You can get to the island in 2 ways - by plane and by ferry. I will tell you all the nuances of how to get there with or without a car. Where to buy tickets.
The cost of a flight by plane is about € 100 one way. Tickets are cheaper than on the airline's website.
Ferry prices from Madeira to Porto Santo
Ticket prices change depending on the season. I am attaching price lists for 2017.
These are combo tickets if you are traveling with a car. This option of moving with a car is more profitable than renting a car on the island.
Ferry timetable to Porto Santo
The schedule is constantly changing, so take a look at this website.
Where to buy ferry tickets to Porto Santo?
It is more logical to buy a ticket on the portosantoline.pt website while still at home and print it out. But if you rent a car, you won't be able to buy a ticket with a car, since the site requires a car number or model. Therefore, we bought tickets at the box office already knowing the car number.
Funchal has 3 ticket sales offices:
For example, a sales office in the port of Funchal.
We bought in this office in the city center at Av. do Mar e das Comunidades Madeirenses nº 20.
An hour before the departure of the ferry, tickets are sold directly at the pier:
In October we paid € 164 round trip for 2 people and 1 car. It will be cheaper than renting a car on the island. We bought at the office the day before departure.
We took the car at Madeira airport in r with full insurance for € 400 for 20 days + € 36 for 4 days of insurance on the island of Porto Santo. Look at the prices at.
How does the departure take place, where to go by car?
You need to arrive with the car an hour before the ferry departure. The ferry will be waiting for you with an open mouth. Large trucks arrive first. Then they will invite you. There are many workers in the port. They lead the movement well.
We disembark passengers. Turn off the headlights. We drive into the open gate. We look at the indication of workers. I was sent to the second level. We turn around and put the car in a row. Do not forget to put on the handbrake and speed.
Passengers enter separately through the ladder or from the side through the gate where the cars enter.
The interior of the ferry is modest. The ferry is also not the newest.
To while away the 2.5 hour ocean walk, you can dine.
I am attaching the price list for food in the cafe. There is also a restaurant on board, which is more expensive.
There was no lunch on the morning flight, only sandwiches.
We sailed back on the evening flight, served dinner. The set came out for only € 6.
If you arrived without a car, just follow the passengers when you exit. They all go to the bus. The bus will take you to the center. Bus schedule:
How do I save on hotels?
It's very simple - look not only at the booking. I prefer the search engine RoomGuru. He is looking for discounts on Booking and 70 other booking sites at the same time.
Madeira is an island paradise for relaxation. You can get to Madeira in different ways, and each of them will be discussed in today's article. All ticket prices are indicated in accordance with the current dollar exchange rate - 1 dollar is equal to 64 rubles.
There are many ways to get to Madeira cheap, which suit every wallet:
The best option is via Air Berlin. Direct flights from Moscow to Madeira will cost around 25 thousand rubles. In addition, you can get a special ticket and save around 10,000.
If there are no promotional offers, then you can fly on codeshare flights of the above-described company and British Airways with one stopover in London, while saving several thousand.
The island's capital, Funchal, can be reached via TAP Portugal. Such a trip will cost an average of 30 thousand rubles. Of course, such a cost is expensive for many wallets, but at the height of the season the company holds promotions, during which you can buy the coveted ticket for 20 thousand, but you will have to make one change in Lisbon and fly from Lisbon to the island.
Last fallback road to paradise island Is an EasyJet flight through the aforementioned London. This method is in last place because of its inconvenience. To begin with, a tourist will need to fly from Moscow to London, and then he will need to make an additional change and fly to the island. Such a trip will cost 23,000.
It is important to know and be sure to take into account that there are no regular, direct flights to Madeira from any city in Russia. If you need to fly in a straight line and with one change, then the best option is a flight from Moscow or St. Petersburg. Otherwise, the tourist will have to make many transfers. How long to fly to Madeira? The road to the treasured rest for the traveler will take less than 12 hours.
Flight from St. Petersburg
It is advantageous to get directly from St. Petersburg to the island using Lufthansa + TAP Portugal, the route of which passes through several European towns(e.g. from Portugal). For such a flight, a ticket will cost around 420 euros, namely 28,000. But, considering two transfers, this is not the best option for its cost. It is much more practical to travel by low-cost from the Baltics or Helsinki, and it is not difficult to get to one of these cities by regular bus and thus save at least 100 euros.
Drive through Lisbon
What is the cheapest way to get to Madeira? If you need the cheapest flight to Madeira, it is best to do it via Lisbon or via Spain. But, first you need to get to it. It is quite easy to do this, since Moscow-Lisbon is the cheapest route on most airlines. The trip will cost 13 thousand rubles. In addition, you can save several thousand on various promotions and discounts.
It is important to know: of course, this way of travel is somewhat difficult in time. But, in this way, you can save a couple of hundred euros and spend them on recreation and related entertainment. Also, such a route has another advantage - it is a visit to Lisbon and inspection of the nearby beauties.
So, the flight to the point of departure took place, now, it remains to fly to the island. Again, the cheapest way is to use low-cost airlines that cost 70 euros (the difference between a ticket for 400 and 70 euros can be felt quite well). But, there is also a way to save money: if you book in advance for several people (for example, if a family or a group of friends is traveling), the airline will make an additional discount, then a ticket can be purchased for only 30 euros.
It is important to know: it is worth considering that the ticket price is indicated without luggage. If a tourist leaves with oversized luggage, then, as a rule, you will need to pay an additional 10-15 euros for it, and luggage exceeding 20 kilograms will cost twice as much. But, even in spite of such an unwanted waste, such a ticket is still no more expensive than a direct flight from Moscow or St. Petersburg.
