Mezmay - unique place, attracting to itself. People from all over Russia come here forever. Some people feel cosmic energy here, because it’s not for nothing that psychics come here, calling them “Mezmay” anomalous zone" and even "Russian Shambhala". Others are fascinated beautiful nature, creative people find inspiration here. Dozens of interesting things pass through Mezmay tourist routes. I'll tell you about one of them.
Mezmay is translated from Adyghe as “forest of wild apples.” Initially founded as a village of lumberjacks and gold miners. Currently it is a mountain tourist village in the Absheron region Krasnodar region. Once upon a time there was a narrow-gauge railway connecting the village with the rest of the world. Now the operating section of the narrow-gauge railway remains in the neighboring village of Guamka. Until recently, there was a bad road leading to Mezmay, but now the asphalt has been paved to the end and it has become easier to arrive. The village is located 180 km from Krasnodar.
Despite the fact that many tourists from all over Russia constantly come to Mezmay, a regular bus still does not go here. They say that Kamaz only drives once a day, and even then not every day. Therefore, the easiest way to get here is by your car.
In the vicinity of Mezmay there is a very interesting Mount Matuk, the story will be about her. Its height is almost 2000 m and is located only 14 km from the village. The good thing is that the road leading here is well-trodden and wide, and you can even climb the mountain in a good SUV. But we are not jeepers, so we walked to the top. Climbing the mountain is difficult for one day, so we took two days. On the first day we settled in Ivanova Polyana, where there is a spring and beautiful views, also ran to Mount Zaudu, but there is nothing to do there in the summer, because... The panorama cannot be seen from the tall grass; it is better to do this in May.
Matuk is part of the Lagonaki range and borders Caucasian Nature Reserve, so you don’t need to buy a ticket to the reserve, and there are no checkpoints. At the very top they saw a herd of horses and a shepherd, but it is possible that rangers could walk here and collect payment.
2. The road to Mount Matuk is not difficult, even children can handle it, but you need to understand that a 14 km hike up the mountain is equal to 28 km on a regular flat road. 
3. There are many mountain flowers at the top of the mountain. There are almost no trees, just endless green meadows. 
4. Picture from Windows. 
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8. From Ivanova Polyana to Mount Matuk it’s a 8 km walk, actually we got there quickly. The first peak we saw, Mount Nagoy-Chuk (2467 m), is already in the reserve. 
9. This is what the Lagonaki ridge on which our mountain is located looks like. 
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11. We were there at the end of July, the weather was fine. 
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18. These rocks are called "Two-story". 
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20. From Mount Matuk there are beautiful panoramas of the Lago-Naki plateau, you can see the Oshten, Pshekha-Su, Nagoy-Chuk mountains, the Tsitsa River gorge and others. 
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23. From here you can clearly see Mount Oshten (2800 m). 
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Based on materials from the book by Bormotov I.V.
We decided to plunge into the purple and gold of early autumn not in the usual way, throwing on our backpacks and going forward, but to get on dashing jeeps and rush along the mountainous off-road. The route chosen was as follows: Maykop - Dagestanskaya - Krasny Dagestan - Nizhny Novgorod - Guamka - traverse by jeep of the Lagonaki ridge with heights: Lysaya -1159m, Matazyk -1328m, Ryrytaya - 1514m, Bukva -1706m, Zhitnaya - 1997m, Matuk -1957 ,6m. Mezmay -1939.6 m and Abadzesh -2369m.
Arriving in Guamka, we were amazed by what we saw. There was nowhere for an apple to fall in the vehicle area. There were more than a dozen painted jeeps and the same number of ATVs standing here, offering tourists a ride through the high mountain zone of Adygea, to Mount Zhitnaya. What struck us most was the “huge” jeep, made on the basis of the GAZ-66. A luxury interior from a simple jeep was attached to the large wheels.
Traditionally, we visited the local souvenir market and walked several hundred meters along the sleepers railway, admired the steep walls of the Guam Gorge and frankly admired the amazing beauty of the stone creation.
Guamka comes from the Adyghe word Guame. It means smell. In spring and early summer, the damp, shady gorge is filled with the tart aroma of flowering capers, and in autumn with the pungent smell of the serpentine worm. The pleasant enchanting aroma of the gorge changes each time depending on the predominance of wild plants blooming in it, linden, azalea or mountain jasmine. This incomparable aroma, noticed by the Circassians hundreds of years ago, gave its name to the ridge, the gorge and the small village of lumberjacks.
