...or one day in the city that gave the name to the country .
Despite the fact that I left the story about the northern capital of Portugal, the city of Porto, for the end, visiting this beautiful city was the very middle of our " Grand Portuguese Motor Race ". And I left it for a snack because Porto is so cool that it needs to be taken out to a separate "hall of fame" and placed on a special shelf. If you have enough time and you can afford two weeks to get to know Portugal, you you are free to choose the place for this city, but if you have only one day to snatch a piece of Portugal, then you should choose Porto. Estrela, you can not even see Sintra, Evora and Coimbra, but you can not ignore Porto!Porto is one of the most interesting and remarkable cities in Portugal, as well as the second city in the country in terms of population.Moreover, it was Porto that gave the name not only to the whole country, but also the famous fortified wine Port wine.

Porto is one of the oldest cities in Europe, the former capital of the country and the current capital of port wine. It is also a lively industrial center, the historical part of which, constantly inhabited since at least the 4th century, received UNESCO World Heritage status in 1996. Unlike other large cities in the country, the center of Porto is not so much baroque as granite and monumental. The history of Porto dates back to around 300 BC. e. with proto-Celtic and Celtic people being the first known inhabitants. Ruins from this period have been found in several areas. There was also a Gallec settlement in the area of ​​present-day Porto. The Roman general Decimus Junius Brutus Callaic conquered the city around 136 BC.
The Romans named the city Portus Cale, that is Beautiful port. This name was later transformed into Portucale, which later gave the name to the whole country - Portugal.
In Porto, we drove from the Busacu Palace, about the night in which I am. Due to the dense fog, we did not spend time on the top of Cruz Alto and were in Porto early in the morning. As a result, it took us exactly a day to get to the city, which was enough, and a little bit short. Considering almost a week on Portuguese soil, we have already absorbed the local flavor enough, and therefore we did not waste our time on stupidly sitting on the embankment, but immediately began to get to know the city better.

When we flew into the suburbs of Porto at a speed of 165 km / h, the clouds were just rising and the ocean was noticeably fresh. Having crossed the Douro River, in the valley of which grapes are grown for the famous port wine, we turned to the center and immediately stumbled upon cars standing along the cliff. Free parking 10 minutes from the center. We should stop to contemplate the bridges.

And we left the car five minutes from Ponte Luis. Looking ahead, I’ll say that we never overtook it, because in the center where we lived with parking it’s quite sad, and the subway for 25 euros seemed a little expensive. So the machine spent the night on the embankment between the bridges.

And here it is the real Porto with its own flavor, which is not found in any city in Portugal.

The inhabitants of Porto were called and continue to be called "tripeiros" - "offal eaters". Soup made from it is still the signature delicacy of the city. At the same time, the citizens in the cultural sense keep themselves apart from the rest of Portugal, and here you can often hear the phrase: "Porto is a nation."

On the opposite side of the river, there is a monastery and, as it were, another city - Vila Nova de Gaia, although it is perceived as a district, part of Porto.

It is from Vila Nova de Gaia that you need to start your acquaintance with Porto. It is better to start from the embankment. Then go up to the observation deck and enjoy the views of the city, which is already more than 2300 years old. We cross over to the other side across the Luis 1st Bridge.

Somewhere there, almost half a kilometer away, we threw our "penny" and heavy things.

As you move along the bridge, the city begins to open up from new angles. Porto is great!

For seven centuries, until 1956, wine was transported to Vila ova de Gaia on picturesque flat-bottomed sailboats called "barcos rabelos". Now it is done by rail. But the barkosh rabeloche boats are still a symbol of the city.

Lots and lots of barkos rabelos on the waterfront of Porto. I deliberately do not say Villa Nova de Gaja, because this is a formality, in fact it is a single city, united with suburbs in a large municipality with a population exceeding the number of inhabitants of modern Latvia. 2400 000 inhabitants! Therefore, I insist that Villa Nova de Gaia is a district of Porto, the promenade opposite the center.

I will tell about the port itself, its production and other things in the next publication, today we are walking.

Countless cellars stretch along the embankment, where port wine of all famous and most unknown brands is stored. You can go to the cellars like a museum, gawk at the stacks of barrels.

Barrels on the barkosh rabeloche props for the entourage. Every self-respecting house of port wine must have a couple of boats with barrels at the pier. Otherwise somehow not solid. There are also utilitarian walking trails.

I reached the very end of the embankment to the distant cellars. In appearance, these are typical warehouse hangars of prehistoric times.

The very beauty beyond the river is the center of Porto, the Ribeira region, where the tripeiros live. From them came the name of the region. Tripeiros - offal eaters. It just so happened that the hardworking fishermen were always poor, and after selling the fish, they got only fish offal. Now this is no longer a fishing area, and you will not find boats with nets here, but it is colorful to the point of impossibility.

The photo below shows an old tram that is 80 years old and has number one. No others. It goes all the way to the ocean, the trip costs 4 euros. Inside is wooden, with two cabins.

Inesa went to the observation deck by funicular, I went on foot, it was important for me to capture what I admired in the appearance of the old city.

It took me a good half an hour to get up to the monastery on the platform. Steep streets are skillfully hidden from strangers, without a navigator on my phone, I would not have found the way up.

But the rise is still far away. While admiring the views of Porto.

The city has a special aura. Porto is charming, cozy and compact. You don't need public transport. Throw the car behind the bridges and forward on foot.

Pay attention to the Ponte Luis bridge, it is two-tiered. At the bottom are cars and people, at the top are trains before and the subway now. Although the subway looks more like a fat tram, it does not change the essence. And under the bridge dozens of barkosh rabelos.

Look at the colored houses with two windows in the first row on the embankment. Isn't that lovely.

We will go out to the coast of that side in the late afternoon.

The tiered buildings are incredibly picturesque and photogenic. Especially from afar. I put on Zuiko 40-150 so as not to twist the pancake to the maximum.

In the photo below we see several sights of Porto at once. This is the bell tower of the Clerigos church, the highest in Portugal, and which served as a lighthouse and a guide for sailors in the last century, this is the Cathedral, and the episcopal palace-residence. (white building)

Look at the upper row of windows in the episcopal palace. We will return to the middle window later.

How long, how short, but I return to the bridge to begin my ascent to the observation deck. This bridge is not easy. Don Luis Bridge (Ponte de Dom Luis). The bridge over the Douro River is one of the symbols of Porto. The lower tier of the bridge is automobile, on the upper tier there is a metro along the middle part, pedestrians along the edges. The metro runs quite infrequently, so pedestrians can easily cross from one side of the bridge to the other - they have different views. That's what I did, by the way.

The 385 m long bridge connects Porto and its southern suburb, Vila Nova de Gaia. The height of the bridge is 44 m. By design, this is a metal arch bridge, the longest bridge of this type in the world. It was built from 1881 to 1886 according to the design of Theophil Seyrig, partner and student of Gustave Eiffel. They say that Eiffel himself made some amendments to the finished project, which won the construction competition due to its cheapness and began to bear the name of King Luis the First.

Poor area of ​​Porto.

Well, where is mine, Neska? The funicular is clueless. 300 meters of pleasure, although saving energy.

From the top, Porto is even more beautiful.

A couple of kilometers, around the turn of the river, in its delta, you can meet dolphins. After all, the ocean already begins there and they swim into fresh water to hunt for fish.

In principle, here is the whole of Porto that interests us. It is not so huge and two days in the city is enough.

