is much better than that of the famous jeeps. On a very narrow road, large foreign cars simply cannot pass.
Not everyone can conquer Mount Ushba. Climbing it is only possible for experienced rock climbers, who have already climbed the peaks of the highest difficulty category more than once. Climbers have to overcome technically difficult high mountain areas. You can hire the services of a good guide or climb on your own.
If you decide to storm these peaks, you need to know the Ushba Icefall well, because it is full of cracks. During periods suitable for ascension, they do not disappear anywhere, but become more noticeable. These are the most dangerous places, which is why the mysterious beauty received her sad nickname Ushba - the killer mountain.
Pride of Svaneti
The whole of Svaneti, a mountainous country distinguished by its free character, was presented by nature itself in the form of Ushba. In the Central Caucasus, there is no greater reason for pride and respect than climbing this mountain, inaccessible to mere mortals. This is precisely why many people value such places.
For Russian lovers of mountain peaks, who have the opportunity to see Ushba from another territory, from the north, this massif does not have such a mythical aura as for the residents of Svaneti. Nevertheless, the image of the mountain attracts the eye and at the same time frightens. The huge double-headed peak reigns as a ruler over the entire territory of the Caucasus Range. And there is no doubt that she is a queen, tall, stately and unapproachable. This is what Mount Ushba is. Georgia can safely be proud of this creation of nature.
Around the massif there are steep one and a half kilometer walls, along which there are routes of varying levels of difficulty. At the moment, about five hundred routes have been laid on Ushba.
The easiest, and now standard, route to North Ushba is the category 4a route. It passes through the Ushba plateau, through a place called the “pillow”, and then three hundred meters along a steep slope with an ice-snow surface stretches to the summit ridge. There is ice under the snow cover, and if there was a snowstorm before the ascent, there is a threat of avalanches. Along the long northern ridge there are double cornices shaped by nature at the peak of the mountain. The climb from the Ushbinsky plateau to the top takes about eight hours, and the return journey takes half as much time.
Outlaw
The famous Mount Ushba, where there are many difficult but at the same time interesting routes, a wonderful dream of many climbers, is now considered illegal. There is one very important point. It so happened that a mountain popular throughout the planet, an integral part of the history of Soviet, and nowadays Russian mountain sports, is now banned, and climbing it is considered a serious violation. Nothing can be done - at the moment the situation is such that the state border passes within the short southern spur of the Main Caucasus Range.
Ushba, Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti, Georgia
Unapproachable and capricious, majestic and proud, the true queen of the Caucasus - all these epithets refer to the majestic Mount Ushba, which has been called a legend of international mountaineering for many years. Due to unstable weather conditions and a steep profile, the peak is considered one of the most difficult to climb among the Caucasus ranges and can only be conquered by experienced climbers. In our article we will talk in detail about the height of Ushba, its double peak, the category of difficulty and climbing routes, which will allow desperate daredevils to assess their own strengths and make a decision regarding climbing the mountain.
Height and peaks of Ushba
Mount Ushba (or Uzhba) rises in the middle of the Ushba plateau, located in the Greater Caucasus mountain system at an altitude of 4000 meters. Geographically, it belongs to Samegrelo-Upper Svaneti and is located at a distance of 1.5 km from the Russian border. 10 km southeast of the peak stretches the cozy village of Mestia, from where climbs begin not only to Ushba, but to the neighboring peaks - Shkhara and Dzhangi-Tau.
Unlike the surrounding mountain ranges, Ushba has a double peak, the slopes of which end in steep 1.5-kilometer walls of red granite:
- The northern peak rises to 4690 m above sea level. It was first conquered by climber John Garford Cocklin, who climbed to the very top in 1888.
- The southern peak is 20 meters higher than the northern one. It submitted to people in 1903, when an international expedition led by Willy Rickmer-Rickmers managed to climb its slopes.
A special feature of the peak is its microclimate, which does not obey general climatic rules. Even when the weather is clear and dry in the valley, the peaks of Ushba are hidden in clouds and fog, and on the bridge between the two heads it is always windy, regardless of the general air currents. In summer, the average air temperature at altitudes above 3000 m often drops to -10... -20 °C.
