Before talking about money, let's remember that 2014 and 2015 were the worst years on Everest: they did their "dirty deed", and during this period only one small bunch of climbers climbed from the southern, Nepalese side to the top of the world:.

After such terrible events (when 40 people died on Everest in two years), it is safe to say that at the top of the world there is now no such thing as "the safest route of climbing" ...

However, 2016 brought the mountaineering industry back on track at the highest peak in the world, and that season was already the second most successful ascents: 641 people reached the summit.

But a new record was set by the 2019 season: this time, 871 climbers climbed to the summit in the spring, of which 641 climbers climbed from the side of Nepal and 230 climbers from the Tibetan side!
All ascents were carried out within 11 days (without interruption).

Undoubtedly, the main topic for us was the ascent to the top of five Ukrainian climbers, who climbed in three different expeditions:

• - planned to climb Everest (from the northern, Tibetan side) along a standard route using oxygen tanks and the help of Sherpas.
  Consisting of: Valentin Sipavin (Kharkov) - group leader, Pavel Sidorenko (Kharkov), Vitaly Kozubsky (Kiev), Ekaterina Klenova (Russia)
  

  Now let's briefly talk about the state of the financial side of the issue:

  Overall, prices for the upcoming 2020 season are up from 2019; The key element in the price change has become.

  In other words, the trend of an increase in the minimum and maximum prices still persists.
  The average estimate was influenced by the rise in prices from China, where climbers will have to pay 58% more for a permit than it was last year.
  Also, several highly paid travel companies have entered the market, providing their clients with a VIP service.

  For example, the travel company Seven Summit Treks has announced its unique offer for VIP clients: “Platinum Everest Expedition 2020”. The cost of participation in the expedition under this program is 160,000 US dollars!
  Note that up to this point the maximum prices are.
  Himex, which has organized expeditions for many years at prices of $ 55,000 to $ 60,000, has now set a price tag of $ 70,000.
  At the same time, Nepalese travel companies, which in past seasons asked for $ 32,000 for participation in the expedition, have now set a price tag of $ 38,000 for the 2020 season.
  Thus, the minimum price offer has increased from 28,000 to 32,000 dollars, in other words, it is still cheaper to climb Everest with a Nepalese travel agency.

  As for the question of which side is the best in terms of pricing, Tibet still wins over Nepal, although this gap is narrowing very quickly.

  In terms of safety, people die on both sides of Everest, and most deaths are now associated primarily with the inexperience of the climbers themselves, and not because of which tour operator the climber chose.

  However, despite such an increase in prices, as before, climbing from Tibet remains in the ranks of the cheapest offers, of course, with the exception of the most eminent Western travel companies.
  Thus, the average price of a regular, low and medium-budget expedition to Mount Everest for one participant is $ 42,500 if you ascend from Nepal, with a maximum price of $ 67,000; and US $ 43,875 if you climb to the top from the Tibet side, with a maximum price of US $ 85,000.

  In general, the price range for the expedition ranges from $ 32,000 to $ 130,000.

  The most expensive expedition cost is fixed at around 160,000 US dollars, such a price offer for sophisticated gourmets can be offered by Seven Summit Treks.
  Slightly cheaper, for 130,000 US dollars (), customers can go up the mountain at International Mountain Guides, Furtenbach, 7 Summit Club, RMI.

  Ultimately, over the past five years, travel companies have increased the cost of Everest expeditions by 6% from Nepal and 12% from China.

  Recently, many inexpensive Nepalese tour operators have established themselves in this market, competing on price, but now they also understand that they are losing a lot of money and are starting to raise prices.
  On the other side of the mountain, China, also does not want to stay away from such a large cash flow, and is looking for new ones,

  Everest commercial climbing works like any other competitive market, where the quantity and quality of the offer is driven by the demand and the capabilities of the clients.
  From year to year, more and more climbers from India and China come to Everest, gradually displacing traditional climbers from Europe and the USA.

  As a result, if we predict the development of this market for the next five years, then we can assume that, regardless of which side of Everest you choose for the expedition, the price of participation will increase more and more.

  It is worth noting that now on the sidelines of the government of Nepal there are rumors about a possible increase in the cost of permits to Everest from 2020 from the current $ 11,000 to $ 15,000 for each climber. But for now, this remains only a rumor, and in this review we will not take into account this possible price.

  So, for ascents from the North, Chinese side:

  In 2020, the Chinese government raised the cost of climbing Everest permits for a team of four or more climbers from $ 9,950 to $ 15,800 per person on the team - a 58% increase.
  At the same time, China essentially banned solo ascents to Everest and ascents in small groups ( Last year, the cost of a permit for a team of 1 to 3 people, from the Chinese side, was $ 19,500 for each person in the team! But this price included: transportation from the starting point to the base camp, hotels, a liaison officer, a garbage fee, five yaks for the hike to the base camp and four yaks for the pod from the base camp.).

  In addition, there is also an additional charge of $ 200 per person per day for time spent in Lhasa.
  Further, if you want to take a Nepalese Sherpa to the ascent from the Chinese side, then you will have to pay an additional $ 3300 for a "work permit" for each Sherpa, plus pay them at least $ 5000 for work.

  And most of these climbers are climbing on commercial expeditions.
  Only a very small part of climbers (literally a few) undertake solo ascents or ascents as independent, non-profit groups.

  

  When climbing on their own, the following costs are borne by climbers:

  
  
  • buying air tickets to Kathmandu;
  • purchase of provisions for at least 6 weeks of the expedition
  • flight to Lukla or Lhasa
  • hiring porters and sherpas to transport cargo to the base camp
  • setting up and equipping your base camp
  • self-cooking
  • independent provision of weather forecasts
  • independent equipment of high-altitude camps
  • rent of existing, fixed handrails (or self-hitching of your own)
  • self-transfer of the necessary equipment to high-altitude camps
  • purchase (rent) of oxygen cylinders and regulators
  • after the ascent, hiring porters to transport the goods back from the base camp

  If in this generalized list (and he does not disclose smaller costs), the climber can see the savings in comparison with commercial expeditions, then, in general, everything turns the other way around: the costs of solo ascent increase from about $ 15,000 compared to commercial expeditions. It is also worth considering the incredibly increasing physical difficulty of such solo ascents.

