The nine most dangerous peaks in the world. The most dangerous mountains in the world The steepest mountain in the world

In the list below, I have selected the most beautiful and interesting peaks for climbing. When compiling the list, I tried to cover the most interesting areas of our planet, but for each area I chose fairly accessible, technically uncomplicated mountain peaks that are accessible to most mountain tourists who are familiar with the basic skills of moving in the mountains. The peaks are grouped by height, starting with mountains a little over 2000 meters high and ending with 8000+.

Peaks 2000+

Petros (2020 m)

In the Carpathians, everyone knows the highest peak of Ukraine - Hoverla, but directly opposite there is a less visited, but equally interesting peak of the Carpathians.

Best time: June-September
Hiking/climbing days: 1-3
Difficulty: trekking

Triglav (2864 m)

The highest peak and the national symbol of Slovenia. Located in the massif of the Julian Alps.

Climbing days: 1-2
Difficulty of the simplest route: walking, scrambling (~1B)

Zugspitze (2962 m)

The highest point in Germany. Can be combined with a very beautiful three or four day hike in the area.

A story about climbing the Zugspitze in July 2016

Peaks 3000+

Sugar Pseashkho (3189 m)

Beautiful and most affordable trekking three-thousander of the Western Caucasus in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana.
Hiking/climbing days: 2-3
Difficulty: trekking

The story about the ascent to Sakharny Pseashkho in June 2012

Agepsta (3256 m)

The most spectacular peak over 3000 meters in Krasnaya Polyana. Dream! The summit is located right on the borders of Russia and Abkhazia and a border pass is required to climb from Krasnaya Polyana. It is easier to climb from the side of Abkhazia.
Hiking/climbing days: 3-4

Difficulty: 1A

Best time: June - September

The story of the ascent to Agepsta in July 2017

Munku-Sardyk (3491 m)

The highest peak of the Sayans, on the very border with Mongolia.

Best time: July-August

Semyonov-Bashi (3602 m)

A simple (1B k.t.), but already quite a high trekking peak in the vicinity of the Alibek alpine camp on Dombai

Teide volcano (3718 m)

Volcano on the island of Tenerife Canary Islands). The highest peak in Spain.

Best time: April-May, September-October
Duration: 1+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Mount Cook (3754 m)

Highest peak in New Zealand, South Island.

Fujiyama (3776 m)

Volcano, the highest peak in Japan. A must when visiting the Land of the Rising Sun!

Grossglockner (3798 m)

The highest peak in Austria.

Once I already managed to walk at its foot, but, so far, not at the top :)

Ak-Oyuk (3860 m)

Beautiful peak in the Katunsky ridge Gorny Altai not far from the majestic Belukha. The beginning of the route is directly from the Akkem lake.

The easiest route: 2A-2B

Belalakaya (3861 m)

Our answer to the Swiss Matterhorn and Dombai's calling card. Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful (if not the most beautiful) peak of the Caucasus. Unfortunately, even the simplest route has category 3A, i.e. requires mastery of all climbing skills.

Peaks 4000+

Aktru (4075 m)

The peak in Altai with a height of 4075 meters and the alpine camp of the same name, working even in our time.

Best time: July-August
Difficulty: 1B

Breithorn (4167 m)

One of the easiest four-thousanders in the Alps. The route starts from the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn" (Little Matterhorn) in the Zermatt valley (Switzerland) at an altitude of 3884 m. The steepest section on the route is 35 degrees.

Difficulty: F+ on the Alpine scale - a simple, easy route. Climbing rocks or soft snow, moving on simple glaciers. As a rule, movement without a rope, except for movement on glaciers.

best time: all year round. Great mountain for skitour!

A beautiful and accessible peak with an ice cap in the Zailiysky Alatau ridge in the immediate vicinity of Almaty is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the Northern Tien Shan and the first ascent to peaks over 4000 meters high.

Best time: July-August
Climbing days: 1
Difficulty: 1B

Description of the route and my photo story about the hike in the Zailiysky Alatau in July 2008.

