general information

Shkoder was the capital of the Illyrian kingdom until 168 BC. e. - Romans well aware of the importance of economic and cultural Center At the intersection of trade routes in the Balkans. Since then, the Slavs, Byzantines, Serbs, Venetians and Omman Turks visited the same reasons. Every time, Shkoder was violently resisted the invaders, but several centuries of assimilation have formed a local tradition of religious tolerance, and together with a healthy humor, it characterizes the modern city.

The oldest part of the city is the confusion of alley in the frame of high walls with high gates and canopies over shop windows. Outside the old, wider streets discouraged by the walls of the city, a little resembling gas lamps of the Paris Metro. Alonga, comfortable homewards and industrialists of the XIX century were lined up. The rapidly developing capitalism of post-communist Albania caused a genuine explosion of construction.

Minarets and church bell tower of Shkoder are the best testimony of hospitality and violence. Currently, Shkoder needs to get rid of the Heritage of the Industrial Past to fully develop the tourist potential.

In Shkoderty is a stunning vintage hamam (Turkish bath).

When come

In the spring or at the beginning of autumn, in the middle of summer, almost the entire population of the Eastern Balkans rushes on the Adriatic coast.

Do not miss

• Bazaar XVIII century. With modernist buildings of the XIX century.
• Mesia Bridge - Masterpiece of the architecture of the XVIII century: 13 stone arches high above the Kiri River, the width of the central opening - 22 m, height -12 m.
• Panoramic view from the castle Rosaf - on the one hand, the city and the lake are visible, on the other - the merger of the rivers Drin and Bun, then the filler plains until the sea from the third party.
• Zogai - located nearby a fishing village with Cool houses (resemble round stone pots, turned upside down, and in each one own well), and no modern buildings on Lake Shkoder. Nothing here has changed over the past two thousand years - neither place itself nor the lifestyle of residents.
• The unique folklore of the Shkoder, stretching distinguished from the rest of Albanian folklore.
• Pelicans and other amazing birds on the lake.

Albania is obliged to be popular primarily by LJ and Togolkovsky slang :) All my knowledge about this country has been exhausted by curious pictures with some chips. The fact that we are progress in place, not very different from absurd illustrations. In psychological plan it was the most uncomfortable area of \u200b\u200bthe path.

In the meantime, we have not reached Albania, we stopped at night in Camping somewhere in the deaf Montenegro.

The first discovery was - around a lot of naked. The second is a camping for nudists :)

This fact would not be a problem for our group, if only one shower house was not on all the kamping, in common for men and women. The same thing about toilets. Go there and from there, of course, naked. I have been agreed to wash naked together with nudists, but the lady of women refused flatness :) I had to watch the doors, chopping the sealing goals.

We slept normally, but neither the light either dawn - clock in 6, so that you have time to take advantage of the shower and toilets before lifting nudists.

Unfortunately, among lovers of unity with nature, too, the larks were too :)

We left the kamping on the system of secret spies - hid half of our group in the backseat under the blanket. Due to this, we saved overnight. Honestly, he was not worth it, the conditions were terrible.

Before the upcoming journey, we decided to visit one of the many local beaches.

In a compartment with previous evening adventures, this beach with a dirty dust color made an oppressive impression.

The sea was also restless - the waves were bulled and a strong wind blew. A red rag on the pole means that bathing is prohibited.

Despite this, our driver boldly rushed to disseminate the waves with powerful torso :) MiG glory was brief - the rescuer with the help of Horn and Matyukov kicked out the whole group of water.

Through some couple of hours and a hundred kilometers on a rural road, we reached borders with Albania.

The border represented a number of birdhouses, between which the referees slowly moved. Our passports were dragged out of one booth to the other time 5, apparently simply not understanding what to do with them. We waited more than half an hour, while our data contributes to the computer by a single-phase printing method. Then we were asked for 10 euros, just in case, what the driver replied that we would pay on the way back. They agreed, and we drove further. Bazaar.

Albania immediately appeared in front of us in all its glory. After Croatia, the contrast is striking. Around poverty, destruction and poverty.

And heaps of garbage everywhere!

Typical for the whole store of the store-horse.

Honestly, I did not choose what to shoot. Such beautiful landscapes of Albanian "welfare" were throughout our path.