So, if you want to travel as cheaply as possible, then you shouldn't pick up a lot of luggage. For a week of rest, a small-sized suitcase will be enough, since the climate there is warm, then during the rest, tourists bask more on white beaches and around the pool.
The cheapest way - is the savings justified?
The cheapest way to the paradise island for a budget tourist is through the Baltic States. There are four air hubs to choose from - the airport of Riga, Vilnius, Kaunas or Tallinn, while the traveler will have to make several transfers in Europe. In fact, there are many variations of such a trip, it all depends on the money that will be spent on the trip to Madeira.
Here is the best option for a trip on low-cost airlines through the Baltic States: Riga-Eidnhoven and Lisbon. The cost of such a trip will be 6,000 rubles or 90 euros.
Thus, the traveler can save hundreds of euros while looking at several European countries. Of course, such excessive savings is justified, because on the island there really is where to spend the saved cash... For example, if you do not take into account various souvenirs and excursions, then it is reasonable to spend the saved money on a trip to nature reserve, a trip to nearby fishing villages, where it is possible to taste various seafood delicacies and more for an inexpensive price.
In general, the journey will take less than a day, and the waiting time between flights during transfers will take up to 2 hours. In addition, if the traveler is interested in any city, then he has the opportunity to stay for a day or two in Riga or Lisbon.
There are several more ways to travel like this:
- Riga-London or Paris-Lisbon via airline Wizz Air + Ryanair + EasyJet.
- Vilnius-Milan or London-Lisbon via Ryanair + EasyJet.
- There is also a connecting flight: Canaus-London or Porto-Lisbon via Ryanair + EasyJet.
- If you want to save a little more, then from the Baltic States there is a ferry to Madeira.
The above methods are the cheapest flights to get to Madeira. The traveler can find many more variations on his way through low-cost airlines. It all depends on the funds that he is willing to spend on the road. On average, the road costs 10-16 thousand rubles (again, depending on the flight and additional services).
It is important to know: for greater savings, you can refuse additional services that are provided on board the aircraft (for example, food). A trick like this will save you some more money.
But to get to the starting points is a matter of five minutes and the cheapest way to do this is using regular buses. The road will take a little time from Moscow or St. Petersburg. The cost of one trip through LuxExpress does not exceed 3000, and if you report another thousand, you can get to the starting point on Transaero flights.
Do not forget about the main feature of budget companies - all kinds of discounts and promotional offers that begin at the beginning of the tourist period and at the end.
As a result, on the road to the paradise island, you can spend 14 thousand rubles, and if, taking into account the rather frequent discounts of various companies, then for all 10 000, which can not please the budget traveler. If a tourist travels with a low-cost airline, then it is worth adding 10-15 euros for luggage to this cost, since it is paid separately.
Low-cost carrier from Helsinki
For residents of St. Petersburg, there is also a budget option for the road to Madeira - this is a low-cost airline through Helsinki. You will find yourself at your destination, you can take direct flights, and there, changing to a low-cost airline, fly first to Copenhagen, and then to Madeira. The cost of such a trip is 19 thousand rubles.
- In order to buy a ticket for cheap, you need to follow the current promotions.
- It is best to travel in a large company, as with advance booking, you can get a 30% discount on the ticket.
- When flying on low-cost airlines, you need to take small-sized baggage in order not to overpay for it.
So, here are all the ways to get to Madeira.
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Since 2018, the ferry to Madeira has started operating again, which has become an excellent alternative to air traffic.
Friends, you can now get to Madeira from mainland Portugal by ferry. From this year, he again began to run to the island of eternal spring, which has become an excellent alternative to air travel. Ferry to Madeira departs from seaport the city of Portimão, located in the Algarve region in the south of Portugal. From Porto and Lisbon to Portimão can be reached either by bus or by train. Schedules, departure locations and prices are available at www.cp.pt and www.rede-expressos.pt. We will be happy to help you choose a route.
Madeira is located 908 km south of the city of Portimão, and the ferry ride to where there are many evergreen forests and emerald valleys, blooming orchids, hydrangeas and agapanthus, as well as paradise fruits will take only 24 hours. Moreover, the conditions for lovers of short sea cruises the best are created. The length of the comfortable ferry is 154 meters, and the capacity is up to 1000 passengers. The vessel is equipped with 206 inner and outer cabins (with 2 and 4 beds) and 650 seats, a cargo compartment designed for 300 cars. There are also cafes, restaurants, a swimming pool and a reception on board.
The ferry to Madeira from Portimão runs weekly on Tuesdays at 12:30 and arrives at the port of Funchal the next day, Wednesday, at 12:30. From Funchal to Portimão - on Mondays at 10:30 and arrives the next day, on Tuesday, at 10:30.
The cost of carriage of a passenger car in one direction - 315 Euro.
One way ticket price per person (direction Portimão - Funchal / Funchal - Portimão):
|
Portimão - Funchal |
seat | inner cabin (2 beds) |
outer cabin (2 beds) |
inner cabin (4 beds) |
outer cabin (4 beds) |
| Adult | € 85 | € 149,65 | € 187,05 | € 99,80 | € 124,80 |
| Children from 4 to 11 years old | € 42,50 |
€ 74,82 | € 93,52 | € 49,90 | € 62,40 |
| Children under 3 years old | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
Just imagine: the land, lost in the ocean, the eye has nowhere to hide from the emerald landscapes. Alpine eucalyptus forests shrouded in fog. Valleys with red-roofed houses scattered over them give way to Martian razor-sharp rocks. The aromas of passion fruit and fresh bread are mixed in the air. Madeira is pleasantly dizzy, but the wind from the Atlantic and the deafening horns of the liners entering the port quickly bring you to your senses.
On the island of eternal spring, as Portuguese Madeira is also called, I spent a week. And it seems that it was a week of absolute, concentrated happiness.