Here is the same metro, a double car going along the Don Luis Bridge, although it is also called the Eiffel Bridge.

It is very difficult to get a non-photographer to take a picture of you the way you want.

Cellar roofs.

The bridge is all steel, booming.

We walk there, we walk back. There along the lower tier, back along the top. The bridge is a must. Indeed, at its very end and beginning, there is an observation deck with a beautiful view of the city.

Go ahead.

After an hour or more, we finally enter the historic area of ​​Ribeira.

From the Douro embankment (Ribeira station, almost under the don Luis bridge), you can climb the rock in a couple of minutes and € 2.50. The top station of Batalha is 300 m from the train station and São Bento metro station, at the same height. The funicular serves as a tourist attraction, but if you don’t mind the money, this is a pretty good way to save time and effort if you need to climb from the river to the level of the upper tier of the bridge. In my opinion it's boring, and nowhere in fact.

Hiking trails are much more scenic. During our time, no one used the funicular, and we did not see it at all.

Not the richest Portuguese live under the bridge.

Yellow house, one window wide, for rent or sale.

In the upper left corner of the picture you can see the platform from which we are going.

Silent question.

Below you can already see the famous Sao Bento station.

But we look at everything in order. And first, along the way, we have a Romanesque cathedral and views from its entrance.

Our next stop was the bell tower of Clerigos. Here in the cathedral you can buy a single ticket for three locations. Cathedral and Museum, Clerigos Tower, and Episcopal Palace with a guided tour. There is no free entrance to it, you need to score time and go with a guide.

Cathedral first. Cathedral, was rebuilt from an old fortress in the XII-XVIII centuries,

The entrance to the cathedral is free.

The Romanesque Cathedral, one of the oldest and one of the most notable buildings in Porto, was built from the beginning of the 12th to the 13th century. The facade of the cathedral consists of two square towers with unusual domes (made in 1772), between which there is a Romanesque rose window. The entrance portal was built in the same 1772 in the Baroque style. The nave and Romanesque columns have been preserved in the interior, but almost all the interior decoration is Baroque. An originally Gothic cloister was added to the south of the cathedral.

The history of Porto goes back to the Roman Portocale, which existed in the 5th century, but there were settlements on this site much earlier. At the beginning of the 8th century, the Moors captured and destroyed it, and at the end of the 10th century, these lands were liberated by Prince Henry of Burgundy. By his order, the construction of the cathedral began here in 982. In 1147 the Bishop of Porto, Dom Hugo, organized the English, German and flagship crusaders on a naval campaign against Lisbon. They helped Afonso Henriques free the future capital of Portugal from the Moors. In the era of geographical discoveries, Portugal becomes the most important maritime and trading power in Europe, and Porto - its main port and shipbuilding center.

Since its founding, Porto has been a freedom-loving, independent city. There were often riots and uprisings, and even the Inquisition did not have much power in Porto. In 1757, the inhabitants rebelled against the wine monopoly introduced by the Marquis of Pombal (for the restoration of Lisbon after the earthquake). In 1832, Porto was the center of the House of Miguel struggle for power, and in 1878 the first republican elections were held here.

We liked the cathedral. Something between a fortress, a monastery and a palace. It's worth its three euros.

I'm a little hung up on this picture. What's on the plate? I see a dog here. Explain how-here and what?

And of course, azulezhu whole walls.

And in such chests of drawers with many drawers, the holy ones put bills.

This is how the observation deck at the entrance to the cathedral looks like, and on the right is the entrance to the episcopal palace, but our tour is in a couple of hours, so we are going to have lunch at the Clerigos bell tower, and I will tell you about the palace in general in the next publication.

Seagulls here are unusually impudent.

For a meal, we chose a small cafe with a hostess cook who did not speak English but fed us tasty and not expensive.

Cathedral from below.

And Porto from above. Right below me is the same cafe.

And then we wandered to the church of Clerigos along the streets of Ribeira.

Personally, I love these places. A real non-tourist Porto with locals, its rhythm and lack of glamour.

There is life in the narrow streets.

That's where we go from the cathedral. You can just wander around the landmarks without a navigator.

While dodging, we came across the "observation deck" mentioned somewhere on the net. Coincidentally, I immediately thought of her. A place of informals, apparently.

It's not very clean, but bearable during the day.

From here you can clearly see the area of ​​Villa nova de Gaia.

But the best view, for my taste, towards the Episcopal Palace and the Don Luis-Eiffel Bridge.

Tyts tyts, alcohol, vodka, cigarettes?

Yes, we were here, we drank Sandeman, we ate offal, and in general we fell in love with Porto.

Some kind of purple street ....

We have almost reached Clerigos.

Here begins a more modern area, wide streets, cars, trams, banks and offices.

But the unique atmosphere of Porto is still preserved here.

And here it is Torre dos Clerigos.

The church itself is decorated inside with multi-colored marble, no external paints. This is the Catholic Church of Clerigos (Clerigos) with the bell tower (Torre dos Clerigos), which is the highest in Portugal (76 meters) and the symbol of Porto. For a long time it was a reference point for sailors. We're going upstairs.

To the tower, the bell tower you need to walk along a very narrow staircase. Two people can't separate. With a backpack in general an ambush. Created a couple of gaps. But on the turns a little wider and pressed into the wall, they let those going down.

The tower has two levels. That is, there is higher and lower. Several tourists were very surprised when we emerged from the wall, descending from the top and immediately rushed up.

Otsbda Porto is all at a glance. In principle, there are enough views from here, and apart from the site on the other side of the river, you don’t need to look for anything else.

Orange tiles, colored houses, colorful and bright.

Some houses are very tiny and squeezed into some cracks.

Here is almost the entire Ribeira in one frame.

This is the eastern part of the city.

This is the north...

Suddenly you didn't believe that we climbed 70 meters on the old stone steps. So here's your proof. In the next part, evening Porto, the promenade, and port wine, of course.

“What is the most important thing in traveling?

See, understand, enjoy, love!

Colors, shapes, aromas, tastes add up

into vivid pictures in memory, so that later we

could look at them all my life"

About the country, its history and people

Portugal is one of the oldest countries in Europe with a rich history. Portugal is a charming country that can be called a quiet European province, where virgin nature serenely coexists with a developed tourist infrastructure, and respect for national customs coexists peacefully with pan-European traditions.

The country of great navigators Portugal is located in the western part of the Iberian Peninsula. In the south and west it is washed by the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, on land it borders on Spain. Portugal includes the Azores, located in the Atlantic Ocean about 1,450 km west of Lisbon, and the island of Madeira, 970 km southwest of Lisbon, which are autonomous regions of Portugal. The area of ​​the country, together with the islands, is 92.39 thousand square meters. km.

The name of the country comes from the name of the Roman settlement of Portus Cale at the mouth of the Douro River. In 1139, Portugal became an independent kingdom from Spain. At that time, it occupied only the northern third of its modern territory. In 1249, the last Muslim ruler in the south of the country was expelled, and since then its borders have changed little. The era of conquest began in the 15th century, when Portuguese maritime explorers such as Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan traveled around the world, making great geographical discoveries. By the 16th century, the territories they discovered formed a huge empire that stretched from the coast of Brazil to Africa and Asia. It was during this era that the economy of Portugal reached its greatest prosperity.

In 1910, the monarchy was overthrown in Portugal, and in 1974 a democratically-minded military junta put an end to the dictatorial regime that had existed since 1926. Portugal is one of the few countries in Europe that was not occupied by Nazi troops during World War II.

