The essay of K. Zhukova "Notes on the way to the South Coast of the Crimea", published in St. Petersburg in 1865, not very well known to the lovers of Yalta Starina, especially compared, for example, with popular "Essays of Crimea" E. Markova. However, this is a very curious document of its time, an interesting accuracy and originality of household sketches. In the proposed passage that tells about Yalta and its surroundings, the author's punctuation is preserved and, often spelling.

In May, a unusual movement begins in St. Petersburg. On the River Neva Bolshaya boats, and on the streets, the chairs, the furniture and all sorts of homemade comlucent items. On the banks of Vasilyevskago Island, overseas and Finnish steamers will smoke. On railways, the number of departures from St. Petersburg is uve-lumber. It is clear that a large number of inhabitants hurry to leave the city.

It is impossible to be surprised by such a relocation, upon the occurrence of warm days. After an eight-month-to-one-month maternity, anything, having any means, if only not related to exclusive duties, leaves for the country, to the village, abroad.

Recently, a journey abroad, for the educated society, there was some kind of illness, curable only in the exercise of the desire to leave, in order not to, at least with a subservation of the funds necessary, in the future. Therefore, in every mug, which has a claim belonging to an educated society, no matter how small this circle is, there will always be a person, the sore or formerly abroad. Meanwhile, very few people who traveled by Poccia and could join the richness and diversity. It is clear here, on the one hand, an indomitable passion, and on the other - the amazing indifference.
If we can not allow that in Russia there are no wonderful areas for curiosity and for treatment, then the indifference for traveling by POCCI does not mean that it is impossible to travel comfortably and cheap here?

To resolve this question, if possible, I will try to join, as me, leaving from St. Petersburg only to Moscow, happened to go to the south coast of Crimea.

June 16, 1864, I went to the road. Flying along the railway to the city of Island, Pskov province, I slipped on the postal to Kiev and then to Vasilkovsky County, Kiev province. Having live here until July 12, I went to Rzhishchev's place, on the shore r. Dnipro to get to the ship to get there, this is the River and the Black Sea, to the south bank of the Crimea.

I do not know whether Petersburg bookstores are rich guidebooks in this charming part of Crimea? But, on the way, I did not find printed signs. G. Shevelev's notes, published in 1847, 23 pages in 16 share of sheets, very brief, although they are challenged for them, especially since they have historical instructions. Of course, there are scientists of writings about the Crimea, but the traveler, without a scholar goal, is looking for other details. Meanwhile, the junction of counterparts were different, which depended on the view. Some assured that hungry death awaits us; Others, which is needed to have everything with you, what the person needs, accustomed to some aweights of life, third, on the contrary, soothe, proving from the experience that you can find everything you need - there would be money.

Believing that not one I will be in such a dubious position, which especially complicates family, as it was with me, - I decide to describe my trip to the South Coast of Crimea, in order to clarify for many the question of the convenience or disadvantage of travel by Pocation.

I will not speak details about the way from St. Petersburg to Kiev, because the passage of the railway and the postal paths does not require explanations. Coach rolled down the smooth, beautiful highway, there was no shortage of horses. True, that horses often came across exhausted from the carriage of postal diligences, the abatinally driving on the road, but still these poor animals did not refuse to serve, and I did not have a claim to ride, sowing head. Poor squeezing horse! If the belief of the resettlement of the souls in animals may have exercise, then, according to my opinion, the most poor souls will be the moves in Russian postal horses. I will not talk about how convenience you can take a steamat of Dneprovskago of the shipping company, from Kier to M. Rzhishchev, which is one move, because I started a journey through the Dnieper from M. Rzhchev. I'll start with the notch of my place.

On July 12, 1864, at 12 o'clock in the afternoon, I sat down on the "Dnipro" on the town of Rzhishchev, the Countess Dzyalinsky, upon arrival of this steamer from Kiev. A steamer "Dnipro" is incomplete for the convenience of passengers, which are especially experiencing ladies who are allocated very small cabins. True, that, if it is impossible, at a well-known water height in the r. Dnipro, make a steamer longer, wider or higher, nor on one vertex - as they say, it is impossible to demand special amenities. But as a steamer stops at the night of the shore, at which there is no place to fit, and therefore it is necessary to spend the night in the cabin, then it seems to me that the Dnieper shipping society would very much obliged passengers of the 1st and 2nd classes, making a nominant bed with those benches with pillows , Kakia now serve the only refugees, in every class, not enough for men, if there are more than ten, and for the ladies and less, or have several folding bedrooms on a steamer. As for the Kushan, it is possible to get everything you need in a burying buffet, but according to the steamers of a high price. It's not bad to have with you, your tea and sugar, road unares and laundry for the morning toilet and wash.

They are talking about the noticeable echo of the Dnieper River. On the part of the Main Directorate of the Communications, there was a significant nocer on cleaning this river about stones, but the work did not reach the goal. The stones are blown up shallow, and although not visible tops of the stones, but they remained in places covered with water, which makes them more dangerous.
Practical people say that, having disturbed stones in the thresholds, between Ekaterinoslav and Nikopole, strengthened the ending of the river.

Steamer is heated by firewood. It is known that on the path of the shipping company there is a place of bold Count Bobrinskago, where, or about, there are rich coal copy, tested and heated sugar factory of the graph. During the way, a lot or a stick is constantly lowered from the steamer, the end of which is painted in different colors. Sometimes a steamer, unexpectedly, stops melie, formed by chance and unprecedented known. The sand is formed there of Mel. In some places, Kari, noticeable on special jets on the surface of the water, are dangerous for steamboats. Under Karzha, trees are known here, torn off from the shores and stopping under water. The bottom of the vapor "Vladimir" was escaped by such a Karge. It would seem that nzheneram should not only work on the explosion of stones that do not reach the goal, as to clean the river from Karja. From them, steamers cannot go at night, - which extends the time and increases inconvenience.

On the steamer society was mixed. At the very beginning of our swimming, it rained. Passengers of the 1st and 2nd classes hidden in the cabins, and the poor class, on the deck, experienced the whole burden of its open position. But, as you can see, passengers of this class are accustomed to that. I noticed a lady, dressed very simply, which was called the captain. She, under the torrential rain, covered with a tiny umbrella, smoked from a tube with a long letter, releasing smoke clubs. There were also the other women, smoking cigarettes. Nothing can be said against it if smoking makes suffering and maybe warns the disease. Drive 300 and more live in the rain by spending on the deck, one and a half days, not easy. On the way, the steamer stops for sitting down passengers, or takes new ones. The emergence of new persons revives society. Thus, we stayed at m. Cherkasy, in the mountains. Canon, as well as Krylov, before the fortune. We met bigger mastovy boats with loophole, called here by Berlin.

Having left Rzhskhev, as stated, at 12 o'clock ahead, we arrived, on the other day in the morning, in the mountains. Kremenchug. Having time before the next day, we transported things to another steamer, called "Kremenchug" - what needs to be made by their concerns on frozen trees or cart, without hoping to promote a shipping office that did not prepare for any people nor horses or boats . Although the servant of the panel is caused by a boat, but we almost drowned in a rubbish fishing boat, and very sorry that they were entrusted to carriers; With that it turned out to be possible, only to diversify the Dniprovskogo of the bridge, which was not divorced, and therefore it was still necessary to hire a horse, but to move the coast on his knee in the sand.

It is impossible not to protest against such an indifference of the Directorate of the Dnieper steamers, to the conveniences of passengers from which they take good money. No, we largely behind foreigners in this regard, and, in my opinion, no objection can be solid. The cashier told that the carriage of the carriage was headed, but that there were no hunters ride in it or to transport a sting; But such a weak sympathy of the public probably followed that the prices were made here very high ...