Abandoned engine on wheels - Surreal picture.

Almost immediately drove into the city of Shkoder. The second after the capital of Albania is the city largest - there are about 200 thousand people of the population. It is considered the large cultural and economic center of the country.

At the given moment of Albania is the southernmost point of our journey, the sun paled mercilessly.

Street traffic is organized on the Indian system - who wants, and goes. I did not notice traffic lights and street signs. Pedestrians, cyclists, three-wheeled buses and broken Kolymagi - one solid stream.

We decided to stroll along this "cultural center" a couple of hours.

The entire center of the city is one continuous incessant bazaar. Any hole in the wall is a shop. Full "boutiques" with fake brand clothes. Prices for our money - from low to very low.

The ruins of the house in the foreground - hardly the result of the war or municipal plan. Considering, in what terrible condition here are many at home, they have to fall from time to time and fall apart.

Vegetable tray, where we decided to catch a little bit. In the extensible translation to our money, a kilogram of cucumbers - in the area of \u200b\u200bthe crowns, tomatoes and potatoes - two, peaches - five, etc.

While women traded in the shops, the main fishery of men is seeds and weighing. Yes Yes! Every 50 meters, ordinary mechanical scales are lying around and a man is sitting with seeds. Such is the prosperous Albanian business.

Unfortunately, photographs cannot pass the sensations that we have experienced in place. First, everyone around us look. Full benefit, feel like a white monkey in a cage. Who would not look at, their eyes either are already addressed to you, or instantly begin to inspect. If this is a merchant, he immediately begins to call, trying to drive your poor goods to you.

There was plenty of interesting moments and personnel around - ruins, beggars, cripples, freaks, asking alms, etc. For all two hours I took a camera no more than five times - I was simply stiff. I can't take a man when he looks at you. Yes, and shake the expensive technique in the country, where poverty is the norm of life, and the dirty boys with an outstretched hand go throughout the road - just dangerous.

The psychological feeling of discomfort and inconvenience reached here his peak. I wanted to get out of these streets as soon as possible, and even better - from the country.

In second place after the sale of seeds was tobacco.

By the way, there could be no speech about non-cash payment. In no store we were able to pay the purchase of a card, moreover, we also did not see the cash registers. In a small grocery store, we just wrote a piece of paper on a piece of lemonade. When we said that there are no such money, they took what they suggested.

Dine decided in the local Ponte Center called "Planet Food". This is such a McDonalds for the rich.

All dinner cost about 15 kroons. Moreover, this institution is clearly designed for foreigners and prices are overestimated here.

The only building without the collapsed walls and cracks is the central mosque.

We got inside and stayed there half a minute. Just started the service and we were simply kicked out as "wrong" :) in the mosque - some men.

In the center of Shkoder, I was found a personal monument to me :)

Casual multi-storey - and this is us in the center of the city!

So it looks like closer.

On this, the Shkoder fell safely and left. Fuh (sigh relief). We had 157 kilometers to the border with Kosovo, and another 200 kilometers on Kosovo - and in Serbia! That was our bold plan for today. We did not take into account only that 157 kilometers in Albania - this is not exactly the same thing that in any other normal country ...

The picturesque frame of the railway worker looked like a gigantic solid.

Cross the DRIN River (DRIN).

About the garbage should be said separately. It seems that this is already in the blood, in Albanian mentality - all waste is thrown into the street. Wrap, candy and bottles scheduling the entire side of the roadway. Each cooler or a cuvette serves as a place for landfill. I swear, we saw whole garbage rivers! It is unrealistic to find clean places in Albania. Albania was extremely nicknamed by a passionarian country.

Our 157 kilometers of way began ... who in reality were more like 500 - the road was wriggled as a snake around the mountains.

This road is the main Albanian highway. A narrow rut, on which 2 cars can rarely be drunk immediately. Some where - traces of collaps. One road sign 10-20 kilometers of the way. Not a single service or rescue phone on the road. If, God forbid, something will happen in the way - you can get stuck sooo for a long time.

Nevertheless, the types have opened awesome ...

Wildlife, wild river, and just like everything around - rubbed garbage.

This is about such a macar of a kilometer on the map turned 10 in reality.

Around - not a single house, not a single settlement ... But landfills - everywhere.

We make a stop near the local "supermarket" ...