The constitution adopted in 1976 declared Portugal a parliamentary republic with direct elections and universal adult suffrage.

By handing over the last of its overseas territories, Macau, Macau, which it had held since 1680, to Chinese rule in 1999, Portugal ended a long and sometimes turbulent colonial era in its history.

The events of Portuguese history had a huge impact on the culture of the country and introduced the features of Moorish and Oriental styles into architecture and art. Traditional folk dances and tunes, especially lyrical fado, do not lose their significance to this day, which can be seen and heard right on the streets. According to one version, the name fado comes from the Latin word fatum, which means fate. The melodies of the songs harmoniously combine Moorish, African and Brazilian melodies, the theme of loneliness, longing and foreboding of a sad fate runs through all the songs, but this does not mean that this type of music is suitable only for melancholics. The ability to sing of sadness, to turn it into an object of admiration is one of the national traits of the Portuguese, and it is not without reason that for several centuries almost every family in this country has been waiting for sons and husbands who set off to conquer the sea, and the journey could end in the most unpredictable way.

The population of the country is mono-ethnic, 99% of the 10.8 million population are Portuguese. Many peoples have settled on the Iberian Peninsula for a long time. The most ancient inhabitants - the Iberians - were undersized and swarthy. Over the centuries, the appearance of the Portuguese was formed under the influence of the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, as well as Germanic tribes (Visigoths and Alemanni).

Portugal is a monolingual country. The official language is Portuguese. It is spoken by more than 200 million people worldwide on three continents: Eurasia, Africa and South America. This language has similarities with Spanish, since both belong to the Ibero-Romance subgroup of the Romance group of languages, however, with a similar grammatical structure, there are significant differences in pronunciation between them. The formation of the language was greatly influenced by the Germanic tribes and the Arabs (Moors), from whom the Portuguese language borrowed many words, as well as the contacts of travelers, discoverers and merchants with Asian peoples.

National features: Do not question the historical greatness of the country - the Portuguese are proud of their past, especially against the backdrop of the modest place that the country occupies today. The Portuguese are very painful to compare them with the Spaniards, despite the similarity of languages, characters and national cultures. Bullfighting is also popular here, but, unlike the Spanish bullfight, where the bull is killed, in Portuguese the animal is pacified by a team of unarmed fighters (forkados).

In this country, the percentage of the rural population is one of the highest in Western Europe, many foreigners work in its factories, construction sites and fields, including from Ukraine. Average annual income per capita: 22,500 USD (data from the World Bank, 2011). Average life expectancy is approaching 80 years. As in other countries, women in Portugal live longer, almost 82 years, while men still do not reach 76. The retirement age is 65 years, and the actual retirement age is 61-62 years.

Portugal is a country of great sea voyages, grandiose geographical discoveries and tart port wine. Mild climate, fresh forest and meadow aromas, light ocean breeze and the vast expanses of the Atlantic, unique architecture in the Manueline style and strong coffee… All this deserves to get to know this interesting country better.

Wgetting to know Porto

They say about the cities of Portugal: they pray in Braga, they work in Porto, they party in Lisbon. My acquaintance with Portugal began from Porto. Porto, the second most populated city in Portugal with a population of 240 thousand inhabitants, gave its name not only to port wine, but to the whole country. The historical center of Porto is located on the right bank of the Douro River, a few kilometers from its confluence with the Atlantic Ocean. The city center has been declared a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

Porto is well known for its entrepreneurial spirit, distinctive culture and local cuisine. The city is often referred to as the northern capital of Portugal. Porto is home to the largest university in Portugal (about 29,000 students).

One of the most striking sights of Porto is the Clerigos Tower - the highest in Portugal - 76 meters or 225 steps. The baroque church was built for the brotherhood of clerics ("Clerigos") by the architect Nicola Nasoni according to the Roman scheme. Its construction began in 1732 and ended in 1750 with the construction of a monumental staircase. July 28, 1748, despite the fact that the building was not yet fully completed, the church was opened for worship. Torre dos Clerigos has become the symbol of the city of Porto. It has been a National Monument since 1910.

The city is famous for the production of different brands of port wine. We visit one of the ancient "port wine houses" - Galem, get acquainted with the history and features of the production of this popular drink. And, of course, we taste some varieties, and whoever wants to buy the wines they like. Having warmed up our appetite with the wines we are tasting, we begin our acquaintance with Portuguese cuisine in one of the restaurants, where we enjoy eating the national fish dish called “bacalau”.

Having refreshed ourselves with “bacalau” and tasting port wines, we walked with pleasure along the embankment of the Douro River, where such pretty boats float.

Four bridges are thrown across the Douro River, connecting the historical part of the city with Vila Nova de Gaia, a small neighboring town where the world-famous port wine is stored. One of the bridges (by Louis the First) was built according to the design of Gustave Eiffel: a two-tier structure of impressive size seems openwork and light.

On the highest point of the old city, the Se Cathedral was built. Erected in the 12th century on a granite rock, it originally served as a fortress. Later it was rebuilt, but it has retained its severe appearance to this day. Inside the cathedral is not very interesting. Decor lovers will be impressed by the luxurious silver altar, the construction of which took 800 kg of silver, and the patio, lined with the famous Portuguese azulejo tiles.

Cathedral Square offers a beautiful view of the city.

From the cathedral to the river, the descent goes through the poorest district of Porto. The area of ​​luxurious villas is located near the ocean. You can get here on the current tram-museum, which has not changed since 1930. It's called the Electric Machine Museum. However, each of Porto's trams can serve as an exhibit: inside the vehicle is upholstered in wood, the driver drives it while standing, for the simple reason that there is no seat for it. When the tram reaches the end point of the route, the driver moves from the head to the tail, where there is also a cab, and drives his car in a “reverse course”: the rails in Porto end in a dead end. The most scenic route runs along the ocean. From the windows of noisy and old trams you can see fashionable villas, chosen by wealthy people from all over Europe.

Porto, like other Portuguese cities, is distinguished not only by its peculiar architecture, but also by the fact that many houses are lined with multi-colored tiles.

From the early Middle Ages to the 17th century, there was a law that forbade the aristocracy not only to build, but also to stay in the city for more than three days. Even the king did not have his residence in Porto. He stayed at the Bishop's Palace built by Nicolo Nazzoni. It is a masterpiece of 18th century Portuguese Baroque architecture. The port city is located all on the hills, it has many funny houses and streets.

It was also interesting to visit the store and a kind of book museum Livraria Lell - the oldest in Portugal and one of the most incredibly beautiful bookstores in the world. Unusual, simply fabulous interior, which is located on two floors of the store. Spectacular and massive decoration of the walls, ceiling, everything is made of noble wood using original and unusual carvings, combined with the surprisingly curved lines of the red staircase that leads to the second floor. No less impressive is the magnificent ceiling made of expensive stained glass. The bookstore is located five minutes walk from the city center.

This pretty fountain caught our attention.

It is impossible not to mention the visit to Sao Bento train station. In addition to its direct destination, Sao Bento Station is interesting for its wall-paintings, lined with azulejos tiles in white and blue tones. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. This panel completely occupies one of its walls. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways, as well as important moments in the history of Portugal.

When leaving Porto, behind the fortress walls, my first meeting with the Atlantic Ocean took place. I go knee-deep into the ocean, the water is quite cool, but you can still take a dip.