How many beautiful and poetic words have been said about the amazing beauty of the Guam Gorge, we are also delighted with this earthly miracle.
The Guam Gorge is an amazing natural monument, striking with its splendor, abundance of minerals and diversity of vegetation.
If you are lucky enough to get into the Guam Gorge, then, closing your eyes deeply and inhaling freely with pleasure, you will immediately feel the tart taste of real mountain air coming from the Lagonaki Highlands and infused with flowering herbs growing in the Guam Gorge itself.
Take a close look at the steep rock walls rising up into the blue autumn sky, and you will see the true uniqueness of the Guam Gorge, in the delightful colors of the mountain layers.
Multi-colored rocks: from grayish-blue, yellow-red, lead-black to whitish-smoky. In the depths of this fabulous fault in the earth’s crust, as in an amazing artist’s workshop, under different angles of sunlight, nature creates and surprises every day with an unimaginable range of living colors, tones and halftones.
The rock walls of the Guam Canyon belong to the limestones of the Upper Jurassic period. Sedimentary rock deposits occur in layers and are all different colors. And the secret of the coloring of the layers is explained by the fact that at the bottom of the Upper Jurassic Sea, where limestones were deposited, at different times, depending on changing conditions, the composition of dyes - organic and inorganic compounds - also changed.
Touch the rocks polished over millions of years with your palms and feel how your body is filled with strength, health and the divine natural energy of the mountains.
Guamka, a small village of lumberjacks, in a short period of time became a center of pilgrimage for excursion groups. Every year the number of people wishing to see this wonder of the world increases.
After talking with mountain “jeepers” and receiving advice from them on the planned route, we set off. The road, carved into the rocks, rose in a narrow, steep serpentine to a dripping waterfall called “Men’s Tears”. Having driven several tens of meters away from it, we stopped at the edge of a bottomless abyss. This is the famous vantage point called "Cockerel".
An amazing panorama of the Kurdzhips River valley unfolded before us in all its glory. Deep below are the houses of the village of Guamka. Nearby, bathing in the rays of the sun and shimmering with reflections, the water ripples of the Kurdzhips River sparkled. Near the tourist hotel, which looked like an ancient castle, tourists were scurrying around in small dots. Somewhere there, in a distant wavy haze, among a sea of forests, the city of Maykop disappeared.
Enchanted magnificent view On a quiet sunny day, without a breeze or light air movement, we froze in admiration. Yes! There is something in the mountains that captivates the soul, makes the heart beat tremulously and captivates us forever. Drunk from the mountain air and free soaring of the soul, we felt our bodies filled with the sweet nectar of beauty, and how the thirst to see the real charm of the mountains was gradually quenched.
We look at the inhabitants of Guamka from the height of birds' flight and understand what a blessing it is to live in the mountains, every day to fill our chests with the honey aroma of the intoxicating Lagonaki air and listen to the rustling of the foliage of the Caucasian forests.
Here below, the forests have not yet been touched by the autumn fire of withering. But the dark ruby blanket of fallen dogwood fruits, amber scatterings of wild apples, the delicate wine color of curly viburnums, and the chocolate shine of overripe forest pears are already talking about autumn.
The higher you go in the mountains, the more noticeably the composition of the forest changes. Dark green boxwood forests give way to maple and beech trees interspersed with fir trees. Here the quiet, thoughtful forest has only just begun to dapple with autumn gold. A light, flying breeze blows gently, caresses the trees, moves through the branches, rustles and plays with the leaves, creating that quiet magical music of farewell to the foliage, which is so pleasant and desired by them alone.
But here is a vast clearing with an obelisk to the partisan detachment named after. Gastello. Beyond the clearing, a rocky gravel road descends into a small clay gully. It's time to confirm jeeps' all-terrain vehicle status. Having connected the front axles, skidding and throwing dirt on the sides like a fan, the jeeps confidently overcame the obstacle.
