“Off-road for the mass consumer” - this is exactly what you can call the road along which we went on the fifth base camp. From there we will go to the valley of ghosts of Demerzhdzhi, and then, along the old Bakhchisarai road to Kuibyshevo, having previously stopped at Mount Ai-Petri. In general, we are delving into the central part of the Crimean peninsula. The most famous sights of the peninsula remain behind, the wild Crimea awaits ahead.
2. The search for a clearing for the fifth camp led us to a place where “adventurers” are taken on jeep tours and driven in prepared UAZ vehicles. They shake well while driving over the stones, so that everyone who has bought a ticket for a ZhIP safari understands what the “Crimean off-road” is, and understands that it was not in vain that they paid money for the adrenaline they received.
3. So here it is. Under the gloomy glances of truck drivers who earn money by delivering tourists to the Jur-Jur waterfall, we drove in the Khapkhal gorge . We drove leisurely, photographed the beauty, drove around stones, until a “charged” UAZ, full of tourists, caught up with us. Caught up, honkedto the delight of touristsat our back, and drove off to the waterfall.
4. Meanwhile, we found a beautiful clearing for the fifth camp ( 44.80506; 34.46464 ), between two plateaus - Demerdzhi and Karabi-Yayla.
By the way, this is practically the only place in close proximity to the waterfall where you can pitch your tent. Plus, there is a fresh water source nearby.
5. From the clearing there are beautiful views of the border of the Demerdzhi plateau.
6. And to the border of the Karabi-Yayla plateau. Karabi now most likely has cosmic views, and zero visibility - because of this, cosmic views open from the side. Actually, we are heading to Karabi.
7. As for the Jur-Jur waterfall, according to Wikipedia, this is the most powerful waterfall in Crimea: its average water flow is 270 liters per second.
There is nothing more to say about the waterfall, except that there was a tick attached to the driver of the cornfield. The latter was creakingly removed from Seryoga’s body during the bath procedures. After which we went to the valley of ghosts of Demerdzhi.
8. In general, thanks to landscape photographers, I associated the Demerdzhi Valley of Ghosts with wild horses in the frame, in the background beautiful mountains. And all the way, while driving to the Valley of Ghosts, somewhere deep in my soul I was worried: “What kind of photographer am I if I don’t bring a shot of horses with Demerdzhi in the background” (sarcasm). And that's luck.
Taking photos of equids against the backdrop of foggy Demerdzhi is done.
9. Most likely, such activity of a small but proud donkey is explained by what he sees around him.
10. And even in such quantities.
11. And while we were driving to the valley, I noticed how a crew on an MPS got on our tail. Later it turned out that they were also from Moscow and had come to look for adventure at the fifth point. And the first question they asked me was “Damn, where can you get stuck here? They told us we definitely wouldn’t get through to Demerdzhi, we followed you in the hope of getting stuck together - we didn’t get stuck...”.
He suggested that they break through to the Dzhurla tract. =) After which they switched, just in case, to the same wavelength as our radios, and left somewhere. We didn't hear them on the radio anymore.
12. "For best places on this planet." Naturally, we are talking about NIVA 4*4. Do you see? And it exists.
13. We didn’t stay long at Demerdzhi, or rather the squally wind and snow forced us to move on. Bypassing the coastal cities we went to the very beautiful road Crimea.
14. Old Bakhchisarai road. Despite the fact that on the map this road looks like a secondary road, and before entering the pass there are signs saying “the pass is closed,” every road traveler who has visited Crimea should see this road with his own eyes.
15. The road is narrow in places. On the left is a mountain, on the right is a cliff.
16. Dozens of sharp turns, due to which oncoming cars fly out from time to time. And suddenly a Niva, with snow on the bumper. =o
Outside + 15.
17. At an altitude of 800 meters, there is more snow, and crazy views open up. We have to create emergency situations, stopping at the pass to take a photo.
18. Turn 180 degrees, 300 meters and turn again, and again, and again turn 180...
19. Simply put, the whole pass is turns. And a long climb to a height of 1000 meters.
20. And the higher you go, the more snow.
21. And even more desire to stop and take pictures of the beauty around.
22. Intermediate finish. The ascent is behind us, and an equally spectacular descent is ahead.
23. But first, let's take a ride to Ai-Petri.
24. Here is Ai-Petri, or more precisely, a fragment of it. By the way, the height of Ai-Petri is 1234 meters. 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 meters, very easy to remember.