One more thing - throughout the path in Albania, I have not met a single book in stores. My plans to buy a joke for the sake of Albanian dictionary - crumbled into dust. It seems that most of the population is tritely illiterate, the printing of books is simply unprofitable.

The only salvation from the hot sun ...

The only thing that was oppressed in this splendor - all these mountains were on the way to civilization ...

Excellent name for settlement!

Albanian Statoil.

From tens of kilometers on a mountain serpentine in the end, it just became tormented. Making the stop to refresh your head.

Mountain Albanian Orel :)

Rare pointer to everything.

And again zigzags ...

Mountains here are completely different than in Croatia or even in Montenegro - healthy, reddish shade, "stuffy". We practically crossed Albania from the edge to the edge, without noticing any significant signs of life. Country of desert and dick. The person, of course, marked how much the territory could the garbage, but the lung feeling of robinsonia did not take place anyway.

By the evening we reached a small town of Kuza. We drove all day, terribly tired and exhausted, and before the border remained still 30 kilometers! It was uncomposimo. Outside the night in Albania did not enter our plans, but it seemed to be inevitable.

On our happiness, on the outskirts of the city we found a freshly planned hotel, where we were asked for 18 euros for a double room. According to our standards - prices are quite moderate. Plus, we still saved, taking only 2 rooms on the whole group :)

Before Sleep walked along the Kuqsa himself. I did not take a camera with me. Our exit was even more successful than in Shkoder - in this wilderness of foreigners practically does not happen. Folded their head and turned around everything to one. Crista definitely managed to feel like an "Albanian star" :)

Tomorrow will leave Albania, cheers!

The original is taken by W. zalgalina. In my Albania. Shkoder.

"...How to know? .. far beyond the mountains
Found B in a hut simple
Friends with hot hearts
Hello welcome and native! ... "
E Rostopina (1835)

This thing is a time - time ... I did not have time to look back, and already passed a whole year after my trip to the Balkan countries. But after all, time is not only running, it also has the ability to erase the necessary details from the memory, to guess the freshness of impressions and memories. Why did I all the time put the Albania "for later"? Why about Serbia, Bosnia and Herzogovin, the Montenegro told, and here to Albania got only now? After all, precisely because of this country I made my voyage last summer. Probably the reason was that I was afraid to spill my spiritual warmth, which I left after meeting with Albanians.

Very diverse and contradictory were the impressions of this small, but extremely interesting country. Albania reminded me by China. But if you are not lured into China now, I would love to go to Albania once again in Albania.

So, start.
We leave Montenegro and approach the border with Albania. Hood Bai, Montenegro !!!
Moving across the border - purely symbolic. We did not have time to pass the passports to Chernogorsk border guards, as the Albanians immediately returned them - in my opinion, even the press did not put.

I look at the regional deployment. So far nothing remarkable.
This, of course, is no secret that the first impression is very important. Moreover, we crossed the border with a completely unknown country to me. What did I expect to see? Of course, something special, which corresponded to my ideas about Albania, about which I, by the way, has already read so much that the story of our guide-Albanian, who hooked to us on the border, was absolutely not interested. I was all - in the window of the bus.
But so far nothing remarkable was observed. Somehow even poorly. And even no bunker came across in sight. That's just the mosque that appeared far away said that we entered the only European country with the official Muslim majority. But most recently, before 1990, Albania was a sole atheistic state worldwide.

And here is animals as a visual picture that Albania is an agricultural country.

But here is a small stop to acquire the famous brandy "Scanderebek". Which, by the way, was available all the following days and in all visited by me. And, as it turned out later, it was much better.
And here, then, in this tiny souvenir shop, a feeling has finally appeared - I am in Albania!

And here he is an Albanian costume! Withdraw your "Albanian notebook" and read the poem, written in 1835 by the Rostopchina Rostopchina "Nading Albanian Suit":
Hiding a poem under the spoiler for interested poetry. But believe me, at that moment, it very complied with my definition, although it was written in the 19th century.