Legend of Ushba
The name Ushba is translated from the Svan language as “mountain that brings troubles.” This name is often associated with the legend of the hunter Betkel, who easily conquered the massifs of Svaneti in search of game and one day decided to go to the top of Ushba. Climbing the mountain, he met the goddess of hunting Dali, who bewitched the brave guy and left him to live with her. Over time, Betkel became homesick and, under the cover of darkness, secretly returned to his village.
Not forgiving the young man for such an act, Dali again lured him to Ushba during a hunt. Chasing a mountain aurora, Betkel climbed to the top, and the road behind him collapsed and ended. When the hunter realized that there was no way back, he rushed down the cliff, staining Ushba with his scarlet blood. Although this story is just a legend, local residents believe that it is Betkel’s blood that gives the granite walls of the peak their red color. For a long time the mountain was closed to visitors, but even today not every guide decides to take climbers to its ascent routes.
History of climbing Mount Ushba
The beauty and difficulty of climbing Ushba has excited the hearts of climbers since the 19th century. After its North Peak was conquered by John Cocklin, many daredevils tried to climb up, but not all climbs were successful. From 1888 to 1936, only 10 climbers climbed the South Peak, and even fewer climbed the North Peak - only 5.
The difficulty of the climb lies in the fact that on the way there are many steep slopes, and on the northern side there is a completely vertical plane, which climbers call the “mirror of Ushba”. Among the first brave athletes, the famous Soviet climber Mikhail (Gabriel) Khergiani, who conquered the peak in 1964, was able to pass this “mirror”. Over the years, famous climbers Mikhail Anufrikov, Lev Myshlyaev, Gio Niguriani climbed the mountain.
It is worth noting that many climbs to Ushba ended tragically. In 1984, a team of 6 climbers from the Georgian Alpine Club was left under an avalanche, and in 1995, 20 meters from the exit to the ridge of the Northern Peak, 5 athletes from the Primorsky Territory team fell from the rocks. In February 2000, an ice collapse covered the camp where four Russians from Pyatigorsk and several residents of England stopped for the night. Their bodies were never found.
Climbing routes and difficulty category
Although the height of 4710 meters is not considered an obstacle for rock climbers, and the mountain itself is not among the ten highest in the Caucasus, the number of successful ascents to it is extremely small. This circumstance is explained by Ushba’s willfulness and the high category of difficulty on a 6-point scale. More favorable to climbers is the Northern Peak, whose difficulty is rated from 4A to 6A. It is more difficult to climb the South Peak, which has a level of 5A to 6A (“extremely difficult”).
There are more than five dozen routes to the top of Mount Ushba, varying in difficulty category, degree of physical activity and level of possible risk. The most popular and frequently visited are two of them:
Along the North-East ridge (4A)
The simplest route, called the classics of Soviet mountaineering. The ascent leads to the Northern Peak through the Ushbinsky Pass and icefalls of medium difficulty with many cracks. Depending on technical preparation and weather conditions, the average ascent time ranges from 8 to 16 hours. The return descent is carried out to the Ushba Pass or Ushba Pillow.
The approach to the route is only possible from Georgia, since there are no options from Russia - the border is locked, and attempts to climb Ushba are considered a crime under Russian law. In addition, in recent years there has been a strong collapse of the Ushba icefall, through which it was previously possible to get to the mountain. Therefore, today the only possible route along the route is through the village of Mestia.
Along the South Wall (5B)
A more difficult route, but the easiest of all possible climbs to the South Peak. When climbing, climbers follow the path of Mikhail Khergiani, ascending the ridge of the South-Western Buttress, passing the “mirror” of Ushba and then descending to the Gul overnight camps near the settlement of Gul. On average, round trip time takes 2 days.
The ascent along the route is technically complex and requires coordinated actions in a group, perfect discipline, as well as mastery of belay and movement skills in mountainous terrain. Before climbing, climbers are recommended to undergo an acclimatization ascent to Kazbek or Laila, which will allow them to get comfortable on ice and hone their crampon walking skills.
Some climbers also use other, more difficult paths - along the Eastern Wall, the center of the North-East Wall, the Eastern or Western Ridge, and the icefalls of the North-Western Wall. Despite the great risks and heavy physical exertion, climbing Ushba is worth the effort, because there is no more joyful moment for a climber than being at the end of a difficult path and taking in at one glance the vast expanses of the mighty Caucasus.