Two days in Lisbon

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and the country's largest city. 570 thousand people live in it. It is located on the right bank of the Tagus River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Its history goes back about 20 centuries. Lisbon was built on seven hills, like Rome and Moscow. Just like Moscow, Lisbon is patronized by George the Victorious. The city became the capital of the state in 1147 after the liberation from Arab colonization. Lisbon owes this to the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriquez. The main city of the country was founded by the Phoenicians as a stop at the crossroads of sea routes and named Alis Ubbo - a blessed bay. The city was under the control of the Roman Empire, the Moors, the Spaniards.

We begin our acquaintance with the center of Lisbon - one of the main attractions. In the 18th century, bullfights and public executions took place here. We visit the park of Edward VII and the monument to the Marquis de Pombal. This is a large green meadow with neatly trimmed bushes of the correct geometric shape.

Lisbon is a modern European city located on 15 hills. Walking on it you have to constantly go up and down from the hills. We climb one of the hills, where with the help of a guide we get acquainted with the Moorish fortress of Sant Jorge. Once upon a time, Portuguese kings lived here, and now only a shell with pine groves inside is left of the castle. But this is the highest point of Lisbon and the views from here are appropriate. From the fortress walls you can see a strange structure - openwork frames of arches sticking into the sky. In order to capture the views of the Tagus River and the ancient Alfama district of Lisbon, we walked along the esplanade and climbed the ramparts of the old fortress. The fortress of San Jorge (St. George) has been a fortification covering the mouth of the Tagus River since ancient times. In 1147, King Alphonse Enriques converted the fortress into a royal residence. In 1511, King Manuel I built himself a palace outside the fortress, and here he placed an armory and a prison. During the earthquake of 1755, the fortress was very badly damaged, and only in 1938, under Salazar, the ruins were restored, and only a few details remained, reminiscent of the original Moorish Alcasava, later the royal residence, where Vasco da Gama pompously celebrated the success of his trip to India. The fortress walls have been restored and now you can walk along them around the old quarter of Santa Cruz. Various exhibitions are arranged in the fortress towers, telling about the history of the fortress and the whole city. The viewpoints offer a magnificent view of Lisbon.

Picturesque streets with houses covered with painted tiles scatter from the fortress in different directions. Benches are carefully placed in the middle of each lift. Most of the streets lead to Alfama - the oldest quarter of Lisbon, which, being built on rocky ground, survived the earthquake without much damage. Here once was the center of the Roman city, and later - the center of the Moorish city. Jews also lived in Alfama until their expulsion in the 16th century. There is nothing reminiscent of the capital city: Alfama is more like a fishing village, where housewives clean fish right on the street and scribble on antediluvian sewing machines, and ropes with linen are tied to orange trees growing right on the steps. Going for a walk in Alfama, tune in to the fact that, most likely, you will get lost - this intricacies of streets practically defies logic.

We go down from the castle on a retro tram running along route No. 28, which resembles the transport of the beginning of the last century, and go on a tour of the city center. We pay tribute to how our tram famously climbs the hills and rushes along the narrow winding streets with a frightening rattle. At one of the moments of the trip, we easily reach the wall of a neighboring house with our hands.

We get off at the bus stop and before us opens an amazing view of the capital. In Lisbon, such observation terraces are called miradores. We found ourselves on the best of them - Miradouro de Santa Luzia. We approach the fence and freeze in admiration. No wonder Lisbon is called the “White City”: in front of us is a whole block of like toy, sun-drenched snow-white houses with orange tiled roofs.

There are many interesting buildings of unusual architecture in the city.

We descend to Commerce Square, which is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Portugal. Here, before the earthquake, there was a royal palace built in 1511 by Manuel I. In its center, on a high plinth, rises an equestrian statue of the reformer king José I, whose minister was the Marquis de Pombal. The majestic Arc de Triomphe, decorated with bas-reliefs and statues of famous people, connecting the square with Augusta Street, was completed in the 19th century. Then the square got its present name "Commerce Square" due to its proximity to the port, which is the main source of trade in the city. From here you have a magnificent view of the Tagus River, to which you can go down the stairs. Two square towers rise from the south side of the square, and buildings of ministries and banks frame the square on three sides.

The next point of our trip is the Belem area. Where the Tagus flows into the ocean, stands the Belem (that is, Bethlehem) watchtower, and a little closer to land rises the monastery of Jeronimos - an excellent example of the main national style - Manueline, that is, Gothic mixed with Arabic script, sea knots and astrolabes. Two world-famous Portuguese are also buried here - Vasco da Gama (who set off from the Belem Tower, setting off in search of an alternative route to India) and Luis Camões. True, only one tomb remained of Camões, the poet himself died of the plague and was buried in some kind of lost common grave.

Nearby is the coffee shop Casa dos Pastéis de Belém, where they make the best sweets in the city, and perhaps in the country.

Next to the monastery is the Bethlehem Tower (Torre de Belen), built in the 16th century, the symbol of Lisbon. This is one of the best examples of the Manueline style, the tower is under the protection of UNESCO. It is decorated with lanterns, openwork Venetian balconies, stone carvings, a statue of the Madonna of the Navigators under a huge canopy and a sculpture of a rhinoceros. From the inside, the tower looks quite gloomy - there used to be a prison here. The quadrangular Belen Tower is known as a monument to the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The tower, built in 1515-1520 and designed in the Manueline style, is a classic symbol of all of Portugal. This tower was erected in honor of the glorious military and maritime past of Portugal and rises on the spot where caravels once set off to distant lands.

Not far from the Tower on the embankment of the Tagus River in the direction of the April 25 Bridge is the Monument to the Navigators.

What is Lisbon remembered for, in addition to its historical sights? First of all, original architecture that combines different styles. We fell in love with its squares and streets, lined with tiles of various configurations and colors. His numerous souvenir shops with all kinds of colored tiles and products from it did not leave indifferent. The city also has one of the largest oceanariums. With pleasure we rode along the famous tram route No. 28 along its steep streets and with no less pleasure - under the ground on the metro in modern cozy carriages, admired the original interior of its stations.

It's time to say goodbye to hospitable Lisbon. We cross one of the longest bridges in Europe. 45 months after the start of work (half a year ahead of schedule), on August 6, 1966, a solemn opening ceremony took place in the presence of the highest officials of the state. The structure was named "Salazar Bridge" in honor of the then dictator of Portugal. Shortly after the Carnation Revolution, the bridge was renamed in honor of the day when this event took place - the April 25 Bridge.

Royal Sintra

In the morning we leave Lisbon and head to Sintra. At 27 km from Lisbon, at the foot of the low coastal mountains of Sierra da Sintra, there is a small town of Sintra, which since 1995 has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Portuguese themselves consider it the main attraction of the country, the pearl of Portugal. Back in the 8th century, the Moors appreciated the defensive significance of this place and built a fortress here. In 1147, Afonso I Henriques drove out the Arabs and for the next 600 years the city was the summer residence of the Portuguese kings.

Among the luxurious parks, centuries-old forests, bewitching landscapes, palaces, castles, monasteries that amaze the imagination rise on the hills.

In the city itself, the National Palace of Sintra is located, and in the adjacent mountainous and forested area on a hill - the Palacio da Pena Palace and the dilapidated Castle of the Moors.

Near the station there is a beautiful city hall.