25. From the mountain there is a view of the “toy” Yalta, and a huge cloud on the horizon, which in 30 minutes will reach us and change the landscape around beyond recognition. If you don't believe me, scroll below.
26. Yalta - like Crimea, is diverse. For example, five-star hotels.
27. Boarding houses from the times of the USSR, some of which have long been abandoned.
28. Private sector.
29. The epic arrival of that same cloud from the Black Sea. The difference with the previous frame is several minutes.
30. General plan - for clarity.
I can't describe how impressive it looks live.
31. And the landscape, which has changed beyond recognition.
32. After 15 minutes the sun is back.
33. And down the old Bakhchisarai road. Again dizzying turns, crazy views around, cliffs...
34. And beech forest. Actually, beech grows in the mountains - at an altitude of up to 2300 m above sea level. Therefore, this area of beech forest is unique.
35. Ordinary forest.
36. Landscape typical for the old Bakhchisarai road.
37. And the Great Crimean Canyon. Which we did not have time to examine. More precisely, we walked literally a kilometer, and realizing that before it got dark we needed to find a place to camp, we drove on.
39. In the end, it took us 8 hours to travel about 70 kilometers!
40. By sunset we found a beautiful path leading into a dense forest.
41. Where they set up camp 5.
42. Perhaps next time I’ll start with the coordinates of the fifth camp.
“...The road for three miles winds with whimsical bends and turns through the lands of the Foros estate and disappears into a tunnel. Despite the apparent steepness, the descent is completely safe and extremely attractive...” - this is how he described the path from the Baydar Gate to Yalta in 1913 Grigory Moskvich in his “Guide to Crimea”.
The road issue has always been a problem in Crimea - the path to the sea was dangerous and difficult. This was especially true of its southern part, separated by a mountain range. After the annexation of Taurida to the Russian Empire, following the example of the Empress, travelers began to come here often. Catherine II herself never visited the South Coast in 1787, but was only able to admire from the pass the sea stretching below and the winding coast going east, because the road laid for her journey ended at Baydar. The further path ran through the difficult and steep Shaitan-Merdven (Devil's Staircase) pass; only an experienced traveler could overcome it either on foot or on horseback.
The lack of roads for a long time hampered the development and development of Crimea. Even the first governors, the Duke de Richelieu and Lieutenant General A. Borozdin-Tavrichesky, had to build their dachas for more than three years. Count M. Vorontsov, who began construction of the palace in Alupka, also faced the same problem. Only after Emperor Alexander I, admiring the beauty of the Southern Coast, acquired an estate in Nizhnyaya Oreanda, came the greatest instruction to the Main Directorate of Communications to connect Simferopol, Yalta and Sevastopol by highway.
The development of the project and its leadership were entrusted to Lieutenant General Betancourt, one of the organizers transport system in Russia. In 1824, according to the approved plan, with the active participation of Governor General Vorontsov, the construction of the highway began with the forces of soldiers of the Kozlovsky and Nashmbursky regiments and the battalion of the 40th Jaeger Regiment. In Crimea, all work was led by corps engineer-colonel P.V. Shipilov (until his death in 1834). The construction was completed by his assistant, engineer-captain Slavich, who received the rank of engineer-colonel after the end of the Sevastopol - Baydar Gate in 1848
The road was built in several stages. The Simferopol-Alushta section was completed first in 1826. Then there was a long break due to lack of funds, and only in 1832, with the personal participation of Count Vorontsov, construction of the section connecting Alushta and Yalta continued. In parallel, work was going on on the other side - from Sevastopol to Yalta.
Builders lived - soldiers, civilians, prisoners, convicts - in temporary houses along the road under construction. Through their efforts, dozens of stone rubble have been cleared, kilometers of retaining walls and many bridges have been built. In 1835, Captain Albrandt arrived to help Major Slavich, who was supervising the work on site, and in 1842 their company was strengthened by Captain Frembter. It was thanks to the skill and professionalism of these people that the construction of the South Coast Highway was successfully completed.
Instead of the five years it was planned to complete the Simferopol-Yalta-Sevastopol highway, it took more than 20. In 1848, in honor of the completion of work, a propylaea gate was erected at the Baydar Pass (architect K. I. Eshliman).
“Following the Baydar Gate, the crew rises completely unnoticed to a height of 1631 ft. above sea level and... stops at the station. “Baydar Gate”: the tourist takes a few steps to the stone gate, behind which suddenly, as if by magic, a magnificent panorama of the southern coast opens before him, lying below, as if in a deep abyss, by the boundless sea” (Grigory Moskvich “Guide to Crimea”, 1913).