Rainier (4392 m)

Perhaps, after the Matterhorn, this is the most photographed mountain in the world. I bet your mom or grandma has a calendar with her picture? In general, the mountain is famous not only for its postcard views, but also for its extremely changeable weather!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Matterhorn (4478 m)

An icon of the Swiss Alps, and perhaps the Alps in general!

Belukha (4506 m)

The highest peak of Altai and all Siberia!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Mont Blanc (4807 m)

The highest peak of the Alps and without a doubt a cult, historical peak.

Best time: July-August
Climbing days: 5-7
Difficulty: 2A

My story about the ascent in the summer of 2011.

Peaks 5000+

Kazbek (5047 m)

Over the past few years, Georgia, and Kazbek in particular, have experienced a real boom in popularity!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Ararat (5137 m)

Perhaps, Ararat is the simplest of the available mountains with a height of more than 5000 meters. If you want to test yourself "to the heights", then without a doubt Ararat and Elbrus (more on that below) are the two best options. Despite the fact that Ararat is a symbol of Armenia, territorially the peak is located in Turkey.

best time:
Duration: 5+ days
Difficulty: 1B

Chimtarga (5489 m)

The highest peak of the Fann Mountains in Tajikistan. One of the popular areas for mountain tourism and ascents. Alpine camp is actively working, there are guides.

Best time: June-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Cala Patar (5550 m)

The highest peak accessible for climbing while trekking to base camp Everest. Apart from height, no technical difficulties. A puff and trekking boots are all the necessary equipment to admire the coolest view of Everest like the photo on the left!

Best time: April-May, October-November
Hiking/climbing days: 15
Difficulty: trekking

My story about trekking to Everest in autumn 2008

Elbrus (5642 m)

The highest peak of the Caucasus, Russia and all of Europe. The classic route "Elbrus from the South" is absolutely devoid of any technical difficulties whatsoever. The main danger and cause of accidents is the loss of the route due to a sudden deterioration in the weather.

Recently, climbing Elbrus from the north is gaining popularity.

In July-August 2012, my friend and I passed the Elbrus traverse, climbing from the north, spending the night on the saddle and descending along the southern slope.

Best time: July-August
Duration: 7-10 days,
Difficulty: 2A

Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)

The second highest but most active volcano in Ecuador. At the top is a beautiful huge crater!

Best time: December-January
Duration: 7+ days,
Difficulty: 2B

Kilimanjaro (5898 m)

A volcano known to any child in Tanzania. Mega popular among trekkers due to the exotic nature and the absolute absence of technical difficulties on the route!

Best time: January-February or September
Duration: 6+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Peaks 6000+

McKinley (6194 m)

If you don’t know what McKinley is, then it’s too early for you to read further :)

Best time: May
Duration: 15-20 days

Mera Peak (6476 m)

The highest of the "trekking peaks" of Nepal. It does not require special mountaineering training, but, of course, it implies good physical shape.

Best time: October-November (best), March-April (second season)
Duration: 18 days

Huascaran (6768 m)

The highest peak in Peru.

Best time: end of June - beginning of July
Duration: 7+ days
Description: risk.ru/users/tom/192762/

Ojos del Salado (6893 m)

The highest volcano on Earth (!) And the second highest peak South America after Aconcagua, but in appearance - an inconspicuous pupur! Located in the Atacama Desert on the border of Chile and Argentina.

Aconcagua (6962 m)

The highest point in South America. Geographically located in Argentina.

Peaks 7000+

Khan Tengri (7010 m)

Fantastic ice-stone pyramid of ideally correct form. The second peak of the Tien Shan after Pobeda. The peak is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, seven kilometers from the border with China. Thanks to its height, technical difficulty and beauty, it has become one of the iconic peaks for any climber!

Peak Lenin (7134 m)

Mountain peak located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Technically - the least difficult "seven-thousander" former USSR. Thanks to this, it is mega popular. Alpine camps work under the mountain all summer season, you can climb with qualified guides.

Peak Ismoil Somoni (Communism) (7495 m)

Once upon a time, the most high peak Soviet Union, now the highest peak in Tajikistan. Iconic mountain.

Mustag-Ata (7546 m)

One of the simplest seven-thousanders from a technical point of view. It is located on the territory of China, orographically - in the system of the Eastern Pamirs. It is possible to climb and descend on skis (skitouring).