Before climbing the mountain to the Palacio da Pena Palace, we walk with pleasure in the urban part of Sintra, built up with old mansions. The streets wind whimsically and often end with steep stairs, steps lead to observation terraces, which offer stunning views of the mountains and the ocean. The urban landscape abounds with green forests, exotic flowers and exquisite palaces.

In the city you can find many castles and palaces that have been preserved in their originality. These castles contain an important historical and artistic collection, which attracts Portuguese and foreign artists to the city. Interesting and original are not only castles and palaces, but also houses in this fabulous city.

The proximity of the ocean and the mountain ranges provide humid, cool and slightly windy weather, which is great for relaxing even in very hot summers. That is why, already in the 15th century, the fabulous castle of Palacio da Pena became the summer residence of the royal family of Portugal, which, together with its luxurious park, crowns one of the highest hills of Sintra. Located 450 meters above the city of Sintra, it is one of the most significant examples of Portuguese architecture of the Romantic period. Rising on a rocky hill, it surprisingly harmonizes with the surrounding landscapes, combining lush vegetation and rocky cliffs.

The palace was founded in 1839, when the husband of the Portuguese Queen Maria II, Ferdinand II of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (1816-1885), acquired the ruins of the Jerome Monastery and began to rebuild them according to his romantic taste in order to create a summer residence here. In order to realize his fantasies, Ferdinando II turned to a German friend, Baron Eschwege, for help and appointed him the construction manager. And since in the 19th century, romantically minded architects no longer hesitated to mix different styles, the castle, like a three-dimensional puzzle, was assembled from German and Portuguese towers, Moorish arches and courtyards, and Indian domes. And to top it off, they painted it all in bright colors, which delights not only adults, but also children. The whimsically eccentric architecture of the palace combines Moorish, Gothic and Manueline motifs and the spirit of the castles of Central Europe. The palace stands on the top of the mountain, it can be bypassed along the perimeter along a special path. Ferdinand II also built here one of the most spectacular parks in Portugal, which was designed and planted for over 4 years, starting in 1846.

This most beautiful and romantic castle in Portugal is jokingly called "Snow White's Palace" and is often compared to the Bavarian Neuschwanstein. Pena Palace can be reached by bus number 434 from the city center for 4.5 euros, but you can also get on the path on foot.

We climb the rock where the fortress built by the Moors between the 9th and 10th centuries is located. During the capture by the Christians, the fortress surrendered without a fight. After the 15th century, the fortress lost its strategic importance. From above, a wonderful landscape opens: among the sea of ​​greenery, you can see the blue ocean and the white-red roofs of settlements and the capital.

We go down on foot to feel the beauty of the surrounding nature more strongly. The entire slope of the mountain is littered with huge boulders, as after a collapse or rockfall. It is not clear how tall trees can grow on these stones.

I pass by the ruins of an old Moorish fortress - once life was stormy here, and now only dilapidated stone walls remind of its former greatness.

Royal Sintra will forever be remembered as one of the most harmonious places in the world, combining both beautiful landscapes created by Mother Nature and man-made palaces and castles created by talented architects. Lord George Gordon Byron, admiring the beauty of Sintra, called it a paradise, and then forever immortalized the town in the famous poem “Great Paradise”.

The resort towns of Cascais and Estoril

After lunch we head to the westernmost point of Europe - Cape Roca. The path to it runs along the "Portuguese Riviera", with a visit to the resort towns of Cascais and Estoril. Although Lisbon stands on the coast of the ocean, there are no beaches in the city and those who want to plunge into the depths of the sea or just relax on the coast, Lisbon people go to these nearby resort cities. These cities are very nice and cozy.

15 km west of Lisbon is a magnificent resort - Estoril. It has a unique microclimate: warm and sunny summers, moderate temperatures the rest of the year. It is from the resort of Estoril that the tourism industry of Portugal originates. A little over a century ago, the amazing beauty of nature and the mild Atlantic climate attracted the world's elite and representatives of famous aristocratic families to Estoril. Magnificent sandy beaches, clear water and hotels inaccessible to a mere mortal are traditionally in demand among people of considerable income. Fans of outdoor activities will enjoy an incredible variety of water sports activities, including 8 newest water parks, and excellent golf courses.

Her Majesty the Queen of England often rests in Estoril, and the notorious Linda Evangelista has chosen a villa for herself. We pass by the hotel where our first and only President of the USSR, Mikhail Gorbachev, had a rest.

Located just a few kilometers from Estoril and 20 kilometers from Lisbon, Cascais is a typical example of Portuguese architecture with brightly colored tiled roofs and white walls lined with colorful ceramic tiles.

The name Cascais comes from the word cascale - "small stone". The city has a rich historical and architectural ensemble: a history museum, a maritime museum, churches and chapels of the 15th century. There is a monument to Don Pedro in the Central Square.

There are other monuments in the small town as well. We liked this sculptural warrior.

I really liked this unusual pretty bouquet.

A very attractive walk through the upper city with a well-groomed city park and the romantic castle of the Aristocrat.

If you move further from the city along the rocky coast, you will find yourself in Guinsha - the realm of wide dunes with frequent storm winds. This corner of untouched nature is a true paradise for windsurfers. Here is the picturesque cliff of Boca de Infierno (“the mouth of the underworld”): the sea has washed out a hole in the rock, and now “infernal stew” is constantly boiling in these stone jaws.

capeCabo deRoca

The mountain road leads to a cliff from which a dizzying panorama of the ocean and coastal cliffs opens. This is the westernmost point of Europe, Cape Cabo de Roca, which became a tourist attraction only in 1979. Before that, the "end of the world" on the Iberian Peninsula was considered the Spanish Cape Finisterre (lat. "end of the earth"). A rock 140 meters high, like the prow of a ship, protrudes into the ocean. Ignoring the protective barrier, I approach its edge. Standing at the very edge, I listen to the solemn music of the ocean and fill with its energy. Probably, the great Portuguese navigators, standing on the western shores of their native continent and peering into the boundless ocean distances, asked themselves the question: “What is beyond these distances?” and to find the answer to this question they went on long sea voyages.

We overcame here a difficult journey by bus through many European countries from the westernmost point of our native Ukraine, the Transcarpathian city of Chop (48º05′ N, 22º08′ E). We take a photo for memory with our yellow-blue national flag next to a stone stele, on which the coordinates (38º47′ N, 9º30′ W) are carved and the inscription “ Onde a terra acaba e o mar comeca….". Shrouded in mist or illuminated by the bright sun, this place is one and only, where, as the poet Camões said: TOthe earth ends and the ocean begins» , - this is how the words carved on a stone stele sound in translation.

This is a memorial stone.

As evidence of my presence in such a charismatic place, I purchase a personalized certificate from the Cape service center that I really was here. On the reverse side in different languages, including Russian, the following words are written: “ I certify that I was at Cape Roca in Sintra, in Portugal, at the westernmost point of the European continent, at the very edge of the world, “where the earth ends and the ocean begins”, where the Spirit of Faith, Love and a thirst for adventure prompted the Portuguese caravels to set off on their journey to searching for a new world» .

The souvenir shop has a lot of different products about staying in the westernmost point of Europe, especially a lot of souvenirs with drawings on various ceramic products. I choose a fridge magnet in the form of a small ceramic tile with the image of a cape as a memento of visiting this unique place.

But the main thing that we take away from this place is the memories of what the westernmost point of our native European continent looks like. The turquoise smoothness of the Atlantic caresses the eye, and the menacing rocks evoke legends of tragic, unrequited love.

We have reached the extreme point of our native continent, and with this I end my story about the journey through the Iberian Peninsula, my Iberian Romance.

September 15th, 2012 02:11 am

A year ago I was planning this trip, but last year the choice fell on the Canary Islands and Portugal was postponed.
But this year, Portugal finally came true. After crawling through blogs and travel sites, three cities were chosen: Porto, Lisbon and Albufeira. The latter was chosen exclusively for a beach holiday, where in the summer without swimming and sunbathing.
My first story will be about the second largest city in Portugal - Porto.

Let's start with the route. In my opinion, this is the best tarectori for making some idea about this country.
By the way, A=G=Lisbon. Google superimposed dots one on top of the other and came out such parsley.

How we got to Porto is another story. Since the plane landed in Lisbon very late and there were no trains to Porto at that time, I had to get there by Rede Expressos bus. Run-run, but we made it.
And voila - the city of Porto.
Our hotel was located in the center of Batalha Square. So in the morning we had a beautiful view of the Church of San Ildefons, streets flooded with sun and crowds of tourists.
I tried to keep a lot of people out of the frame, so the streets look more or less deserted.

The first thing that struck me was the Church of San Ildefons, the pearl of the square. It is all covered with tiled tiles characteristic of Portugal.
These tiles are called azulejos and are of Arabic origin. Their number in Porto is huge, from afar they are very reminiscent of Gzhel and tiles on Russian stoves.
It is interesting that they depict not just a repeating ornament, but various plots and characters.
It is very pleasing that azulejos was not taken away for souvenirs, otherwise it would be tempting to peel off.

Imbued with the Portuguese spirit, I endlessly clicked the streets going uphill and downhill.
Such differences are very atypical for flat Petersburg, so it is interesting to look at such outlandish landscapes.

When traveling in Portugal, you need to remember about comfortable shoes. The sidewalks are paved with very smooth paving stones, and the ups and downs increase the slip. And of course, you need to take into account the huge walking distances. I lost one pair of shoes in Porto while walking and had to walk barefoot part of the way to the hotel.
Although the sidewalks look very elegant.

Despite the fact that Porto is the second largest city in Portugal, it does not feel like Lisbon.
It is good to wander here, bumping into various architectural monuments without following the map.
A special chic is given by hanging linen everywhere. All colors and sizes. In every house, in the center and in the lanes.
The feeling of neglect of Porto still did not leave me. On each street, several houses stand dilapidated or abandoned, with their windows sealed up. There was a feeling that people were leaving the city, although it can be deceiving and it's just another "raisin" of Porto.

Probably one of the features of Portugal that comes to mind is trams. Not even - trams.
Such a hello from the past. Although they look very decent, almost like new.
If you wish, you can make a trip on this type of transport. But when I looked at the crowd, crowded there like sprats, I had no such desire.
Well, he's cute, right?

For me personally, Hop-on Hop-off buses have become an excellent alternative to excursions, even I would say a more advantageous option. They, as a rule, have an audio guide in Russian, if it is not available, it is always available in English, free wifi and a great view from the second floor. Usually we do the first lap to get acquainted with the sights, and on the second lap we get off at our favorite places for photographing and walking.

We started our flight from Praça da Liberdade, where Monument to King Don Pedro IV.
Freedom Square crowns the City Hall. In my opinion, it is very reminiscent of Wenceslas Square in Prague.
(Of course, I'm wildly sorry, but every time there was a mention of Don Pedro, I was reminded of the domestic film "Hello, I'm your aunt!". I could not resist, so as not to remember. :))

By the way, one more small detail. On Freedom Square is one of the most luxurious McDonald's I have seen. It looks like there used to be a restaurant there. The eagle would somehow be more typical of Germany. Inside, the room is also designed in the imperial-ceremonial style.

On sightseen buses, I like to sit on the second floor, of course. I sit high, I look far away + you get sunbathing. True, in Porto, on some streets, the trees are low, you have to bend down.
In the photo below, on the left, by the way, is the municipal building with a 70-meter bell tower.

The bus route ran along the ocean coast, so for the first time in Porto I saw the ocean washing the shores of Portugal. The weather was quite hot, so tourists and locals rested on the beaches. Young people preferred more extreme ways of cooling off, jumping from a heliport at the mouth of the Douro River, on which Porto itself stands.

By the way, the views of the city here are wonderful: houses hang one above the other and, of course, garlands of linen to dry.

On the other side of the river Douro, as we were told, the best fish restaurants. In general, judging by the number of fishing boats, there is definitely fish here.

Since we went to the river, it is impossible not to stumble upon HIM! Of course, I'm talking about the two-level bridge of King Luis I. It connects the Ribeira area with the cellars and wine warehouses of the city of Vila Nova de Gaia. Well, it was built according to the project of the student and companion of Gustave Eiffel Theophile Seyrig. Actually there is something in common.
Attention, many, many photos of the bridge!

The bridge is majestic, there are many of them. And having clicked it during the day from all sides, you certainly need to repeat the same thing at sunset and at night. By the way, in the pre-sunset hours, the light is the most advantageous in my opinion.

Of course, this colossus is not the only bridge across the Doura.
I don’t know the names of the next one (can anyone tell me?), But it looks impressive, yeah.

And the bridge, who would have thought ... Ponte de Dona Maria Pia, named after the wife of King Luis I. Romantic, charmer. Well, the whole family.

Views can be viewed from the bank from the side of Ribeiraio by climbing to the top on the lift or from the funicular on the other side.
True, the funicular is nothing special. The windows are somehow stained, the view from the bridge or the shore from the top is definitely better. Better save up money for port wine :).

Well, since I said this magic word (“port wine”, I mean), then we need to develop this topic.
I think it is not difficult to guess that the word "port" comes from the name of Porto.
So, the main concentration of warehouses and cellars with this drink is in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia, on the left bank of the Douro.
If you want to taste, there are no questions - welcome. And yes, it's very nice to wander around here. Then sit down somewhere on the shore and sharpen the sardines.
To be honest, I had a prejudice against port wine, I had never tried it before, but I heard enough negative reviews. True, it was about portaine, bought in our country.
It turns out that there are several categories of port wine tawny, brankco, ruby, vintage, etc.
I don't brag. that I tried everything, but tasted 3-4 varieties.
By the way, with a certain variety, it is advised to consume certain snacks: nuts, jam, ham with melon, fruits, lemon pie, etc.

By the way, from here you have a great view of the opposite shore.
Places are directly created for photosets. The houses are poked one on top of the other and there are crowds of walking tourists.
Having looked at all this, we rather hastened to cross the bridge, to join the evening bustle.

And a few words about what is on the other side - Ribeira.
This area is filled with narrow winding streets and dilapidated houses.
There was an impression that life here is by no means prosperous and people are slowly leaving this place.
But there is good news - the area is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites and it seems that it is being slowly restored.

By the way, one of the most beautiful railway stations in Europe, Sao Bento, is located in Porto.
The walls are tiled with blue and white azulejos tiles. The largest of them is made of 20 thousand tiles and decorates the waiting room. The painting depicts episodes from the history of railways.

Another interesting fact: the symbol of Portugal is the Barcelos rooster. Rooster Barcelos is fried, so it is always black. Such cockerels can always be purchased in any souvenir shop in Portugal, its image can be found almost everywhere.

In conclusion of this part, I will add: in order to see Portugal, it is still worth visiting Porto. It has the charm of a small town and is completely different from other places in Portugal.

Porto is a city similar to an ethnographic museum. He gave the name not only to the whole country, but also to the famous fortified wine Port wine.

Porto, photo by Benjamin Gillet

Porto is a city in northern Portugal, at the mouth of the Douro River, not far from the Atlantic Ocean. In size and importance, it is listed as the second after Lisbon. The old city of Porto is located on the right bank of the river. Since 1996, it has had the status of a UNESCO site. The architecture of the old center was formed over several centuries and has been completely preserved. The city in terms of the number of attractions and beauty can compete with the capital.

Modern Porto is a developed industrial center. The city with a population of about 240,000 inhabitants has been operating a subway since 2002. Six unique bridges have been built across the Douro. Leixoes harbor is an important cargo port in the country. Porto is home to the largest university in Portugal.

How it all began

The history of the city began with a Roman settlement in the 5th century. The Portus tribe lived on the left bank of the Douro River, and Calais lived on the right bank, so the territory was called Portucale. In the VIII century, the settlement was captured by the Moors. In the X century, Muslims were expelled, a new Christian county arose - the possession of Henry of Burgundy (father of Afonso Henriques).

During the Age of Discovery, Porto flourished. XIII-XIV centuries is the time of cooperation between Portugal, England and other countries of the Hanseatic League. Porto was a commercial, bourgeois and industrial city. He always sought autonomy from the central government and opposed Lisbon. In the 15th century it became the center of shipbuilding. The locals have always been rebellious. There have been numerous uprisings here.

It was in Porto that the first Portuguese Constitution was adopted.

Sights of Porto

Luis I Bridge

Porto Cathedral

Church of St. Ildefonso

Modern Art Museum

Art Museum

Electric Transport Museum

Museum of Transport and Communications

Port wine museum

Cafe Majestic

Ribeira quarter, photo by Mariana Daher

The old quarter of Ribeira (Ribeira) on the banks of the river is the heart of Old Porto. Its narrow streets with colorful facades of houses are mixed up like a maze, some houses still stand on Roman foundations. Many of the buildings are beautifully decorated with azulejos, traditional blue and white ceramic tiles. It is always noisy here - numerous restaurants and cafes, colorful taverns are open until late in the evening.

Ribeira embankment, photo AN07

Cais da Ribeira is a motley promenade along the Douro River. Here you can see fragments of the ancient fortress wall and ancient cargo ships that used to transport port wine, and now “serve” as pleasure ships. On the waterfront you can take great photos and buy souvenirs.

Luis I Bridge of Eiffel's Disciple

Luis I Bridge, photo by Małgorzata Kaczor

Luís I Bridge (Ponte de D. Luís) (1886) is one of the hallmarks of Porto. This is a two-level bridge built on the site of an old stone one. The architect is the student and companion of Gustave Eiffel, Theophilus Sayrig. The lower level is for cars, it connects the Ribeira area with the cellars and wine warehouses of the satellite town of Vila Nova de Gaia. The upper one is for the metro, it links the São Bento train station area, with the upper part of Vila Nova de Gaia. Pedestrians can walk on both levels. Luis I Bridge is one of the best viewpoints in Porto. Not far from the bridge there is a funicular and the remains of the Fernandina fortress wall (XIV century).

Cathedral of Porto

Se Cathedral, photo by E Assad (Massad)

Porto Cathedral (Sé Catedral do Porto) is a temple rebuilt from a Romanesque fortress in the 12th century. Massive battlements and two imposing towers still give the cathedral the features of a defensive citadel. In one of the chapels of the temple there is a unique altar made of 800 kg of silver. In 1809, the city's defenders saved it from the Napoleonic soldiers.

episcopal palace

Bishop's Palace, photo rangaku1976

The Episcopal Palace (Paço Episcopal) is located next to the Se Cathedral. This is a two-story Romanesque building of the 12th century, reconstructed in the spirit of Baroque and Rococo.

Church of Saint Ildefonso, photo by ChihPing

Church of Santo Ildefonso (Igreja de Santo Ildefonso), XIII century. Rebuilt at the beginning of the 18th century, decorated with azulejos, more than 11 thousand tiles were used to cover the walls. Eight original stained-glass windows and an 1811 organ have been preserved in the decoration of the temple.

Clerigos Church, photo Dan

Igreja dos Clérigos is a Baroque church of the Brotherhood of Clerics, built in 1750. The main facade and tympanum are decorated with statues and reliefs, the nave of the building has an oval in plan. Attached to the church is the 76-meter Torre dos Clérigos campanile, erected in the period 1754–63. This is the highest bell tower in the country; for many years it served as a guide for sailors. On the sixth tier of Torre dos Clerigos, there is an excellent observation deck.

town hall

City Hall, photo by Diego Delso

The construction of the City Hall of Porto (Câmara Municipal do Porto) began in 1920, but it began to be used for municipal purposes only from 1957. The six-story monumental granite building has a basement, two courtyards, a 70 m high can be climbed by overcoming 180 steps. Inside are solemnly decorated halls. The interior of the building is made of marble and granite.

Freedom Square, photo by Diego Delso

Liberty Square (Praça da Liberdade) is an architectural complex of the 19th–20th centuries. in the south of Porto. Here is a monument to King Pedro IV, who granted Portugal a constitution; stands the palace of Cardosas. The Central Station (Estação São Bento) adjoins the square. And the square itself is surrounded by banks, hotels, restaurants and numerous offices.

Sau Bento Station

Sao Bento Station, photo Concierge.2C

Sao Bento Central Station (Estação São Bento) (1916) is a hymn to the beauty of the Portuguese azulejo. Magnificent panels on the walls of the building depict scenes from the most striking episodes in the history of Portugal, lined with blue and white tiles.

National Museum

Soares dos Reis, photo by Alegna13

Soares dos Reis (Museu Nacional de Soares dos Reis) - National Museum, opened in 1833, it occupies the neoclassical building of the Carrancas Palace (Palácio das Carrancas). The basis of the collection is a collection of works by the sculptor Soaris doug Reis. In addition to sculptures, there is a rich collection of Portuguese paintings of the 19th–20th centuries, a collection of paintings from the 17th–18th centuries, silver, ceramics, interior items, textiles, glass from Portugal and the countries of the East.

For connoisseurs of art and history, Porto has a wide variety of museums. Most interesting:
Museum of Modern Art (Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Serralves),
art museum - house-workshop of Antonio Carneiro (Casa-oficina António Carneiro),
Museum of Electric Transport (Museu do Carro Eléctrico),
Museum of Transport and Communications (Museu dos Transportes e Comunicações),
Museum of Port Wine (Museu do Vinho do Porto).

Cafe Majestic

Majestic Cafe, photo by Lilly Darma

The Majestic Café is the city's most famous establishment and has been operating since 1921. There are pompous art deco interiors, a rich menu, a huge assortment of coffee and desserts. It is said that it was in the Majestic Cafe that the British writer JK Rowling began writing about Harry Potter.

portuguese port wine

Portugal is the birthplace of port wine (Vinho do Porto), everyone knows this. It was Porto that was the main center for the production and transportation of the "national treasure" from the 12th century. The name of the wine is protected by origin: only liqueur wines from grapes grown in the Douro Valley sold in Porto can be called "porto". The authenticity and quality of Portuguese ports are protected by the state. The origin of the drink is confirmed by a guarantee stamp issued by the Portuguese Institute of Winemaking. The city has many wineries - large and small. The most famous brand of port wine is produced by the Calem family winery. The company even founded its own museum - "Porto Calem".