The Internet resource helps to tell each other about our country and Crimea and together to the whole world. About our monuments with a thousand-year history. About our amazing and charming nature. About corners where no tourist has ever set foot. About Crimea and hometown, which we all love so much!
When preparing the material, the Kyivstar Spark smartphone was used. Recently, it has become popular to use downloaded mobile content. Downloading themes to your touch phone has become very easy. Games and various useful programs are also popular.
The Old Sevastopol Highway is a rare example of a route for the southern coast of Crimea that turned out to be practically forgotten after a more convenient road appeared. As a rule, any paths on the coast are still used, since it has been developed quite thoroughly. But on the old Sevastopol highway you can very rarely see a car, since it runs far from the sea and does not lead to almost any popular object.
Therefore, we suggest that you take a walking tour along it, which will not be difficult to do using some of our tips.
First of all, you should think about equipment. Pay special attention to your shoes - the fact is that you will have to walk not along dirt paths, but along an asphalt road. Therefore, instead of the seemingly obvious hard hiking boots, choose sneakers with springy soles. As for the rest of your clothes, you will have to walk through a completely civilized area, so it is not at all necessary to follow the militarized tourist dress code, although it will still not be entirely comfortable in an evening dress. Take something to drink with you (there will be no water on a very long stretch of the journey) and something to eat. In summer and winter the route is of little interest, but in spring and autumn there will be something to see.
The old Sevastol road runs quite high above sea level. This is due to the fact that its builders could not solve two problems using the technologies of their time, and therefore were forced to bypass them. The first is Mount Cat above Simeiz. The builders of the new Sevastopol highway had to “break the back of an animal” made of very durable limestone. A little further towards Sevastopol there is another mountain that stood in the way of road builders - Dragon or Ai-Yuri. They dealt with it “simpler” - they broke through the only automobile tunnel on the southern coast of Crimea.
You can pass the old Sevastopol highway from two sides - from Alupka to Foros, or vice versa. Let's assume that we will start from Yalta, and therefore it would be logical to go from Foros to Alupka, that is, to the departure point. So, we will need to get to the fork where there is a turn to Foros.
However, we do not need it, but the road leading into the mountains to the Baydar Gate pass.
Both branches are actually opposite each other, so you can take either the Foros bus or the Sevastopol bus. Foros is the farthest village included in the so-called Greater Yalta, and directly from the city it is located at a distance of 42 kilometers. Interestingly, it is closer to Sevastopol from Foros and some local residents prefer to look for work in the hero city. It will take about an hour to drive from Yalta, so we recommend leaving in the morning.
So, we reach the Foros fork and head up the road to first look up close at one of the most famous Crimean temples - the Church of the Resurrection of Christ located on the steep Red Rock, which, by the way, celebrates its 120th anniversary on October 4, 2012. It was built at the expense of the Russian “tea king” Alexander Kuznetsov in honor of the miraculous rescue of the family of Alexander III in a train crash. During Soviet times, the temple was used for industrial purposes, including as a snack bar for tourists. Already under independent Ukraine, the then President Leonid Kuchma took charge of the fate of the unusual church, and with his participation the church was restored, after which it became a very popular tourist and religious site. It is often chosen by famous politicians or show business figures for their wedding. You will have to walk 4 kilometers along the road to get there. True, initially the road makes a loop and, after walking 2 kilometers, you will find yourself approximately above the point where you started your journey. However, we do not recommend looking for short paths, since these are still mountains and they often lead to very steep slopes.
The road to the temple, as it should be for any mountain track, very winding. Therefore, during the famous Yalta Rally, one of the stages takes place along the old Sevastopol Highway.
From the Church of the Resurrection of Christ there is a magnificent view of Foros and the nearby mountains, although the temple itself looks no less impressive against the backdrop of the coast, taken from the road above. In principle, from the church it’s very close to the Baydar Gate pass and that’s where it goes old road to Sevastopol, but after admiring the sight, it’s better to turn back, since the road ahead is very long.
Walking along the route is quite easy, since it very rarely goes uphill, and even then at a slight angle, but for the most part it is flat or slowly descends downhill. The first interesting object that you will encounter on the way, or rather, it will be clearly visible from the highway, will be a tunnel made by the builders of the new and existing Sevastopol highway in Mount Dragon.