... Horses were ready, and we moved further to the Baidar Valley, separated from Balaclava in 25 versts. Soon, we arrived at the Baidar station, and again there were no horses, and there was no hope of getting them, previously a brief evening. I did not want to drive along the picturesque Baidar valley and enter the south coast of Crimea at night. Therefore, we stayed to spend the night on the Baidar, literally bad, purely Tatar station, and went to walk. Here the Tatar village, quite inhabited, but so dirty in its situation, that any poetry of the terrain, unlikely, and here, disappeared, at the sight of dirty, and even part of half batter and their dwellings.

The first time the woman was met, closed by Chado, through which one brilliant eyes visited. The woman sat on the grass and dressed was decently; But immediately passed - that we saw in the Crimea in the first and last time, - the Molo-Dae Tatarchonok with a wearing bugs, almost naked, because lochmotyev who covered only some parts of the body, and that was not quite, it was impossible to attribute What kind of clothes. Soon, the beginning of the evening, and we had to return to the station. Near the road, the Tatar cemetery. On the road chalked ox. Tatar arba (carts) with unwashed wheels - that the Tatar does not accidentally, but in the order of things, they produced an unpleasant, unbearable creak. In the air, some freshness began to appear, but not north, and we returned to the station house, where they were located, how much it was more convenient, due to the fact that there were no other passing.

From nothing to do, I began to consider the caretaker of the station. What is the life of the station caretaker? Rashchiki and horses - with whom he cannot have society - and passing, with whom he has nothing to do anything, here is the position of the stationNago caretaker. Passing, for the most part, try or finish the conversation by making a few questions, or start and finish with unpleasant complaints, and often break, unfair. Meanwhile, you see before you, very often, a mango, a man's decenter, is dressed in the form of an official; Near him, the sword, the sign of the nobility; All rooms at the station, besides him, clean and well furnished. Meanwhile, there are many married caressants, with pile of children, devoid of upbringing.

Many stations in Russia drove and saw everywhere, not so much the need of Motherly, which can satisfy small, but everywhere poverty is a moral, making a man with a rubbish. At one station, in the morning early, I found a caretaker with a little daughter to pray. She diligently told her forehead in the wooden floor of the room and Boyko repeated the words by the Savior Savior's Prayer "Father Our". In Baydara, a caretaker, as if answering my Duma, put forward, not on purpose, all kinds of their indefanded life. But this is not so bad in the country of South, where nature is engraving the feeling. What is it possessing in other places?

We got up early in the morning, but the fog, covered objects, deprived us of the opportunity to leave immediately. Soon, the air was cleared, and we entered the picturesque Baidar valley. As everything is all the same here, as little looks like the surroundings of the St. Petersburg Pit, where many people are kept, whereas here, closer to Paradise, in a scene is so empty. There the kingdom of people, here - feathers and insects.

Here are a Baidar gate. Moving the convolutions of the road, coming to the delight of the surrounding species, we must drive up to this place, with Kotoro, suddenly we will see the whole South Coast. At this point, the royal family for breakfast was stopped, and, in the memory of that, the gate of the stone was arranged here, from the rocks. Indeed, when we arrived at the gate, surprise and delight were fulleged. I will consider this moment one of the happiers in my life.

Artists, poets, come, write, sing! Before you, an unfortunate quiet sea, you have a huge cliff, and over them soaring eagles. Down, a winding strip of the highway, on the left side of the road, rocks, covered with picturesque vegetation and running, here and there, jets of the purest water; And the right magnificent greenobarhat slope, dotted by vineyards, gardens and ending the sea, before the impressionable, that I do not want to take the eyes under the impression of this wonderful look. It can be said that here God threw a paradise to the land to prepare for the concept of PAE heaven.

And so we rolled further and further, it seemed that we would stay on the same place, because the gate, about which I said, are not lost from the view. Meanwhile, the versts disappear. We are found by Tatars and Tatars, in local two-wheeled boxes with cavities, or riding riders. East multicolored clothes, Muslim greetings, and hanging on the rocks of the village, all this was new to us, and the road, putting more and more picturesque, represented more and more enormality. But here is the Ckekeniz station, from which one relocation to Alupka, Prince Vorontsov, the wedding Crimea with its magnificence.

It is known from the published descriptions of the Crimea, that the Tatar village, which occurred from the Baidar Valley along the Southerno Shore, carry Greek names, belonging to them before the resettlement of the former inhabitants, in the reign of Catherine II, on the shores of the Sea's Azovskago. Tak, not far from Baidar, the village of Faros, in the middle of the wooded mountain, Misat, Mudzen, with the stone staircase, looks around the agrees; Kuchuk-Koy, part of which in 1786 collapsed, with houses and gardens, and formed the abyss, and then Cycenez, with the postal station of the same name.

I intend to go to Alupka, and therefore having to say from the postal road, without reaching the next station, we met the difficulty in Cycenez. We were told that the rocket did not have the right to turn off the road, but what we can, reaching the next station, take private horses to Alupka there. It was clear that the container on both stations is alone, and that this oppression of nothing more as a desire to contempt the postal runs with us and for a particular return to a few miles to Alupka.

Seeing such a Zhidovsky smaller, we decided to experience whether it was impossible to hire a horse or a porter for suitcases on the road, and they themselves prepared to reach Alupka, from the big road, walking, which is not the biggest labor. Of course, we risked to fold the suitcases on the road; But it turned out that "the features are not so terrible as they draw," and our jammer was seduced by the prescribed half-shot, and, having his own way from the road, brought us to Alupka to the hotel herself.

So we are in Alupka. But before the description of the poetic side of this delightful shelter, we will deal with the device of your dwelling. It is necessary to translate the Spirit from the impressions that have fallen.

Prince of Vorontsov, so famous for multilateral excellent qualities, made from Alupka, for travelers the subject of curiosity. Alupka was driving anyone who had the case to be on this side, or on purpose, and it was necessary to arrange a refuge to deliver the opportunity to stay in this hospitable corner, without constraining the owner. I do not know who belongs to the thought of the hotel: Prince Father or son, the current owner of Alupka, but the fact is that you find a hotel here, very clean, equipped with convenient, good furniture and dishwashes about Prince. I heard that she was leased, but unfortunately, the Frenchman, the remaining, probably, from the tail of French apmemen, in which he could believe, served, with a stable, or in a camp with Redante.

He has his staff: 1, his wife, hostess, obliged to make incorrect, increased scores and represent a sample of French female illiteracy; 2, Maiden N, sister of his or his wife, cook, workout, dishwasher and companion at the hotel, in a word, for all hands, and 3, in one person, a swiss, lacquer and a janitor who served in the French army during donkeys, because borrowed from They are a lot of overnight, lost their handkerchiefs - if they were, - with a siege of Sevastopol. It is asked than the Frenchman could earn money, and why did he get the advantage of the rental applicants?

We took very good rooms here, and before the walks recognized the need to explain about dinner. The mistress was covered by the hostess of their inconsistency, but it was possible to guess that neither the reserves, no money from Do not, and that we would have to overcome one poetry of the area and imagine themselves with challenging perfume in paradise. However, there was no refusal, and the mistress with such dignity said the name of various dishes, which is already from the diversity of associated sounds it was possible to be satisfied. Accustomed with the patronage of fate, we went for a walk.

For us, the sea, Alupka with his palace, the Orthodox Temple, Vwise Pantheon, Mosque and Success, is spreading on the shore, which she resembles all countries of light. Cypress, olives, liana, oranges, flowers of all kinds scattered everywhere and in the garden: Grota, Hermitages, Ponds, etc. We did not know where to start, and limited to, for the first time, the general review, how much I allowed the volatile heat and Fatigue from postal ride.

We return to the hotel hungry, with an appetite, able to swallow all the kingdoms of nature. In the dining room turned out to be a served Table d'Hotel, and a servant, having turned his dirty blouse, with the dexcation of almost the man of man, filed us Menu dinner: 1. Potage A La Reine; 2. Saute AUX ROYNONS and 3. RoastBeef a i'anglaise. What is more? We were fed so badly, as Tokmo should be expected at the atmosphere of the hotel, unlike visitors. In the dining room, we found the Russian merchant, traveling around the Crimea, in his stroller with a long-headed ticket-lacker. A merchant began to speak with us about the hotel's main hotel. He scared for the fact that he was fed by soup from the kidneys, the only one, who had his dish, and pointed himself a sorrespondence on him, as on his Savior, from Kotorago, in the sad mood of the Spirit, blow out the tenth cup of tea.