In contact with
Mountain Ushba ("Coven" from Georgian) is located at the very end of the Shkheldinsky gorge, on the border of Russia and Georgia. Altitude 4700 m above sea level.
The Ushba massif consists of two peaks - Northern (4690 m) and Southern (4710 m). They are connected by the Ushbinskaya lintel or “pipe”; this name was not given in vain; even in good weather it is windy there.
Ushba is considered one of the most difficult “four thousand meters” mountains in the world. The easiest route to North Ushba is 4A, to South Ushba - 5A.
On all sides, the slopes of the massif are cut off by steep 1000 - 1500 meter walls along which 10 routes of 6th category of difficulty and 13 - 5B grades are laid. Today there are approximately fifty routes on Ushba, a dozen of which are classified as category 6a, and about thirty have category 5b.
The simplest, classic route to Northern Ushba (4A) passes through the Ushba plateau through a characteristic “shoulder”, called “Pillow”, and then along a steep ice-snow “knife” for 300 meters, which rises from the “Pillow” to the summit ridge . There is ice under the snow, and if there was heavy snow in the days preceding the ascent, the danger of avalanches increases sharply. Further along the long northern ridge, framed by double cornices, exit to the top. They usually start their ascent from the Ushbinsky plateau and spend 6-8 hours to reach the top and 2-4 hours to descend.
It happened in Ancient Times, when there were Gods on Earth...
The ancient people of the Svan tribe lived at the foot of the Holy Mountains...
And Betkil was the best Hunter in all of Svaneti, Betkil was lucky and handsome. Women's hearts beat when they saw Betkil walking past with his unchanging Bow from the Iron Tree and a quiver of sharp-feathered arrows on his back...
The Most Beautiful Girl in all of Svaneti was chosen by Betkil the Hunter as his Bride; the day of the merry Wedding had already been appointed, when Betkil decided to try his luck and climb the Sacred Double-Headed Mountain Ushba, which translated into other languages from Svan meant “Mountain that brings Misfortune.”
And then the Double-Headed Mountain was not at all inaccessible, but the wise Old Men simply forbade anyone, not their own, not strangers, to go there. They considered the Double-Headed Mountain Ushba a Sacred Mountain, where mortals do not live, but Gods live...
Betkil was young, brave and dexterous. Like a snow leopard, he climbed higher and higher, but along with joy, Pride also came to him. No one has yet climbed to the Top of the inaccessible Two-Horned Mountain, only Betkil was able to set foot on the Unknown Part of the Forbidden Place.
And the Female Eyes of the Ancient Goddess of Hunting Dali looked at him from the Top....
The Goddess Betkila noticed it a long time ago. I knew him from the wild, untrodden paths, where I often noticed him and sometimes helped him in the Hunt.
And this time, from the very Foot of Her Two-Horned Mountain, She was watching the brave Hunter; at any moment she could throw him, like others before him, from a steep slope straight into a deep gorge. But the Goddess admired the beauty of a mere mortal, and suddenly, without even expecting it, she cast a Spell...
And Time stopped at the Top of the Double-Headed Mountain... And the amazed young man saw the Beauty of the Goddess... He bowed his knee, knowing who She was... And bowed his head in anticipation of Punishment... The old people said, “You cannot desecrate this Holy thing with the traces of mere mortals Place", but Betkil did not listen to them, and now Dali Herself stands before him in the Radiance of the Night Moon... But how beautiful is the Forever Young Goddess! You can die to see what mere mortals cannot see...
The Goddess glided towards him with a Soft Shadow... And on his skin he felt the rustle of the weightless fabrics of Her wonderful clothes... And he heard laughter like a crystal bell, and when cool and gentle hands touched his hair, and he felt the taste of wild strawberries in his mouth, then Betkil decided to open his eyes and the Radiance of Beauty exploded in front of him with bright flashes...
Near a beautiful Stream Betkil and Dali set up their Shelter for Hot Love Games... Neither noticed anything, but Time stopped and from the Dark Sky with many bright stars the unchanging Moon shone for them, without being replaced by the Sun...
