One way to love and understand wine is to travel through wine region. It is through landscapes, smells, local gastronomy, through acquaintance with winemakers that it is easiest for many, including me, to understand and discover wine. Therefore, acquaintance with Chianti, one of the symbols of Italian winemaking, I suggest starting with the landscapes and cities of the Tuscan Chianti region.
1. I'll start with the classic views. Chianti is one of the most popular Italian regions among tourists, whose hills and cypresses are repeatedly replicated on hundreds of postcards. However, this is not a reason to admire them again, especially since these places have downright magical photogenicity.
8. The whole Chianti region in one photo - vineyards, olive groves, medieval towns.
10. Every time I open a bottle of Chianti, I will remember the malachite spills of the hills and the vineyards that go into the distance. These trips to understand wine do more than all the classes and tastings put together.
12. Do you know why roses are planted in vineyards? Not so much for beauty, but for good: they are much more sensitive to disease than the vine. If the roses are not doing very well, the winemaker understands that something has gone wrong, and therefore has the opportunity to correct the situation.
16. This is the view from the terrace of the house in the winery Tenuta di Bibbiano where I stayed. One morning in these thickets I saw a deer! A story about the farm and its wines is ahead.
18. The first signs of autumn. The trip took place at the end of September, the weather was summer, and therefore little reminded of the approach of the yellow-orange pore. Now in Tuscany, I think it is a million times more beautiful!
19. At the end of September, the wine festival Vino al Vino takes place in the town of Panzano in Chianti, which I could not help but drop by! The photo shows the moment when you can no longer hold the glass with your hands, you have to help yourself with your feet. ;)
20. How does the festival work? For 16 euros you get a glass and a bag for it, which you saw in the previous photo, a booklet with a story about the producers and a list of wines available for order. Arm yourself with a pen and start walking from booth to booth, trying and making notes.
21. Each winemaker presents a full line - this is usually 4-5 wines. You can taste the wines of all participants, I think, during the three days that the festival lasts. If time is short, then you can take a short cut: for example, I decided not to try classic Chianti, but more interesting and usually more expensive samples. I didn’t buy anything - they still sell wine only for 6 bottles.
22. Winemakers, as you can see, are advanced - they use drop stops (drip eliminators). I talked about them in. The cockerel on the neck is a symbol of the consortium of Chianti Classico producers, we will return to it in a separate post.
24. Wine critics look like this.
25. And their future readers - so.
26. The festival is, of course, the right place to get acquainted with local products.
27. For the first time in my life I came across a pie with grapes! The traditional Chianti dish is called schiaccia con l "uva, schiaccia con l "uva. I tried both options, the one with dark and fresh grapes I liked more, although the most delicious was the schiaccia I ate a few days before in Castellina in Chianti. I will tell you more about this lovely town and its gastronomic traditions. I think you understand that we have more than one post ahead of us dedicated to the Chianti region, its wines and gastronomy.
29. Here, in Panzano, is the restaurant of the star butcher Dario Cecchini. Unfortunately, during the trip, I was a little behind schedule and didn’t get there, despite the reservation. I've heard great reviews from friends! Been there?
30. I quickly ran away from the festival - Panzano is a tiny town, the pavilions of winemakers occupied one of its miniature squares. It was inconvenient to push around with a glass in hand and with a camera at the ready, therefore, in order to get acquainted with wine, it was decided to go further, to Greve in Chianti. If you follow my route, don't miss this place, Antica Macelleria Falorni.
31. A good choice wines both by glass and by bottle, sensible snacks, excellent tartars and other meat dishes - I was satisfied. sit on central square and it was very pleasant to stare around, despite the almost complete absence of Italians in the environment. And this, perhaps, is one of the main features of Chianti - it's just incredible, unthinkable tourist destination. Even in remote villages there is an English menu! And even in remote restaurants found somewhere along the road, you will certainly stumble upon a company of American tourists. I have been to many places in Italy, but nowhere, except, perhaps, in Rome, I have not seen so many tourists.