View from the Hotel Monte Carlo in the center of Funchal, where I lived.
Trip budget
The average cost of a trip for a week is about 1000€ for two. This amount includes round-trip flights from Lisbon, hotel accommodation and individual excursions.
I had the maximum program - to see the whole of Madeira, so I tookguide with car , and with him traveled the island far and wide. We traveled by minibus, which usually accommodates up to seven people, respectively, the price varies: the more people, the cheaper. An excursion to the eastern or western part of the island starts from 40€ per person, provided that the car is full. Since I traveled in the low season without fellow travelers, the price was higher (in fact, I had an individual excursion). But the professional guide Maxim, who has been living here for almost 10 years, shared interesting stories about local customs, new businesses in Madeira and discoveries that no guidebook will tell you about.
Climate
Madeira all year round Spring. The island is located 500 km west of Africa and 1000 km from continental Europe. The warm Gulf Stream in these waters regulates temperatures that rarely drop below 17 degrees in winter and barely exceed 25 degrees in summer. All this makes the Portuguese island the ideal destination for any time of the year.
View of Kurral-dash-Freyrash. Delicious chestnut pastries and chestnut liqueur are prepared here. The shops sell biscuits, chestnut bread and chestnut honey.
Aloe, those boring plants on windowsills in offices, bloom here with might and main.
All Madeira is a man-made botanical garden, which began to be harvested, bringing overseas flora after the discovery of the island by the Portuguese in the 15th century. The plants have taken root, blossomed in a riotous color and reborn into unthinkable hybrids. Where else in another place can you see giant fiery aloe flowers, taste the edible monstera fruit (the taste and appearance is a mix of pineapple and banana) and lose your head from the variety of passion fruit species, from which no soup is just made here?
How to get there
The capital of Madeira - the city of Funchal - can be reached via Lisbon or any other European capital... The flight from Lisbon takes about two hours. On the plane, take the starboard side, so you will see the whole island when you land. By the way, Madeira Airport is one of the ten most dangerous air harbors in the world. This is because it falls into a complex wind rose and is on the edge of a cliff that goes straight into the Atlantic. But there is no need to be afraid: all pilots flying to the island have undergone special training and land planes with pinpoint accuracy.
It is a special pleasure to leave the airport along the main highway of the island, because above it, on stilts, a part of the runway is built: you go by car, and an airplane lands above you.
Nature and surroundings
You need to go to Madeira to get nature. These places reboot the head, heal the soul and act as a good alternative to retreat.
On the way to the trout farm, where the altitude is 1000 m above sea level, the clouds collide with the slopes of the island, and a thick fog forms.
The climate changes from humid tropical in the south to temperate in the north, so be prepared that as you move inland, the sun will either peep out, or drizzle, or an enveloping fog will descend from the mountains.
Camara di Lobos
We started in the western part of Madeira, with a picturesque fishing villageCamara de Lobos where Churchill spent several days in 1950 painting his watercolors. Which made this place immortal.
The village of Camara de Lobos. Fishermen dry the black shark on the coast.
Here, on the ocean shore, among dilapidated boats, the carcasses of a black shark are dried - it replaces the Bakalau cod, popular in the mainland of the country, for the Maderians. Locals slowly drink beer, dry wine and ponche, a mix of rum and fresh fruit juice. Dogs scurry among the tables of street cafes.
In Camara de Lobos, don't pass by the oldest restaurant Casa do Farol , where over the past thirty years they have been preparing a fantastically delicious Nikita cocktail based on beer, ice cream, white wine and pineapple juice. It was invented by the grandfather of the current owner. Now "Nikita" is served in many restaurants in Madeira, but here it is authentic, mixed in proportions that the owners keep secret.
Such views in the Camara de Lobos inspired Churchill's creativity.
It is enough to stop here for a couple of hours. This time is more than enough for a walk around the village, because everything is concentrated around the ocean shore. Basically, daredevils swim, those who are not embarrassed by the uncomfortable rocky shore. In general, Madeira has many other places more suitable for swimming.
Ribeira Brava
Moving west along the southern edge of the island, we pass the village Ribeira Brava with black sand on the beach.
Everywhere in the village of Ribeira Brava there are green hills and terraced gardens that descend like an amphitheater towards the sea.
A couple of hours will be enough for this tiny village. In addition to fantastic views, there is the parish church of St. Benedict, or São Bento. I strongly advise you to look inside - the ascetic facade of the 16th century hides lush decoration and unique decorative elements with images of wild animals.
Church of St. Benedict in the village of Ribeira Brava.
Porto Moniz
Porto Moniz located in the west of the island - and this is one of the most scenic spots in Madeira, the famousnatural pools from volcanic lava. The solidified rock forms rocks of bizarre outlines, reminiscent of grottoes and pools. Take your swimwear and swimming trunks, there are not many places on Earth where you can swim among the volcanic reefs (for 1.5€ you get access not only to the pools, but also to the changing rooms and showers).
Natural pools of volcanic lava in Port Moniz. A kind of Maderian-style beach club. Pools, changing rooms and showers are available for one and a half euros.
Here, in Port Moniz, there was once a port where whalers hunted for killer whales, sperm whales and whales. The mountains overhanging the city served as an excellent observation deck... If you look closely, you can still see an observation booth in the rocks, from where the whalers watched the approach of whales - there were darkness in these waters. Up to 80 individuals were killed annually. Whale meat was eaten, fat went in the oven, and the most expensive product - ambergris, a substance formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales - was sold to perfumers for fabulous money.
Bird's eye view of Port Moniz.