  In general, the cost of purchasing permits, visas, routing, delivery of goods, insurance, for example, for a team of six people will cost $ 13,000 for each team member at today's prices.
  But, if it is one person, the fee will increase to $ 35,000 and even more.

  Equipment, food, tents and other public elements of the expedition for each of the participants will cost about $ 25,000 (this price includes oxygen tanks and sherpas).
  This amount also corresponds to the solo ascent.

  Thus, in a team ascent, the minimum total cost of climbing Mount Everest for each of the team members will be from $ 38,000-40,000.

  For a solo ascent, this minimum amount rises to $ 60,000.

  Therefore, at present, many of the independent teams or solo climbers are teaming up with other similar non-profit groups to share in the expenses of expeditions, if, of course, their plans for the ascent coincide.
  But in any case, the transfer of equipment to the base camp and payment of permits are included in the ascent plans of any group, and in this case it is much easier to unite with other participants.

  Also, you can team up and hire one group of Sherpas and cooks for several simultaneous expeditions.

  

  Thus, depending on the option of hiring Sherpas and cooks (and at least 2 Sherpas and one cook should participate in the expedition), the cost of climbing Mount Everest increases to:

  $ 55,000 in case of team ascent
  $ 85,000 in case of night climbing (with own hiring of sherpas and cooks)

  This is only the main, but not the full part of the cost of climbing Mount Everest.
  Personal and incidental expenses are not included here.

  

  Below we provide a list of the required costs in case of a non-commercial ascent of Mount Everest from Nepal in 2020 prices.

  (But still, despite such a detailed list of costs, all cost items are not taken into account here, for example, there is no price for an insurance policy ...)

  Personal expenses on the way to Nepal from $ 9,500 - $ 17,000, including:

  
  
  • Flights: from $ 1,500 to $ 7,000 depending on the class and route of the flight, as well as depending on the amount of excess baggage. According to statistics, climbers most often use the services of airlines in Thailand, Turkey, Qatar and East China.
  • Transportation from Kathmandu to Lukla: $ 350 round trip per person. Some climbers prefer trekking on foot, which takes about a week for experienced people (from Kathmandu to base camp). The cost of such a passage varies from 400 to 1000 $ (including overnight stays, meals and assistance from porters on the route).
  • Hotel and food in Kathmandu and Luklu: from $ 300 to $ 700 depending on living conditions
  • Nepalese Visa: $ 100
  • Medical vaccinations: $ 200
  • Personal inventory (gear, clothing, sleeping bags, etc.): up to $ 7000

  Road to Base Camp: from $ 1250 to $ 1800, including:

  
  
  • Transportation of cargo by yaks and / from the Base Camp: $ 40 per yak for one day of crossing - price for 70 kg of cargo. The minimum hire for a team is 4 yaks for 4 days - or $ 640. Change 2017 (From China, the cost of a yak: $ 300 per yak per day)
  • Cargo transportation by porters to / from the Base Camp: $ 20 per carrier / sherpa per day - price for 27 kilograms of cargo. Minimum hire for a team - 3 porters for 6 days - or $ 360 Change 2017
  • Tips and food during the transition to the Base Camp: from $ 20 to $ 100 per person per day. For 7 days of trekking - from $ 140 to $ 700
  • National Park entrance fee - $ 100 per team

  Price for climbing Mount Everest: from $ 18,000 to $ 27,800, including

  
  
  • Liaison officer participation: $ 3000 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) Change 2017
  • Tour operator fee - $ 2500 per team (usually included in the cost of travel agency services) Change 2017
  • Compulsory participation in the ascent of each climber, one mountain guide - Sherpas - $ 4000 from each climber - ()
  • Base Camp medical service fee: $ 100 per person
  • Permit for the ascent: $ 11,000 per person in the team, regardless of the number of team members (). From the side of China, the cost of a permit: $ 15,800 for each in a team of 4 or more people ().
  • Security deposit: $ 4000 from the team (returned after the team took out their expeditionary garbage from Everest (but not always returned ...). From China, garbage tax in the amount of $ 4000 from the team ()
  • Khumbu Icefall Sherpa Job (Icefall Doctors Team): $ 2500 per team or $ 600 per person Change 2016
  • Sherpas' work laying the railing above the Khumbu Icefall: $ 200 per person Change 2018
  • Weather forecast: from $ 0 to $ 1000
  • Sacred Pooja Ceremony (Prayer for Successful Ascent): $ 300

  High-altitude camps: from $ 3800 to $ 8800 including:

  
  
  • Arrangement of tents for high-altitude camps (bed, kitchen, toilet, warehouse): 4 high-altitude camps for 3 people: $ 3000
  • Work of cooks and chefs during 6 weeks of expedition time: $ 5000
  • Burner food and fuel for 6 weeks expedition time: $ 800 per person

  Climbing: from $ 2,200 to $ 14,000, including:

  
  
  • Oxygen system: from $ 50 to $ 550 for one cylinder (at least 5 cylinders are required for the ascent = from $ 250 to $ 2700) - the price does not include the bringing of oxygen cylinders by the Sherpas to the high-altitude camps.
  • Oxygen mask: $ 450
  • Oxygen Regulator: $ 450
  • High Altitude Sherpa Job as Personal Escort: $ 5000
  • Delivery of oxygen points by sherpas along the ascent route: $ 2000
  • Payment for Sherpas in case of their ascent to the summit of Everest from $ 250 (small training on the route), up to $ 2000 (per person when climbing the summit)
  • First aid kit for the ascent: $ 500 - 2000