32. The more southern part of Tuscany, where I was in July, seemed to me a more authentic place, where you can feel the rhythm of Italian life, its unhurried course, where the signs of life or the quirks of the locals are in plain sight, and not hidden behind tourist options. Therefore, if you go to Tuscany, I advise you not to stop only in Chianti, but also to go further towards Rome, for idyllic rural landscapes, for towns like, where you are almost the only tourist, for.
33. And again, the black rooster is a symbol of Chianti Classico producers.
35. In Greve in Chianti, I met my reader (how small the world is!), on whose advice I drove to the village of Montefioralle located just above. Such villages in Italy are called borgo. It seems that the course of life has stopped here - these streets look exactly the same as they looked hundreds of years ago. And only the muttering of the TV, suddenly heard from the half-open window, brings you back to reality.
37. In Montefioralle I met a gang of cheese lovers with truffles. Even cats in Chianti - and those gourmets!
39. But I accidentally woke up this child - he was sleeping in the sun near wine barrel in Panzano. That very moment when they picked you up and forgot to wake you up.
In the following posts, we will visit two wineries that are completely different from each other, walk through the Saturday market, understand the intricacies of Chianti production and visit the most beautiful Tuscan house worthy of publication in Architectural Digest.
Let's talk about amazing journey in northern Tuscany, in the Chianti valley, in the blessed land of winemakers. Olive groves, vineyards, emerald grass hills, ancient fortresses and castles - these are the rich surroundings of Florence - the main city of the Renaissance. Cities where the Medici ruled, where Michelangello and Leonardo lived and worked. So, a trip to Tuscany.
Coat of arms of Florence
Let's start with the capital. As you might have guessed, Florence is my favorite city. He is unique and wonderful.
The coat of arms of Florence depicts a scarlet iris. For more than 50 years, every year, gardeners throughout Tuscany, other regions and countries have been holding a festival-competition for growing such scarlet iris. And so far ... yes, yes, no one has managed to grow this flower of pure scarlet color. Like this…)
The main attractions are within walking distance. And if we arrived by train - and we plan to travel further by train - then better place can't think of a place to live.
A list of the main attractions can be found in any guide to Florence.
Florence. Duomo. Santa Maria del Fiorre
Of course, this is, first of all, the largest and most amazing Duomo ( Cathedral) Santa Maria del Fiorre. It is huge, very beautiful, trimmed with green stone, has a dome structure unique for its time, chic outside as well as inside. Next to it, made in the same style, the Baptistery of San Giovanni, in which all the babies of Florence were baptized. Unique gilded gates. Also nearby is Giotto's bell tower, also part of this complex and decorated with the same green stone. Briefly speaking, must see.
Signoria Square. Loggia Lanza
Not far from it is a very picturesque Signoria Square, on which stands the building of the palace of the Palazzo Vecchio, in which the city council met. On the square, under open sky, statues of famous and not so famous masters are placed. There are especially many of them in the loggia of Lanza. Very beautiful, there is even a copy of David (the original is presented in the Museum of the Academy - nearby). The place is very soulful, imbued with an atmosphere of art and, in my opinion, is the personification of the whole of Florence - the city of craftsmen, artists and artisans. In the evenings on weekends, all kinds of concerts take place on the square. On ordinary days it is also very crowded, a lot of young people. Lots of street musicians. The atmosphere is very romantic. Must watch.
Uffizi Gallery.
Nearby is located Uffizi Gallery- the famous museum, which is included in the mandatory program for tourists to see and is one of the most visited museums in the world. Indeed, there is something to see for lovers of painting, tapestries, frescoes, sculptures and miniatures. The luxury and wealth of the Renaissance is represented by the wonderful works of the great masters. A must watch for art loversseriously.
David. Michelangelo. Academy Museum. Florence
Also for art lovers it is recommended to visit academy museum, which is located near Santa Maria del Fiorre. The Academy of Fine Arts of Florence, which is almost 500 years old, united all the art schools and workshops of the city and was the most authoritative educational institution. This wonderful museum is also one of the most visited museums in the world. The mere fact that the original “David” by Michelangelo is presented there allows us to consider it must visit. The collections of this museum are considered among the most valuable in Italy - a country by no means poor in museums.
Ponte Vecchio
Walking from Piazza della Signoria past the Uffizi Gallery, we find ourselves on the Arno embankment. Look to the right and see the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge. It is very unusual and resembles the bridge from the movie "Perfume". It houses mainly jewelry stores. Be sure to take pictures.
Central Market (Mercato Centrale)
Also a must visit Mercato Centrale(central market), which sells exceptionally delicious cheeses, prosciutto and other yummy. Fruits, vegetables, deli meats. Try it for sure. And of course, Chianti. Be sure to buy a bottle or two and taste in the evening. I should note that if you are not a great specialist, not a gourmet and not a sommelier, then Chianti for about 10-12 euros, in my opinion and taste, is in no way inferior, for example, Brunello di Montalcino, the most popular wine in Tuscany, the cost of which starts from about forty euros.
The bags are pretty bad
Not far from the central market are located malls, where, in addition to the usual tourist tinsel, magnets, figurines, souvenirs, T-shirts, you can buy very good leather goods for a reasonable price: bags, belts, shoes, locally produced clothes. Women must visit. Sorry guys...) There you can sit down in a street cafe nearby and join the Chianti. Icy Chianti on a hot summer day…beauty.
The basilicas of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella are interesting for their Gothic features, decoration and, of course, interior decoration. For lovers it will be very interesting visit these ancient shrines. In Santa Maria Novella (near the central station, which got its name from this basilica), the action of Boccaccio's Decameron began.
Boboli Gardens. Florence
After walking around the city, having examined its countless basilicas, cathedrals and palaces, look into Boboli Gardens- a masterpiece of Florentine garden art, with shaded paths, lakes, amazingly beautiful grottoes, sculptures by great masters, benches near the water. Birdsong, clean air and the panorama of the city from the top of the hill will not leave you indifferent.
Grotto Buanaleti. Boboli Gardens. Florence
Located next to Palazzo Pitti, the residence of Duke Cosimo I of Medici, who did a lot to strengthen the greatness and glory of Florence, the gardens have been a favorite place for all kinds of receptions and concerts for hundreds of years. It was here that opera singing was first presented, various exhibitions and festivals were held. Make such a gift to your feet, weary of walking along the great streets of the great city and your soul enthusiastically frozen from touching the beautiful - organize a picnic in this blessed park.
Cool and breezy in the hills of the Boboli Gardens
Sitting on a bench or on the grass, you can have a bite to eat, discuss what you have seen and make plans for the coming days in this wonderful country. The sale of food and drinks in the park is prohibited, so take everything you need with you))). I think that visiting the Boboli Gardens and a little take a break - for sure!
And be sure to go to Michelangelo hill. It offers a breathtaking view of the city. Of course, the majestic dome of the Duomo dominates the panorama, and the Ponte Vecchio is perfectly visible. In the center of the pizzale (small square) by Michelangelo stands another copy of David. There are always a lot of people there. Florentine weddings come there. There are several restaurants there. I recommend arriving an hour before sunset. Take a table overlooking the city and enjoy Italian cuisine, live music and views of the a beautiful city. Must see and take pictures.
Hill of Michelangelo. Sunset
Florence – amazing city, and if you get there in good company and in good weather, I guarantee that he will remain in your heart forever. Well, for lovers of tasty and healthy food, I hasten to inform you that the Florentine steak is incomparable !!! (for those who like medium…and weaker roast).
Yes ... I almost forgot, in Florence the house in which Dante lived and worked was preserved. we somehow came across it while walking along the narrow central streets. Well home. Well, Dante Alighieri lived in it. Almost 500 years ago. Well, in general, ... here. I don’t know if the ardent admirers of the work of this respected Florentine, who created the Divine Comedy, are reading me, but I was not at all interested in visiting his house-museum. If anyone is interested, it's there.)
Traveling in Tuscany
Of course, this ancient land is famous not only for the beautiful Florence. Tuscany, and in particular northern Tuscany, is very rich in tourist and not so tourist attractions, castles, ancient towns, distilleries and oil mills, places that are interesting and pleasant to visit.
Not far from Stazzione Centrale (we already know what it is -Central station) you can order several Russian-language tours of the most picturesque surroundings of Florence. in Northern and Southern Tuscany, with a visit to the famous villages of Montalcino and Montepulciano - the centers of winemaking in Tuscany.
I recommend take one of these excursions only if if it is not possible to rent a car(at least for a day) or you don’t like to read guidebooks (. If these restrictions are not about you, then I consider it mandatory to rent a car (pre-booked - about the subtleties) and enjoy the trip along the following route (for example):
Florence-San Gimignano-Monteriggioni-Siena-Volterra-Pisa-Lucca-Florence
This trip must be organized as a two-day trip, with leisurely transfers, lunches and dinners, and an overnight stay, for example, in Siena or Volterra. And in no case, do not try to cover all these wonderful cities in one day. Otherwise, it will turn out no better than on a bus with a yelling and always urging guide ...
Our route does not claim to be exclusive and is only given as an illustration of the idea of conquering the Chianti Valley and Tuscany by car.
We have no doubt that the route that you yourself will make will be the most picturesque, interesting and memorable. That is why we are writing to you about Italy. Yes Yes
San Gimignano
Tuscany. San Gimignano. the city of the Hundred Towers.
For a leisurely tour of the city with a light snack and the purchase of souvenirs - 1 hour.
In fact, 14 towers of this Tuscan Manhattan have been preserved, in my opinion. Previously, there were many more of them, they were built by noble residents. The higher the tower, the steeper. Measured, in short. A very unique town. It stands on a hill, like almost all the towns of Tuscany. This is due to the fact that before they attacked each other like crazy several times a year. Siena, Volterra, Florence - big cities-states sought to seize as much land as possible and fought each other for influence. Therefore, they tried to build cities on hills, so that it would be more convenient to repel numerous attacks of villains from the fortress walls.
Vernaccio, typical of San Gimignano, is a must-try for lovers of dry white. they say it is incomparable and admired by many famous people. Even Louis the Black and Lorenzo the Magnificent (to be honest, who they are - I don’t know)
At the entrance to San Gimignano, you should definitely stop and take a picture with the general plan of San Gimignano. Only from afar is it possible to convey the flavor of this amazing place. Inside the city, of course, it will not be possible to photograph all the towers at once.
If you are traveling by bus, ask the guide to make such a stop, but he will probably offer it himself.
Monteriggioni
Tuscany. Monteriggioni
For a leisurely tour of the city with coffee on main square and the purchase of souvenirs - 20 min.
One of the few completely preserved fortresses in Tuscany, with all residential and utility buildings, a church and several restaurants and cafes. The spirit of the Middle Ages permeates everything here through and through. Very unusual and memorable place. 14 almost completely preserved towers on the fortress walls excite the imagination of tourists. Even Dante was fascinated and impressed by these walls and mentioned them in his poems, so to speak. I think it's a must to visit here.
Sienna
Piazza del Campo. Sienna
For a leisurely tour of the city center - 1-1.5 hours.
Amazing city, amazing people, customs. legends. Read more about it before you go. I personally have never seen or heard of such a city anywhere else. The whole city, all its inhabitants, young and old, live in anticipation of the races. They are called Palio and are held on the main square of the city - Piazza del Campo. This is the main event in the life of any resident of Siena. Races are held twice a year, and, during the rest of the time, all people are preparing to participate in these most important competitions of “their” horse.
Flag of the Contrada Dragon. Sienna
The city is divided into seventeen so-called contrades - groups, "families", districts - I don't know how to call them correctly. Each has its own coat of arms, its own customs, one might even say its own culture. It is not that they are at enmity with each other, but it is difficult to call their relationship friendship. Tough rivalry, probably so correct. Reaching up to the fact that marriages between representatives of different contrades are categorically not welcome.
Blessing of the rider and steed before the race
As I said, all the inhabitants of Siena are constantly preparing for the Palio. It is for them a matter of honor - the meaning of life. They raise money to raise, feed and train their horse and rider with all the contrada. They prepare for the races, sew clothes, flags, compose chants, in short they wait and hope for the victory of their own horse. And before the race, the horse and rider - these future heroes, and perhaps quite the opposite, even receive a blessing in the main parish of their contrada!