In 1981, whaling was finally banned and whalers had to learn new professions. Many went to work as waiters. So there is no shortage of sea-themed restaurants. I dined in one of them - with the thematic title Cachalote ... The building of the restaurant was built right on the rocks on the ocean shore, and in such a way that these very rocks replace part of the walls in the dining area. The portions, as elsewhere in Madeira, are large, the seafood is fresh, and the further from Funchal, the cheaper. At Cachalote for 15€ you can dine with wine. Be sure to try Maderian's signature dish - espadá fish with passionfruit sauce.
Santana
To the east of Porto Moniz is Madeira's landmark village Santana , which is often depicted on postcards and advertising posters. Houses with bright doors and a thatched roof, where the first settlers lived, have survived here.
Famous cabins with colorful doors and thatched roofs.
Here now theme park, in the houses they sell local souvenirs: woolen blankets, socks, lace napkins. But if you wander around Santana, you can still find residential buildings with triangular thatched roofs. Locals claim that straw is much better than tiles: it allows air to pass through, retains water, and inside it is always fresh and dry.
The only large-scale entertainment in Santana is the theme park, which sells local souvenirs: woolen blankets, socks, lace napkins. So there is nothing to do in the village for more than an hour and a half.
Ribeiro Frio
Moving east, we rose higher and higher above sea level and inRibeiro Frio are already in the clouds.Here is the famous Madeira trout farm. You can wander along the pools with fish, breathe in the fresh mountain air and go further towards the town of Faial. He himself is unremarkable, but nearby, on the top of the mountain, there is a restaurant Casa de Cha do Faial.
Ribeiro Frio in thick clouds.
They say that it was built for English tourists, taking into account their tastes. The interiors are really Victorian. The choice of food is the same as in most places in Madeira: constant fish soups, espadá fish in different variations, all in huge portions. The highlight, of course, is the views around. From Casa de Cha the panorama stretches mountain peaks and gorges with evergreen emerald vegetation, fogs, clouds, red roofs. After the chaos of megalopolises, such pictures return you somewhere to the very beginning, as if there were no multi-lane highways, traffic jams and a feeling of eternal rush in your life.
Views in a million
Eira do Serrado
One of these places is an observation deckEira do Serrado at an altitude of 1000 m above sea level (ascent is free). Climbing several dozen slippery steps on the way to the highest point, you will be rewarded with a fantastic panorama of the green peaks of Areiro and Ruivu, between which the valley of the Nuns of Curral dash Freiras is sandwiched.
In the 16th century, pirates attacked Madeira, and local nuns, fleeing from thugs, took refuge in the valley, where they later founded a settlement. For five centuries, Kurral-dash-Freyrash has been overgrown with convenient roads and tunnels. Now 1700 people live here. And the village can be reached by car from Funchal in half an hour.
Cabo girao
Not far from Camara de Lobos is the second highest cape in the world and the tallest natural rock in Europe -Cabo Girao ... At 580 meters above sea level, under your feet ... a glass floor. Yes, the brain refuses to believe in the reliability of such a support, but there is nowhere to retreat. Down there, the cliff goes a few hundred meters into the depths of the ocean. They say that sperm whales can be found in the waters around the cape, it is so deep here.
Now the ascent to the cape is free, but the local authorities are already installing turnstiles - soon it will be possible to climb to the observation deck only with a ticket.
San Lorenzo
The green expanses of Madeira at the eastern end of the island give way to the Martian landscape of the peninsulaSan Lorenzo (Ponta de São Lourenço) ... Here there is wind, space, freedom, wind farms and basalt mountains.
The mountains at the eastern end of Sao Lorenzo, as well as throughout Madeira, are made of basalt, and this made the island a curse for convicts: any path was carved out of the hardest rock in the world.
For millions of years, the raging ocean elements have carved the rocks so intricately that you can train your imagination, guessing in the outlines of wanderers in cloaks, or giant animals.
Beach vacation
Although beach vacation in Madeira it is not popular (for this there is the neighboring island of Porto Santo), there are still several worthy beaches.
- Praia formosa - two beaches: with black volcanic sand and shallow entry into the sea and large pebble with entry through the cave. You can get there from the center of Funchal on the bright yellow Horários do Funchal bus in 15 minutes.
- Praia da calheta - one of the best sandy beaches in Madeira, located in the southwest of the island. Nearby there is a yacht port, bars and sports equipment rental.
- Ponta gorda - a beach complex in the south of the island with seawater pools for adults and children. For five euros, you can buy a sun lounger and soak up the soft Maderian sun.
- Praia de machico - sand beach in the city of Machico, in a bay surrounded by breakwaters on both sides. The water here is very clean and it is a pleasure to swim. The beach is free: there are changing cabins, showers, toilets, awnings with roofs from palm leaves... Sun loungers and umbrellas can be rented.
Parks and gardens
When it seemed like to surprise me natural beauties Madeira is already difficult, I went to see man-made parks and gardens.
Monte Tropical Park
Monte is both a suburb of Funchal and a park. Get thereto the park (Monte Palace Tropical Garden) you can go from the old part of Funchal, from where in a few minutes by cable car you will climb the mountain, contemplating fantastic views along the way. Entrance ticket - 12,5 € , the park is open from 9:00 to 18:00. In the late eighties, the territory was bought by Jose Berardo, a Portuguese businessman and collector born in Madeira.
In the 19th century, a fashionable hotel was located in the building of the Monte Palace. Now here is the headquarters of the Jose Berardo Foundation, closed to visitors.
In the center of the garden is an 18th century palace , which is now the headquarters of the Berardo Foundation. There are countless plants around the world: Scottish heather, Canary laurels, Belgian azaleas, ferns and cedars. It is worth saying that all this splendor is carefully collected in landscape compositions. There are lakes with waterfalls, and an oriental garden with pagodas, carps and Buddha statues, and a promenade dedicated to the history of Portugal in ancient tiles.