  Other expenses: from $ 8,500 to $ 33,000, including

  
  
  • - the price is determined depending on the height of the evacuation and the place of landing Change 2016
  • Evacuation without using a helicopter: from $ 70 to $ 500 Change 2017
  • Medical insurance: $ 500 Change 2016
  • Insurance in case of cancellation of the expedition (for any reason: from medical to force majeure) - $ 3000
  • Satellite phone (personal) from $ 1000 to $ 3000 depending on the model
  • Payment for communication services: $ 1000
  • Sherpa Equipment Payment: $ 0 - $ 2000 Change 2016
  • Insurance of Sherpas participating in the expedition: from $ 1000 ()

  TOTAL: for independent climbing Everest You will need costs in the amount of: $ 70,000 (for experienced climbers who have already climbed Everest) and from about $ 45,000 - $ 60,000 for climbers participating in a group ascent

  Recall that in the case of participation in a commercial expedition, the average cost is approximately $ 43,000 (when organizing the ascent by Nepalese agencies). The maximum reaches $ 130,000 (when organizing the ascent by foreign agencies).

  Over the past decades, such large Western tour operators as Adventure Consultants, Alpine Ascents (AAI), Jagged Globe, Himalayan Experience (Himex), International Mountain Guides (IMG) and others, have lifted hundreds of climbers to the summit of Everest at prices ranging from 40,000 to 65,000 US dollars for the "All Inclusive" package.

  But times are changing. In the past few years, there has been intense competition from Nepalese travel companies, in which Sherpas take part, who account for dozens of successful ascents to the top of the world. They are much more modest in terms of requests compared to premium western mountain guides, which can range from $ 10,000 to $ 25,000.
  And given the lower salaries and base camp assistants and sherpas on the route, Nepalese tour operators can afford to cut from half to a third of the price offered by Western companies.

  So, in 2014, the Nepalese company Seven Summites Treks offered a place in the expedition to Everest for only $ 18,000. In 2019, they already offer $ 38,000 for a place in the team when climbing from Nepal, although the real price of services is apparently no higher than $ 30,000.

  Many Nepalese sherpas - climbers now have the UIAGM international mountain guide certificate and have climbed more Himalayan peaks in their careers than Western climbers.

  Another famous Nepalese company, Dreamers Destination, has increased the price for its services from $ 36,000 to $ 50,000.
  At the same time, one of the cheapest way to climb Mount Everest is the Makaluextreme service: only $ 35,000 for ascents from the south side.

  The latest example on this list is TAGnepal, run by Tendi Shepa. He is an IFMGA / UIAGM certified mountain guide with 11 successful ascents to Everest and other peaks in the Himalayas, Alps, Andes and China.
  In addition, Tendy is a highly qualified specialist in mountain rescue, who took training courses in Switzerland in 2011.
  For the 2019 season, his company is offering a seat on the Everest expedition for $ 52,000 from Tibet and $ 55,000 for an ascent from Nepal.

  Well, if you have a lot of money and you are used to full personal service, then for your services such companies as Alpenglow and Fuenbach can offer prices from 85,000 US dollars to 110,000 dollars per climber, which is two to three times higher than the average price for north side.
  In addition, if you wish to have your own western mountain guide who will only accompany you to the summit and back, the cost of the expedition increases to 130,000 US dollars.

  For example, we will give the current prices for climbing Mount Everest in various travel agencies (these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to and from Kathmandu, personal expenses and expenses for unforeseen situations):

  In general, the total cost of the Everest expedition ranges from $ 30,500 to $ 85,000, depending on the tour operator and the services provided.
  But even $ 85,000 is not the maximum amount for the expedition. If you wish to climb the summit with a personal western guide (certified professional mountain guide not from Nepal or China), for example, the tour operator Seven Summit Treks
  will bid $ 160,000 and tour operators International Mountain Guides and tour operator RMI will bid $ 130,000!

  Prices in 2019 and ascents carried out in 2013, 2016 and 2017

  (these prices do not include the purchase of personal equipment, transfers to / from Kathmandu, personal expenses and expenses for unforeseen situations)

  Company	Number of climbers in the expedition	South wall. guides - Nepalese Sherpas *	South wall. guides - foreign climbers *	North wall	Ascents completed in 2013 and 2016(2014 and 2015 on Everest were practically no ascents)
  Average price of Western companies		$44 000	$67 000	$55 000
  Average price of Nepalese companies		$40 000	N / A	$35 000
  Adventure Consultants	8-12	N / A	$65,000	N / A	283 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides). has been working since 1990 2013: 7 out of 10 clients, 5 guides, 21 Sherpas 2016: 5 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 16 Sherpas 2017: 8 out of 15 clients, 3 guides, 19 sherpas 2018: 6 clients, 2 guides, 13 sherpas
  Adventure Peaks	10-12	48,400	N / A	$38 250	2013: 4 out of 8 clients 2016: 6 out of 6 clients 2017: 3 out of 4 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  Adventure Global	6-10	39,500	N / A	43,000	2016: 3 clients, 4 sherpas 2017: 0 clients out of 2, 0 sherpas
  Altitude junkies	8-12	N / A	N / A	$42 500	2013 (North): 3 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 7 Sherpas 2016 (South): 5 out of 7 clients, 1 guide, 11 Sherpas. In 2017 - 2018 does not conduct expeditions to Everest
  AlpenGlow	4-8	N / A	N / A	$85,000	2013: 1 in 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 2 guides, 3 sherpas 2017: 1 client, 2 guides, 4 sherpas 2018: 5 out of 9 clients, 2 guides, 5 sherpas
  Alpine Ascents International	8-16	N / A	$70,000	N / A	281 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1992. 78% of successful ascents since 2004 2013: 13 out of 16 clients, 3 guides, 21 Sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas 2017: 5 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 3 guides, 8 sherpas
  Arnold coster	4-8	$44 500	N / A	36,500	2017: 2 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 3 sherpas
  Benegas Brothers / Mountain Madness	9-12	N / A	$75 000	N / A	2018: 1 client, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  Climbing The Seven Summits	9-12	44,000	$62 000	N / A	2018: 7 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas
  Furtenbach Adventures	6-10	N / A	$64 000	$64 000	2016 - the first season for the company on Everest 2016 (South): 5 clients, 6 Sherpas 2017: 7 out of 8 clients, 1 guide, 8 sherpas 2018: 5 clients, 6 sherpas
  Himalayan Experience (Himex)	20-30	N / A	$70,000	N / A	380 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) in operation since 1994, 0 - 96% of successful ascents 2013: 12 out of 12 clients, 2 out of 2 guides, 12 Sherpas 2016: 5 out of 6 clients, 1 out of 1 guides, 6 Sherpas 2017: 4 out of 9 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2018: 2 clients, 1 guide, 2 sherpas
  High Adventure Expeditions	4-8	$46,000	N / A	N / A	no information
  International Mountain Guides	12-20	$46,000	$59,000	N / A	482 general ascents (clients, sherpas, guides) have been operating since 1991. 85% of successful ascents since 2006 2013: 16 out of 31 clients, 4 guides, 24 Sherpas 2016: 18 out of? client, 2 guides, 26 sherpas 2017: 20 out of 29 clients, 3 guides, 32 Sherpas 2018: 12 clients, 3 guides, 14 sherpas
  Jagged globe	8-12	N / A	$57,000	N / A	2013: 10 out of 10 clients, 3 guides, 11 Sherpas 2016: 4 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas 2017: 13 out of 20 clients, 13 sherpas 2018: 4 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
  Kobler & Partner	8-12	N / A	$57,500	$62,500	2017: 9 out of 11 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas
  Madison mountaineering	8-12	N / A	$65,000	N / A	2016: 7 out of 9 clients, 5 guides, 15 Sherpas 2017: 8 out of 12 clients, 4 guides, 14 Sherpas 2018: 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 sherpas
  Mountain trip	4-8	N / A	$67,000	N / A	2013: 1 in 4 clients, 0 guides, 4 sherpas 2016: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas 2017: 4 out of 6 clients, 1 guide, 6 sherpas 2018: 2 out of 2 clients, 1 guide, 4 sherpas
  Mountain Professionals	4-8	N / A	$65,000	N / A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 1 guide, 5 sherpas
  Benegas brothers	4-8	N / A	$67,000	N / A	2017: 3 out of 5 clients, 2 guides, 5 sherpas
  RMI	4-10	N / A	$74,000	N / A	2013: 0 out of 3 clients, 2 guides, 3 Sherpas
  Peak freaks	8-15	$49,500	N / A	N / A	2013: 4 out of 8 clients, 2 guides, 8 Sherpas No expeditions to Mount Everest in 2017
  7 Summits Club	20	N / A	$65,000	$70,000	2013: 9 out of 13 clients, 1 guide, 9 sherpas 2016: 15 out of 22 clients, 4 guides, 12 sherpas 2017: 11 out of 12 clients, 1 guide, 10 sherpas 2018: 20 out of 22 clients, 6 guides, 33 sherpas
  Summit climb	5-20	$38,500	N / A	$32,000	227 total ascents (both north and south, including clients, guides and sherpas) 2013: 12 out of 12 on the South side and 11 out of 14 on the North side 2016: 4 out of 8 customers (south), 10 out of 11 customers (north) 2017: 3 out of 16 clients from the South and 6 out of 10 from the North 2018: 4 out of 8 clients from the South and 10 out of 11 from the North
  Vertical Tour	5-20	N / A	N / A	$46,000	no information
  Nepalese travel agencies
  Adventure ascent	40,000	N / A	N / A	N / A
  Arnold coster	N / A	N / A	38,500A	N / A
  Ascent himalaya	45,000	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017 (South): 8 out of 9 clients, 9 Sherpas
  Asian trekking	20	$36,000	N / A	$32,000	2013 (South): 14 out of 26 customers, 21 Sherpas, 2013 (North): 5 out of 5 customers, 4 Sherpas, 2017: 10 out of 26 clients, 15 Sherpas 330 total ascents (clients, Sherpas) since 2003
  Arun Treks (India Transcend Adventures)	N / A	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017 (South): 16 out of 25 clients, 21 Sherpas
  Dreamers Destinations	8-12	$42 000	N / A	$40 000	2017: 4 out of 5 clients, 4 sherpas
  Seven Summits Treks	30-50	$38,000	N / A	$30,000	2017: 10 out of 23 clients, 5 Sherpas
  Satori	N / A	N / A	N / A	N / A	2017: 7 out of 10 clients, 6 Sherpas
  Shangri-La Nepal Trek	30-50	45,000	N / A	N / A
  TAGnepal	N / A	N / A	$55,000	$52,000	2: 1 ratio of clients to certified guides; 1: 1 ratio of clients to non-certified guides
  Expedition Himalaya	5-10	35,000	N / A	35,000	2017: 1 out of 6 clients, 1 sherpa
  Highland Expedition	40,000	N / A	N / A	N / A
  Himalayan ascent	5-10	42,500	N / A	N / A	2013: 4 clients, 6 Sherpas, 2017: 4 clients, 6 sherpas
  Makaluextreme	1-30	35,000	N / A	N / A	2017: 5 clients out of 6 and 5 Sherpas out of 6 2018: 4 clients out of 5, 5 guides, 1 sherpas

  .

  ). It is located in the Himalayas on the Mahalangur-Himal ridge. The shape of the mountain resembles a three-sided pyramid. The southern peak of Everest has a height of 8,760 meters and is located on the border of Nepal (Sagarmatha National Park) and the Chinese part of Tibet, the northern peak is 8,848 meters high in China. The southern slope of Chomolungma is so steep that snow does not hold on to it. On all sides, the mountain range is covered with glaciers, ending at an altitude of 5 kilometers.

  The climatic conditions in the Everest region are extremely harsh. Apart from the winds, the speed of which reaches 55 meters per second, those wishing to conquer the mountain peak will encounter low air temperatures on their way. In winter, it can drop to minus 60 ° С, and in the warmest summer month (July), the air warms up to 0 degrees at best.

  It would seem that summer conditions on Everest are quite tolerable, but do not forget that at this time the monsoon winds are raging, bringing with them a huge amount of precipitation. Summer snowstorms on Everest are so strong that it becomes impossible even for experienced climbers to continue climbing.

  

  How long does it take to climb Mount Everest?

  Before you set off to conquer Everest, carefully weigh your strengths and capabilities. It will take you quite a long time to climb. Expeditions for non-professional athletes are organized in May, the safest month in terms of climatic conditions. In total, the ascent to Everest will take about two months, and taking into account the route to the Base Camp and possible unforeseen situations, the total duration of the trip can be over three and a half months.

  

  How to get to base camp?

  If you are not an experienced climber, behind whom dozens of conquered peaks, perhaps, you should limit yourself to the ascent only to the base camp, located at an altitude of 5300 meters. Such a trip is quite safe and at a cost much cheaper than a full climb to the top of the mountain. However, most people aspiring to Everest want, if not to reach the very top, then move as far as possible. Unfortunately, no one can give you an absolute guarantee of climbing to the top due to the climatic factors described above and other circumstances, due to which the expedition may be interrupted.

  

  Any expedition to Everest begins with trekking to the base camp. There are two such camps in total. One of them (North) is located in China in Tibet, the second (South) - in Nepal. In order to get to the Northern Camp, you will need permission from the Chinese government, which is very difficult and quite expensive to obtain. Therefore, the vast majority of travelers prefer to start climbing Everest from the South Base Camp. You can get there in 11-14 days. The journey will start from - Kathmandu, from there the group is taken to Luklu by a small plane (the flight takes about 40 minutes). The remaining 50 kilometers to the Base Camp will have to go on foot. Tourist groups travel 4-5 hours a day and cover the entire route in about 9-10 days, depending on preparation and weather conditions.

  

  How is the climbing Everest going?

  So, you got to Kathmandu, and from there to the South Base Camp. Let us remind you that this route will take about two weeks. A natural question of many tourists: why a route only 50 kilometers long takes about 10 days. This is due to the fact that the base parking is located at an elevation of more than 5300 meters, and the beginning of the route is at an altitude of just over 2000 meters. In order to prevent health problems, the climb should be gradual, so that the body acclimatizes and gets used to life in conditions of lack of oxygen. Just think, at the top of Everest, in order to take just one step, a person has to take up to 15 breaths. Of course, in the transition to the base camp, the conditions are not so harsh, but you should not neglect the safety rules.

  To pass the adaptation, the groups make acclimatization stops lasting 1-2 days for every thousand meters of ascent. At the same time, it is recommended to drink plenty of water and listen to the body's reaction in the most careful way. It is always better to go back for a short while than to overpower yourself and end up not reaching the goal.

  

  In the base camp, those who wish to go to the end will spend about a month, during which the necessary equipment will be prepared and tested, groups will be formed, and the body will adapt to mountain conditions.

  The ascent to the mountain top takes place in stages, with halts in high-altitude camps located at 5800 meters, 7000 meters, 7800 meters and 8300 meters. Moreover, having risen to a certain height, for the night, the group returns to a lower level, since spending the night at the maximum height of the day is very dangerous to health.

  In addition to the most experienced guides, the group is accompanied by representatives of the indigenous population - Sherpas. They perform essential functions: they help to carry equipment, fasten ropes and do other work that even trained athletes cannot do.

  

  It is worth noting that the ascent to the highest point of the mountain from the mark of 7900 meters is not always carried out, since there is a so-called "death zone" from where the bodies of dead climbers are not even evacuated. You can breathe here only with the help of an oxygen mask, and every step, without exaggeration, is given with great difficulty. If the group still gets to the top, after 20 minutes it will have to return so as not to replenish the sad lists of those who died on Everest.

  In addition to the lack of oxygen, other dangers await those wishing to conquer Everest. The main one is the avalanche, which always happens suddenly and has already claimed many lives. There is no protection from this phenomenon, and, as a rule, few manage to escape.

  Another common reason for the death of tourists is the harsh climate. Even experienced climbers have fallen prey to blizzards and low temperatures.

  Equipment malfunction is another reason people die on Everest. Breakage of insurance, breakdown of oxygen equipment - all this can lead to the most dire consequences.

  Remember that climbing the summit of Everest is not just a tourist route, but a risky and dangerous activity that requires serious preparation. During the two months that the ascent will last, you will live in the most extreme conditions. Not everyone can do that.

  

  How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?

  Let's note right away that climbing Mount Everest is one of the most expensive tourist activities. The average cost of a trip is at least 55-70 thousand US dollars, depending on how it is carried out: independently or as part of a commercial group. The second option is somewhat cheaper.

  The main costs for climbing in a group will consist of the following amounts:

  • 8,000-15,000 dollars - transportation and related expenses (flight to Nepal and back, flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and back, vaccinations, payment for hotels and meals);
  • 2,000-3,000 dollars - trekking to the base camp, which includes transportation of goods, meals, payment of passage through the National Park;
  • Climbing Mount Everest will cost $ 20,000-25,000 and involves the costs of the services of a liaison officer and doctors, salaries for guides and Sherpas, permission to climb ($ 11,000 per person), environmental fee ($ 4,000), route development, forecast tracking weather and other necessary expenses;
  • Parking in high-altitude camps - 4,000-8,000 dollars (food, service, equipment check);
  • Equipment - $ 3,000-15,000 (oxygen masks, tents, climbing equipment, first aid kit, etc.).

  In addition to the above, you should take into account unforeseen expenses and additional services that may be required during the ascent. These include:

  • Urgent evacuation by helicopter - from $ 100 at low altitudes to $ 20,000 at a serious altitude;
  • Communication services - from 1000 dollars;
  • Setting the flag - from $ 2,200 per sq. meter of canvas;
  • Tips - up to $ 2,000.

  Mostly Russian companies offer tours to and from the South Base Camp. For example, these services are offered:

  • Alpindustriya company.
  • "Himalayan glacier".
  • Center "Kailash" and many others.

  Climbing to the top of the mountain requires careful preparation, and associations of professional climbers in Russia and abroad can help you with this.

  

  Requirements for those who want to climb Everest

  The main requirement is the availability of free time and financial resources. Naturally, for a full-fledged ascent to the highest mountain of the planet, you will need excellent health, reliable equipment and climbing experience. Without the presence of any of these components, you can try to climb, but only at your own peril and risk. In any case, before starting the route, you will sign a paper stating that only you are responsible for yourself and in case of accidents you and your relatives will not have any claims to the organizers of the ascent.

  As for the equipment, not everyone has a complete set of professional alpine equipment. It is not necessary to purchase it, it is enough to agree on a lease. This should be done in advance so that it does not turn out that they cannot help you in the Base Camp.

  

  The conquest of Everest is the dream of many, but not everyone succeeds in fulfilling it. The mysterious and harsh summit of the world, where, according to the legends of local residents, the gods live, is obeyed only by the most hardy and courageous, ready to overcome not only nature, but also themselves.

  And we also have

  
  

  30 years ago, on May 4, 1982, the highest peak in the world Everest (Chomolungma) was first conquered by Soviet climbers - Vladimir Balyberdin and Eduard Myslovsky.

  The 13-year-old American teenager became the conqueror of Mount Everest. Jordan Romero climbed Mount Everest on May 22, 2010 in the company of his father and three guides.

  Belongs to the Nepalese spiritual teacher Bhakt Kumar Rai. He spent 32 hours at the highest peak in the world, 27 of them in meditation. Bhakta Kumar Rai used oxygen cylinder for only 11 hours.

  In 2001, the astonishing feat of climbing Mount Everest was accomplished by a blind American, Eric Weichenmeier. By that time, he had already conquered all the highest mountain peaks on all seven continents.

  In 1992, Frenchman Pierre Tardevelle skied down the slope of Everest. He left the southern summit, located at an altitude of 8571 meters, and covered three kilometers in three hours.

  In 1998, Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the summit on a snowboard.

  In 1988, Frenchman Jean-Marc Bovin made the first paragliding flight from the summit of Everest.

  In 1991, four extreme Englishmen flew over the summit from Nepal to Tibet in two balloons.

  In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit on a tandem glider.

  In May 2004, Italian Angelo D "Arrigo, for the first time in the history of aeronautics, flew on a hang glider over the summit of Everest.

  On May 14, 2005, the helicopter landed for the first time on the summit of Mount Everest. The unique flight was performed by Didier Delsalle, a Eurocopter test pilot, on a serial Eurocopter Ecureuil / AStar AS350 B3 helicopter.

  On October 4, 2008, the first ever parachute jump over Everest was made. The authors of the record were the representative of New Zealand Wendy Smith, Briton Holly Budge and Canadian with British citizenship Neil Jones. Extremals flew for about a minute in free fall, jumping out of an airplane over Everest at an altitude of about 9 thousand meters.

  Everest is the highest peak of the Earth. They tried to reach it more than once, but due to the danger of such an event, it ended, as a rule, with the death of the members of the expedition. Still, there was a man who succeeded. Who was the first to conquer Everest? Whoever he was, he was an amazingly brave and strong man. You will learn about him, as well as about the difficulties of climbing Everest in the article.

  Geographic features

  The height of the mountain peak, on the way to which several dozen climbers died, is 8,848 meters. It is located in the Himalayas. Even a child knows that it is very cold in the mountains. Here, the average temperature in January is about -36 ° C. Everest itself has the shape of a pyramid, its slopes are quite steep. On the south, there is almost no snow and firn (dense, recrystallized perennial snow). The strongest winds blow here. Their speed reaches 200 km / h.

  For comparison: the strongest wind in Russia over the past century was recorded on Kharlov Island in the Barents Sea. It was February 8, 1986. The wind speed was then 187 km / h. It is impossible to live in such conditions. In 1998, a terrible hurricane happened in Moscow. Eleven people died. About two hundred were injured. The wind speed that day reached 31 m / s or 3.6 km / h.

  Let's compare these figures with those recorded at the highest peak of the Earth - 200 km / h. Can a person really stay here even for a few minutes? Who was the first to conquer Everest? This was probably an extraordinary person with supernatural powers.

  Research

  As always, it all started with theoretical study. Indian topographer and mathematician Radhanat Sikdar established the location of the highest mountain peak. This was in the early fifties. The scientist was in India, 240 km from the subject of his study. A few years later, the geodetic service gave information about the height of Everest. They weren't entirely accurate. According to the conclusion of Indian scientists, the height was 8,839 meters. Perhaps it will not seem so important for a person far from science, but the surveyors argued for a long time, clarified, researched. Finally, they named the exact figure - 8 848.13 km.

  

  Extreme tourist route

  The first people to conquer Mount Everest proved that it can be done and still be alive. Before they did it, was recorded many deaths. "Who will be the first to conquer Everest?" - this question haunted the climbers for a long time. Each of them wanted to become a pioneer and go down in history.

  The first man to conquer Mount Everest more than sixty years ago. Much has changed since then. The mountains, of course, stand in the same place and are just as high. But climbing to the top is still dangerous. However, thanks to in-depth research, experts now know how to do it with less risk to life.

  The question of who was the first to conquer Everest has lost its relevance. Now they go to the Himalayan mountains for thrills. Such an excursion lasts about two months and costs more than 80 thousand dollars. Climb to the top in spring or autumn. At this time of the year, there are no monsoons, that is, steady winds that periodically change their direction.

  The tourist infrastructure is developing. In the XXI century, there are more and more people who want to climb the once inaccessible peak. There are even many hours of traffic jams and conflicts between climbers (almost like on the highways of megacities). Nevertheless, such a journey remains quite dangerous. The most difficult section is the one near Everest. Its length is 300 meters. The climbers dubbed the last home stretch "the longest mile on Earth."

  Much depends on the weather and equipment. Before going to the mountains, tourists are instructed, trained, prepared for several weeks. Experts have all this knowledge thanks to the pioneers. Their invaluable experience today allows thousands of those wishing to make a journey that was considered deadly half a century ago.

  

  First attempts

  Before Everest was conquered, about 20 expeditions took place. French climbers reached Annapurna. But from this mountain range to the highest peak is still far away. A little later, the British managed to achieve a greater result - they used oxygen on the way. In the 1920s, more than one climber died here. In 1924, Andrew Irwin and George Mallory attempted to conquer the summit. The body of the latter was discovered in the late nineties. Perhaps the English climbers managed to reach the summit. At least, this is the subject of controversy to this day.

  Among the daredevils, there were quite eccentric personalities. So, in 1934, a man went to the mountains without special equipment, believing that supernatural forces would help him achieve his goal. He died, having risen to a height of seven kilometers. This man's name was Maurice Wilson. The conquest of the highest mountain peak took place 20 years after his death. And it ended well. So, who conquered Everest first in the world?

  

  Edmund Hillary

  He did not possess supernatural powers, he was an ordinary person. Edmund Hillary was born in 1919. He was interested in mountaineering since childhood. Edmund made his first ascent at the age of 20. As a child, the future conqueror of Everest was very shy. He read a lot and dreamed of adventure. As a high school student, he started boxing, which gave him some confidence in his own abilities. And he started mountaineering at the age of 16.

  In 1951, Hillary participated in the British expedition to Mount Everest. But then the climbers did not reach their goal. After two years, Hillary again took part in the expedition. In the middle of the 20th century, the Chinese closed the road to Everest from the Tibetan side. The climbers set off from the direction of Nepal, whose government had nothing against mountain expeditions.

  

  Tenzing Norgay

  Of course, it is impossible for one person to conquer the mountain peak. We called the name of Edmund Hillary. But in reality, there were two discoverers. Hillary managed to get to Everest together with Tenzingem Norgay. It should be said that he was a very experienced climber. Perhaps it was thanks to him that Everest was conquered in 1953. Norgay later admitted that from the highest point on earth, an amazing view opens up - beautiful, wild and terrible.

  

  Women's expeditions began to storm Everest in the mid-seventies. And quite successfully. The first woman to conquer Mount Everest was a Japanese citizen Junko Tabei. This was in 1976. Four years later, Wanda Rutkiewicz from Poland climbed to the top. In 1990 - our compatriot Ekaterina Ivanova.

  A memorial stone to Russian climbers who did not return from the summit of Everest stands near the village of Dougla

  For 30 years after the first conquest of Everest by our compatriots on May 4, 1981, more than 50 people died on its slopes. Some of them, unburied, still lie at the top.

  We must hurry, a blizzard is coming, ”Prem warned.

  We will make it in time. What's the point of hanging around in a frozen hut heated with yak manure?

  A couple of minutes later, a blizzard covered us from behind with a spiky snowy hood.

  In the gray-grainy haze Natasha filmed Ksyusha in the spirit of Norstein: "The Hedgehog is looking for a Bear in the fog." We had fun, Prem was nervous and urged on. Soon the Hedgehog was completely out of sight in the lens, and Prem lost his way, but said nothing and went ahead.

  We followed in his footsteps. The path was covered with snow, we walked along the wet snow at the edge of the cliff, as if along a tightrope. There was an abyss below, but I did not see it: the earth and the sky were mixed, as in a mixer, and it was difficult to understand where one ends and another begins, where to put your foot and stick a stick so as not to fly away into this damn abyss. Hell began. I remembered relatives and friends, who must be sitting at the dacha by the fire now, frying kebabs and drinking wine, and here you are, like a complete fool, hanging on one leg over the abyss. And then no one will call your death "smart", because she flooded, and you were warned ...
  I sobbed, more likely even burst into tears from the hopelessness of the situation, but quickly slowed down so as not to waste energy on nonsense. An ingenious idea came to my mind to stop and wait for the blizzard to pass.
  But then Prem turned around and walked in the opposite direction. Together we went upstairs, the visibility became better. In the distance, they noticed a stone on which the wind fluttered multi-colored Buddhist flags with mantras. It is obvious that some person hung them there, and, therefore, we are not alone in this silent space. Prem went ahead and happily waved his hands at us

  Come here! I found my way!

  The blizzard is over. White fangs of the mountains appeared from the gray clouds, the abyss yawned.

  It's good that we didn't see this when we walked, - said Oksana, looking into the very mouth. - But the worst thing is the suspension bridges.

  No, the worst thing is to go down the stones that are overturning under your feet, - Natasha objected.

  I said nothing, because I love suspension bridges and descents. But I will never forget this monstrous road over an abyss in a blizzard.

  We were all wrong. Our "hellish" fears actually seemed to us a slight fright when the next day we reached the base camp of Everest (5364 m), spread out on the Khumbu glacier.