"
Outfit alien, Eastern outfit,
Although you would have brought happiness,
Me from the jewelry
Under the sun, the south suffered! ..
Under the Red Fesco Albanks
When I could forget I suddenly
Ball, secular noise, captive city,
Solva and close life Circle! ..
When would you even on the day of the bird free
Free daughters of forests,
Could I breathe expanded
Ionian shores! ..
By breaking the lobby chain,
As soon as the charter of people,
Walk clock hours
Search between proud savages! ..
How to know? .. far beyond the mountains
Found B in a hut simple
Friends with hot hearts
Hello friendly and native!
Would find the happie
The lot, not known in the palaces,
And the palicara of young
With the passion of flames in the eyes! "..

I yielding to a general excitement, buying "scanderebeks", other souvenir rattling, and complete joyful premonitions, I go out, inhale the air of Albania, and - finally I see the bunker!
For those who do not know. Bunkers, which were scattered throughout Albania in the amount of up to 700 thousand hours - this is the legacy of Enver Khoji, head of the People's Socialist Republic of Albania in 1944-1985. Each family was obliged to build such a bunker to make it possible to be used as observation points and artillery fighter positions. Now most bunkers are already destroyed. But some are used pretty interesting. For example, as a kitchen for a restaurant. (But most of all I liked the photo of the bunker for romantic dates).
I will still tell about Enver Khoja, as it will not be able to bypass the side of his personality. Although, according to my observations, Albanians with great reluctance speak of him. Obviously, the memory is very strong that at the same time the country was turned into a fortress, fully isolated from the outside world, where a third of the population was sitting in prisons and camp for dissent.

We are heading to the city of Durres, where a meeting with my friends from childhood awaits me. About this meeting. And I want to boast to add that the newspaper "Arguments and Facts" No. 16 reprinted my story.

Therefore, I think now it is clear to you, with what feelings I went along the Albanian track. And although all the time I scrolled a mentally a future meeting, nevertheless fixed everything that I met on the way.
The first stop was in the city of Shkoder - one of the most ancient and famous cities of Albania. It is located just 12 km from the border with Montenegro and 20 km from the Adriatic Sea. Near - Skadar Lake.
At the entrance to the city we see on the mountain the fortress, which Rosaf is called here. Built in the 4th century BC. As if Roman legionnaires. Height above sea level - 132 meters. From the fortress so beautiful views. But we will not rise there.

We enter the city, and - very unexpectedly there is a feeling of something very native and acquaintance. Five-storey "Khrushcheki", Balconies, Winged Linen,

such familiar street "shop windows",

And even a set of fruits and vegetables - one to one ...

But, finally, something is completely different.
Consider this picture in more detail.

Before us is a big mosque. And very beautiful. As I said, in Albania, the majority of the population profess Islam.
In 1479, the Turks captured Shkoder. The war between the Ottoman Empire and the Albanian principals were made by the impertons of the centuries. (It is enough to remember the old Soviet movie (1953) "The Great Warrior Albania - Scanderebek"). Turks renamed Shkoder in Skutari, and he became an important military, craft and shopping center. Although all Albania remained a deaf province of the Ottoman Empire. And the Christian population naturally Islamized.
There are a series of interesting posts about the National Hero of Scanderebek and Albanian Muslims in LJ. Not to repeat - strongly recommend reading

Mosque - new building. As, however, almost all the cult facilities in Albania. In 1967, the "cultural revolution" began in the country, which was headed by Enver Khoja. The priests of any religion were subjected to cruel repression, many executed. Chostels, churches and mosques closed. Believers were pursued. Church utensils melted.
If we look at our "starting" photo, we will see the tower away. This is the bell tower of the Orthodox church, which is also quite rebuilt.

Consider the Orthodox bell tower closer at least in order to see another tower with a cross. This is the bell tower of a Catholic temple.
As you can see, Shkoder is a multi-confessional city. And all these cult facilities are very close to each other.

Before you cathedral St. Saintfan.
I will tell you somewhat more about him.
Despite the polls, the Catholic community in Shkoder turned out to be so stable that in the 19th century the Ottoman government allowed to build a cathedral. In 1858, the first stone was laid. They built not only on the means of citizens. Pope, Emperor Franz-Joseph and even Turkish Sultan invested their contribution to its construction. In times " Cultural revolution"When" there was no God, "there was a sports and assembly hall here. And just because it was in him all the cultural and political events took place, the building survived.

In 1991, for the first time after closing, a solemn Mass was held in the cathedral in the cathedral, which Mother Teresa Calcuta visited.
The icon of the Shkodressian Mother of the 19th century is made by a local icon painter.