Soon, the honorable merchant starred from the anchor, and so frankly, with such details that are unwanted out of decency, chose a Frenchwoman that she should remain pretty if she understood alone a quarter of cute epithets.

Sorry that I did not adapt myself to the expression of sensations, and there were so many in Alupka. It came wonderful, southern and more than moonlight. In the air here is so quiet, gently n is fragrant that all feelings were in some particular pleasant mood. Maybe I like Petersburger, a resident of a city where everyone is busy, even those who have nothing to do, the most freedom and rest contributed to a certain extent, to the passion of new personal position, but I will not agree that the same feelings would be Possible in this new position, in another place, less charming.

Away from the coast, the Greek ship stood, the only object on the boundless space of water lit by the Luna. This ship arrived here for pulling out from the bottom of the Separals of the stentest here, during a storm, a steamer "Yenikol".

Tatars, as residents of the south, are content with very small for food. I do not know how the richest of them lived, which has dropped a lot with a recent eviction from the Crimea; I saw the remains of the Tatharskago population, people's simple, workers. Someone called all the Tatars and the left and remaining, rubbish, and, as it seems, it is true, because Tatars inhabited the Crimea for many years, and the latter does not represent progress. It can be assumed that the rich Tatars in the lifestyle did not beat their poor meetings. Tatars eat a great lamb, but rarely, because she is not cheap, and with that here, in the south, meat is not such a value that it constitutes it in the north. The predominant Kushan of Tatarin is a cashier from the milk, with sour milk, rod, and only. Unfortunately, but I noticed that our Russian civilization was allowed and here those roots, which would not have to be vaccinated.

I'll join my remark. The hotel was hired by Tatars, who had lunch at a while we returned to our dinner. On a stone that served as a dining room for them, lay a piece of stenago bread and stood a bottle with vodka. I asked: Did Majet allowed to drink wine? Tatar replied that Quran prohibits wine to drink, and that he would not take a drop in her mouth for a thousand rubles, but that vodka is not prohibited, because it is not wine. It is no longer naive, and the hectrine was invented, I thought, and I guessed that the great teacher in this case, there was, blissful memory, brilliant sputum, and then distributed everywhere signboards driving and on the removal, which decorate all the inputs and outputs. It was sad, driving into county and provincial cities, read Takia signs at every step and still sadly meet them on the southern coast of Crimea.

The morning poetry changed the poetry of the evening. We went to inspect Alupka. The House of Prince Vorontsova represents an outside of Mauritanskago architecture outside, as suitable for the nature of this area, on which the building in another style would not agree with the nature of the surrounding dwelling. Inside the house of the prince, the union of Vostochnago with Western is so well sustained that the latter does not destroy Pervago. The view from the house, the decor, and all the little things show, what taste led the owner and what means he possessed.

When we went around the garden, where it was so well able to take advantage of the naturally organized nature and rejected from the mountains of the rods, "then it seemed to us that we were in some kind of magical place. Grotto, near Rock Rock, on which the staircase leads; ponds with transparent water and with many clearly visible fish; Swans, cascades, silk trees, oranges, oranges, labry, olives, lemons, pomegranates, roses of all kinds, magnificent magnolia, cypresses, popols, palm trees, grapes, figs, cedar, Volosk nuts, tobacco, tropical vegetation, etc. All this together represents such a wealth that the step in is amazed. And how many items covered with our eyes; How many of them are here for personaligago pleasure and use of the owner.

The heat, inevitable with the approach of half a day, made us hurry to bathe. In order to be elected from the cliff, uncomfortable for those who do not swim; While the bottom here is rocky, so that without shoes it is unpleasant to walk. But all this is falling at the entrance to the water. It is not possible to have any shoes for bathing, which are sold in Odessa, but which are better to do from the camel polstago cloth, in the form of a sock, binding ribbons. It is soft gently, withstands more straw braid - I have seen in Odessa - and after squeezing soon dries.

Alupka is visited mainly on Sundays, inhabitants of Yalta, and there are crews, which will be said below. But on weekdays, Alupka is not devoid of visitors.

Looking at the cast of the mountains, over which the eagles hover, and seeing the cross on the mountain, you wish to know what is there, around the corner, and to surprise you know what the Steppe smooth is in the mountains, and there is neither the vegetation, neither of that air southern coast of Crimea.

Our lunch on this day was abundant. The main hotel, having received a few money, bought meat, bread, etc. and fed us with great attention. Unfortunately, the Lackey Blouseball was not reborn and His habits: to take a glass, dropping his fingers into it, and to remove the flies from the cream to the same, remained inconsider. But we, on the road, often meeting like habits, managed to delete the participation of the city of Gang, Kotora's fate, - as it were, in the mockery, - appointing to French pigs, elevated, finally, to the lacquer of the Russian hotel.

May the reader forgive me that I take it in such details; But I wish to save him from the affection of Thrazuzov, who seem to behave from Jews, in which it is impossible to doubt, when you consider the type of the family of a hotel, and the ability to trade without capital, which turns out to be the most advanced Zhid tribe.

After lunch, we went to the village of Alupka, which near the prince of the house and represents a number of flat roofs with sitting on them by Tatars, Tatars and Tatarnas. Tatarka was digging in the kindergarten, and seeing his wife, with a smile she served her cucumber, and when she accepted him with gratitude, then Tatarka wanted to repeat his courtesy. Here are women without Chad, but maybe because they are at home; However, we, after met a lot of women and girls, here in Alupka, but outside the village, and all were without covered. We did not enter the inside of the saclay, but as it was possible to notice, not much lost from that. We wanted to preserve a pleasant impression and not violate it.

Near the village market, consisting of several shops, and the mosque. The old man Mullah entered the minaret and shouted the call for prayer a very pleasant voice. With the permission of Mullah, and one can say at the invitation of all the former Tatars mosque, we entered it. From the ceiling, many lamps are descended; The floor is covered with mats and in some places carpets. Ahead, a small deepening in the wall, in which some kind of rag is hanged, sacred because it is exported from Mecca, from the coffin of Magomet.

Before this cloth, Mullah, sitting on his knees, read the prayers, who repeatedly rinsed by all those present sitting in the same position. Each Muslim, entering the mosque, Siamal shoes and did bows, pressing his hands to different parts of the body, and then NIC was already blocked. Prayed everything very humbly, and each separately; But after, the prayer was made in general, or the repetition of the words of Mullah. There were moments of such a concentration of praying in themselves, what I thought did not fall asleep.

A suit of a tatar is very beautiful in front, but not beautiful from behind. At the reservoir, we saw several young female and maidens, very pleasant outfacities. They are good eyes; But the colors of hair and teeth makes them unpleasant. They spit out their shoes, and it makes a lack of incorrect. I noticed the tatar of cospar, probably from an awkward seat on his legs. A group of women and girls at the reservoir supplemented the picture of the Eastern setting. When we were stamped with one separate saclay, we saw the studded Tatar's casual tatar. He jumped from the saddle at his feet of his girlfriend, very pretty and graceful, which expected him with a smile. Then a foolproof speech was sprinkled, and young beautiful couple disappeared in Sakle. This scene of the date imprinted in my memory.

But pretty for Alupka; It is necessary to move further in Yalta. Prince Vorontsov, in concerns about the comforts of travelers, allowed to turn an excellent cart into a modest diligence and came out a very pretty 8-seater diligence in the Tatar taste, but on springs and with lubricated wheels. When we hired a diligence, in order to have stops from the apiyanads and Livadia, then a kucher agreed with us, who requested an exception to 6 rubles for such an exception, assuring that he would not give anyone in this box, except for us. Therefore, we believed that the price depends on the arbitrariness, although the hotel was posted. But before the ending came to us the Railway, who took the position of 3 p. For four places, and 1 r. For hell and announced that we will not have enough time to stop, but we will go alone, to lack other passengers. Chercher was appointed not the one who wanted to deceive us, and so we experienced the experience that did not follow to individuals, but directly at the prince's office.