  PART 2

  Abnormal

  Do not go there, there is nothing to do there, - said our guys, who were returning from the base camp to spend the night in Gorak-Shep (5170 m) - the highest inhabited locality on the planet. - Better come with us, we will celebrate our ascent.

  Have you already managed to climb to the top?

  Are we crazy?

  During the season (March - end of May and August - October) about 200 "abnormal" people from all over the world gather in BC, who are preparing to conquer the highest point of the Earth. This year, due to the large influx of climbers, the government of Nepal even threatened to limit the flow of tourists so that there would be no more on the ascent to Everest - just think! - congestion.

  The route to Everest in Nepal is now the most popular among tourists - it's true. From Lukla itself there are numerous groups of experienced climbers and teapots like us to Namche, from where they are already scattering to different peaks. There are so many people here that traffic jams form on the narrow mountain paths - you have to let whole delegations pass or overtake where the road allows. Add to this the accompanying Sherpas and local residents who rush through the mountains with their trunks on their heads like mountain goats. I'm not even talking about all the shepherds who walk their donkeys, cows, yaks and dzhupi here (Russian tourists just have "assholes"). Prem said that jupi is a hybrid of cows that do not rise above 3000 meters, and yaks that do not descend below 5000. How they were bred is generally a mystery. And when these hairy "assholes" with horns walk towards you, you have to imprint yourself up the mountain, squeezing everything that you can squeeze into yourself, and depict a rock relief until they pass by.

  Many wealthy people, especially from Russia, in order not to push and not interfere with climbing others, prefer to conquer the base camp by helicopter. It costs 6 thousand dollars. Here they are photographed in the costumes of rock climbers, ice climbers, breathe thin mountain air and, full of impressions, fly back to Lukla or Kathmandu.

  But imagine that climbers, standing in an oxygen mask at an altitude of 8 thousand meters at the edge of a crevice, ask each other: “Who is the last one to climb Everest? I am behind you ”- I cannot. I also cannot imagine that the government of Nepal will voluntarily give up the several million dollars that the ascent of Sagarmatha (the Nepalese name for Everest) brings them. Otherwise, the climbers will carry their money to the Chinese and will climb Chomolungma (the Tibetan name for Everest) through the North Col - even cheaper.

  Here are some prices:

  The right to climb the Everest group of 20 people from Tibet costs 5.5 thousand dollars.

  The right to climb from Nepal costs 50 thousand dollars for 7 team members. The team can be increased by 5 people at a price of 10 thousand dollars for each additional tourist. For the right to pass the classic route through the South Col, you have to pay an additional 20 thousand (only 70 thousand dollars).

  For the final dash to the summit, you need to stock up on two oxygen cylinders (10-12 hours of work), which cost more than a thousand dollars and weigh 10 kg including a mask and a reducer. One or two spare cylinders usually set aside for the descent halfway to the summit. Climbers who have reached Everest, claimed that without oxygen, the speed decreases 3-4 times.

  So those who wish can already take the queue for the fall.

  Despite the heavy prices, many climbers choose to climb from the Nepalese side, believing that it is lighter, warmer and less blowing. The ascent to the summit itself starts from the South Col between Mount Everest and Lhotse from a height of 7900 meters. They usually leave at midnight. The climb is much faster than in the north.

  To the foot of the North side to the base camp (5000 m), they drive by jeeps. And then - on yaks to the forward base camp (6400 m). From the Rongbuk glacier, the ascent goes to the North Col (Chang-La pass) and from there, along the long northern ridge, leads to the top. The most dangerous place here is the “Second Step”. At an altitude of 8790 meters, there is a cliff of several meters high. The situation is aggravated by a hurricane wind blowing in gusts of up to 200 km / h.
  Base camp
  From afar, like a clap of thunder, the growing sound of an avalanche came to us. We looked around and at the foot of the neighboring mountain saw a cloud of snow dust rising like a nuclear mushroom.

  It was the glacier that came down, ”Prem said admiringly and took out a soap dish from his pocket. - It's good that we didn't go downstairs.

  A few kilometers from the collapse, like yellow pimples on the rough tongue of the Khumbu glacier, the tents of the climbers swayed in the wind.

  Where is the party? - we asked, looking at the deserted camp. Except for two idiots from New Zealand, who were photographed by the "talking stone" with their pants down, and a bunch of curious tourists who, like us, came to see the heroes of Everest, there was no one. Foreigners immediately awarded me three cameras and asked: "Photo, pliz!"

  Are you on Everest? - we asked them.

  Know-know, - the foreigners shook their heads and went to the tents to be photographed.

  Like three heroes standing at the "talking stone", we tried to find an answer from him: where should we go next?

  The answer came down to us from somewhere under the clouds and waved his trekking sticks in a friendly manner. It was 33-year-old Nepalese Shriya from Canada, with whom we had tea last night in Lobuche.

  We threw ourselves into her arms, as if we had not seen each other for a hundred years.

  Strange, the Nepalese in the Himalayas measure the distance in hours: to the monastery - two hours, to the village - four and a half, and to Everest - seven days. And time here seems to be measured in kilometers. You walked 17 km today, and 12 km ago you met Russian tourists, drank tea 5 km ago, and after 3 km you will go to bed. But as soon as you freeze in place, time goes away somewhere without you.

  In the mountains, in order to climb, you must descend, - Shriya explained the subtleties of mountaineering. First down - for acclimatization and breathing oxygen, then up - to put up a tent, throw a ladder over the gorge and again down - for the night.

  When I climbed to the second camp (6600 m), a Sherpa walked in front of me, who had already conquered Everest six times. He did not attach a safety rope to the railing and fell into the crevice, splattering the ice with blood.

  After this incident, an elderly German woman refused to climb. She sat silently next to us in Lobuche and mechanically drank tea, staring at one point. Her ascent, for which she had been preparing for more than one year, ended at an altitude of 6600 meters.

  Tomorrow I'll go there, - she said and pointed to the road along which climbers go to the sky.