Peaks 8000+

Shisha Pangma (8027 m)

One of the simplest eight-thousanders from a technical point of view.

Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

The second of the three simplest and safest (of course, relatively!) eight-thousanders.

Cho Oyu (8201 m)

It is considered the least difficult eight-thousander of the Himalayas. While trekking to the Everest base camp in the fall of 2008, we stood right under its grandiose wall!

Everest (8848 m)

The mountains have long attracted brave people with their impregnability, as if they were challenging them, and they never forgot to take their share - not all the conquerors of the peaks were able to return home. Many have remained forever captives of the silent giants - a good warning to those who follow in their footsteps. Every year, dozens of people die in the mountains as a result of avalanches, landslides, blowing winds and severe snowstorms. Perhaps this is how nature expresses her unwillingness to have people disturb her stone giants. But this does not make those who strive to reach the next peak less. This article lists the most dangerous mountains for ascent, in parentheses is the percentage of deaths during the conquest.

1. Annapurna (34%) , hotels nearby

  • Altitude 8091 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The nature of this peak was described very colorfully by the American climber Ed Vistours, who called it a permanent danger completely covered with ice, a single piece of ice with ice growths. Annapurna is probably the most dangerous peak in the world. On its slopes, more than a third of the climbers who tried to master it find eternal peace.
Annapurna became the first eight-thousander conquered by man. This was done in 1950 by French climbers Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog. The descent from its summit took them 14 days, and as a result of frostbite, both lost their toes, Erzog also had frostbite on his hands. This ascent is considered by climbers to be the most outstanding in history. After them, another 130 people had the courage to climb Annapurna.
She has no equal in the number of dangers that await climbers. In 2014, a terrible tragedy occurred here - 39 climbers first fell into a snow storm, and then under a series of avalanches, no one survived.


The greatness and extraordinary beauty of the mountains leaves few people indifferent. Sometimes snow-covered ridges inspire fear, sometimes they fascinate, inspire, beckon...

2. Chogori (K2) (29%) , hotels nearby

  • Height 8614 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan, China).

The highest peak of the Karakoram and the second in the world, Chogori or K2 is slightly inferior only to Everest. This peak rises on the China-Pakistan border. In terms of danger for climbing, she was far ahead of Chomolungma, second only to Annapurna. Even the simplest of the climbing routes laid along it contain sheer cliffs and overhanging pillars and blocks of glaciers. Due to the technical difficulties of climbing, every fourth climber who tries to conquer Chogori perishes.
Most often, climbers storm the summit from the Pakistani side, although there is a bottleneck here, where an avalanche can come down at any moment. In winter, conquering K2 is considered impossible. Russian climbers in 2007 were able to climb K2 along the most difficult route - along the western slope, which until now was considered impregnable.

3. Nanga Parbat (21%) , hotels nearby

  • Height 8126 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan).

Until climbers chose Everest for climbing, it was Nanga Parbat that was the deadliest peak, for which it was even nicknamed the killer mountain. It is located in the northwest of the Himalayas. The summit can only be reached via a very narrow ridge, and at 4,600 m, the southern side is the highest slope in the world. The first to conquer Nanga Parbat was Hermann Buhl in 1953. He walked for 40 hours without an oxygen mask and an ice ax. Since then, 263 people have climbed this peak, and 62 have not returned. But the extreme complexity of the ascent only attracts extreme people, especially many who want to compete with the impregnable southern slope.

4. Dhaulagiri I (16%) , hotels nearby

  • Height 8167 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

This is the seventh highest peak in the world. Even venerable climbers often get lost on it. The southern slope of Dhaulagiri I is still impregnable - among climbers, climbing it is equated with suicide. The most dangerous for climbers are local avalanches. This peak was the penultimate eight-thousander, who submitted to people. The first group to climb it was a group of Swiss and Austrian climbers with two Sherpas. Later, a group of American climbers who had no experience in Himalayan ascents attempted to storm the summit from an unexplored side. A powerful avalanche took 6 climbers and two Sherpas with it. This was the worst tragedy in the mountains of Nepal at that time.