Having escaped from the thorny Caucasian forests, we found ourselves in the alpine meadows of the Lagonaki ridge, which were hidden from us by the milky blanket of the morning fog. The deep gorge was wrapped in a downy veil of a sugar cloud. The morning damp coolness rose from the deep gorge with a subtle movement of air, instilling hope for good weather. A swarm of small cold raindrops flew from the high heavens and sprinkled us with crystal beads.
Moving in a foggy cloud along the Lagonaki ridge, we came across a herd of horses peacefully grazing in a meadow. Nearby there was a shepherd's cat and a spring. I immediately wanted to drink pure spring water. After all, there is nothing more pleasant and tastier for a person in this world than spring water. We gladly touched our lips to the purest, unclouded surface of the crystal water of the spring.
Silk threads of sunlight pierced the gray mantle of fog and descended onto our lawn. Through a break in the fog, the autumn blue of the sky emerged with a bright light. The radiant crystal light of its purity expanded, freeing the top of Mount Zhitnaya from the fog.
Vast alpine slopes of northern exposure opened up before us. So that's why it's planned to open a ski resort here! Almost 2000 meters above sea level there are beautiful ski slopes, with good rollouts. Just a paradise for skiers. And this part of the Lagonaki Highlands does not belong to the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve. On a busy mountain road A column of quad bikes appeared on the Lagonaki ridge. Tourists traveling on this miracle technique have a route to the very beautiful lake Lagonaki Highlands, located in the northern circus of Oshten - Lake Oshten.
With delight, admiring the amazing views of the mountains, we slowly climb to one of the peaks of the Lagonaki ridge, located between Mount Matuk and Zhitnaya and are frozen with admiration. An amazingly beautiful country of mountains opened up before us. With a giant crown of thorns and sharp bared teeth of a shark, a beautiful rock citadel rose from the sea of forest.
The deep stone gorge, like a giant sea shell, opened its magical doors and presented us with the canyon of the Tsitse River, shining with eternal snow. This completely wild, unbridled shrine of the Lagonaki plateau, the royal pearl of Adygea, amazed us with its beauty.
In a shining crown high mountains: Uriel, Abadzesh and Nagoy-Chuk, gray-headed Oshten towered like a giant giant. In the strange land of rocks, in the gloomy, completely wild gorges, chamois and bears have made their home. Fir and pine trees cling to the rocks in chains and crawl up. Giant screes covered the slopes with gray sheets.
At such moments, we are stunned by the beauty of the mountains, blissful and dreamy. The eyes of my friends shine with sparkles and shed the light of a soul glowing with delight! These are the routes of my simple happiness! These are the castles in the air of my dreams!
Hello mountains and forest! - I shout and it seems to me that they are also greeting me. The trees rustled their leaves at once, the alpine grasses cheerfully nodded at me with their flowers, and the wind, rushing from somewhere above, suddenly ruffled my hair and disappeared into the forest, joyfully rattling dry branches and playing a humorous overture known only to it.
I slowly descend under the rocky wall of the ridge and sit comfortably under a spreading pine tree, in a green velvet cushion of mosses. In front of me, in the zone of the maple forest, autumn poured out plumes of purple robes. The majestic plane trees slowly tried on the colorful gypsy outfit, and the white-faced birches dressed in festive dresses. From here you can clearly see the upper and lower canyon of the Tsitse River. In some places, at the very bottom of the gorge, the surface of the Tsitsa River sparkles like sunbeams. This is my cherished place, warmed by my soul. And nothing else is needed. So I would sit and absorb this divine beauty of the mountains with every cell. And in addition to the amazing beauty of the mountains, there were a lot of eagles circling in a round dance. But no, I peer into the blue sky and see these are not eagles, but long-necked storks. Where do they come from here in the mountains?
What a joy it is when you have the opportunity to be alone with nature, watch its measured life, feel like a part of it mysterious world. And then you begin to feel how its invisible, magical and healing rays penetrate deep into your heart and heal the excruciating, aching pain in your soul that has arisen from the empty, spiritual life of the modern city.
How short the autumn day is! Now the mountains, engulfed in the fiery flames of the sunset, began to glow with a delightfully solemn bright light. This makes them seem even higher, more triumphant, as if, finally, to surprise us once again, Mother Nature splashed molten copper onto the slopes of Oshten. And from this bright crimson fire the whole sky flared up and burned. Throwing festive fireworks all the way into space.