Leaving Alupka on July 31st, at 4:55 minutes, after lunch, we arrived in Yalta to 7 o'clock in the evening. The whole road is an endless garden, with wonderful views on MoPE and rocks. Everywhere flows from the mountains of the streams of the purest water in the arranged reservoirs and from there to the vineyards through the road. Here and there is a pleasant noise of cascades. Moving the picturesque estates of Maltsev, Kochubey, Princess Meshcherskaya, Naryshkin and then Arianda Velikago Prince Konstantin Nikolayevich and the Upper and the lower Livadi of the Empress MAPII Alexandrovna, as well as the estate of Korsakov and beautiful giving near Yalta itself, we came here, delighted with the road.

Yalta, a small county town. It rolls a fast stream from the mountains and flows into the sea. Top, beautiful Orthodox church. At the entrance to the city, on the side with which we drove down, below the shore are: barracks of garrison soldiers, unfinished still house for the special imperial family, the hotel of French secret, Customs and Hotel Galakhova Hotel de la Cote; The best house in Yalta. We ask Kucher, where they stop more, and it points to a French hotel, saying that Galakhovskaya is better, but there are many insects. Betting begins with the French. Required by twice: 3 p. for each dirty room; Moreover, there was no shortage of French chiffs as on the PR. I agreed to verify for two rooms on the first day 6 r., in the second 5 r. And in the third 4, and to stop.

When we decided to leave, the Frenchman gave way for 3 rubles. Two rooms or two numbers. Such a concession, one, no more than an accident, which would not follow, if the Frenchman knew that at the time of our agreement, at the Galakhov Hotel, all the numbers were busy for expected from the Caucasus Sweets of Velikago Prince Mikhail Nikolayevich. Of course, in Yalta, - as I noticed, - there are apartments; But maybe they would not give them for several days, or we could do not have any servants.

Yalta is a very small town on the shore of the bay; The shore forms a semicircle, and the city was made very beautiful, because, behind him and about, magnificent mountains, covered with wonderful vegetation, and the sea. If we look at home separately, then all of them, except the Galakhov Hotel, do not deserve attention. Such a city, in the other terrain, would be stranded, by justice. It is said that when it took the city of Yalta to arrange a hospital, then there was no place, and that it happened from the seizure of urban land with adjacent owners who having legal, although incorrect plans, had evidence for the right of ownership, while the city, unworthy about the plan, too Late learned about the capture of his land.

The enemy invasion left several obscenities of French blouses in Crimea. The house of the hotel also belongs to the rude blouse, who has gone huge fortune for several years. He, now giving his house to fellow countrymen, for the hotel, is engaged in trading or content of horse crews. It is said that the store with a different product that places in his house belongs to him, which can be assumed on the high cost, possible in the absence of competition. The hotel is also contained by the French: one, the leading economy, and the other, the fattest man, preserving the Kushan. This triumvirate holds coming in his hands, and the foulness of the pockets is brought to genius.

If some smart Pycal merchant thought to compete, it would be difficult now to knock out these vampires from a position that gives the tool to suck the blood increasing with each year of travelers. After all, they knew how to dissolve rumor about clusters at the Hotel Galakhov, whereas in a French hotel, not only bugs, but also the other animal, not excluding the owners and servants, did not enter the fable. For a long time to expect the decline of our attachment to everything foreign, and for a long time to learn to our merchants to satisfy the needs of the public with small means.

On the shore, Boulevard, but without trees, because here under the influence of the Sun, in an open place, there is no vegetation. Here is a bathing, male and female, separated by wooden small booths on the shore, and several boards, under water and on the water. Water and here, in Yalta, - against waiting, it was cold, and there were a lot of sharp stones at the bottom, so that without shoes there is no possibility to pass at all, and there were cases of large cut cuts. But despite the irregularity of the water, which was done that warmer, then colder, bathing here is very useful and pleasant. The more often it happens to swim, the more desire to continue. In early August in St. Petersburg, there are few or not at all hunters to swim, but in Yalta and other places on the southern coast of the Crimea, the best months for the bathing september and October, and even November, but not always. In these months, grapes ripen, and in general the abundance of fruits.

We went to the boulevard walk in the evening. Musicians, Czechs, two men and one woman played in the middle. Myzka is not bad, but very modest for the boulevard, on which a significant number of walking and it would be even more. But here it can replace all the music by the harmonic entanglement of the evening breeze, refreshing air, and the surf waves swallowing off the coastal stones. On the same evening, sailed to the city of Kerch, steamer of the same name, and music played on it. Passengers transported passengers from the shore on the boat, in the impossibility of arranging the pier from Samago shore and the high cost of the jetty, the device Kotorago, - it seems to me - I would have spoiled the painting of the bay.

The moon, who saved out of the clouds, illuminated endlessness, placed us to dreams. Interrupting them, we went to the bazaar, which in the evening, with southern darkness, - being lit by the lanterns that were displayed by the sellers of fruit, is quite picturesque. Traders here, most advantage, Greeks. There are many Tatars offering riding horses, and several Russian shops with different goods, like that: sugar, tea, coffee, butter, candles, etc. There are several buns here, of which one German. MNE seems to have no German bakery. In Vitebsk, I stopped at the shop, where I noticed the bells of the species of the species, and it turned out that the boots were German. In other cities, we noticed the same. Therefore, I can assume that the Germans captured all-Russian bakery trade in their hands.

In early August, in Yalta, there were no good fruits. Grapes Early Kisel - what happened from the cold, former in 1864, after the onset of spring heat; Pears, plums and apples sold for pounds turned out to be bad and expensive. I liked some figs. As for the melons, they were tasty, from Sevastopol, but call them here with men, like the fruit is very ordinary. And in our north, I thought, - honorable, dear place occupies a melon.

Morning, August 1, was also good as in previous days. Cut out, - in shoes prepared for 75 kopecks. For a couple of baths of bathing, - we drank tea in the kindergarten, or or rather the garden of the hotel, in a gazebo, wrapped with grapes. The south bank was visible. Hanging the mountains were covered, as if the ferry from the clouds descended on them, which, little by Malu, we open the mountains in all their magnificence. The Sun illuminated a few rugs falling with GOP, and the greens had such a wonderful color that if it were not for the heat, which increased in our shelter, we would love the picture of the coast for a long time. Unfortunately, the heat is very tired here, and there is a clock of the day, in which the time is lost, it is impossible to walk under the scorching southern sun and do something, from the heat. However, in 1864, there were no terrain, which differ in the local area.

My hat was covered with a white turban bought in Odessa. The ends were descended on the shoulders, which defended his head and neck from the sun. I did not attach my physiognomy through this dressing anything special, and I did not think to serve as a subject of particular attention, but it came out. In Yalta came from St. Petersburg a few beautiful and elegant young people. They ride riding on Tatar horses, dressed decently for horseback and hiking. But they did not take such turbans, which was, and in Yalta it was impossible to get.

However, there is no evil in the world unfail, and happiness or satisfaction returns as soon as soon as it goes. We saw on another morning that Cavalcada moved to a walk with white ribbons on her hats, so that the ends flew through the air. Residents of the hotel now nicknamed young people with brides. I advise the reader not to tie to the hat of such tapes, and it is better to get a white batter from under hats, - which is closer to the goal, not ridiculous, and what makes the British everywhere where the sun shall be done.

August 1, after lunch, when the heat began to replace the pleasant cool, we went to Ariand, the estate of Velikago Prince Konstantin Nikolayevich, on the southern coast of Crimea. The terrain of the majestic, but artificial cleanliness of roads, tracks and sites, and in general, on every step, destroyed that wild charm, who was used in Alupka. There is a lot of taste and luxury in the palace. Flower garden beautiful; on the rock Rotunda. But no matter how hard the builders and gardeners have been trying to decorate the terrain, still the best apieander decoration will be wilderness of the surrounding mountains, and the sea, the view of which is delicious to see the Veniko-Prince Palace.