If you carefully watched, they could not help but notice a small photo on the "starting" photo, a modest monument to this extraordinary woman, which the whole world knows about.
Nene Teresa. So lovingly names in Albania.

I was very surprising to see here in a small Albanian city this monument. And he stood here so inaccessible, so it would seem for no place. But it is worth considering it closer to understand that this is exactly the same, among the noisy world, this woman lived, who dedicated all his life to God, good and love to neighbor.
Agnes Gondzha boyhai - so called Mother Teresu at birth. "Gondzha" translated from Albanian means "flower bud". She was born in a Catholic family in the city of Skopje. Now it is the capital of Macedonia. (I hope that I will someday tell you about this very unusual city and about the Mother of Teresa Mother).
Now somehow not hear about the Order of the Sisters of Mercy, which was founded by Mother Teresa Calcutkaya. According to the data for 1997 there are 400 branches of the Order of Sisters of Mercy in 111 countries of the world, 700 houses of mercy in 126 countries. Do they exist now?
"The greatest poverty is the poverty of the heart." (From the Mother Teresa diary).

We will continue our little excursion to Shkoder. Once again we will look at the area where the monument is. She, by the way, is called the name of Mother Teresa.
Well - quite european city. Fountain, very much harmonizing with minarets and bell tower.

From the square begins a pedestrian street with many cafes and boutiques. Youth - a lot, dressed modernly. Tourists are very small. But, frankly, tourist attractions in Shkoderty is not enough. Although if desired, they can be found in any city.
Somewhere here I hung Albanian ice cream. It was very cheap, but not very tasty. And how to ask anything better, I did not know.

And how much I did not try to understand at least one spoken word in Albanian language - I could not succeed. Very unusual sound for our ear. The first abundant phrase, which I remembered is "goodbye" - Mirupafshim. Because it sounded like this: "Mirupy".

Here, in the center, a very strange, dilapidated house. As it turned out, this is the former palace of the King of Nikol of the First, who raised a Montenegrin flag over Shkoder. Montenegrins, being neighbors, always claimed this city. In 1913, Shkoder was freed from the Turks by Serbs and Montenegrins - because it was raised by this flag. But for some reason the international community decided to attach him to Albania. Serbs and Montenegrins were resettled. Now in Shkoder live mostly Albanians Catholics.

If you go a little further, we will see an interesting monument that is also related to the Balkan War. Only here we are talking about the Albanian flag.
Always interested - who are supplied by such obeliski. Nearby information did not clarify anything, as she was on Albanian and in Turkish. I learned only the name Hasan Riza Pasha (1871-1913). The Turkish crescent is even more in a wake of my curiosity, because I read that Albania suffered the Ottoman Igo for almost 500 years.
But there is everything on the Internet! It turned out that the monument is related to one of the most sensational events of Albania - a long siege of the Shkoder. "Shkoder is our fate or our grave" - \u200b\u200bso said the Turkish Adutant Hasan Riza Pasha, having learned that the Multiple Army of Montenegrins surrounded the city. So it happened. Turkish troops, who led Hasan Riza Pasha was able to fully protect Shkoder for 183 days. But making sure that no help from whom, since Turkey could no longer protect his possessions in the Balkans, Hassan Riza Pasha, learning that the independence of Albania was recognized, raised the Albanian flag in Shkoderty. Shortly after this event he was treacherously killed. The name of the killer is still unknown. But, as we see, the residents of Shkoder still retain the memory of the commander of the city, subject to the Ottoman Empire.

In early 1990, mass unrest caused by the heavy material situation of the population began across all Albania. Enver Hoja died in April 1985, and although the economic and political situation in the country improved a little: the government was updated, political prisoners were released from prisons and camps, many laws were canceled, there was still a secret police, and the Economic chaos continued in Albania.
It was not possible to find out what exactly happened on December 13, 1990 in Shkodér, but the inscription on the stele says about the fall of the communist regime.
I would be grateful if the inhabitants of Albania explain this question.