Gennady Zavada
SONG ABOUT "COMING"
Long live the sky above!
Long live the blue mountains in the distance!
Native thresholds, wheels clattering,
Steep roads and bitterness of separation.
A drawn crochet, a twisted path,
I flow behind you like a murmuring stream.
The gorge holds deep secrets,
It's not dripping over us, it's burning over us...
Long live the sun, may the darkness disappear!
Long live summer, and even winter!..
Long live the heaviness of overworked shoulders,
The random joy of unexpected meetings,
The smile of a beloved is a sister of hope,
Fire from the fireplace, smoke from the fire.
Friends of containers and bars, a star in the air,
Guitar chords, tents in the forest!..
I'm happy, I'm the one who went through all this!..
And all because I searched and found it.
We believe that our dreams will come true.
Long live me, and long live you!
Away from disputes, to an unknown land,
An ambulance takes us away: “Guamka - Mezmay.”
Last weekend, the multi-sports club "Radio Cheget" opened new season from the so-called snowshoeing, which self-evidently stands for winter hiking in snowshoes. All three days were perfect sunny weather.
True, having announced this event in advance and prepared for it, before leaving I felt a pre-cold malaise, but I did not cancel anything, which still made it possible to implement my plan, albeit on a different scale.
There were 9 participants in total. We started in the Guamka farm and went up the road to the Cold Spring. At first there was not much snow, only on the shady northern sections of the road the snow was continuous.
And at first we followed the tracks of the brave cars without snowshoes at all.
On the way up it was quite warm, we had to unbutton our clothes, undress, or, as in this photo, help each other unbutton the ventilation in the jacket sleeve :)
A small waterfall over Guamka froze.
Well, it’s so small... it’s normal.
A short break.
We walked along the rut for the first hour, then we had to put on snowshoes, because that day no one traveled further and we walked on virgin soil.
The forest gradually became more coniferous and snowier.
At this moment, I begin to realize that my cold is beginning to progress sharply and the pace of the entire hike has slowed down somewhat, but nevertheless, we succeeded.
After the Cold Spring, we turned higher - onto the portage leading down Mount Ryrytaya, the snow was getting heavier.
And the pre-sunset sun saw us off.
First stop.
There was approximately knee-deep snow in open areas, although under particularly dense fir trees there were also patches without snow.
There was plenty of snow in the open glades.
On the second day we continued to climb to the edge of the forest to reach the open spaces alpine meadows, or rather in this moment to endless snow fields :)
So, the fir is gone, the forest has thinned out. The views began to open up. Behind us, somewhere far below, is the Guam Gorge and the village of Nizhny Novgorod.
The top of Mount Rupture. At the bottom left in the valley is the village of Chernigovskoe.
On the horizon is the traditional panorama of mountains for this area (from left to right) - Bolshoy Tkhach, Maly Tkhach, Asbestnaya, Acheshbok, ridge. Skirda, Dzyuvya (Solontsovy Range).
We climbed out to the pass between the town of Bukva and the town of Zhitnaya.
Our goal is Mount Zhitnaya. Our route goes along the so-called Lagonaki ridge, but this ridge has no direct relation to the Lagonaki plateau, starting much to the north almost from the village of Chernigovskaya (although in the end, with a strong decrease after Mount Mezmay, it does adjoin the plateau).
Part of the group remained at the pass, sheltering from the wind on a warm spot under a rock.
The rest went radially (without backpacks) to the highest point of this ridge - Mount Zhitnaya. In time, we only had time to ascend there radially and immediately had to go down into the forest to organize the next overnight stay.
Group on the Zhitnaya ridge.
And on her pre-apex shoulder.
At the pass, as well as at any other “ventilated” areas, there is not as much snow as there should have been in winter at such an altitude. It is “blown away” by the wind.
Let's go down.
In the cold evening shade, but in the forest where you can have a fire and generally warmer at night than in open spaces.
Here on the northern slopes of Zhitnaya there is the most snow. If it weren't for snowshoes, you could have fallen waist deep.
We quickly dropped about 500 meters of altitude and camped for the night in a more or less flat spot near the road, so that the next day we could quickly reach civilization.