Returning from the arynda, we drove to Livadia, the estate of the Empress of Mapiyia Alexandrovna, who belonged to the first names of Potocks, probably counts. The palace is rebuilt; But we were not deprived of the opportunity to see some rooms, so - we can say - were in the palace. When all alterations and restructuring, as well as new buildings, will be completed, then of course Livadia will be one of the most extensive shelters to promote health and for recreation. The church, which is finally separated, is built in the Byzantine style. Italian artists work here, who are alien to the Byzantine painting, which does not prevent them from performing the order, with great art, of course, according to the specimens. All works manages the monighetti architect.

But it began to darken and needed to return to our hotel. Our rooms appeared disgusting, after those visible in the palaces, and the miserable were our convenience, bought out, it is not cheap. But such a luxury, which we saw in the palaces, could have been treated. The Vineyards of the Tsarist serve not to the small decoration of the cottages described and, probably deliver a large collection of this pleasant fruit, useful for health and for winemaking.

Upon returning to Yalta, the batan again, again on the seashore, again, surf. The wind intensified, and began to be a big meager, which was explained by the remote beard on the sea, although rare in August, but still possible. In the city, between police persons, movement, running, and on the shore of the boat pier we noticed a gathering. Expected the arrival of Velikago Prince Mikhail Nikolayevich, - what was known in the telegraph; Moreover, it was ordered to cook rooms in the Galakhov Hotel for Grand-Room Sweets. The bay stood a military papoxo, where it was possible to notice something in common with the cooking on the shore. On another day, on August 2, we saw a marina decorated with flowers - that of course it was noticeable during the day, and on urban buildings cooked scaling and plates.

On August 2, in the evening, began on a military steamer signals, and, in the evening, with a large sea excitement, a steamer arrived with the Grand Duke and his retinue. Soon after the boats drove up to the shore, the Grand Duke went to one of the imperial cottages, and the walking continued in the illuminated city, which, as it seemed to me, by means of his hardly could do more. I liked the fact that the great prince, who had an honor to decorate the pages of the domestic history, the final conquest of the Caucasus, the first reception, expressing appreciation and devotion, made the town a very small and poor, but sympathizing with a great event is not meee of other large cities.

When it became known about the conquest of the Caucasus, I was in the blocking, and saw that the event was a big impression. After when I sailed along the Dnieper and the Black Sea, the Caucasian event was the first item of the conversation of the persons who went to the steamers. Immediately, people who have goals and types of the Caucasus appeared on their localities, unusually rich in nature and promising to serve for trade and manuff, golden rune. With the arrival of Velikago Prince, Yalta revived more than more. Grand Duke and Persons from his suite attended the city.

On August 3, the bathing struck me. In the morning, at 7 o'clock, there were eight degrees in water, and at 8 o'clock thirteen. The pleasure of bathing was incomprehensible, despite such freshness of water. It is not necessary to remain long in the water. It is enough to plunge two or three times in cold water, or stay up to 10 minutes in water when it is heat. Former bathing - I'm talking about black MOPE - in water, subject to unreprenerable changes and having a greater force of shocks, are not suitable for weakly idle and suffering a cold. It is better for them in the same MoP, but in Odessa, warm baths, which I spoke in my place. To catch hair from the influence of seawater, the so-called marine soap is used. If the sea water will have too much influence, that is, it will produce on the body, not only itching, due to small rash, but will cause wounds, Chiria, etc., it is very useful to rub the body, before bathing, chicken eggs.

Passing into your numer, I could not help but admire, with some kind of friendly the triumvirate of the French, is offended by his guests. - How could a rude blouses to nourish himself a huge fortune in the town, so small, if he had not been hasty. The successor he no longer walks in the blouse, but his manners and the form prove that they are brothers and on the ground, where they received the beginning and in nature. I will not say that about the third, which is in perfect dependence on the abdomen, and I am afraid that someday, standing at the hot plate, he melts and deprivates the final opportunity to solve its properties.

Wanting, before departure, survey the surroundings, we went to the riding to the waterfall of Stude-Su, for the Greek Village Outlo. We left in the morning, on Tatar horses, with Tatar saddles and with the conductor Tatar. The road to the mountains is picturesque, and the more further we deepen into the schools of the forest and approached the waterfall closer, the more the terrain became wild. In some places, the paths on the most breaks, so finally we were forced to leave horses and continue on foot. It is easy to wonder Tatar horses, as they are familiar to walking in the mountains. In some places, the smart animal is completely reclining, and in others, on narrow paths, stops, he will knock the nail, the stone or the earth holds firmly, and then it is already stepping. Without such horses, it is impossible to drive up to the waterfall. It is said that the Tatars are lazy and hardened in such wilderness, cutting the road, but that you can drive more convenient.

Waterfall Stude-Suh should be gorgeous after the rains when a lot of water; But when we were here, the water descended sharply, on a stone, smooth, sheer rock, in small quantities, and therefore we did not find a noisy, jerking waterfall, with water dust, how should it be in a different time. But we were on a large embroidery, saw all Yalta and the sea, which is not end in its infinity. Ariant, Livadia, Mashtar, Outcack - all this was visible. In view of the duties of the ruins of the fortress attributive to antiquity. In Outcake, the Greek Church, with a very older priest. It was impossible not to note that there are many kabaks in this picturesque area.

Upon returning to Yalta, we met the Academic Makarov, which seemed to be in military service, which showed us a few of the surrounding species, like that: the cities of Yalta and the waterfall of the student. After Aivazovskago, all art will seem weak, and I can not say the paintings and pictures of Makarov make an impression. Looking at the work of the artist and not finding the fact that I saw an eye in the pictures of nature, I come to the thoughts about the inability to convey the right thing for which there is not enough art of painting, nor the ability to describe the visible.

On August 5, we decided to leave Yalta in the crew, hired by the mess, to Simferopol. It was a very comfortable shaban in six places, including a place for Kucher. But the horses were rubbish. Long, and the Naochet were traded, hired cheaper of what was asked the degree of uniquely, but very good to the Ekinage, Tatar, the only competitor of his companion. In Simferopol, we had to come by another day, after overnight in Alushta. The weather was beautiful, quiet, but without the sun, which appeared then, when it could not disturb.

Driving a picturesque road, we passed the estates: Islandeva, Mordvinova, Nikitsky Botanical Garden of State Protection Office, - Kotorago should not be left without inspection; What we could not do in circumstances - the estate of Idanil and Massandra Prince Vorontsova, Gurzuf, with the sole of Yayla and Ayudag, in antiquity Cape Kryumetonon. From here, the Mount Chatyr-Dag is visible (Tanther-Mountain), in antiquity Trepsus, the highest in the Crimea, where in the gorges there is permanent snow. In addition, we passed the estates of Gagarin and Fundukley. If the view of the sea and the wonderful shore from Biddar to Yalta can be called picturesque, then the road from Yalta to Alushta deserves the same name.

It can be said that the whole southern coast is one common row with mountains, rocks, winding roads, streams, forests, vineyards and giving, from which each, connecting the vegetation, requiring care, is surrounded at the same time as a terrain, having its own particular vegetation. In general, the vegetation is amazing here. There are trees in Mikhorore, with walnuts with walnuts, so huge that one tree, giving three families with its fruits, that is, it gives so much income through the sale of fruits that three families have annual intake. In the estate of Hazel, we saw Camellia so huge that the flowers covered with her thousands are considered thousands, but here it is a tree, for the winter months, covered with boards, from which something in the genius of the barn is compiled. In Massandra, Prince Vorontsov, Tobacco is not inferior to Turkish and Wine perfectly.

Finally, we come to the Tatar village of Alushta, from where, turning to the Chatyr Dag, we break up with the southern shore ...