And one more monument, which is sometimes taken for the monument to Stalin. It is known that Enver Khoja was a great admirer of Stalin's ideas. After the death of his idol, he was overruded with all the light. China's only ally remained China, for which Stalin was also idol. In 1952, the Museum of Lenin and Stalin was opened in Tirana, and in 1961 Enver Khoja demanded to convey to Albania the coffin with the body of Stalin to establish it in a specially built mausoleum in Tirana.
In all Albania, monuments were established by the former leader, and the name of Stalin was sacred. There was a monument to Stalin and in Shkoder - that's where. But since 1993, the famous Albanian poet and Publicist Luigi Garakuchi (1879-1925) is surrounded by state flags. He is still known to participating in the development of the first single Albanian alphabet. I would like to read his poetic cycles. But, unfortunately, there are very few translations of Albanian poetry into Russian.

Complete our walk in a relaxed beautiful and well-kept square overlooking another mosque.

Is it possible to believe that quite recently these kids could not be called Christian or Muslim names. It was impossible to have a car, piano (!), VCR, an import radio and a radiol. It was impossible to marry a foreigner. It was impossible to wear long hair, jeans, narrow pants, short skirts, use cosmetics. It was forbidden to listen to jazz, music, watch foreign films. About the attitude to religion I have already told you.
I really want to believe that these shkoders kids are waiting for an excellent future. And they will never return those times to the country that we still know so little.

And now I suggest you listen to the "Albanian Tango", which was so popular in the USSR. The plate with this song was brought to our house Albanian sailors. I am sad and pleasant to listen to her. And it was so long ago ...

And my story about what I saw Albania is just beginning. The next point of our destination is the city of Durres.
And if you were interested, then do not switch!

P.S. I can not add a wonderful photo to me dear

Shkoder oldest city both Albania and Europe.According to historical data, the date of the founding of the city is intended to be considered 500 g BC. His "peers" are Greek Athens and Rome. The city was formed on the merger of two rivers. Drina and Bruna, and for many years guarded trading pathways passing here. In the 3rd century BC e. Shkoder became the capital of a small Illyrian state. For many years of his existence, Shkoder has changed both the appeal and names. His names were: Skodar, Skutari (Turkish), Skodrium, Skadar (Slavic), Shkoder. The city is 25 km from the Adriatic coast and is 4 in the country in terms of population (about 200 thousand people).

Photo Shkoder. Albania:

Shkoder is famous among tourists with places of sights. The main one is the fortress of Rosaf, the same, with which the city began and which was designed to protect trading paths. The age of the fortress of the 24th century. The second large attraction should be considered the most big Lake Balkans - Skadar Lake (it is also called Shkoder or Prespa. Do not forget to visit the dearest Lake Balkans - Ohrid What is located in the southeastern part of Albania). Skadar Lake is not fully owned by Albania, but in fractions with Montenegro, which is from here 10 kilometers. Due to the abundance of fresh water: the lake, rivers, dams, in the Skoder, a great many fish restaurants.

Shkoder, Albania, Map:

In addition to the lake and fortress, the city is interesting for several more reasons. Shkoder is considered the informal capital of one of the nations of Albania - Gegov. GEGI, in its turns, constitute the bulk of Albania Catholics. It is about this that in Shkoder is one of the main Catholic churches of Albania - the Church of Ruga-Ndre-Mjeda. All this does not make the city completely Catholic. The main construction of the Shkoder is the Muslim mosque Sheikh, Zamil Abdullah Al-Zamil. Another Mosque of Shkoder - lead - is located next to Rosather's fortress. By the way, the lead mosque is the only cult factor of the country that was not destroyed in the 60s, during the times of the comprehensive Albanian atheism. Recall that the country was the only country that declared himself atheistic. It continued this about 40 years.

What is worth visiting (attractions) in Shkodene:

• Mission "Public Museum", possessing a large collection of historical photos
• Museum "Rosaf" (opening hours: 10.00- 13.00)
• Franciscan Church of Ruga-Ndre-Mjeda,
• Rosaf Fortress Lead Mosque
• Illyrian ruins Gaitan
• Sheikha's mosque Zamil Abdullah al-Zamil
• Historical Museum + Archaeological Museum (Opening hours: 09.00 - 13.00)
• Ruins of the Middle Ages of the city of Sarda, next to Wow Daise
• On the road from Tirana to Shkoder, in the city of Lyzh there is a monument to the National Hero of Skanderbega (opening: 8.00-13.00)

Video Shkoder: