Switzerland and Italy are separated by the picturesque region of the province of Valle d'Aosta, on the border of which the Pienine Alps rise. Many tourists go to see the unforgettable scenery of high snow-capped peaks or go skiing, but only a few of them dare to climb to the top of the Alps.

One of the most popular mountains is not the highest. Its German name is the Matterhorn, and its Italian name is Monte Cervino. It attracts tourists with its unusual appearance, reminiscent of a pyramid deployed on the four cardinal points. The peak is located near a small lake and stands apart from the rest of the hills.

The height of the Matterhorn is 4478 meters above sea level.

The first measurement was carried out in 1792 using a long chain. In fact, the Matterhorn has two peaks of approximately the same height. By decision of both countries, their location was clearly fixed on the common border.

ascent

The nearest settlements from the Matterhorn are Zermatt (Switzerland) and Breuil-Cervinia (Italy). Interestingly, before they were small, unremarkable villages, but after conquering the peak, they began to gain popularity among tourists.

As a rule, if a climber comes to Zermatt, then the ascent takes place along the Hernli ridge, thus repeating the ascent of the pioneers. If in the Italian Breuil-Cervinia, then along the Lyon ridge. The second option is considered more difficult and is suitable for trained athletes.

The slopes of the peak are steep, so ice and snow do not linger on them. This is a great danger for a person climbing it. Many avalanches fall down during the year, taking with them everything that gets in their way. Also for this reason, there are four glaciers located on all sides of the mountain at the lower level. Some of the largest are Tiefmatten and Matterhorn near the western and northern walls.

The classic trek to the Swiss peak starts at 3260 meters from the Hernli hut. The trip in both directions takes about 12 hours. The steepest sections are equipped with racks with stretched ropes. Approximately in the middle of the route there is another shelter for rest for a group of up to 10 people with a walkie-talkie for emergency calls.

You can also visit the foot of the Matterhorn in a less extreme way, using the mountain railway or lifts.

Story

The history of conquering the Matterhorn begins with repeated attempts to climb the mountain. Due to its level of difficulty, it has become one of the last in the Alps, on the top of which climbers have appeared. A significant event occurred on July 14, 1865, when a group of athletes from the Swiss side, Eduard Whymper, managed to climb the peak. In the future, out of seven people, only three went down.

Three days later, the Italian slope of the Matterhorn was conquered by climbers Jean-Baptiste Bic and Jean-Antoine Carrel. Many believe that these ascents marked the end of the "golden age of mountaineering" and all the most difficult peaks were conquered by man.

How to get there

To see the Matterhorn peak from a close distance, the entire route can be divided into two main parts. First you need to get to the village of Zermatt, and from there go to the top. The nearest international airports from Zermatt are located in Geneva and Zurich at a distance of 230-250 kilometers. To travel, you can buy a train ticket or rent a car.

Trains

Trains in Switzerland are considered the most comfortable, in addition, the routes along which they go are very picturesque. The fare will be about 65 - 80 euros, and the travel time will be 3-4 hours. Departure from the Cornavin station in Geneva or Central Station in Zurich.

Automobile

It will not be possible to drive to Zermatt itself, since vehicles are not allowed to drive through the streets of the village. As a rule, the car is left in the neighboring village of Tesh at the terminal. More information about the opening hours and prices can be found on the official website. From there they transfer to the train and drive another five kilometers to Zermatt. On average, it takes only 15 minutes.

The fastest way to get from Geneva is the A9 highway with tolls. You can cover a distance of 230 kilometers in just three hours.

The route from Zurich to Täsch follows the A1, A4 or A8. The average travel time is about four hours, the distance is 250 kilometers.

Gornergrat mountain railway

A special mountain railway was laid from Zermatt. Its distance is nine kilometers to the Gornergrat hill. The train delivers its passengers to a height of 3090 meters, where the observation deck is located. It has already become one of the main attractions of this resort in itself.

The cost of an individual ticket is from 67 to 100 euros in both directions. The price varies depending on the tourist season. More information about the schedule and ticket prices can be found on the official website.

Funicular to Rothorn Peak

One of the best views of Mount Matterhorn opens from another peak - Rothorn. At an altitude of 3130 meters is the upper station of the funicular. The fare will be from 32 euros.