I didn’t spend the night on purpose that day; due to being unwell, I preferred to sleep through breakfast, and then, on the contrary, get ready before everyone else and slowly go out ahead, so as not to delay the others. Here is the only random shot.
On the way back, we noticed how much the amount of snow had decreased, especially in those places where all kinds of transport had rolled it out. And if on February 21 the clearing near the Cold Spring was with untouched virgin snow, then two days later it was rolled to dirt (phew!) by a bunch of ATVs, and then several SUVs.
The photo shows Monakhova Cave on the opposite slope of the Guam Gorge.
Initially we wanted to do big ring, returning through Mezmay, but due to the low pace and wet snow, we had to return to Guamka almost the same way we started.
35. Track here - http://caucasia.ru/site/track/1160 (without climbing Zhitnaya).
Latitude: 44°12′13′08′70′′′N
Longitude: 39°91′49′74′01′′′E
Lagonaki ridge- a mountain range located near the Lago-Naki plateau (Maikop district, Republic of Adygea), stretching from northwest to southeast for almost 17 km. The territorial border between the Republic of Adygea and the region of the Mezmaysky rural settlement of the Apsheronsky district of the Krasnodar Territory passes through the crest of the ridge. Also here the territories of the Caucasian State Natural Biosphere Reserve and the World Heritage Site are divided natural heritage « Western Caucasus" Most of the Lagonaki ridge is covered with a grass carpet, on which a variety of endemic species of flowers are located, among the thickets of which you can see running lizards. Broad-winged birds soar in the sky: bearded vultures, vultures, kites.
The Lagonaki ridge includes smooth dome-shaped peaks such as: Lysaya(1159m), Matazyk(1328m), Ryrytaya(1514m), city Letter, Zhitnaya(most high point ridge/there are also such names as “Tur” and “Ostraya”), Matuk city, Mezmay. Fantastic panoramas open from every mountain top.
Mountain Letter (1700m) – located 12 km from the Guamka farm. From all sides of the peak one can see wooded valleys spread out in the lower reaches. In the western part, the slopes of the Letter fall steeply down, and two kilometers from the foot stretches the lower canyon Tsitsa River. IN south direction another hillock (1724m) is visible, which has not yet received official name, but probably already nicknamed somehow local residents. Just like the Letter, western wall strewn with rocky outcrops. To the south and southeast there are impressive subalpine fields, abruptly turning into a forest zone. Mountain tributary Kurdzhips River – Dry beam– flows a little to the east, beyond its bed rises Mount Zauda(1539m), located near a not particularly remarkable Ivanova Polyana. Next to the Letter there is a shepherd's shed.
2.3 km south of the Letter is located Mount Zhitnaya (1996m), from the slopes of which you can observe more fascinating views. The most interesting thing is the overview of the steep gorge of the upper reaches of the Tsitsa River, which belongs to the Natural Monument. The gorge is backed by massive walls Nagoy-Chuk ridge on the one hand, and the steep slopes of the Lagonaki ridge on the other. A waterfall breaks through the steep wall of the Nagoychuk massif, and there is no way to approach it. There is a small cave in Mount Zhitnaya, and a few meters from it there is Observation deck and right there, a small stream goes towards the Tsitsinsky channel.
Between the Zhitnaya and Matuk mountains rises a small wooden structure called “KOSH”; such structures can be found very often on the routes. As Wikipedia suggests, koshas are called auls encountered on the way during nomadism, and also in koshas, with the onset of spring, wealthy Bashkirs lived. Such structures were built on spacious meadows, where it is very convenient to keep an eye on grazing livestock.
The Alpine house is made of wooden boards covered with felt. As a rule, inside the booth there is a stove, two-tier shelves and a table. A tourist group of 10 people or more can fit inside. The Sukhaya Balka stream flows near the kosh under Mount Zhitnaya.
Before reaching the Dvuhetazhka cliff, there is another spring - Cement (or Concrete). It was built by German fascists during the Great Patriotic War, and to this day, it has been preserved, although it is already a little shabby.