It is small (about 50-70 meters), but not the most pleasant geological processes are constantly happening around, and the walls of the tunnel began to collapse over time.
IN last years the traffic along it is one-way, that is, first the cars go to Yalta, and then it’s the turn of those moving in the opposite direction. In addition, anti-landslide work is constantly being carried out on the Yalta side. It was not possible to find out the exact date of its construction, but there is information that it happened in the early 70s of the last century. So from about this time the old Sevastopol Highway began to lose its strategic importance.
Going even further, we will find ourselves near one of the most ancient Crimean transport arteries - the road built by the ancient Romans through the Shaitan-Merdven pass, or the Devil's Staircase, which connected South coast Crimea with the rest of it.
The “road” now looks more like a well-equipped path and it’s quite easy to follow. They say that Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin personally overcame this pass, holding on to the tail of a donkey.
In fact, even for younger schoolchildren there should be no problems in overcoming one of the lowest Crimean passes. The climb takes about 20 minutes, and the main thing is not to forget about shoes, although even in flip-flops you can easily walk there. Again, there is information that during the visit to Crimea of the first famous tourist, Catherine II, they did not dare to take the royal person down to the South Coast, which was then practically wild and had no roads. However, it was from this pass that the Empress looked at the new Russian acquisitions and was generally pleased. This object is protected and is a monument, so there is an entrance fee, but you will be offered an excursion and, again, do not forget that you are in the mountains, so an experienced guide will not be superfluous. However, it is better not to combine a walk along the highway and a climb to Shaitan-Merdven; it is better to do it another time. By the way, the surrounding rocks are used by climbers for training, so don’t be surprised if you see tiny figures of people hanging on ropes or walking along the steep rocks.
Well, we move on. By the way, the reason why there are practically no cars on the highway will soon become clear. Several years ago it was hit by a large landslide, which made it dangerous not only to drive through, but also to walk there. But now the road has been restored, but the danger of a landslide remains, so motorists do not favor this area.
And for us pedestrians, this is even better. Along the way we will meet two villages - Opolznevoe and Goluboi Zaliv, through which the highway passes right through and have survived their better times even before the new route appeared. There are shops there and you can replenish your water and food supplies. In addition, you can leave from there by bus if your strength leaves you or it becomes clear that you won’t have time to cover all the highways. In addition, there are many branches leading from the old highway down to the new one, so you can interrupt your walk at any time and return to civilization. As for the coast, during the journey we will pass over several settlements, some of which are so small that they are difficult to distinguish from simple clusters of residential buildings. Also in this region there are several large boarding houses and sanatoriums, which are clearly visible from above. Some saved character traits Soviet resort architecture, others have been modernized, and others have been built from scratch in recent years.
Having passed the Blue Bay, we come out onto the “ridge” of Mount Koshka.
Its upper part is still closed to the public and military facilities are located there. During the preparation of the lunar program, Sergei Korolev decided to test lunar rovers there, which is why ancient burial sites were damaged, but scientific progress then did not really take the past into account. The part of the mountain that was below the new route is the most popular place for visiting newlyweds, as well as an archaeological site. And there you can buy the famous “Yalta” sweet onions and the region Blue Bay, Olive, Opolznevoy and Katsiveli are most favorable for its growth. If you look from above, to the right of Koshka there will be the village of Katsiveli with a Water Park and a huge telescope (Crimean Observatory), and to the left is the village of Simeiz with the Diva rock standing in the sea and the most Mediterranean microclimate in the entire South Coast. From Simeiz, and, consequently, from the highway above it, the most famous Crimean mountain Ai-Petri, which is often mistakenly called the highest on the peninsula, is clearly visible.
Having wandered along the slope of Koshka, we will come out to the outskirts of Alupka and to the intersection of two “generations” of the Sevastopol highway. By the way, to catch a regular bus, you will have to walk about 100 meters back along the new highway. If you don’t do this, then the next stop will be right in the Koreiz area after 10 kilometers. The fact is that buses don’t just stop on the highway, and you’re unlikely to want to have such a bonus for a walk along the old highway. By the way, let's count how much we've gone through. So, from the crossroads at Foros to the temple - 4 kilometers, another 2 - way back to the crossroads, from which we go towards the mountains, and from it to Alupka - 22 kilometers. Total - 28 kilometers. That’s why it’s better not to be distracted by hiking around Shaitan-Merdven, and without it you’ll see a lot of interesting things.
“All roads lead to Rome” - this popular saying applies to the territories that were part of the empire of the same name. Once upon a time, the lands of the Greek city-states also became part of the Pax Romana. As is known, many of them were in Crimea. There is a Roman road on this peninsula as well. Its middle part is located in the famous Baydar Valley, along which they make their way to the no less popular among the “savages”. The attraction in Chersonesus finishes - under.
Where is the facility located in Crimea?
On the map of Crimea, the Roman Road (middle) is a barely noticeable line running 900 m from Rodnikovsky and Podgorny. It connects two natural tracts - (the height of the “throwing point” behind the “Devil’s Staircase” is 578 m) and the Baydar Canyon (at one of the sections of which the protected area begins).
Road on the map of Crimea
History of the Kalenda Trail
Ancient Roman communication dates back to the 1st century BC. It connected the strategic centers of the Greek world - Charax (“a palisaded place”) and Chersonesos (“small peninsula”). In ancient times, there was lively trade between the policies, delegations and gatherings related to the alliance were held.
During the era of the conquests of Rome, the old, barely noticeable “route” turns into a Roman highway - a cobblestone highway. Legionnaires walked here, their sutlers with their carts, captured savages and herds of bleating military “trophies”. This is due to the fact that it was impossible to sail by sea during a storm.
The Kalendskaya Trail in Crimea received its name in the Middle Ages. Linguists are sure that it consists of two Turkic words - “kale” and “endy” (“the fortress descends”). The fact is that the route in question is “superimposed” on a rather complex terrain.
During the era of the Russo-Turkish Wars, the old Roman road was used by both the Ottomans and the Russians. changed the geography of some of its sections - climbing the ridge became much more difficult. In “Ukrainian” and then “Russian” times, the highway became a historical monument, reliably protected by the state. Cobblestone mining, as well as any vandalism in the “archaeological park” is prohibited.
Why do tourists visit the Roman Road?
The Roman road in Crimea is part of a transport communication that allowed the Latin legions to quickly travel from one center of southwestern Taurida to another (through its mountainous part). Via Militaris was needed to pacify the rebellious Iranian-speaking tribes. They had lived on the peninsula for several centuries and considered the Romans as invaders. With the help of the tract it was also possible to purchase goods from Greek traders.
The 11-kilometer fragment “Baydar Gorge - Balaklava” is covered in 3-4 hours. Its average width is 2-3 m. However, the entire path is easier to describe in the language of geographers. The traveler rises (from Ai-Todor) to the Ai-Petrinskaya yayla, then even higher - to the Shaitan-Merdven pass. Then he descends into (very close to Skelskaya Cave). From here there are several “sleeves” of the “route”, 
leading all the way to Chersonesus (the locals know them).
The full tour begins at the entrance to Charax, the largest Crimean fortress of the Latins. The ruins are visible at the top (the remains of two rows of walls abutting the cliff in the south are noticeable here). There is a sign board. Historians believe that this bastion was built by the Moesian squadron of sailors - under Vespasian, it founded a base that defended (with the troops of Chersonese and Simbolon) the entire southwestern coast.
A section of this route passed through Simbolon Limen (part of Balaklava Bay). The city was the only port on the route, so it played an important role. Roman cobblestones can be seen around - heirs of Roman fortifications. Finally, the passage that brings the curious vacationer closer to the famous Chersonesus is notable for its specific exhibits. Even now, traces of ancient architecture can be found here, for example, column bases and tavern plinths assembled piece by piece.
How to get to the road-museum?
The most convenient way to the Kalend trail in Crimea lies from the Skelskaya cave, to its depths for guests of Sevastopol and is often delivered tourist buses. 200 m of quite tolerable ascent will take you to the very core of the old highway. Do you want to drive your car? Come to Rodnikovsky or Podgorny. Locals will show you the further traffic pattern, indicating priority landmarks in the area.
Do you find it easier to navigate on a map? Here is the route to get to the Roman Road:
Note to tourists
- Address: Podgornoye village, Sevastopol, Crimea, Russia.
- Coordinates: 44.451944, 33.827778.
The Roman highway "Charax - Chersonesos" served as a connection between two important outposts of Rome. Thanks to the timely deployment of military forces, imperial power over the aborigines was maintained for centuries. The route is interesting for lovers ancient history and local history, as well as fans of photo sessions - against the backdrop of ruins and rocks. Their photos and reviews can be found in great abundance on travel websites and blogs, including on our page.