The car rushed, and behind the back,
With semi-seamy naval antique,
Dusty dust hid in Sevastopol.
And the gaze is an impatient string:
Most likely the sea threw the wave,
To pepper before a lush country
All stunning embroidering
And cypress and poplar!
Letim - and like the Crimea of \u200b\u200bZchacha,
Fly - and, as if in hoops,
We are in ridges stewing awesome:
Yes, soon I will spin waves swing?
Fly - and right on the shoulders
Grounds cliffs ... Touch - and fuck!
Fly, teasing fear -
Then under the mountains, on the mountains, -
And at least the sea is far Merzian!
Already ready Crimea Porician ...
Letim, fly ... Sports dusty dust.
Letim, fly - and in your way
In the span of the gate and - oh! And - ah!
Oh! - and in open eyes
Space brilliant scope,
Marine exclaus spaces!

NO Ratings YET)

Still poem:

1. The gate creak all day, rattles the glass window. Raise the crow against the wind is hard and, without setting the roll, crouching somehow, rushes in the wind instantly in full dusk ravine! Lean to the fence ...
2. Here it is, the element of the wave, in restless fame of the draft! Like a running, pouring, wants to meet me. But the Moscow life bridge so pulled me into the bad things, that is about and from the sea ...
3. In the mountains, the mountains in the mountains are gray, in the mountains, the mountains are rummaged in the mountains, the stream rattles, yesterday only former snow, clay rinses, hard yesterday. And we are easy! Above us sun gutters ...
4. All of you wrapped a fur coat fluffy, in a dream with a serene, calming, lie. Does not die here air rays, this transparent, white quiet. In the calm of the rest of the deep, no, I was not in vain I was looking for you ....
5. "Graph background - der Palen." - Hands on shoulders. Eyes in the eyes, Mouth of Isiny - bloodless. - "How to yourself. Yes, the fear will be shown. Graph background - der Palen. I believe untouche! "...
6. Not once with you in the forefall, where the houses are whiten over the sea, we dreamed of: would like to live here, as if in Paradise, taking relatives only books. Ile in the steppes, seeing ...
7. We told us someone about the lazy Fedot. All day he is in a hammock sleeping with an umbrella in his hand. In the garden name Fedot, he says: "Lucky ..." says: "I'll go then," and yawns under ... "
8. "For the heat of the soul, squandered in the desert ..." Lermontov still, like a Gulliver, I will be sewn to you with love of love, and in this one more fit, I'm sorry for my sorry! No, you are not random lot ...
9. Words fly in the bookscripts. I wandered in the characterists. Suddenly, the Word is drunk, like Nightingale - I'm going to the stairs to run soon, and I prevent the word for sure the corridor, like a journey under the Burgorn Luna ...
10. And he will come - an hour of accomplishment, and behind the moon in his turn circle of daily rotation the land is tired closed. And, exposed silver breeds in deep sleeping ores, from the poles of the grouse of ice (
11. He taught Mendeleev that he needs to look at the north. "Russia," he said, "didn't know the tsuushima, if the northern way!" The scientist did not live ... his indication, his prediction came true. Stubborn ...
12. Angel, the days of my keeper, sat with a lamp in the room. He kept my abode where I lay and sick. Undisited by a non-aid, from the comrades, I dreamed. And for each other prey ...
13. In the evening, the evening was mistaken in the evening! .. And Grad Peter stumbled with her head in a white cloak of silver ... And immediately, for a start, with a languid cry, in the distance, slipped and fell ...
14. You encouraged the city, all overwhelmed daylight, and silk feces in a quiet house, and relatives of the voice. Perhaps the juicy moon flickering fruits over the river, perhaps, clear maturity in vain ...
15. I love you in far wagon, In yellow lights of the fire. Like dance and as if pursuing, you fly at night through me. I love you - black from the light, right ...

You are reading verse by Baidar Gate, Poet Casin Vasily Vasilyevich

Foros church. View from the tunnel

In the pre-war years is not a form of a church, and this tunnel was a business card of the form. Many postcards and photos of this tunnel were published. During the war he was undermined. It was finally destroyed in the post-war time.

Tunnel at the Baidar gate. 1905 year

* Standing near the Baidar gate, it seemed impossible to descend from this height without fading the heart and secret fear, but when we were moved, fear disappeared instantly; The highway is so beautiful that the depreciation is barely noticeable.

This descent reminded me of a descent to the Mleothers in the Caucasus in the Military Road. The highway and there, for 15 miles go on Good-grief endless convulsions and the place where you left on top of the mountain, hangs right above your head when you reach her soles. There the mountains are higher and covered with snow, but here they are more picturesque and on the one hand, their barking.

Having left the versts three from the Baidar gate, where mountain Ridge Yayla, in its impregnable enforcement, it was impossible to go down, breaks through the rock. This tunnel has a suction of the 20th in length, quite wide and quite consistent with the surrounding terrain and formidable rocks, chopped in a chaotic disorder from the top of the Yayla to its foot.
"Memories of Crimea" Princess Elena Sergeevna Gorchakova
http://www.bigyalta.com.ua/node/2617

In November 41, there was a terrible fight. He knew that once was near the church tunnel, blown up during the war, but never seen his photos. .


Grotto Forros
At the Foros Church. Alexander Terletsky. To remember

Therefore, today there is an opportunity to talk about the events of November 1941 and about the hero-border guard Alekandre Terletsk.

"... Then the German shelves and divisions rushed to Sevastopol, walked along the road roads, seeded through the trails, passes and the gorge, were looking for any loophole - just to make the city from Sushi. Along the shore, spa towns and settlements were burned, from their colors sea.
At the "Chuckers" someone prevented:
- Oh, the Baidar gate would hold them!
- At the tunnel?
- Sure! There, two machine guns can be put in the battalion.
And every other day or the other - I do not remember - the people of the forest house were aggravated: some border guards at the Baidar gate have done so that it is difficult to believe. For the whole day they detained the German motorized avant-garde. Corpses there - not read.
... Alexander Terletsky - the head of the Foros Border Charger - urgently caused the commander of the Major Rubtsov.
- Where is your family, junior lieutenant?
- Evacuated, Comrade Major.
- Okay. Level twenty border guards and come with them to me.
No one knew why they were built so suddenly. The commander of the part personally walked around the system, looked at everyone in his eyes.
- We are leaving, and you stay. You will keep Germans from the tunnel for a day. Remember - day! And however, to keep them! Who is terrible - confess!
The system was silent. The commander gave time to prepare, Terletsky took part in farewell to the side:
- If what happens, Ekaterina Pavlovna and Sashká will be preserved. Go, Alexander Stepanovich.
In a close gorge, the distant artillery explosions are buzzing - Sevastopol beats. On a stone patch, hung over the precipice, there is a tobacco shed - a thick-walled, from the ringing diorita.
Inside empty, under the breeze plays a dry tobacco leaf, rustling. Only in the attic barely audible voices - there are border guards there.
Someone comes to the shed, knocks on the door. In response - no sound.
The unexpected automata stitches the door. Narrow beams of light from pocket lanterns shake dark corner.
The Germans are included. Breathing is passing, tarators, searched.
Slowly crashes dawn.
Eyes from the attic counted the soldiers. There were eight-tall, young, without casak, with automatic belts.
Behind the walls, bouncing on the SIZY stones, rustled mountain water, far in the West was woken by the front.
In this already familiar noise, new sounds began to be cautiously - German cars crawled to the tunnel.
From the attic shelted automatic queue - no soldier rose.
- pick up weapons, documents! - Terletsky first jumped off the attic. - Remove, cover with tobacco!
There is no trail left, only under the breeze, as before, plays a dry tobacco leaf, rustle.
Light. Terletsky looked at the tunnel, painted: the night explosion was not so strong.
Showed his border guards:
- Bad job! Do you understand me?
Below the tunnel stopped armored personnel carriers, soldiers were poured out of them.
- Do you understand me? - once again asked Terletsky and lay down the machine gun installed in the attic. - And quiet!
- Johann! - Voice from below.
- Do not shoot! Suitable - bayonet. Beduch, you will assign you.
- I understood.
- Johann! - Voice at the most doors.
The doors were scrupted, shuddered, a helmet appeared and immediately rolled on yellow tobacco leaves.
Motor food approached the tunnel. Soldiers got lost, began to sew stones.
At the same time, two machine guns hit. Those who were at the tunnel drew. Only killed and wounded remained.
Machine guns scribbled by conveyors.
... A day passed. Already on the tobacco shed, neither the attic or doors. Stone Easpens remained, there were alive five border guards from the Foros head.
Terletsky, black from Gary, in a wasoring overcoat, lying after the last machine gun.
"Ten pomegranate, two packed disks, Comrade Commander," said the sergeant Beduch.
Tanks approached. The guns are on the shed elast. Hit the straight entry.
The border guards jumped up to the time the new volley to the base cut off the whole right of the shed.
... The headquarters of the Balaklava partisan squad, the headquarters of the Balaklavsky partisan detachment, the five border guards were introduced - fearful, with failed eyes, barely standing on their feet. One of them, high, serious, putting a hand to the visor, reported:
- A group of border guards of the Foros head out of a combat task ... - The border guard fell.
- So did you hold the Baidar gate? Asked Ahlishin, raising Terletsky.
... Alexander Terletsky became Commissioner Balaklava Detachment. "
"... rose to the road. Terletsky and two radar. Terletsky listened. Quiet.

Let's go, "whispered and ran across the road. For him radists. He is in a caticker, on the trail and here ... an explosion! They appeared on the secret mine. Radies died. Terletsky fell without memory.

In the morning, the residents of the village of Baidar saw how a dozen fascists led along the street of a high Soviet commander in the wasping, bloody overcoats, with a bandaged head.

The commander was driven by the villagers. They were introduced by one, shown on the contused commander, whose face was already developed.

The gray eyes of Terletsky were motionless of those who led to him. The commandant asked the same thing:

This is who?

Those were silent, although I knew Alexander Stepanovich, the outpost of which was for the pass from the sea. The full-time stake continued the next day, this time the residents of the village of Siel were answered. Hoodly approached a thin man with a violation of a policeman and shouted:

So Terletsky! Head of Foros Outpost and Of course, partisans.
Not far from the Baidar gate is a lonely church. Here, the restaurant was here, tourists came here and from the site, what the church was admired by the southern coast.

In the cold March day, several women in battered clothes, with knots on thin shoulders, frightened to the retaining wall. From the bottom, from the side of the Yalta, the black machine is treated, the black machine approached. Stopped. The Germans in black stinsels pulled out a slightly living person from the body. He could not stand. The fascists laid the rope of the knees of the lying and dragged to the abyss. Something poured into his mouth and put on the most disconck. The officer and Skiel policeman approached. The officer shouted something, showed down, for foros, at sea. Skiel Polyzay shouted:

Consite, fooling! Now you will be dropped into the abyss ...

The officer retreated for two steps, and the policeman wound the end of the rope to the cast-iron parapet rack.

The fascists pushed Terletsky into the abyss. Fucking falling stones. Shouted one of the women and froze.


The officer looked at the clock for a long time. Waved his hand. The soldiers pulled the rope - appeared to have fallen bare feet. Terletsky threw in a puddle, he moved, opened his eyes, looked closely at women, tilt his head and began to eat greedily. His hurriedly picked up his hands, raised, threw into the car. She was silent toward Baidar.

This is a husband husband, our waitress. Yes, Catherine Pavlovna. She has a son - Sashko.

Lord, what they did with the man!

Gas out a clear day. Bared drums. On the curves of the streets, soldiers, policemen ran. The inhabitants of Skel were driven to the granaries, on the nominated Mathitis of which loop dangled.

Under Sevastopol, the cannonal salts thundered.

Terletsky fiber on the street. Throw down under the gallows.

More volley. Below, in the Baidar Valley, - a cloud of thick smoke. It hit the marine battery. Terletsky suddenly raised his head, listened and looked at the silent crowd for a long time, then came up to a stool under the loop, pushed the executioner and rose himself to the scaffold.

The salts were sinking with a new power - one by one. Terletsky turned his face to the front and, having collected the last forces, shouted:

Live, Sevastopol! "(I. Vergasov" Crimean Tetradi ")

After the war, Ekaterina Pavlovna Terletskaya (Hero's wife) and border guards found his remains and reburied in the park in Foros.

(I. Vergasov "Crimean Tetradi")
Source http://www.rusproject.org/history/history_10/krym_terleckij.

* I just went on the road yesterday, which mentioned above. The road to Foros during the existence of the tunnel was not through it, but from the church towards the Mountry Mountain, descending by Serpentine and returning to the Red Rock and removing it again ... and in the end, Sevastopol - Yalta goes on the track. http://www.odnoklassniki.ru/baydarskay/album/51476252852405.


Tunnel


Tunnel at the Baidar gate, old postcard from the House-Museum of Chekhov in Yalta

The Baidar gate is one of the amazing attractions of the Crimean Peninsula. The Baidar gates are located on the old Sevastopol road, between the villages of Foros and Orliny.

Geographic coordinates of the Baidar gate on the map of the Crimea GPS N 44.406153, E 33.782005.

- The monument, which was built in 1848 in honor of the end of the Grand Construction for the time, namely the road, which was connected by the city of Yalta and Sevastopol. The strategic importance of this road is difficult to overestimate - in those days it was the second road leading to Yalta. The first was built in 1837, she tied to Yalta and Simferopol, as a result of the city received a new direction for communication and trade. Now Yalta had three possible ways: sea and two roads to the western and northern direction of Crimea. In the mid-19th century, Turkey's claims were still strong to the Crimean Peninsula and Each new road Given significant opportunities for maneuver troops, rapid and imperceptible crossing them on the peninsula.

By the construction and development of this part of Crimea was engaged in Vorontsov. According to his order in honor of the end of construction work and a portico was built by architect K.I. Eschliman, together with looking platformwhich opens a wonderful view of the sea.
The Baidar gate is located at an altitude of 604 meters above sea level, between the Mountains of the CHCH Bair and Clalebi. From the Baidar gate, one of the best types of Foros Church, Cape Ayia and Laspi Bay.

Planning a trip to the Baidar Gate, usually visited the second attractions on the route, namely, the Forrian Church. Its construction gave an invaluable experience of the construction of complex objects on the edge of the cliff and on the climbing terrain in the Crimea. After the Foros church, one of the most famous sights of Crimea was built - Swallow's nest.

Get to the Baidar gate can From the side of Sevastopol: Driving Balaklava and Biker Club "Night Wolves", you need to find a turn to the Eagle village or find a pointer "Restaurant Shalash"; Further along the main road and after 20 minutes you have a goal. The second option: climb from the form, there is a turn towards the gate marked with a large pointer "Slash restaurant"; The road in front of the tunnel sharply goes into the right, 20 minute lifting and you are a foros church, another 5 minutes in the mountain and you are on the Baidar gate.

Near the Baidar gate There is a restaurant with beautiful views and good meals, mainly consisting of ethnic Crimean cuisine. As well as a small market with souvenirs and fur products. Almost all products on the handmade market, sellers are mainly from the nearby mountain village Orlin.

A visit to the Baidar gate And - a very interesting adventure, the road is much better than on, the slopes and turns are not so sharp and the serpentine is not so much. On the way, from the side, there will be several mountain sourcesbuilt at the end of the 19th century. In the summer, water flows only from one, and all the rest of the time both sources work. Therefore, if possible, take a container with you for a water set.

Baidar gate on the map of Crimea

Baidar Valley is an adorable and cute place of the South-West Crimea. Even Toponim Baidar-Oova confirms said: Paidar in Turkic languages \u200b\u200b- great, excellent, ov - valley.

Preserved here old road From Sevastopol to Yalta, it crosses the valley and through a shallow gorge goes to the Bajdar Pass (527 m above sea level). To the west of the Baidar gate, the vertices of the Chelyabi (655m) are raised with a rocky rock, serving to the south - Mountain Foros (563 m) or a rupture, to East Mount Chhhu Bair (705 meters).