Part of Monte Park is dedicated to exotic birds. A huge open-air cage with hundreds of parrots is separated from the rest of the park by a fine netting, so nothing hinders the birds.
On Monte, lay at least four hours to slowly walk around seven hectares of the park and look into the museum, where minerals and precious stones from the North and South America... And at the end of the walk, take a ride on a basket sleigh - a toboggan. This is a traditional Maderian game, a kind of bobsled prototype. Two carreiros are driving the sleigh on mountain road, and you rush at a speed of up to 12 km / h on a road perfectly polished over the years. The route is about 2 km, and they will take you down in 10 minutes. It costs about 30 minutes.€ for two.
Santa Catarina Park
Santa Catarina Park located in the western part of Funchal, 5-10 minutes walk from the center. There are fewer tropics, more open spaces and, in general, the feeling is like from a city park: couples hug on the lawn stretching inland, and a little further, along the pond with swans and ducks, families with children walk. From here, you get excellent pictures with a view of the departing from the port. ocean liners, and if you turn your back to the ocean, then in the frame there will be cascades of Maderian houses, the upper tiers of which go straight into the clouds.The entrance to the territory is free, the park is open daily from 7:00 to 19:00.
Funchal and the streets of the old town
Funchal is the capital and The largest city Madeira, recognized as one of the safest in Portugal: the crime rate here tends to zero. The whole city can be walked around in a couple of hours, and therefore the list of must-see places can really be mastered in a day of leisurely stroll with lunch breaks in numerous fish restaurants.
All of Funchal is very cinematic.
Funchal City Park (Jardim Municipal do Funchal) - a quiet and cozy place in the very center of the city, from where any walk around the capital of Madeira begins. Here five years ago, with the participation of the Tretyakov Gallery, a bust of Karl Bryullov was installed. The artist spent several winter months in Madeira from 1849 to 1850, improving his health
In December, a traditional city Christmas market takes place in front of the park, and it itself looks like a tropical Santa's residence, with reindeer around red neon trees.
You can always catch a taxi from here. You will recognize them by their yellow-blue coloring. A trip around Funchal will cost 5-10€ .
Avenida do Mar - the main avenue of the city, located on the first line by the ocean. Restaurants and small shops follow one after another. A special delightdelivered long walks along the port of Funchal. Moors here every day a cruise ship and small boats and yachts are not transferred at all in the waters of the marina.
Rarely does a liner stay in Funchal for more than a day. Madeira is one of the main attraction points for European cruise ships.
V New Year Funchal's harbor hosts a stunning fireworks display.
Fireworks in Madeira several years ago entered the Guinness Book of Records as the largest pyrotechnic show.
The whole center of Funchal looks glossy, so for contrasts you need to go to Old city... An atmosphere of slight desolation reigns here, diluted with a fair share of street art and contemporary art.
Instagram-friendly home.
Since 2010, artists have painted over 200 doorson the street Santa Maria (Rua de Santa Maria) : angels, fadishts, rainforests - everything that Maderians live and dream about.
Accommodation
When choosing a hotel in Funchal, take a look at the options with an ocean view. Here there are most of them, since the houses are located in an amphitheater.
I spent a week at the hotel ... It was built in 1910, and during its centenary history it has managed to visit a private mansion, a health resort for British families and a school. In the 60s, the building was bought out and converted into a hotel.
Here are modest but excellent continental breakfasts, a cozy terrace, and, of course, views. As an inveterate impressionist, I could not tear myself away from experiments with light, photographing the view of Atlantic Ocean from the room. At different times of the day and in different weather conditions, the landscape was colored from pale blue to purple and scarlet.
Local kitchen
Madeira's coastal waters are home to a wide variety of fish, from tuna to blue marlin. But the invariable star of any table on the island is the espada (swordfish). It looks like a terrible big-eyed creature, it tastes like incredibly tender meat that melts in your mouth. Feel free to take your espad anywhere(Espada) with passionfruit sauce with fried bananas. Everywhere in Madeira, it is prepared excellently.
The main specialty of meat is the espetada, which is consonant with the swordfish - kebab on a vertical skewer, seasoned with bay leaves and garlic.
Both meat and fish dishes go well with Maderian flavored bread m (Bolo do caco) ... Two cakes, oiled with garlic oil, are not only served in all restaurants and cafes, but also sold in street food trucks.
The biggest gastronomic surprise is the passionfruit tomato or tamarillo. The ripe fruit tastes slightly salty, almost like a tomato. Next to it are the fruits of the anona or "chirimoya", as they are called in the south of Spain. The pulp is like melted ice cream with strawberry-pineapple flavor.
I have already mentioned the incredible fruit hybrids that grow in Madeira. Behind them - straight to the marketMercado dos Lavradores ... You definitely need to try the fruit of the monstera - bananas. It can only be eaten when ripe, when the green scales are easily removed from the pulp.Otherwise, there will be a feeling of a thousand small needles in your mouth, as if you had dined on a cactus. Anona is another abyss of tastes. The soft white flesh resembles creamy ice cream with a strawberry and pineapple flavor. But it deteriorates quickly, so it is not brought to our latitudes.
Due to their gigantic size, local avocados are more like zucchini.
In small grocery stores, which are plentiful in the streets of Funchal, you can find fragrant pineapples from the Azores. Farmers in Azore and Madeira, however, supply practically nothing to the mainland. All fruits are exclusively for domestic consumption.
Try fruit in the market, but buy it in street stalls - prices are much lower there.