Sienna. Piazza del Campo. Palio
The race itself is very fleeting, but very colorful and dynamic. In total, you need to jump three circles around the area. It is only 1 kilometer and takes no more than one and a half to two minutes. But how much passion, fire, excitement and drama are in these seconds. Sometimes, in the heat of the chase, riders fall from their mounts and get very seriously injured. But this only adds fire to an already very “explosive” competition. After the races, festive processions are held throughout the city, praising the winners.
Sienna. Piazza del Campo. The whole city gathered in the square
The most shameful is to take second place. The rider who came second, along with an innocent animal, are ridiculed, sometimes very harshly. Until the next race, this contrada becomes an outcast. But this fact cannot break the proud inhabitants of Siena and they approach the new Palio with a new horse, a new rider and new hopes for victory! And this has been going on for more than 400 years and will continue forever. The inhabitants of glorious Siena are sure of this).
Very unusual, colorful and interesting city. And if you are lucky enough to visit it on July 2 or August 16 - do not apply to visit this amazing sight. Palio in Piazza del Campo.
We will be glad to comments, questions and ratings)))!
4.5 / 5 ( 37 votes)
February 16, 2015 2:24 pm Greve in Chianti - Italy February 2014
We travel abroad by public transport. Somehow I'm afraid to mess with a rental car. I don't drive myself. The daughter steers quite confidently, but this is in the vastness of Israel, but in other people's open spaces ... In short, I'm afraid and that's it.
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And if visiting large cities, an individual does not really need this car, then in order to travel to the expanses of suburban and suburban personal transport is necessary. This need is especially felt if you are in such a region replicated by its beauties as Tuscany. And where should the poor tourist go? That's right - book a private tour. Pleasure is not cheap, but fortunately, I did not regret it for a second.
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Our lovely guide, Elite, met us in the lobby of the hotel, put us in the car, and we set off under a measured drop of rain, which decided to spoil our pleasure. But from this gray veil of rain, on the contrary, for some reason it became very comfortable and humbly. You know, when peace descends on the soul, and she, wrapped in this peace, like a fog, without excessive zeal, but with sincere curiosity, watches what is happening.
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A gray day, under a rainy drizzle, could be mistaken for autumn, if it were not for the almonds blooming in early February. The smell of preli, the sloping wet slopes, evoked thoughts of the November hunt for wild boars, which the locals love to indulge in, or at least picking mushrooms in the predawn morning.
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The elite drove the car carefully and confidently along the wet road, rising uphill, where the first stop at the Verrazzano castle was waiting for us at an altitude of 348 meters. (You can get to the castle on your own from the Florence bus station (located in Piazza Santa Maria Novella at railway station) by intercity bus number 365 (about 1 hour on the way).
Built as a fortress during the Lombard era (the name of this place was first mentioned in 1170 in a manuscript preserved in the abbey of Passignano), in the 13th century it was transformed into the so-called “signor’s house”. And in the XVI century it turned into a classic villa with a typical Tuscan farm, surrounded by a beautiful garden. And these lands belong to the family, already, from the 7th century.
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But the family recently sold the castle. I don't know who. We didn’t manage to enter the house, because the next day we were waiting for the arrival of the new owner, either for a name day, or for my daughter’s birthday. And so out of season they even let you inside. But we didn't succeed.
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But it was completely free to look around and admire the neighboring castle of Vicchiomaggio and the vineyards, stretching like a fan right up to the forest estates. And in this castle lived none other than Mona Lisa Gherardini. It is believed that it was she who posed for one of the most famous paintings by Leonardo da Vinci. The incomparable landscapes of Tuscany served as a background for the image of the beautiful and mysterious Mona Lisa.
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And then we had a tasting, and absolutely free! We liked the wine. And I liked the youngest, two-year-old. We ate this splendor with bread and olive oil. And it's even hard to say what I liked more - wine or oil. Tart with bitterness, the smell of beveled mint, chrysolite gold, it spread over the bread crumb. We bought them there, without further ado.
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Yes, they also sell wine vinegar. Its consistency is more like liquid marmalade. And it tastes sweet with a hint of wine. It ripens 8!!! years in oak barrels. And by the end of the 8th year, the volume decreases by more than 2 times.
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It was here that the famous navigator Giovanni da Verrazzano was born in 1485. Served Giovaniya, however, the French crown. He was the first European to explore the lands of the eastern coast of the Atlantic, reached New York Bay and Naragansset Bay. In New York, a bridge is named after him, which connects Brooklyn and Staten Island.
The sailor's death remains a mystery. According to one version, he was killed and eaten by tribes of cannibals from Antilles. According to another, he was captured by the Spaniards and hanged as a pirate in Cadiz. But his countrymen remember and honor him. In the neighboring town of Greve in Chianti, where we went after the castle, a monument was erected to him.
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Of course, we went to this Tuscan town not for the sake of a monument to the navigator, but for the sake of tasting local cellars. Imagine our surprise when it turned out that the tasting room was closed. In fairness, it should be said that on the street of the town there was not only not a single tourist, even locals hiding somewhere.
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Greve, in fact, is a commune with a population of about 14 thousand people. The town is tiny, but the buildings there are very old XIV-XV centuries. In 1325, Greve was completely burned down and literally reborn from the ashes. It took almost a century to restore it, but now it is considered one of the main cities of the valley.
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On the main square of the city, an unusual triangular shape, rises the Church of Santa Croce, it is on the sharp top of the triangle. And on obtuse corners there are statues of the aforementioned navigator and such a cupbearer god, which is more like a quartered lover.
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As one of my friends said: "I fell in love!"
Despite its microscopic size, Greve in Chianti is the capital of the valley, symbolized by this lively black cockerel.
According to one legend, in the 13th century, Siena and Florence had armed disputes over their borders (in the end, the Florentine Republic absorbed Siena). And so it was decided, at dawn, with the first cock crow, to send messengers from each city, and through the point where they intersect, to draw new borders. And while the well-fed, white and fluffy Siena cockerel slept soundly, the Florentine messenger had already set off, thanks to the premature cry of a black rooster, who roared with a good obscenity, when it had not even dawned yet, because on the evening before he had not been fed. It was this bird, and it was for these merits, that they first placed on the flag of the Military League of Chianti Classico, and later on the labels of bottles of famous wine.
But besides wine, the valley is also famous for its pigs, from which all sorts of delicacies are made. These pigs are the product of selection of a restless person, but in this case, the good news is that the crossing took place naturally, and not with the help of genetic engineering. So, a domestic pink pig was crossed with a wild free boar guy, and the Sinta Sinese breed turned out. We bought sausages of different varieties to the eyeballs of a suitcase. It was delicious.
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For the next famous product produced in the Chianti Valley, namely the Florentine steak, we went to the nearby village of Panzano to visit the famous butcher Dario Cecchini.
When an epidemic of mad cow disease swept through Europe, the Florentine steak was banned in Italy, since the causative agent of rabies was first found in the animal's spine. At this tragic moment for all the butchers of Italy - Dario arranged a "bistecchi funeral", he was shown on all Italian television channels and he immediately became famous.
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This steak, Florentine in the sense, is made from local Chianina cows.
To be honest, we did not order a kilogram steak for each nose (one for two is not allowed, the policy of the institution). My pancreas is not someone else's, it will not endure such excesses, and I do not like to throw away food. Ordered two deli meats and one, like, hamburger. First time eating raw meat. I thought a terrible thing would happen, but nothing, the body did not protest either during the process of absorbing the evidence, or afterwards. True tasty, but not a masterpiece, again.
We sat and chatted about life with the Elite. We drank, we ate, we paid. I like it. A kind of local Tuscan popular flavor. Not true, it was good.
And the end point of our journey was the famous city-commune of San Gimignano. I was already in it, but my daughter was not. My first visit happened at the peak tourist season, when tourists rushed in swarms along the two streets of this fortified city, spinning around 14 medieval skyscraper towers with a Brownian movement.