In 1787, committing an exceptionally complex and long-time journey in 5657 versts (there was use-Vano 14 carriage, 124 pairs of sled, the retinue reached 3,000 people), here was her imperial Majesty Ekaterina II. Route It traveling in Crimeadid not include, unfortunately (due to the lack of furniture), the whole southern coast, however, following Balaclava In the direction of Karasubazar (now Belogorsk), the impertree still rose to the wilderness of the Baydar-Bogaz and the book "the edge of the eye" looked into a fabulous country, which was subsequently called the "best pearl" of his crown ... Suppressed Years when the pass was already quite equipped, and the road from Yalta in Sevastopol did not seem to be a serious obstacle to trips in the crews, and the emperor Nicholas I visited here. He called the Bajdar "Russian Symplon" pass, firmly and solidly putting the sign of equality between recognized landscape beauty Alps and only on tourist fashion of the Russian aristocracy of the mountain Crimea.

The road passing through the pass was built by order of the Governor of Novorossia M.S. Vorontsov, built under the direction of the Colonel Slavic engineer.

Military builders, Russian soldiers are prone to the construction of the road. Construction ra-bots were repeatedly interrupted (in 1830-1831 due to epidemics of plague and cholera), accompanied human victims (In 1834, a mountain collapse occurred on the pass, which killed the fourth-ro soldier-builders ...). But still, in spite of everything, the road was built. .

In memory of the construction of the construction in 1848, on the project of the architect K.I. Eschliman at the transfer point was erected, preserved to our time, the stone arc Baidar gate., peculiar "pa-indent" entrance to South Coast. The Baidar gate from the architectural point of view is a portico from blocks produced by limestone with a complex cornice, flanked by half-column and overlapped by antablem. On the parties to portica, the cabinets are adjacent in the form of rectangles made from limestone and giving a monumental type of gates. A staircase leads to the species platforms at the top of the propelleev.

The Baidar pass is not the highest in the Crimea, but the strip of the southern coast here is quite narrow and the sea will approach the foot of the mountain cliffs and rocks. And, of course, the view from this pass is perhaps the most spectacular and impressive. And the most unexpected.

Only the road climbed on the relatively gentle northern slopes of the main ridge, looping in the mountain forest, as in an elegant green tunnel. And here, on the pass, suddenly opened the horizon. Ahead, where only the eye is enough, sparkles and overflow the sea, the green carpet of gardens, parks and vineyards spread deeply downstairs; The church on the rock complements this picturesque picture and, as if guarding all these beauties, like giants, hanging the rumbers of steep and torn rocks.

Of course, this kind is unlikely to leave anyone indifferent - and even more so people are creative, people of art, which visited artists, poets, writers, musicians.

The road goes. Thickets, valleys ... Flames day cloudless and bright.

We go without rest dear long, and here I suddenly hear: Baidars!

I look - the gate ... two rages of desert, and then? Next ... or are these spells?!

These enthusiastic, wonderful lines belong to the issuing Ukrainian poetess Forest Ukrainian (L.P. Koshach-Kvitka).

In 1890, being in the Crimea, a deadly sick poetess of many traveled, drawing from the Crimean nature inspiration for his creativity and, probably, vitality. In the same year, the passage from Sevastopol in Yalta, she visited Baidars. Bajdara conquered her, this poem was born, which VPO investment entered the poetic cycle of Crimean memories.

Modest Mussorgsky wrote the piano play "Bajdara".

Polish poet Adam Mitzkevich, author of the amazing cycle "Crimean Sonnets", which became the crown of his trip to the Crimea in the summer of 1825, one of the sonnets dedicated to these places. I.Bunin very much loved these lines that prompted him to study Polish.

Baidar Valley.

Spend like mad, on a mad horse:

Valleys, rocks, forest flashes before me,

By changing how the wave in the stream for wave ...

That swirl of images will fall - anyone!

But exhausted the horse. On the ground poured

Mysterious megro with darkening heavens,

And before fatty eyes all rushing

That vikhori style - valleys, rocks, forest ...

Everything sleeps, don't sleep - and to the sea

I run away:

Here with noise black shaft suits: greedily i

I tend to him and arrange hands ...

Threw out, he closed: chaos leaked me -

And I, as in the abyss, a twist, I expect

What tastes though on the moment the thought of my thought.

And the famous Russian journalist Uncle Gilyai, Moscow reporter and poet Vladimir Gilyarovsky expressed his feelings no less emotion:

And above us, and under us

Then azure, the sea steel -

With clouds and waves

Pearl Dal ...

On the way we rush down we,

Injins the fragrance

Self-auction stones prism

In the brilliance sunny burn.

Self-aged stones are not only a poetic image. In the southern cliff of the mountains with a half-day name of Yaurn-Churn-Belie, underground balls were found, once filled with Icelandic Plum (and this is the same quilt, but only a colorless, transparent and possession of the ability to bobily refractive light). When studying the living calcite, emptiness was found in it. The fact that the crystals of transparent minerals sometimes contain "prisoners" - emptiness with a liquid in which the gas bubble floats, they knew in deep antiquity: "... As if the hostage, the drop is lighted in it. This water attaches a special value of the crystal, "the Roman poet Octavius \u200b\u200bKlavdian wrote.

Once, in former times, the transparent crystals of Icelandic from the veins were sold, unfortunately, now exhausted.

The most consonant solemn granolas of these seats Willing lines of the poet A.K. Tolstoy who lived in Melas. He drove pass with the bride Sophia Andreevna in 1865

Fog rises at the bottom of Swim,

Among the midnight coolness

Wild cumin smells stronger

We rarely leaning waterfalls.

How dazzling moon!

How the mountains are treated tops!

In the Supreme Dusk is visible

Below the Baidar Valley.

Above we are shine,

Black and the end of us,

Shipping brilliant dew

On the leaves of large tears ...

The soul is easy: I do not hear I

Okov of earthly existence

No fear, nor hope

What will happen to what was before -

I don't care - and that me

Always like a chain, to earth pulled,

Everything disappeared with anxiety of the day,

All in the lunar shine caught ...

Where is the thought of the

What does she see so looked so much?

Do not medium magic to sleep

Do we go along the cliff together?

You go, the timidity is full,

To me bowed silently?

I really see not in a dream,

How stars shook in the embroidery,

How the horse steps carefully

How does your breast breathe alarming?

Or with a deceptive moon

I only tease the ghost false

And is it a dream? Oh if i

It was impossible to wake up!

Ivan Bunin, the Nobel laureate, many times visited the Crimea, looked fixed to this edge, and love did not go, even in distant emigration.

Lights ... above the sea, over a color cloud,

Azure morning brightens:

Verses of Baidar bizarre

It is unclear and gently blue.

As a mirror - the sea ... does not splash the surf ...

Under the light fate of the fog

In the gorges, where Dusk is crowded night,

Also cool and early ...

But with each minute in the dawn rays

We clear and shore and the sea ...

As wonderful here, in these green mountains,

Spring Fresh Dawns! ..

In conclusion - excerpt from the "Guide Guide" Grigory Moskvich for 1912

"We barely crossed the gate on the other side, the magnificent sea opens in all its beauty and unspecified magnificence: there is below, far, it is flowing in a deep fog, laughing, sparkling, sparkling and a dedicated blooming shore. When sunrise, purple-golden clouds, covered with a solid wall of the horizon by the sea, in combination with the luxurious greens of the valley, on which there are still nightness, gives a picture that opens from the Baidar gate, special charm. A platform is arranged above the gate, with which species are still majestic, even grande. "

P.S. From 1848 to 1972, the Baidar Pass was the only expensive leading to Sevastopol on the part of the South Coast, and only after the construction of the Yalta-Sevastopol's highway through Laspinsky Pass, the Baidar gate is becoming not just a "road" landmark, but a place re-symbolizing the opening of the South Coast Crimea