About passion fruit, the main thing actor Maderian gastronomy is worth mentioning separately. She was reborn herein passion fruit banana, passion fruit tomato (tamarillo) and passion fruit orange. The most delicious, of course, is the classic passion fruit. A ripe fruit can be distinguished by its wrinkled skin. This means that the juice inside has already been sufficiently infused and has become sweet. Here they make cocktails, ice cream, puddings, cookies, fish sauces and delicious lemonade from it. Brisa ... The latter is produced in small quantities at a local brewery and is not exported anywhere.
Madeira
Those who have never been to the island of eternal spring associate Madeira with the fortified wine of the same name - Madeira. Just as real champagne can be produced only in the French region of Champagne, according to the rules of the European Union, only wines produced in the Madeira archipelago (islands of Madeira and Porto Santo) can be called Madeira.
Madeira different years extracts from the manufacturer Blandy.
There are several major wine producers on the island:Blandy, Borges and D'Oliveira. You can taste wines in different restaurants, but it's better to start with the Wine Museum.São Francisco Cellars Wine Museum , where they will tell you about different types of Madeira, differing from each other in exposure. The simplest view is granel.
A good Madeira starts with a three-year aging, the bottles write Finest, although a three-year one is just not bad, but no more. And the real one, with the taste of roasted nuts, sugar and caramel, as in the days of sailors and oak barrels, begins with 10-15 years of aging. Such a bottle will cost from 30€ up to € 100.
Madeira is kept in barrels from three years to plus infinity.
For the best fortified wines of the island, go to Blandy's, H&H and Borges - the unofficial leaders of Madeira production, where you can choose the wine of your year of birth
Would I return to Madeira again? Yes, and I would have spent a month or two here after hard work in Moscow. An island lost in the Atlantic can only be enjoyed alternating with the chaos and drive of big cities, because whatever you say, Madeira is a place for measured contemplative relaxation. So that with clouds, fogs and green mountain peaks. 1 2 3 4 5 6 6+
Sometimes we choose countries, but more often countries choose us. Last winter, fate gave us an unforgettable meeting with Spain. Our guide in Spain was Mikhail, a lecturer at St. Petersburg University. Mikhail is a very educated person, an excellent psychologist and a wonderful storyteller. From the first story he made us fall in love with his beloved cities, we, holding our breath and mentally thanking God, for this chance meeting, listened to him, and by the end of the trip we almost certainly knew that the next country to which we would go would be Portugal.
Lisbon, Lisboa, as residents affectionately call their city, late August, sunny Sunday morning, we walk briskly along Avenida da Liberdade from the Marquis de Pombai square to the city center. The avenue is wide and completely atypical for the Portuguese capital. Not far away is the captivating beauty of Spain with its outlandishly fabulous palace houses, but where, where are these fabulous stone laces, these houses are stone flowers, and the first disappointment comes.
Houses, as one, emphatically strict, almost nowhere to be seen so beloved by me delicate coquettish balconies and luxurious cast-iron lattices. The street is deserted, only some crazy person is bathing in a fountain, rare cars are moving along the road, no one overtakes us, no one is in a hurry to meet us. The Lisboners left on a hot Sunday afternoon to the cool ocean. This feeling of unhurriedness and unhurriedness did not leave us during the entire trip, perhaps because the sidewalks, lined with colorful mosaics of black and white pebbles, do not at all dispose to rush and hectic, or maybe locals understood the simple truth that, slowly, you can do more.
Mosaic sidewalks and houses decorated with multi-colored ajulejos, an old wooden tram running past with a whistle, clang and roar, sometimes forcing you to squeeze into the walls of buildings, the streets are so narrow that give an unforgettable charm to the city. The city took us prisoner gradually, not immediately and not all of a sudden, it opened before us its narrow crooked streets and houses with simple balconies, on which the hostesses dried clothes, he called and led us to cozy squares, on each of which there is always a monument. no matter how tiny it is.
Madeira Island
And this monument merges so organically with the square that it seems that it always stood here five and ten centuries ago. This city does not have the splendor of Rome, the pomp of Madrid, but there is a harmony of white old cathedrals and houses with certainly orange tiled roofs with blue skies and bright sun.
We walked and rejoiced that quite by chance, on Sunday, we ended up in a city where Sunday services are held in cathedrals, and we can freely enter any of them, and for some reason nearby all the temples there was a strong smell of incense. Temples, outwardly austere, amaze on the inside with their unique splendor and wealth. We admired wooden carvings, carved figures of the Virgin Mary, the apostles, whose faces and clothes were painted in an absolutely incredible range of colors.
We recalled the films that we watched in childhood, in which we showed these statues of extraordinary beauty, how we dreamed of seeing them with at least one eye, and we were overjoyed that all our childhood dreams came true in this sunny city... We went into churches, no one chased us away and no one shouted at us, like at home, sat down on a bench to rest and listen to the organ and church singing, and fatigue gradually disappeared and cheerfulness returned.
the city of Porto Monij
On the first day, going around the city center, we decided to climb to the fortress of St. George. This rise under the hot August sun, when the thermometer is plus 33, we will probably remember more than once the cold Moscow winter. I had to go up the hill all the time, in some places the ascent was so steep that steps were made on the sidewalk for pedestrians. But when we did not find the fortress on the first attempt in a cramped maze of streets, my handbag weighed heavier than any suitcase at that moment!
When you go up on foot to the fortress of St. George, then to the right of it you see a white, like a swan, church surrounded by high monastic walls. She reigned so mysteriously and majestically in the sultry air that, translated from the language of the Indians, she would have been called something like this "Church, soaring like a bird." In the evening at the hotel we opened the guidebook and recognized her immediately. The Church of San Vicente de Fora is one of the most remarkable architectural monuments Lisbon.