Entertainment and holidays

Porto loves fun and entertainment. Carnivals, processions, costume balls are constantly held here for any reason. They are accompanied by fireworks, an abundance of treats, and musical performances.

Carnival takes place in Porto in February.

In June, St. Anthony's Day is celebrated, and the Cathedral becomes the center of events these days.

On the night of June 24, locals jump over the fire and set off fireworks - this is how the Catholic feast of the birth of St. John (São João do Porto) is held.

In September, the city hosts the International Puppet Theater Festival - the audience comes from all over Europe.

House of Music, photo Marinhopaiva

A large-scale House of Music was built in the city; transparent walls were erected in two of its halls.

Nightlife in Porto is also rich. The city has many nightclubs where you can have fun and relax. Most of these establishments are located on the Ribeira promenade and in the suburbs of Matosinhos.

Lovers of nature and leisurely walks will appreciate the Botanical Garden, the oldest in Portugal.

What's with the weather?

Winter in Porto is warm and mild, the temperature is around +14°C. Summer is quite hot and humid, the air warms up to +25°C. The greatest amount of precipitation falls in winter. August is considered to be a comfortable and warm month. The average water temperature in summer is +17°.

What is a typical meal?

Portuguese cuisine is simple and satisfying, it is also called "peasant". It uses fish, seafood and meat, and is usually garnished with rice and vegetables. Be sure to try: beef giblets; feijoada (a dish of meat, rice and red beans); mashed potato soup with cabbage; stewed cod with peas; baked trout; caviar from olives. From the exotic: monkfish, wolf perch, goat cheese with a thick crust.

Almost all sweet dishes are prepared with the addition of almonds and cinnamon. Desserts include a variety of cakes and pastries, mousses and puddings, crispy biscuits and fruit salads.

Souvenirs

It is better to buy gifts and souvenirs for relatives and friends in the shops on Santa-Katarine Street. It is there that there are many souvenir shops, street markets and antique shops.

The most popular gift from Porto is a bottle of Portuguese port wine. It is worth paying attention to ceramics, products made from cork oak bark, figurines of cockerels, shoes and textiles.

Transport in Porto

Vintage tram in Porto, photo by Andreas Nagel

To any city attraction, which is located within the city, the subway, consisting of three lines, will take you. This is the optimal transport for tourists in Poro.

You can also move around the city by buses and trams. Operates night transport. An alternative to public transport is a taxi.

But what you must do in Porto is to take a ride in an old tram from 1930 and see the Atlantic Ocean from its window. The interior of the tram is lined with wood, the driver drives the car while standing, because there are no seats.

Porto is the city of port wine and football, the city of high arched bridges and bustling waterside bars, the city of ugly and dirty streets, the city that gave its name to Portugal. So much has been written about Porto that trying to tell something new is a thankless task. But still I will try and tell and show.

The city is located north of on the right bank of the Douro River, which stretches almost 900 kilometers across the entire Iberian Peninsula.

The history of the city goes back to the Romans, since that time Porto began to develop first as a port, and then as an industrial city. Moreover, over the past two millennia, it has not lost its port charm at all, but more on that below...

Porto is the second largest city in Portugal and is often referred to as the northern capital.

One of the most recognizable symbols of the city is the Ponte de Don Luis bridge, built at the end of the 19th century by Theophilus Seyrig, a student of the same Gustave Eiffel. The bridge connects the two banks of the Douro River. The bridge is two-level: at the upper level, at a height of 45 meters, there is a metro line, while the lower tier, located directly above the water, is intended for cars.

But the most famous symbol of Porto is, of course, the famous fortified wine - port wine.

Port wine can only be called wine produced on the banks of the Douro River. This provision is enshrined in legislative acts of Portugal and the European Union. So the Soviet “Three Axes” and other similar surrogate liquids, of course, not only have nothing to do with the noble sweet drink, but they borrowed its name absolutely illegally.

By the way, contrary to the opinion of the majority, port wine is by no means produced in Porto - the world-famous cellars in which oak barrels of wine are aged are located on the opposite coast from Porto - in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia.

Previously, in order not to disturb the wine by transporting it along the uneven Portuguese roads, it was transported from the vineyards to the cellars in barrels on flat-bottomed cargo boats with square sails. In memory of those times, today you can see many moored boats, just opposite the cellars. Some of the boats have been converted into restaurants, where you can endlessly sit at the tables and enjoy the fresh breeze from the Atlantic with pleasant sweet notes sparkling in a glass of fortified wine.

A few words about transport. In Porto, as well as in, old rattling trams run.

There is also more modern transport. For example, the city metro is more like a tram.

A funicular line has been laid up along the old fortress wall from the Douro bank.

The fortress wall also appeared here not by chance - at the very beginning of the reconquista, Porto occupied a border position. The border between the Muslim lands and the Portuguese county, which had just received autonomy, passed exactly along the Douro River.

The funicular runs quite rarely - the operator waits until the booth is packed with people to the eyeballs, like a jar of sprats.

And, probably, the most interesting form of public transport is the cable car connecting the area next to the Ponte de Don Luis bridge and the Douro river embankment next to the wine cellars.

Although, of course, this is no longer Porto, but Vila Nova de Gaia, but still very interesting.

And it is interesting because it is from this cable car that the best view of the historical part of Porto opens in my opinion.

The episcopal palace rises monumentally above the densely crowded residential houses.

Next to it, on a hillside, is the ancient Bairro da Se district - it is the poorest and at the same time the most picturesque quarter of Porto.

There are many small open restaurants along the waterfront that seem to be full of drunken fun around the clock.

In the meantime, it's time to look at Porto from above. The best place for this is the observation tower of the Clerigos church.

Its bell tower is the highest in Portugal. For a long time it was a landmark for ships arriving from the Atlantic.

A narrow staircase of 225 steps leads upstairs.

Let's take a breath on one of the platforms... So far we have only reached the level of the roofs.

Well, here we are at the top.

Let's look at Porto.

We see red roofs descending in ledges to the banks of the Douro. We see Vila Nova de Gaia located on the far shore. We see wine cellars occupying almost the entire opposite bank of the river.

We see neat new roofs.

We see that there are picturesque ruins right in the center of Porto.

We see that the slopes of the hills on which Porto is located are quite steep, and sometimes you need to sweat a lot to climb the many steps.

We see towering modern quarters in the distance.

We see that huge parks and squares covered with green crowns of trees go west to the Atlantic.

All. We have seen enough of Porto from above. We continue to walk the streets.

Let us pay attention to the fact that entire facades of houses can be decorated with blue tiles here.

We will feel the atmosphere of the Bairro da Se quarter, above which, like a mighty phallus, rises the bell tower of the Clerigos church, which we visited a little earlier.

The houses are tall and the streets are narrow and dirty. It is stuffy between the houses, the air seems to have frozen, having absorbed many aromas, ranging from the smells of cheap food coming from nowhere to the frank stench, so familiar from the native St. Petersburg pissed elevators. The feeling that from a civilized European country you suddenly find yourself in a poor Asian one.

Clothes are hung on the streets. From time to time, people of a very dubious appearance come across, with whom I really would not like to meet on a dark street under the cover of night.

In general - a real port city. For a larger entourage, only drunken sea wolves and cheap port prostitutes are missing. Although, maybe I just looked bad?

I look more closely, and I begin to understand that the city is amazing!