Two-story building – gentle rocky ledge at the base Matuk Mountains(1957m). The surface is perfectly flat and covered as if with a terry green carpet. The perpendicular rock walls consist of two levels of almost the same size, which is apparently why the Dvuhetazhka rock was nicknamed that way. On the two-story platform, magnificent panoramic views are presented to the eye. The grand gorge of the Tsitsa River, surrounded by fir trees and boulders, is barely visible in the distance. But the sound of water created by the rapid flow of the mountain river Tsitsa, rushing from the northern slope of Mount Oshten, which is also observed behind the Tsitsinsky Canyon, is clearly audible. At the very cliff of the Matukskaya Dvuhetazhka, the right tributary of the Tsitsa River – Glubokaya Balka (source – the south-eastern slopes of Mount Uriel/Murzikal tract) is clearly visible. Near its bed there are two Mezmai caves (Cave of the Six/Six). In the southeast, the bumpy Nagoy-Chuk ridge stands out, a little to the left of it are gracefully carved stone walls mountains Uriel, descending to the valley of the Tsitsa River.
The final peak of the Lagonaki ridge is Mount Mezmay(1940m), located 15 km from the village of Mezmay. In the eastern part of the mountain there is a KOSH, next to it there is a spring with clean drinking water. From the cliff there is a stunning view of the valley of the Kurdizhps River (the source is Mount Abadzesh), which carved out beautiful gorges and gorges in the rock masses (Guam Gorge). In the southwest flows one of the tributaries of the Tsitsa River - Deep beam, there is also a convenient site for camping. On the opposite side hides another stream, rushing towards the bed of the Kurdzhips River. The saddle between the Mezmay and Uriel mountains forms ravines that descend steeply to the valley of the Tsitsa River, allowing access to the Tsitsin Canyon. Domesticated cows and horses are often found in the alpine meadow.
Climate. Very cunning in mountainous areas weather. It is here, in the mountains, that you can observe the process of the water cycle in nature. In the morning, as a rule, the weather is clear, but when the first clouds begin to appear, it will rain. By evening, the bad weather usually passes, allowing you to admire the beautiful sunset.
A road has already formed to the Dvuhetazhka rock, allowing reckless drivers to rush along the Lagonaki ridge in cars. It’s actually strange why this is allowed...
It is on its territory that Mount Zhitnaya rises. But first things first. In the village of Guamka there is a tourist site where those who want to see with their own eyes the heights of Adygea, including the peak of Zhitnaya, gather. Jeeps depart from here and take people along serpentine roads to mountain peaks. At the peak of tourist activity, there is a whole parking lot on the site.
The name of the Guamka gorge comes from the word smell, and indeed, depending on the season, this place is full of different aromas. This is truly a natural monument that never ceases to amaze with its beauty and grandeur. From this gorge the road leads along a serpentine line laid out in the rocks. It rises like a ribbon to the “Male Tears” waterfall. A little further behind it is the observation deck “Cockerel”.
From here we see the amazing landscape of the Kurdzhips River valley. The surface of the water and the forests behind which stands Maykop. Standing at such a height and breathing in the mountain air, you feel unusually free and light. Moving further along the ridge, you find yourself in meadows. Here you can stumble upon peacefully grazing horses, which fit so organically into the overall landscape. The variety of flowers and grasses is comparable only to the meadows of the Alps. And now, before the gaze of the tourist, it reveals itself, the top of Mount Zhitnaya.
More than 2000 meters above sea level, beautiful place for organization ski resort. The well-groomed slopes will delight any ski lover. If you come closer and find yourself between the peaks of Zhitnaya and Matuk, you can see the Lagonaki ridge in all its glory. Here in the gorge is the canyon of the Tsitsa River, which is one of the calling cards of these places. It is hidden from prying eyes, but pleases those who were able to climb so far. So wild and unknown, it bursts with natural beauty.
Among all the peaks of the ridge stands Oshten, who seems to be the eldest in this family. In its gray peaks, among the fir and pine trees, bears and chamois found refuge. Nearby are the peaks of Uriel, Abadzesh and Nagoy-Chuk.
Standing in such beauty, you forget about everything in the world, you want to scream, breathe in that mountain freedom that is in the air. Moreover, I want to come to these surroundings at any time of the year. Autumn will greet travelers with the gold of maples, winter will enchant travelers with snow-white landscapes, spring will delight travelers with awakening nature, and in summer the greenery of flowers and trees will not leave anyone indifferent.
It’s true what they say is that the mountains always have their own atmosphere, a kind of special tranquility envelops these places and you want to come back here again and again.