On Monday morning we went to Sintra and returned to Lisbon at the beginning of the sixth. After yesterday's hike in the thirty-degree heat, we felt like wadded dolls. After a short friction, when my husband tried to convince me that it was most appropriate to this moment will have a cold beer, we quickly came to a consensus and trudged to tram 28 stop.
Sintra
It almost never has empty seats because it is constantly packed with tourists. Closer to the final stop, the number of people in the carriage diminished, and when I accidentally looked from the window to the faces of my fellow travelers, I could hardly hold back my laughter. People, very young and mature, were sitting with such blissfully happy smiles ... actually, I imagined paradise to myself a little differently. And none of the people who came into my field of vision looked out the window !!!
I knew that we would go to the Galusto Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon back in Moscow. We went to the museum on foot. It's just a stone's throw from the Marquis Square of Pombai and we arrived before the opening - the museum opens at 9:30. We walked along the picturesque square, went up the street. We saw a house: a fortress, not a fortress, like a museum, and began to look for it on the map. A middle-aged man approached us and began to explain that we were going in the wrong direction, the museum was located below. How expensive are such signs of attention in an unfamiliar city! We felt very comfortable in Portugal, whose inhabitants are unobtrusive, helpful and friendly.
Lisbon: City Elevator Tour
The Galusto Gulbenkian Museum is the Tretyakov Gallery of Lisbon. On the internet they write about him unfairly little. Galusto Gulbenkian, philanthropist, Armenian oil tycoon. He began collecting works of art as a child and has been doing this all his life. When the collection became large enough, he decided to transfer it to the National Gallery in Washington DC or the National Gallery in London. But he could not come to an agreement with these museums. For the last 13 years of his life, he lived in Lisbon and bequeathed his art collection to the city.
This collection is recognized as one of the best in Europe, it features works of both Eastern and Western art. In the collection of Western art worthy place takes "Portrait of an Old Man" by Rembrandt. Until the mid-1920s, this painting was kept in the Hermitage and was the best of the Rembrandt collection in the Hermitage. Despite the protests of the Hermitage staff, it was sold to Gulbenkian. At the same time, he managed to acquire 51 more masterpieces from the Hermitage. The researcher of the world antiques market D. Reitlinger, commenting on this purchase, wrote in 1960: "If the Russian government sold such a collection today, then no private buyer would be able to purchase it."
Preparing for the trip, I read that Gulbenkian in the same period purchased from the Hermitage 24 pieces of French silver, made by the greatest French masters of the 18th century on the orders of the Russian Empresses Elizabeth Petrovna and Catherine II. Unfortunately, I don’t know whether we admired this silverware in the museum or not, but the items that we saw are unique.
Lisbon: Jeronimos Monastery
In the last 3 rooms, canvases of my adored impressionists are collected: Corot, Manet, Monet, Degas, Renoir, is it worth listing further?
We arrived at the Church of San Vicente de Fora at eight o'clock in the evening on the last day of our stay in Lisbon. On the steps sat tired girls, looking German or Dutch, reading a guidebook. The building of the church is part of the ensemble of an ancient monastery with covered galleries. I completely agree that this temple is one of the most remarkable architectural monuments of Lisbon, it is not in vain that we strived for it so much. We did not manage to get inside that evening, it was too late for visits, and then we decided to go down to the Tagus embankment.
The thought was wonderful, next to the church of San Vicente de Fora is one of the most beautiful churches in Lisbon, Santa Engracia. The church is made in the form of a Greek cross in the Portuguese Baroque and Neo-Baroque styles and is one of the most majestic in the city. Now this church houses a pantheon. We managed to see a lot of churches in Lisbon, but in front of this temple I stood shocked. It started to get dark little by little, in Lisbon it gets dark late, we wandered along the old streets of Alfama to the center. Alfama is a workers' quarter, in the evening residents poured out of the entrances and animatedly discussed the news across the street.
Funchal
During the three days of our stay, we managed to: stand in a small queue, climb the Santa Justa lift and wander along the upper Baixa, go to Belem to the Jeronymite Monastery (Jerominimos), pay homage to the Belem Tower and the Monument to the Discoverers, try to photograph the Bridges on April 25 and Vasco de Gama ... History does not tolerate the subjunctive mood, but if everything could be changed, I would not go to the Oceanarium. The oceanarium is really large and interesting, but recently we were in Vietnam and saw in Nya Chang the oceanarium, which is not inferior to the Lisbon one, and I would definitely go to the tile museum and the National Palace of Ajuda.
We liked the Lisbon metro more than the Moscow metro for its ease of use, you won't have any problems with it. Their languages are also all right. If in Italy it is tight even with English, then in Portugal English respect. In hotels they also speak German, but they don't even speak of French, they came in handy when going through passport control, we talked in French in restaurants and shops.
Urgently put out of your suitcase your high-heeled pumps and your favorite shoes with a 3 cm heel, in which you rush at a gallop after work to school. It is better to take shoes on a 1.5 cm light platform so that hiking not to feel the pavement protrusions with every point of the foot.
I don't want to remember the hotel in which we lived in Lisbon. The Embassador Hotel is located next to Pombai's Marquis Square. I would give him a plus two. Its advantages are that it is located in the center, and you will not be allowed to starve to death, the food there is ordinary for three rubles, and the fruits are surprisingly decent.
Funchal: City Market
The room is very cramped, the linen is not washed, there is no soundproofing. Since the hotel is cheap, there are a lot of young people, and what young people do on vacation is right, they walk. Soulful Russian song "Girls are walking and we are having fun", this is not about us. While the golden youth were having fun, we tried in vain to fall asleep, even if get up and start dancing with them. Basically, it was the worst three-ruble note we've ever been to.
Previous authors wrote in detail about how, where and what to drive. I have 3 travel guides for Portugal and I will be happy to share information.