Matterhorn glacier paradise

The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car is very popular among vacationers. From there you can see not only the Matterhorn mountain, but also the other peaks around, including Mont Blanc. The fare starts from 60 euros.

• Location: border between Switzerland and Italy (near Zermatt)
• Mountain Range: Pennine Alps
• Height above sea level: 4478 m
• First ascent: July 14, 1865

- the world-famous picturesque mountain in the Central Alps. She has no "neighbors", so a single highest hill looks very impressive. The pyramidal shape of the mountain adds to its sophistication. The Matterhorn is the most recalcitrant and dangerous object for climbing, but, nevertheless, some lucky ones managed to climb to the top. Today, the Matterhorn is one of the superb attractions. A lot is connected with it, which we will definitely tell you about in our article.

Where is the Mattehorn located?

Mount Matterhorn is located on the border and Italy. It belongs to the mountain range of the Pennine Alps, so a lot functions around it. Of these, closest to the foot are located (Switzerland) and Breuil-Cervinia (Italy). They are the best ski resorts in their countries. Although these resort towns belong to different states, they are connected by the ancient Theodul Pass on the eastern side of the mountain. Therefore, moving from one resort to another is not difficult. Many people are afraid to pass the way of the pass, because it is located at an altitude of 3295 meters, and the road itself is sometimes covered with solid ice, sometimes covered with snow.

There is another pass near the mountain that connects the tourist centers, it is called Furggjoh. But, despite the fact that it is a little lower, its path is still considered dangerous and only brave climbers will dare to go through it.

Height and relief

Mount Matterhorn has two peaks that are located at a distance of about 100 m. The highest point of Mount Matterhon is 4478 meters and is called the "Swiss peak". The Italian peak is located on the western side, its height is 4477 m. They got their name due to the nationality of the first conquerors, but not because of the territorial division, because both are located on the border between the two countries.

The Matterhorn has four steep slopes that create a visually pyramidal shape. Each slope points to a certain part of the world (north, south, etc.) and got its name. They are quite steep, so the snow rarely lingers on the mountain. Basically, he descends to the foot of the avalanche. This phenomenon is very dangerous, so many people are afraid to be near the Matterhorn when the mountain dresses up in a white robe. Mostly avalanches descend in the spring and summer, and in winter the excellent white Matterhorn mountain resembles a glacial obelisk, the beauty of which causes only admiration from the audience.

great ascents

Mount Matterhorn is really very dangerous for climbers. In addition to the steep mountain slopes, brave conquerors will face many difficulties associated with weather conditions. In an instant, a serious snow storm can break out on the mountain at any time of the year, and one should prepare for such dangers for a long time.

There were only about ten attempts to climb the Matterhorn. Brave climbers gathered in large groups and equipped with everything necessary, but only a few managed to climb the Matterhorn peak. In July 1865, an Italian group of seven climbers set out to conquer the summit. It consisted of: Edward Whymper, Lord Francias Douglas, Charles Hudson, Charles Hadow and three unknown guides. All of them had previously attempted to conquer the peaks of the Matterhorn, but did not achieve the desired results. Although the heights that they managed to climb were the first to be reached by them (3350 m, 4003 m and 4120 m). July 14, 1865 at 13.45 they were able to reach the summit of the Matterhorn and became its first conquerors.

This victory soon turned into a tragedy. When climbers descended from a height, a snow storm began. All members of the group were in a bunch and the last one in it slipped, knocking down the next three. Those who could stand on their feet grabbed the mouth of the mountain, but the rope of the bundle broke and four climbers fell into the abyss. Two guides and Edward Whymper returned from the expedition.

On the slopes of the Matterhorn, a total of 600 people died. These horrific facts have stopped many brave climbers. The Matterhorn was the last mountain in the Swiss Alps to be conquered.

How to get to the mountain?

Climbing the mountain is dangerous, and not every climber, even an experienced one, will dare to do this, but you should definitely take a look at one of the main attractions of Switzerland. It is best to do this from the town of Zermatt closest to the mountain. You can get to it using public transport. There are absolutely no cars here, but still there is an option to get to it by the famous Glacier Express train, which we love so much. Stunning landscapes with mountain views are provided to you!

Mount Matterhorn is known to many for its unique profile. Even those who have never been on the border of Italy with Switzerland recognize it from postcards and films. The profile of an almost regular triangular shape became the prototype of the Toblerone chocolate bar and some other inventions. It is not surprising that several million tourists flock to this beautiful peak every year. Some people come in winter to ski. Others prefer the picturesque nature at the foot and hiking. Still others strive to conquer impregnable peaks. No traveler leaves here disappointed.

Geographic features

The picturesque hill is located in the massif of the Pennine Alps, right on the border of two states. From the south, the slopes belong to Italy, and the northern, western and eastern sides of the mountain are in Switzerland. The peak is located at some distance from the rest of the hills, which makes it possible to admire the mountain among the plains and lower hills. The top of the Matterhorn reaches a height of 4.478 km. It is rocky and rather steep, which for a long time prevented climbers from conquering it.

If you look closely, you can see that the mountain has two peaks. They are at a distance of almost 100 m from each other. Moreover, the border passes between them, so the peaks are called so: Swiss and Italian. The latter is a meter lower than its neighbor.

The upper part of the mountain is distinguished by the proportions of an almost regular pyramid, oriented to the cardinal points. True, the southern and northern parts are somewhat wider than the others. In winter, the top is completely covered with a snow cap and glaciers, but by summer, despite the high altitude, the rocks are almost completely exposed. Under the rays of the hot sun, only a small border remains, which encircles the mountain from east to northwest. Because of the steep cliffs, avalanches and rockfalls often occur here.

Not far from the Matterhorn there are several villages where ski lovers can stay. From the Swiss side, the nearest settlement is the village of Zermatt. The most popular Italian resort is Breuil-Cervinia, which is located at an altitude of more than 2 km. The Theodul pass has existed between these settlements for several millennia. Ski slopes lie at an altitude of up to 3.9 km, although some extreme people decide to climb even higher.

Mountain in history

The chronicles mention that the first settlements in the valley, at the foot of Mount Matterhon appeared during the Roman Empire. In the 1st century BC. trade routes between the south and north of Europe ran through the Theodul Pass. For the ancient tribes, the mountain was a frightening place. According to popular beliefs, the Devil himself lived on its top. Only the intervention of evil forces could explain the frequent avalanches that caused serious damage to the villages.

Several centuries later, during the period of major geographical discoveries, travelers were interested not only in distant countries, but also in the mysteries of neighboring areas. English researchers with great zeal began to study the biology of the area and the geological composition of the mountain.

By the middle of the XIX century. in England, a whole movement of conquerors of mountain peaks arose. They rushed to the Swiss, Italian and French Alps to climb impregnable peaks. Even Mont Blanc (4.8 km) was conquered by climbers earlier than the Matterhorn. Several times climbers gathered at its foot, but no one dared to climb to the top.

Conquest of the Matterhorn

In the summer of 1865, three groups of climbers at once, without saying a word, gathered in Zermatt. They were all heading for the impregnable peak. To increase the chances of success and get ahead of their competitors, climbers united and hit the road. The group consisted of 7 professional climbers.

The trip lasted two days. First, the travelers climbed gentle slopes to a height of 3.3 km. The next day we continued our ascent and set foot on the glacier. After several stops, the snowy peak was conquered by such stubborn daredevils. The first climbers climbed the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865.

But the ascent is only part of the journey, a difficult descent awaited ahead. The team united in a bunch and began to slowly move along the steep slope. One of the daredevils could not resist and hung on the rope. The rest of the team followed suit. Only three climbers managed to hold on, the rest disappeared into the snowy abyss. A few days later, the bodies of three dead were found in the glacier. The fourth traveler was never found.

Today, special paths for rock climbers are equipped on different sides of the Matterhorn, but this does not guarantee safety. Due to accidents or overconfidence, the list of victims of dangerous slopes is replenished. So far, 600 deaths have been recorded.

The perils of the mountain

One of the dangers of the Matterhorn is associated with changeable weather. Clouds often cling to the peak and envelop it in dense fog. Already at a distance of a meter it is difficult to distinguish something. Moreover, the change of weather can occur in just 10-15 minutes. In addition to fog, severe storms with thunder and snowfall are possible. From unexpected bad weather it is very difficult to quickly find shelter.

Another problem is rockfall. Sometimes it is provoked by climbers themselves, but more often whole blocks are torn off under the weight of glaciers. Along with the stones, snow avalanches often descend. Surprisingly, numerous collapses of rock and glaciers had little effect on the appearance of the Matterhorn.

Skiing in Breuil-Cervinia

Such a picturesque area could not escape tourists and sportsmen. Breuil-Cervinia is one of the most popular ski resorts in Italy. It is located on the southern slope of the Matterhorn. Fans of skiing, sledding or snowboarding gather here from the beginning of winter until mid-May. The snow stays on the glaciers all year round, so you can treat yourself to thrills even in summer.

Steep and gentler slopes attract intermediate and beginners. The organizers designed the tracks very ingeniously, so even a long vacation among the snowdrifts will not get bored. The total length of the slopes reaches 200 km. This allows you to master a new track every time. There are 37 funiculars, flat tracks and steep slopes at the service of tourists.

Those who are tired of skiing can visit the snowboard park, freeriding area or half-pipe. Breuil-Cervinia is most popular among beginner athletes or tourists with children. Extreme lovers usually go to the Swiss side.

The border between Italy and Switzerland is rather arbitrary. By cable car, you can quickly find yourself in a neighboring state. You just need to carefully monitor the time in order to have time to return home before closing.

After several hours of active rest among the snowy slopes, you can relax in the SPA center, swim in the pool and have a snack in the restaurant. Also in Breuil-Cervinia there are several gyms, boutiques, comfortable hotels and bars. For an active nightlife there are nightclubs, discos and cinemas.

How to get there

For those planning a holiday in Cervinia, it is convenient to use the airports of Turin or Milan. Most hotels offer their guests a transfer from the airport to the door of the hotel on a convenient shuttle. Regular buses run from large cities to the foot of the mountain.

Matterhorn mountain

Time flows differently for mountains and people, human centuries are just seconds for imperturbable stone giants. People come and go, generation follows generation, the history of mankind, like the wind, washes cold granite, leaving no trace on it ... Only for an impossibly short moment the stone will keep the warmth of the hand, the mountain echo will prolong the sound of a living voice for a moment. And everything will be quiet again.

The mountains were before man, and will be after him, unchanging in their cold grandeur, impregnable guardians of eternity... The middle of the 19th century. Europe takes a step into the future, they invent an airplane, telegraph, dynamite. Russia is abolishing serfdom, America is in hysterics of civil strife... The reforms are completely changing the way of life of millions of people. Behind the thunder of great world achievements, an imperceptible, modest achievement is lost at first glance, several brave people unite to solve the most difficult task for that time and achieve success together.

A man's foot has set foot on the top of the most difficult and impregnable mountain of the Alps... After a bunch of adventurers climbed Mont Blanc in 1786, they proved to the whole world that snow-white mountain peaks are accessible for climbing, almost a century has passed. Climbing has found its adherents, has become a fashionable sport. In the civilized Alps, there was only one unsolved problem, the Matterhorn. And to this day, this giant rock tooth, rapaciously grinning at the sky, does not leave indifferent those who, by the will of fate, were given the opportunity to witness this grandiose spectacle... On July 14, 1865, a team of seven people began climbing along the route now known as Hornli Ridge under the guidance of the famous climber and traveler, Englishman Edward Whymper.

On another route, from Italy, another team was climbing at the same time, led by the Italian Jean-Antoine Carrel. The reason for the simultaneous ascent was a bet made on the eve of who would be the first to rise to the top. The route from Switzerland, along which Whymper was walking, was unexpectedly much easier than the route chosen by Carrel. The Englishman won the bet by reaching the summit three days ahead of his rival. But it is difficult to call this win a victory. Of the seven participants in that ascent, only three managed to descend. Four climbers died during the descent.

According to the official version proposed by Wimper, the rope with which everyone was tied broke when one participant fell, causing a general fall. But downstairs, not everyone believed this explanation. It was claimed that the rope was cut, the edges of the cliff looked too even. But the truth has never been found. A mute witness to this long-standing tragedy, a disheveled piece of that same rope, is still carefully kept in the Zermatt Mountaineering Museum. ...At the same time, Carrel's team climbed to the top and descended in full force, passing a route that for a long time remained the most difficult climbing route in the Alps.