But then one day Betkil walked away from the sleeping Dali. He stood, satisfied with Fate, on the Edge of the Top and suddenly saw the warmly flickering lights of his home. And suddenly Betkil became cold, and in vain the young man wrapped himself in his cloak, nothing helped. But Betkil remembered the Sun, remembered the warmth of the hearth, remembered the faces of Relatives, Friends and the smile of his Bride. And Betkil was ashamed that he had not kept His Word. The young man decisively approached the edge and began to go down. He didn’t even glance at where the Eternally Young Goddess Dali was sleeping in a serene sleep.
And for all the people there was no Betkil for only one Night... No one noticed the absence of the Hunter... Everyone was preparing for a Magnificent Wedding and Unbridled Fun...
And high on the Top of the Double-Headed Mountain the abandoned Goddess Dali was beating in tears and lamentations... Again and again she looked at the Wedding Feast in the distance and tears dripped into the Stream, where recently she washed the Muscular Body of her Betkil..
The Svans raised their Horns, filled to the brim with Wine. The musicians beat the drums. Unmarried Girls were spinning in a leisurely, proud dance. The tables were laden with many dishes. We wished the young Bride and Groom happy days.
Betkil was dizzy from the intoxicating drink, and memories of Dali completely left him and only somewhere in the very depths of his heart a barely noticeable fear stirred. And he poured himself more and more Betkil, trying to drown out his Bad Feeling... And getting drunk, Betkil laughed and talked about what a Great Hunter he was...
The old men looked at him disapprovingly, but could not object, because no one could get as much game as the Young Lucky Hunter brought... As if the Goddess of Hunting Dali herself favored him...
And suddenly, unexpectedly for everyone, right at the edge of the mountain forest, a Black Tour of unprecedented size appeared... Its Powerful Horns glowed golden against the backdrop of the Setting Sun...
And the men jumped up, ran home for their bows and slings, everyone wanted to get such a trophy and become famous among others. But Betkil was the first to lose his head. Armed men were just running out of the houses, and Betkil was already flying like the wind in pursuit of the Huge Black Tur with Golden Horns.
And suddenly all the other men stood rooted to the ground. With excitement they saw how far in the mountains, barely visible how far, Betkil was climbing the Forbidden and Holy Mountain, climbing behind the Black Tur, and behind his heels the stones were torn off and the Mountain became an impregnable Wall, where it was impossible to climb and it was impossible to descend.
All the people shouted in vain, trying to warn Betkil about the Trouble, the Young Hunter did not hear them... He came to his senses only at the already familiar Top, when the Black Tour melted into the air... Betkil looked around helplessly, and saw that there was a sheer wall behind him, along which there is no turning back ever.
Betkil understood everything then. He turned his face to the Top, sighed sadly and said, curling his lips: “Rejoice, Dali. Your Charms are still working.”...
And after the words he turned back over his shoulder and looked with longing at the Towers of the Ancestral House in the distance below... And then She came out from behind one of the Horns... And Triumph sparkled on her Cold Face... Simple things won’t go anywhere mortal... He didn’t want to serve on an equal footing - such is the lot of a mere mortal before the Gods...
And the Young Hunter approached the edge of the Great Abyss on the Edge... He put his hands into a mouthpiece and shouted so that it could be heard down there:
Can you hear me, my Bride?!...
And the answer came: “I hear you, My Beloved Betkal!”
Dance the Bride's Dance for me, My Beloved!!!
Goddess Dali watched with fascination the graceful dance of a mere mortal...
Do you hear, My Sister?! - Betkal shouted again.
Yes bro! - came from the Abyss Below...
Show me, Dear, how you will mourn your Brother!!!
And the Sister began to cry, feeling unkind...
Do you hear me, Your Son, Svan People?! - Betkal asked, and Pride was heard in his voice...
And all the people shouted: “Yes, we hear you, Betkal!”
Know, My People, that a Glorious Death is better than the Life of a Slave! - and the Glorious Hunter Betkal turned to the Pale Goddess Dali and with the smile of the Winner looked into Her amazed Face and proudly thrusting his chest forward, stepped into the Abyss...
The cry of the people when this happened was terrible... The cry of the Goddess Dali was terrible... She tried to catch the Young Hunter, but even the Gods were not able to Fly as fast as mere mortal Betkal flew that day. And He became Immortal on that Day for Centuries and Millennia.
The Svan People still honor Proud Betkal. Until now, the Old People forbid anyone, neither their own nor strangers, to climb the Two-horned Mountain Ushba... For this is a Holy Place... And mere mortals cannot understand this...