From Lisbon we went to Madeira. We rested at the Pestana Carlton hotel. The hotel is great. It is located in the center of Funchal, you will go to the right to the center, you will get to the left, you will go to the Promenade, you will come. We give the staff "excellent" for their work. The room is cleaned 2 times a day, the maid changes the beach towels in the room in the evening. The room is spacious and very comfortable. The bathroom and the bathroom are separate, and the bathroom also has a shower. And the best part is that the bathroom floor is heated!
The hotel has 2 large swimming pools, both with sea water, clean everywhere. Poolside umbrellas are chargeable, 2 euros. You take an elevator down to the ocean, and then, through a well-equipped entrance, you "flop" into the ocean. The water is clean and clear. While we were there (the last decade of August), the water in the ocean was warm 24 degrees. You can go snorkelling because there is something to see.
Fish swim, shy, it is clear that there are not so many of them as in Egypt, crabs crawl on stones, sea anemones grow. At the coast, we saw two types of sea stars, and my husband, with our guys from the hotel, chased an octopus, who was very offended by them when they poked a finger in his direction, but stubbornly continued to live in the same place to the endless joy of our men.
I had to visit the island of Capri, live 10 days on the island in the middle Indian Ocean but the island of Madeira appeared very different than I could have imagined. The island is very beautiful, it is resort place created by God for relaxation and health. I am allergic, I went with caution to the "island of flowers", there are really so many flowers ... !!!, so many ... - the sea, no - the ocean! But with allergies, there were almost no problems. On the contrary, although there were only 8 days, the allergic rhinitis immediately disappeared.
I was very afraid to go to the Monte Garden, it contains thousands of plants from all over the globe... You have to go to the Monte Garden for the opening, it opens at 9:30. Otherwise, you will not take good photos, visitors noticeably arrive for dinner. And you will have to stand in line for the funicular for half an hour, but do you need it? Monte's garden is located on high mountain and the view of the city and the ocean opens up like this - emotions overwhelm. You can go down from this mountain on a wooden sleigh with a breeze, or you can be a spectator, I won't even say which is more pleasant.
This garden is the pinnacle of design art; beauty, harmony, and tranquility reign in it. If you are a landscape designer and are not devoid of ambition, you better not go to the Monte Garden, you will be left without a piece of bread. Realizing that you will never achieve such perfection, you will quit your job! We look at photographs at home, the verdict of our friends is unanimous, great. But not a single one, even our best photograph, conveyed either the atmosphere of the Monte Garden, or the charm of Funchal, or the beauty of the mountains.
And what words can you convey that feeling when you are driving out of the bend, and just two meters away from us, clouds are floating, and such a loud "Ah !!!" exhale, that the glass from him began to vibrate. But back to our sheep, sorry, allergies. You can see the air in Monte's garden is so healing that I endured the trip to it relatively easily.
But when the next day we went to Botanical Garden, here it already began and no one and nothing, neither painted parrots, nor a funny turtle, nor proud pavochki, nor giant cacti, were interested. And by the next morning it became much easier again, miracles and nothing more. If you want to go, then go first to the Botanical Gardens, and then to the Monte Gardens. Although they are in the neighborhood, they are very different from each other.
I didn’t have to be bored on vacation, we spent 2-3 hours lounging on the beach and forward, exploring the surroundings, and there are many interesting places. We bought a guide to Funchal in Moscow and went around all the places about which it is written. They did not immediately find a monument to Columbus. Not bowing to Columbus is a sin. After an unsuccessful search, they asked the policeman, Uncle Styopa, who knows everything about his small town, and Uncle Styopa makes a helpless gesture.
Monte garden
They asked young people, very decent in appearance, in their eyes a thought, young people are surprised. I am also surprised, I ask in French, then in English - there is no monument. The travel agency sympathized with us: “Was it worth it to knock down and look for a monument to some upstart Spaniard? There is such an insignificant monument for the history of the city ”. We stumbled upon the Columbus monument on the last day! It is located in the square, which we passed every day, Columbus stands near a small chapel, looks at the ocean, though not to the west, but to the south.
Plenty of pleasant impressions from the trip. Take an excursion to the west of the island. Near the Savoy hotel in the travel agency you can take excursions with a Russian guide, but we bought it with foreigners, it costs much cheaper. The guide spoke to us in French, and to the Brazilians in his native Portuguese. From Lisbon we went to the Cape of Cabo de Roca, but I did not feel it. There was a darkness to the people, they looked, took pictures, put a tick. But when we arrived at Cape Kabu Zhirau, there were about five tourists.
If we had not seen this beauty this summer, we would have remained a hundred times poorer. I do not hide my age, but there, there, I was eighteen. I wanted to scream, rage, jump up to the clouds - in my opinion, this is called euphoria. I raised my hands, stood at the edge of the cliff, I felt like a bird. At some point, I felt scared that I was about to get off the ground and fly. In order to feel nature, you have to be one-on-one with it, so that no one interferes, and then the connection with the cosmos will go. The views open up there ..., our Brazilians - the camera is dead.
For the sake of one swim in Port Maniges it was already worth going. Near the coast, in natural volcanic deposits, there are pools, fenced off from the ocean by a completely low wall. You swim, and the ocean waves are whipping nearby. Sometimes the waves roll in strong and the local people have a favorite pastime, to sit on the wall so that you are washed away by the wave into the pool, and when the wave flies, it begins to seem that it will drag you into the depths of the sea.
You may have noticed that men prefer to be friends with smart girls, but fall in love, do crazy things and lose their heads from beautiful ones. So it happened with Madeira, it's not for nothing that this island has a female name. There are many countries in the world that I would like to see, God willing, we will get to them, but I dream of returning to Madeira again and again.
Galina Shefer. The material is posted with the permission of the author.