Climbing the Matterhorn along this route in our days, when the level of technological progress has made the impossible possible, using the most modern climbing equipment, light and warm clothes designed specifically for mountaineering, sleeping in a comfortable hut equipped with solar panels, you involuntarily think about those people. How did they do it? What strength of spirit led them up through the snow, cold, sheer ice-covered rocks? This is the question that interests me the most. I do not think that the value of human life has changed in any way. In my opinion, the motivation for mountaineering has not changed either.

But there is no such self-sacrifice, such purity of aspirations, there are no more such people. Against the background of their feat, you feel like a pygmy, a helpless greenhouse plant. Here I stumble over another thought, does not progress entail a technical spiritual regression, a weakening of the spirit? But this is another topic, far from the topic of my story. ... On August 26, 1891, Jean-Antoine Carrel, the best guide in Italy, a brilliant climber, behind whom there were dozens of first ascents of the most difficult climbing routes, the founder of sports mountaineering, dies of exhaustion on the slope of Testa di Lione while descending from the Matterhorn...

Today, the Matterhorn, or Mont Cervin, as this mountain is called in Italy, is one of the most popular Alpine peaks for climbing, the desired goal of many thousands of climbers. ... Plans collapsed due to stable bad weather. Traverse Monte Rosa - the most beautiful route in the Alps had to be shortened and limited to a few ascents in the complete absence of visibility, climbing Mont Blanc in a snowstorm did not bring the expected pleasure. The next stage of our program was the Matterhorn. Knowing well the nature of this peak, I had no illusions about trying to climb it in bad weather ...

By the light of lanterns, inside the Carrel climbing hut, located at an altitude of 3820 meters above sea level, on the steep south-eastern ridge of the Matterhorn, morning swarming begins. Four people, awake before dawn, prepare breakfast and pack their assault packs. In order to have a maximum of daylight time in reserve, we, already tied up and shod in crampons, set off for the ascent as soon as the first signs of dawn appear on the rocks... Predawn twilight. The horizon acquires a pale pink hue, its dark broken line separates from the brightening sky, becomes clearer, more contrasting. Not a cloud. The air is calm and motionless, the mountains are still sleeping, smiling like children... It seems that the weather has finally had mercy and given us the chance that everyone was hoping for!

Now just up. First, along simple rocks, with a long traverse, we climb along a heavily destroyed ridge, cut by gendarmes. I recognize the familiar outlines of the terrain. I have already passed here in the winter, during my unsuccessful attempt at a solo ascent. The traverse leads to the base of a 60-meter sheer wall. Here hangs a long chain, going far up, for the bend of the cornice it would be hard without it... Several memorial plaques are nailed to the beginning of the chain. Someone here paid with their life for their aspiration to the top...

Fingering the securely fastened steel links with my hands, I thought about how the pioneers walked here.

Indeed, from the equipment they had only strong hands and an unshakable desire to succeed ... From the southeast, a narrow rocky shoulder adjoins the Matterhorn, the so-called Tyndall Peak, whose height is 250 meters less than the height of the Matterhorn itself. From here begins the most interesting part of the route - a smooth sheer cliff, filled in the upper part with ice from a melted snow cap at the top. The whole further path is visible at a glance, first up, then a little to the right, then up again and traverse to the left to reach the summit. However, these 250 meters are a key section of the entire route, its most difficult part, for the passage of which it is necessary to mobilize all the remaining forces.

Vertex. Suddenly, the dome of space unfolded overhead causes dizziness. The horizon opened up to 360 degrees, nothing obstructs the view. In the north, green valleys and snow-white peaks of the Swiss Alps, in the south, in a light haze, all of Italy to the Mediterranean Sea ... I am standing on the very tip of a two-kilometer rock needle, under a bottomless blue dome of the sky, free from everything in the world. The feeling of such freedom is alien to human nature, it cannot be preserved, carried down with oneself. Maybe this is one of the reasons why people again and again climb the highest mountain peaks, risking their lives for a few short moments ... The Matterhorn has two peaks, separated by a small saddle.

One of them "owns" Italy, the other Switzerland. It's funny. 50 meters of climbing rope, fixed on the Italian peak, was just enough to get to the Swiss one!

At the end of the last century, a two-meter iron cross was installed on the Italian peak. It looks very impressive, especially if you think about the fact that there were no helicopters then ...

Time flows differently for mountains and people, human centuries are just seconds for imperturbable stone giants.

People come and go, a generation follows a generation, the history of mankind, like the wind, washes cold granite, leaving no trace on it ... Time seemed to freeze in stone agony. If you touch it, touch the roughness of the stone, trace the sinuous pattern of a rocky crack with nervous frozen fingers, you get a feeling similar to the one you feel when holding a dusty, ancient book in your hands ... A feeling of closeness to something very distant, touching the Legend .

TECHNICAL DATA

The route of climbing the Matterhorn (Lionridge) from Italy in Russian mountaineering is not classified, approximately 5B k.t. The season is from June to September. (The description of the route is provided by the Moscow School of Alpinism and Rock Climbing "Alexclimb".) The approach starts from the resort town of Cervinia. You can get to it from Milan either by intercity bus or by train to the town of Chatillion and then by local bus. You can also reach by car on the motorway Turin - Aosta (turn to Cervinia in Châtienne) following the signs. From Cervinia in 2-3 hours you can climb a dirt road to the climbing hotel "Abruzzi Hut" ("Abruzzi Hut").

True, for the last three years it has been constantly being repaired, and it is closed. A little above Abruzzi Hut there are several small glacier lakes with trout, there are excellent places for tents. (If you use the hotel, then you do not need to carry bivouac equipment with you). From "Abruzzi Hut" follow the trail towards the left side of the Testa di Lione massif. The trail is marked. On the gently sloping rocks one can approach by serpentine under the couloir going to the left, which is steep in the upper part (10 m, 80°, simple rocks). After passing it, you find yourself on a gentle rocky slope (20-30 °), along which you then need to climb under the summit tower of Testa di Lione (2-3 hours from Abruzzi Hut).

Further to the right, traverse without climbing (it is possible to arrange insurance, you need pitons), you should go around the rocky bastion of Testa di Lione and go to the Col di Lione pass (Col di Lione, another 1 hour). The climb to the Matterhorn starts from here. On a wide, not clearly expressed rocky ridge, one must move up to the hut “Capanna di Carrel” (“Capanna di Carrel”), clearly visible from here. As you climb, the ridge gradually narrows and becomes steeper; ropes and chains are hung here. Rock climbing is difficult in places. Insurance at stationary points. The upper part of the ridge up to the hut is completely fixed. From the pass to it 2-3 hours. Attention!

Rockfalls and large landslides are possible in this area, it is recommended to pass it quickly. In the hut you can comfortably relax before climbing. The cost of an overnight stay is 15 euros, there is stationary gas, a constantly working walkie-talkie, warm blankets. It is recommended to start the assault on the summit the next day early in the morning (at 3-4 o'clock). The route is well equipped: all difficult sections are hung with chains, ropes, rope ladders. But do not flatter yourself: the difficulty threshold for all people is different, and it may well turn out that an unequipped site is quite difficult for you, especially in bad weather.

From the equipment it is recommended to have a set of short quickdraws, several long (1.5 m) loops, a set of stoppers, several rock hooks, a rock hammer and an ice ax. Crampons and a helmet will be required on the approaches to the route. First, the route was traversed along the left side of the ridge. Climbing from easy to medium difficulty. Having gained 300 m vertically, we find ourselves at the beginning of a long chain hanging along a 70-meter vertical wall (80-90 °). Several plaques are nailed to the base of the wall. Follow the chain to the ridge. Further along the rocks of medium steepness (45-60°, there are almost no stationary points) reach the top of Tindal Peak - a rocky shoulder adjoining the Matterhorn from the south side.

From the hut 3-4 hours. Further, without climbing along the narrow snow-rocky ridge of Tyndall Peak (attention, cornices!) You need to go under the base of the summit tower of the Matterhorn. Between it and Tyndall peak there is a gap 2-3 m wide and at least a hundred deep. This place is called Enjambe, here you need to jump over. Insurance is organized at stationary points. The first few pitches from the base of the summit tower of the Matterhorn are not particularly difficult and are usually climbed with simultaneous belay (50-70°).

There are few stationary points, 1-2 per rope. Further the slope becomes steeper (90-100°) and the climbing becomes more difficult. The last 200 m to the top are fixed with "railings". Descent along the ascent path. The main recommendation will be the following: soberly calculate your strength and do not relax! Despite its popularity, the route is quite difficult and dangerous. The presence of railings and points of insurance on the route should not be misleading - it is always more reliable to organize your own insurance than to use someone else's (say, stationary "railings" are regularly frayed).

The route is long enough, if possible, you need to move simultaneously. Many descriptions mention an average climb time of 6-8 hours. This is possible only with well-coordinated work in conjunction, simultaneous movement all the way, good weather and excellent physical shape. If you are not a professional, count on 12-16 hours and be prepared for a cold sleepover. Good luck!

The Matterhorn is one of the most recognizable peaks in the world. If you have never been lucky enough to visit the border of Switzerland and Italy, you will still easily recognize the characteristic outlines of the mountain in the form of a tetrahedral pyramid. The Matterhorn peak annually attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists who come just to look at it and about 3 thousand climbers who want to conquer the peak. However, the Matterhorn in Switzerland is not only beautiful, but also dangerous. People regularly die here, so before the trip you need to carefully prepare and evaluate your strength. In any case, no tourist will be left disappointed.

General information

South face of the Matterhorn

Let's start with the information - where is the Matterhorn mountain. The attraction is located in the Pennine Alps and passes between two states - Switzerland and Italy. The slope in the south is located on Italian territory, the other three sides belong to Switzerland.

The Italian name of the mountain - Monte Cervino - comes from the French Mons Servinus and means "forest mountain", and from German the name "Matterhorn" is translated as "meadow" (Matte) and "peak" (Horn)

Interesting fact! The peak is located at a distance from other peaks of the Alps, this makes it possible to see the mountain and feel its magnetism.

The height of the Matterhorn is almost 4.48 km (4478 m to be exact). Outwardly attractive hides steep slopes and rockiness. That is why for a long time the attraction in Switzerland did not submit to climbers.

In the mountain profile, two peaks are clearly visible, located a hundred meters from each other. The state border passes directly between the peaks, respectively, one is called Italian, and the second - Swiss.

Good to know! The height of the Italian peak is only 1 m lower than the Swiss one.

The mountain in the Alps is notable for its strict, geometric proportions. Outwardly, it resembles an irregularly shaped pyramid, the edges of which are located in the directions of the cardinal points.

In the cold season, the mountain is completely covered with glaciers and snow. However, in summer the sun melts the snow, a small amount remains only on the eastern and northeastern side.

Good to know! The mountain in the Alps is characterized by steep slopes, for this reason rockfalls and avalanches often occur here.

Practical information

Zermatt

Tourists stop in one of the villages:

• in Switzerland - the town of Zermatt;
• in Italy - the settlement of Breuil-Cervinia.

The Theodul Pass separates the villages. Ski slopes are laid at an altitude of 4 km, but real extreme sportsmen and professionals prefer to climb higher in the Alps.

Historical facts

At the foot of the Matterhorn in the Alps, the first people settled during the Roman period. In the 1st century BC. Theodul Pass was used for trade communication between the north and south of Europe.

Interesting to know! The ancient tribes did not dare to settle on the slopes, because they believed that this was the dwelling place of the devil. Most likely, the belief arose due to the awesome appearance of the mountain and frequent avalanches.

In the 19th century, a movement of like-minded people appeared in England who wanted to conquer the most dangerous slopes. Groups of climbers went to all the slopes of the Alps, but even Mont Blanc was conquered by people faster than the Matterhorn peak. Those wishing to reach the peak gathered at the foot many times, but did not dare to climb.

Climbing the Matterhorn

Given the peculiarities of the geographical location of the mountain - in Switzerland and Italy - there are two ways to travel - from the territory of each of the states.

Due to its unusual shape - almost an equilateral pyramid - the mountain has been attracting climbers for many centuries and has a rich history with unusual and tragic facts. Hiking route on the slopes requires:

• rope skills;
• skills of movement on rocky terrain;
• ability to organize insurance;
• compliance with safety rules.

Before climbing, it is necessary to take a training course, and on the way to use the help of a guide.

It is important! From the Swiss side, the path is as simple as possible, cables are hung in the most dangerous places, insurance is organized, huts are equipped for rest, if bad weather catches tourists during the ascent, you can wait it out in an emergency shelter.

The height of the mountain in the Alps is about 4.48 km, so the issue of preparing for the conquest of the Matterhorn peak in Switzerland should be worked out in advance and make sure that you have enough strength and endurance for this difficult test. You should also pay attention to acclimatization in the mountains. In good weather, you can meet dozens of tourists on narrow sections of climbing routes, so the guides recommend that you exercise maximum caution and attention.

What should be feared

The main danger of the Matterhorn in Switzerland is unpredictable weather. The clouds here are low, enveloping the peaks, forming a stable, thick fog. Sometimes, at a distance of one meter, nothing is visible. The weather can change within a quarter of an hour. In addition to fog, climbers face storms and snowfalls. Given the speed with which the weather changes, finding shelter from the weather is very difficult.

Rockfalls are the most dangerous in the Alps. In some cases, they are provoked by tourists, and sometimes stones are torn off under the weight of glaciers. Experts call this fact surprising - despite numerous avalanches and stone collapses, the mountain has not changed its appearance for centuries.

What do you need to climb

If you wish, you can take a camera or camcorder.

Climbing history

The Alps have always attracted travelers, today all the slopes have submitted to man, but the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland has become the last on this list. Beginner climbers have long had a superstitious fear of a mountain in the Alps.

First successful ascent

A significant event was recorded in 1865, when Whymper developed and implemented a new plan for climbing the southern slope of the mountain. An attempt to climb to the peak on June 21 turned out to be unsuccessful - a strong rockfall blocked the path. Another attempt - on June 14 - was successful, but overshadowed by the death of climbers.

Climbing in Switzerland was made by: Edward Whymper, Scot Lord Francis Dushlas, Charles Hudson, Robert Douglas Hadow, father Peter Togvalders, his son and Michel Crozat.

The group began climbing the Hornli slope, in his notes Whymper noted that the path was easier than the route along the Italian slope. However, as we moved to the top, the mountain became steeper and more dangerous. Edward Whymper and Michel Croz were the first to reach the goal. A tragic incident happened when the group was descending - Hadow, Croze, Hudson and Douglas fell off and crashed. Only three climbers were buried, as Douglas' body was not found on the glacier. The bodies of the remaining three men are buried in Zermatt.

Jean Antoine Carrel

Who else managed to climb:

• July 1865 - Jean-Antoine Carrel;
• in 1871 - Lucy Walker;
• August 1931 - Franz Schmid and Tony Schmid.

Rise to the top today

Today, routes of varying difficulty levels have been laid to the Matterhorn peak in the Alps, but all of them are designed for trained climbers who are familiar with climbing techniques. It is possible to climb at any time of the year, but it will not be an easy walk.

In the warm season, it is best to climb the Hornli ridge, the route has an AD difficulty rating. Safety ropes are installed throughout the ascent. From Zermatt to Lake Schwarzsee. From here you will have to follow on foot to the Hörnli hut, here climbers spend the night. The next day, the further journey must be started no later than 3-30 in the morning, only in this case you can have time to go down before dusk.

Good to know! If an emergency arises on the road, the Solvay Hut is at the service of tourists.

Other routes:

Lion's Ridge

• Lion's Ridge - AD difficulty;
• Zmutt Ridge - difficulty D;
• the northern part of the mountain - in the Alps, this part is considered the most difficult and has a difficulty of TD +.

Statistics: 70% of climbers climb the Hörnli route, 25% climb the Lyon ridge. The remaining routes account for no more than 5% of all ascents.

tragic cases

Despite the fact that safety ladders are laid along the entire route, climbers die every year on the Matterhorn. Main reasons:

• unpreparedness of tourists;
• choosing a difficult route;
• a large influx of people wishing to climb the peak;
• natural disasters - convergence of glaciers and rockfalls.

Statistics! Between 1981 and 2012, 223 climbers died on the slopes of the Matterhorn, of which 203 fell and crashed. In total, the mountain claimed the lives of more than 500 people. This peak is officially recognized as the deadliest among the peaks in the Alps.

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Now you know where the Materhorn peak is located, how to organize a trip and climb to your cherished goal. The journey will surely become one of the most unforgettable and emotionally rich in your life.

Who likes to tickle your nerves - watch a short video.

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