5. Kanchenjunga (15%) , hotels nearby

  • Altitude 8586 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (India, Nepal).

The name Kanchenjunga is translated as "mountain of five treasures". This is the third highest peak in the world. For the first time, climbers managed to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga after half a century of unsuccessful attempts in 1955. There are no paved routes and trails. Inclement weather and frequent avalanches further complicate the ascent. So far, only 187 people can boast of being on top of Kanchenjunga. Almost every new ascent takes another life of climbers.

6. Manaslu (Kutang) (10%) , hotels nearby

  • Height 8156 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The many-domed Mount Kutang (“mountain of spirits”) occupies the eighth position in the list of eight-thousanders of the world. Climbers preparing to conquer its main peak must be prepared not only for the usual dangers that await them - avalanches, but also for unexpected monsoons and mudflows. The first to conquer Manaslu in 1956 were Japanese climbers. This ascent remained the only successful one for a long time, until in 1971 another group of Japanese climbers reached the summit.
The threat of avalanches and technical difficulties during the ascent are somewhat less noticeable than during the descent. One of the worst tragedies in the history of mountaineering took place here, when five Korean climbers and 10 local Sherpas died on the route from a huge avalanche that demolished the intermediate camp located at around 6500 m.


On our planet, only 14 mountain peaks have a height of more than 8000 meters. Most of the peaks are located in the Himalayas and are known to everyone under the name "laqu...

7. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (9%) , hotels nearby

  • Altitude 8080 m.
  • Located in Karakoram (Pakistan).

The name Gasherbrum means "beautiful mountain". The fact that people on this " beautiful grief» perishes significantly less than on the peaks listed above, due to the fact that only the most desperate and experienced climbers think about conquering it. It was called “hidden” because when approaching it along the main route, the mountains are not visible for a long time due to powerful spurs.
For the first time this peak was conquered by a group of 8 Americans in 1958. Piet Schöning and Andy Kaufman, the first to reach the summit, reported their success with the help of mirrors to their comrades below. The legendary Reinhold Messner also climbed Gasherbrum I, and he did it in alpine style - without an intermediate camp, oxygen mask and additional equipment. He was accompanied by Hans Kammerlander - this couple crossed two eight-thousandth peaks at once during one trip. That is, they were able to conquer Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in just eight days.

8. Makalu (9%) , hotels nearby

  • Altitude 8485 m.

Already the long path to the fifth peak of the world Makalu ("black giant") contains danger, although this is only a prelude to the difficult ascent to the peak itself. This is one of the most difficult peaks in terms of climbing. Here, as well as when climbing K2, the descent is the most dangerous, during which most of the deaths occur. Such a fatality, in particular, leads to the shape of the mountain - a tetrahedral pyramid with very steep slopes, on which storms and avalanches often occur. Brave climbers Denis Urubko and Simon Moreau were able to climb this already deadly peak in winter. They had to endure wind gusts up to 120 km/h and forty-degree frosts - such conditions can kill on their own without any climbing.


Our planet has a variety of dangerous places, which have recently begun to attract a special category of extreme tourists looking for a...

9. Chomolungma (Everest) (6.74%) , hotels nearby

  • Height 8848 m.
  • Located in the Himalayas (Nepal, China).

And here is the highest peak of our planet. This fact, as well as the relative ease of conquest, made this peak the most attractive for climbing among climbers from all over the world. At some point, thanks to the efforts of technical staff and Sherpas, the route to climb Everest became as comfortable as possible, which gave rise to an entire industry around conquering the “roof of the world”. Even inexperienced rock climbers were allowed to climb. Since Hillary first climbed Everest, more than 7,000 people have made it to the top of the "roof of the world." Of these, about 250 remained on its snowy slopes, reminding with their presence the next daredevils climbing up that Chomolungma does not like jokes. Not so long ago, a strong earthquake of magnitude 7.8 hit Nepal, which cooled some hotheads. Then a lot of avalanches descended from Everest, taking dozens of Sherpas and climbers with them.
Many climbers are familiar with the local attraction - "green shoes". This is the corpse of the Indian climber Tsevang Palzhor, who died sometime during the ascent and turned into a frozen landmark, which eloquently reminds all the following climbers that you have to pay dearly for the beauty of ascents.

10. Mont Blanc , hotels nearby

  • Altitude 4810 m.
  • Located in the Alps (France, Italy).


Although Mont Blanc (“white mountain”) is almost twice as low as the Himalayan eight-thousanders, it is the highest peak in Western Europe, yielding highest peaks Caucasus. It is an integral part of the crystalline mountain range, on which popular ski resorts Courmayeur and Chamonix. From a technical point of view, the ascent to Mont Blanc is not too difficult, but almost every year there are deaths due to frequent avalanches and bad weather conditions. In 1741, the Englishmen Richard Pocock and William Wyndham first climbed the neighboring peak of Montenvieu, and Mont Blanc itself was conquered in 1786 by the French Jacques Balma and Michel Paccard.

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Mountains have always challenged man, attracted him and teased him with their impregnability. And, tragic as it may seem, not all of those who accept this challenge and leave to conquer the peaks come back later. Some remain captives of the mountains forever, warning the one who follows in their footsteps.
Mountains cause dozens of deaths every year. Landslides and avalanches, a blizzard and wind ripping off clothes from the body - it seems that nature itself does not want people to disturb its stone giant children. But those who want to climb the next peak do not become less from this. And today you have a dozen deadly peaks in front of you, the conquest of which turns into a real Russian roulette.

Everest

Location: Nepal, China. Himalayas
Height: 8 848 m

Everest is the modern Golgotha. Everyone who has the courage and decides to climb the mountain that breathes grave cold knows that the chance to return may not fall. The bodies of those who are no longer destined to descend will certainly remind of this. Of the more than 7,000 who climbed Everest, about 250 people are officially considered dead. IN percentage this figure is not so great, but the statistics cease to reassure and turn into a waking nightmare when you get up and see the bodies of those who also believed in their invulnerability.

Annapurna

Location: Nepal. Himalayas
Height: 8 091 m

Annapurna is best described in the words of the American climber Ed Vitus: “Annapurna is one continuous danger, completely covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the question is which way the next growth will turn, forward or backward. Annapurna is considered to be one of the most dangerous mountains. About 40% of climbers who tried to conquer it remain lying on its slopes.

Mont Blanc

Location: France, Italy. Alps
Altitude: 4 695 m

Mont Blanc or white mountain- the highest massif in the mountain range and the highest peak in Europe. Among climbers, Mont Blanc is not considered particularly dangerous for climbing, but by some sinister twist of fate it breaks records for mortality. Over the history of ascents, numbering more than two centuries, the slopes of the White Mountain claimed the lives of several thousand climbers - a figure that even Everest is far from.

Nanga Parbat

Location: Pakistan. Himalayas
Height: 8 126 m

Before Everest gained its popularity among climbers, it was Nanga Parbat that held the lead in the number of climbers who died on its slopes. For which she received the nickname of the Killer Mountain. In 1953, trying to get to its top, 62 people died at once. Since then, apparently, the mountain has quenched its thirst for blood. To date, mortality has decreased significantly - to 5.5%.

Kanchenjunga

Location: Nepal, India. Himalayas
Height: 8 586 m

This is the third highest mountain in the world. Kanchenjunga is a true climber's nightmare, as inclement weather reigns here all the time and avalanches break down every now and then. Only 190 daredevils managed to climb to the top of Kanchenjunga, and the mortality among climbers here reaches 22%.

K2

Location: Pakistan, China. Himalayas
Height: 8 614 m

Mount K2 or Chogori provides the maximum extreme conditions for the ascent. This mountain knows no mercy and does not forgive mistakes - every fourth climber who tries to reach its top dies. In winter, climbing is not possible at all. Our compatriots have made their contribution to the history of climbing K2. On August 21, 2007, Russian climbers managed to climb the most difficult route, along the western slope of the summit, which was considered impassable until that time.

Aigar

Location: Switzerland, Alps
Height: 3970 m

Eigar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world, despite its insignificant height. He is often referred to as "The Cannibal". Big problems for climbers turn into an incredibly large height difference and constantly changing weather. For a century and a half of ascents, the summit claimed the lives of 65 people.

Fitzroy

Location: Argentina, Chile. Patagonia
Height: 3 359 m

This majestic granite peak is both the most unvisited and one of the most dangerous. mountain peaks. On average, there is only one successful ascent per year. The climber faces two problems at once: firstly, in order to climb to the top, you need to overcome a sheer section of rock 600 meters high, and secondly, inclement weather that can last for weeks can generally discourage any desire to climb the rocks. In addition, you can climb Fitzroy only from December to February - the summer months in the southern hemisphere.

Vinson Massif

Location: Antarctica
Height: 4 892 m

The highest mountains of Antarctica are not considered too difficult to climb in the climbing environment. Since 1958, about one and a half thousand people have climbed their peaks. The hardest part is getting to the array itself. Antarctica is a good place for penguins, but it's easy for people to freeze to death or perish in a blizzard here.

Matterhorn

Location: Switzerland, Italy. Alps
Height: 4 478 m

One of the most difficult peaks in the Alps to conquer - its northern slope is generally considered impregnable and technically the most difficult to conquer. Frequent avalanches and rockfalls do not facilitate the ascent. However, in 1865, the summit of the Matterhorn was conquered twice at once. True, the first group of four people fell into the abyss due to a cable break.

Mountains have always challenged man, attracted him and teased him with their impregnability. And, tragic as it may seem, not all of those who accept this challenge and leave to conquer the peaks come back later. Some remain captives of the mountains forever, warning the one who follows in their footsteps. In honor of the release of the film "Everest" in Russian distribution, we present you with a dozen deadly peaks, the conquest of which turns into a real Russian roulette.

Annapurna
Location: Nepal. Himalayas
Height: 8 091 m
Annapurna is best described in the words of the American climber Ed Vitus: “Annapurna is one continuous danger, completely covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the question is which way the next growth will turn, forward or backward. Annapurna is considered to be one of the most dangerous mountains. About 40% of climbers who tried to conquer it remain lying on its slopes.

Everest
Location: Nepal, China. Himalayas
Height: 8 848 m
Everest is the modern Golgotha. Everyone who has the courage and decides to climb the mountain that breathes grave cold knows that the chance to return may not fall.
Of the more than 7,000 who climbed Everest, about 250 people are officially considered dead. In percentage terms, this figure is not so large, but the statistics cease to reassure and turn into a nightmare when you rise and see the bodies of those who also believed in their invulnerability.

Nanga Parbat
Location: Pakistan. Himalayas
Height: 8 126 m
Before Everest gained its popularity among climbers, it was Nanga Parbat that held the lead in the number of climbers who died on its slopes. For which she received the nickname of the Killer Mountain. In 1953, trying to get to its top, 62 people died at once. Since then, apparently, the mountain has quenched its thirst for blood. To date, mortality has decreased significantly - to 5.5%.

K2
Location: Pakistan, China. Himalayas
Height: 8 614 m
Mount K2 or Chogori provides the most extreme conditions for climbing. This mountain knows no mercy and does not forgive mistakes - every fourth climber who tries to reach its top dies. In winter, climbing is not possible at all. Our compatriots have made their contribution to the history of climbing K2. On August 21, 2007, Russian climbers managed to climb the most difficult route, along the western slope of the summit, which was considered impassable until that time.

Aigar
Location: Switzerland, Alps
Height: 3970 m
Eigar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world, despite its insignificant height. He is often referred to as "The Cannibal". Big problems for climbers turn into an incredibly large height difference and constantly changing weather. For a century and a half of ascents, the summit claimed the lives of 65 people.

Fitzroy
Location: Argentina, Chile. Patagonia
Height: 3 359 m
This majestic granite peak is both the most unvisited and one of the most dangerous mountain peaks. On average, there is only one successful ascent per year. The climber faces two problems at once: firstly, in order to climb to the top, you need to overcome a sheer section of rock 600 meters high, and secondly, inclement weather that can last for weeks can generally discourage any desire to climb the rocks. In addition, you can climb Fitzroy only from December to February - the summer months in the southern hemisphere.

When attempts are made to conquer the highest and most dangerous peaks, the process resembles a "hussar roulette". First of all, we are talking about climbing the mountains "eight-thousanders". It is well known that at an altitude of 5000 m above sea level in the human body, which has not undergone special training, there is a lack of oxygen, its adaptation and overall performance decrease.

At an altitude of more than 8000 meters, the amount of oxygen decreases significantly and is only 30% of the norm required for the human body, such conditions are very dangerous for health.

So, the most dangerous mountains where the so-called physiological zone of the atmosphere ends.

Tibet, Western Nepal

Mountain (Tibet, Western Nepal) - 8091 meters above sea level. The Annapurna mountain range is part of the Main Himalayan Range. The top of Annapurna is considered the most difficult to climb. In confirmation of this - the names of the mountains, given local residents: Durga - "Impregnable", Kali - "Black", "Terrible". The death rate when trying to conquer it reaches 41%.

Annapurna

Annapurna has earned fame as the first eight-thousander in history conquered by man. It was first crossed by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3, 1950. They spent about 14 days on the descent from the mountain, the result of severe frostbite was the loss of all toes, and Maurice also had frostbite on his hands. It is also believed that this is the most outstanding achievement in the history of world mountaineering.

Since the first ascent, another 130 people have tried to climb to the top. In terms of the danger that awaits rock climbers, Annapurna has no equal in the world. One of the biggest tragedies happened here in 2014, when 39 climbers were caught in snow storms and a series of avalanches. All died.

Chogori K2

The mountain peak in the Karakoram, Chogori K2 - 8611 meters above the sea surface, occupies the second position among the highest points in the world. It rises up on the border of Pakistan and China. Chogori is considered dangerous for human climbing from a technical point of view. Even the easiest of her routes involve overcoming steep cliffs, glaciers in the form of overhanging blocks and pillars. It is technical difficulties that explain the 25% death rate of extreme people trying to conquer K2.

Most climbers prefer to overcome the route from Pakistan. But even here danger lies in wait for them - the narrowest point of the path, where avalanches can overtake at any moment. Conquering K2 in winter is considered impossible.

Nanga Parbat

Mount Chogori, according to the technical complexity of the routes, is slightly inferior to Mount Nanga Parbat (“Naked Mountain”), reaching 8126 m. The peak is located in the northwestern part Himalayan mountains. The only way to get to the top is by walking along a very narrow ridge - the southern side (4600 meters high) is recognized as the largest mountain slope in the world.

Nanga Parbat was first climbed in 1953 by Herman Buhl. The rock climber undertook a 40-hour ascent without the help of an ice ax and oxygen. Since then, 263 people have climbed it, and 62 climbers have died over the entire period. The death rate is 21%. The mountains received the well-deserved name "Mountains-killers" and "Absorbers of man." But, despite this, the mountain attracts extreme people, especially the non-criminal ice wall of the southern slope, and daredevils challenge it.

Kanchenjunga

In India, there is another mountain that is dangerous for climbing - Kanchenjunga ("Mountain of Five Treasures"). This is the highest point of the Himalayas - 8586 meters above the sea surface and the third highest point in the world.

For half a century, Kanchenjunga remained unconquered, and only in 1955 climbers managed to reach its summit. There are no marked routes or trails on the mountain. Difficulties are added by frequent inclement weather and regular avalanches. During all this time, only 187 athletes managed to reach its peak. It is worth noting that the number of deaths only increases over time, and today it is 22%.

Mont Blanc

Mount Mont Blanc ("White Mountain") - the most high mountain Western Europe- 4810 meters. Nearby, on the mountain range of the same name, there are popular ski resorts of Chamonix and Courmayeur.

The technical characteristics of the ascent to Mont Blanc are not particularly difficult, but accidents occur every year. Unfavorable weather conditions and regular convergence of avalanches affect. For the first time, the top of Montenvieux, adjacent to Mont Blanc, was climbed in 1741 by the British - William Wyndham and Richard Pocock. And already in August 1786, Michel Paccard and Jacques Balma conquered Mont Blanc.

Matterhorn

The Matterhorn (4478 meters) is known for its uniqueness. In shape, it is very reminiscent of a horn, as if growing out of a valley. It is located in a picturesque alpine area, in the border zone between Italy and Switzerland. Despite its relatively low height, this peak has the highest mortality rate in Alpine mountains. As the complexity they call: avalanches, rockfalls, technical characteristics and load on the routes.

In Switzerland, there is another dangerous mountain - the Eiger ("Man-Eater"), only 3,962 meters high. The most dangerous in her is the so-called "death wall", 2000 meters long, from which blocks of melted ice break off and slide. Rock climbers storm the summit during the hungriest months of the year for safety reasons. The Eiger was first conquered in 1938. During this time, 64 athletes died on its slopes.

Broad Peak is located in Pakistan, climbers climb its two highest peaks - 8028 and 8051 m above sea level. The laurels of the discoverer of climbing the Peak belong to the legendary Herman Buhl. For the first time he conquered the summit himself, and in 1957 he undertook the ascent, leading a team of Austrian climbers. The fatal outcome when trying to climb Broad Peak is 5%.

Gasherbrum

Pakistani Mount Gasherbrum I (" beautiful mountain”), with a height of 8068 meters, has a 9% fatality rate when climbing. For the first time it was overcome in 1958 by climbers from America. They undertook a successful eight-man expedition led by the most famous and experienced climbers of the time, Pete Schoenning and Andy Kaufman. The climb to the top of Gasherbrum is recognized by experts as not difficult, but 8% of those who want to climb to the top die on its slopes.

Nepal gave the world - Makalau ("Black Giant"). Its height is 8481 meters above the sea surface. It resembles a very steep four-sided pyramid. Desperate daredevils (9%) die here when descending the mountain every year. There are regular shifts of ice blocks and a high probability of storm winds (up to 120 km per hour), in winter the air temperature reaches minus 40 degrees.

In Nepal, there is also the "Mountain of the Spirit" - Manaslu (8156 meters). It was first conquered by Japanese climbers in 1956. Mortality among climbers is 10%, the consequences of snow avalanches, landslides, monsoon winds affect. One of the most famous and terrible incidents: the camp, set up at an altitude of 6500 meters, was literally wiped off the cliff. The entire expedition, consisting of 15 people, perished.

Dhaulagiri

Nepalese cannibal mountain - Dhaulagiri I ("White Mountain"), the height reaches 8167 m. Mortality during climbing is 16%, the main reason is frequent and strong avalanches. Its southern side is considered completely impregnable for climbing. But these characteristics excite even more desperate climbers.

Everest

A little less dangerous is climbing the highest and most famous mountain point in the world - Everest or Chomolungma ("Mother of the Universe", "Divine Mother of the Snows"), rises to 8848 m. border area between Nepal and China. Everest is also a whole mountain range, which includes the top of Lhotse - 8516 m, Nuptse - 7861 m and Changze - 7543 m.

Climbing Everest is very popular with experienced climbers. The standard climbing route does not have difficult specifications, but climbers are annoyed by strong winds, changeable weather conditions, lack of oxygen.

Everest rises 3-6 centimeters above the surface every year and shifts 7 centimeters to the northeast. Every year, up to 30 people die trying to conquer Elbrus - the highest peak in Europe (5642 m). Elbrus - dormant volcano located in the Western Caucasus. The summit is covered with an ice blanket consisting of 22 glaciers.

It is also worth noting the highest and most dangerous mountain points of the continents:

  • In the Andes, South America - the peak of Aconcagua, 6959 m high. Although from the point of view of mountaineering, it is considered easy.
  • IN North America- Mount McKinley, height 6135 m. Extreme lovers prefer climbing from May to July.
  • In Africa, on the territory of Tanzania, there is the famous Kilimanjaro 5895 m. Every year, the peak "considers" attempts to climb up to 40,000 amateur climbers to it.
  • The highest peak in Antarctica is Vinson Peak, 4892 m high. It is located 1200 kilometers from the South Pole of the Earth.
  • Mount Punchak Jaya 4884 m – highest point Australia and Oceania is located in Indonesia. For the first time it was overcome in 1962 by climbers from Austria, led by Heinrich Garrer. The mountain has a high technical rating, which attracts extreme sportsmen.

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