Traveling through the Chianti Valley and Siena in September is a great trip to historical area Tuscany.
Tuscan travel prices and options
- VISA TO ITALY — with delivery
- WHEN -
- TRAVEL INSURANCE ITALY —
- HOW TO GET THERE - the capital of the historical Italian province of Tuscany - Florence, it is there that the a / port is located, the area is entangled in bus routes and railway lines. There is also an international airport in Pisa, from which you can always get to Florence in an hour.
- AIR TICKETS TO TUSCANY —
- TRANSFER -
- TRAIN TO TUSCANY - yes
- BUS TICKETS —
- TRANSPORT - while exploring the original towns of Siena and Chianti, you can walk on foot or use public transport, to get acquainted with all the sights of the region, it is still more convenient to rent a car.
- CAR FOR RENT —
- FELLOW TRAVELERS - to Siena and Chianti
- WEATHER - The climate of Tuscany is rather mild, it is warm here in September, and the average daytime air temperature rarely drops below +24 ... 25 ° С.
- WHERE TO VISIT - Florence, Radda in Chianti, Badia a Coltibuono, Greve in Chianti, Siena, Collegiate, San Gimignano, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Agostino.
- EXCURSIONS - in Greve, Gaioli, Florence, Siena, Radda.
- ACCOMMODATION AND CATERING - While vacationing in Siena and Chianti, you can choose a cozy tiny hotel in the cities of Siena, San Gimignano, or in Greve in Chianti, accommodation is possible in picturesque rural guest houses-estates. There are many Italian restaurants open in Chianti, where you can get acquainted with the national Tuscan cuisine.
- GUIDES - .
- HOTELS -, or.
The luxury of Tuscany - the provinces of Chianti and Siena
You can explore the original corners of the Chianti region, explore the surroundings of Radda (formerly the former capital of the League of Chianti Cities), there is a medieval abbey called Badia a Coltibuono nearby, and in the evening it is better to leave for Siena and dine in a restaurant on Piazza del Campo.
Day 4-5 – Siena
Walk through ancient Siena, see the Palazzo Publico, the Duomo, the Metropolitan Museum and the Civico Museum. On the fifth day, visit the Pinacoteca in Siena, see the interiors of the church of Santa Catarina, and then go to the ruins of the medieval abbey of San Galliano.
Day 6-7 - Collegiate, San Gimignano, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Agostino
On the way back to Florence, visit the charming towns of San Gimignano, Collegiate, Montalcino, San Agostino, Montepulciano, Tuscan villages, admire the vineyards. , then you can spend the night halfway and in the morning continue your trip through Tuscany.
Upon returning to Florence, our journey through the Chianti Valley and Siena ended. We didn’t see much in Tuscany, so maybe we’ll come back again. New travels to you!
Siena (Siena) - Chiantigiana (Chiantigiana) - Firenze (Florence) - 70 km + 0 euro
It's time to say goodbye to Siena. We never saw our Dionisio again. They left him a farewell note with gratitude and the keys on the table. The door was slammed shut.
Then our path lay in Florence, but not along the highway, but along one of the most beautiful roads Chiantijana. On the map she has №222
. The plans were to visit a couple of towns along the way and, of course, wineries fattorie and buy a real Chianti Gallo Nero.
It makes no sense to talk about the beauty of this road. Some sources say that this is the most beautiful road at least Italy and even Europe. I'm not ready to agree with this, there are more beautiful. But the fact that she has a unique charm is undeniable.
After about 26 km from Siena, we stopped at a picturesque town Castellina-in-Chianti (Castellina-in-Chianti). We walked along the covered passage Via delle Volte. It is small but charming, with many museums, designer shops and leather shops.
From the transition went to the city center. 
In the center of the city there is a magnificent restored castle. Restored so much that its antiquity is not felt. 
Local wine and olive oil are sold on every corner, for example Bottega del Vino Gallo Nero (Via della Roca 10).
But we decided not to buy anything in the cities, we wanted to get as close to natural as possible, that is, we decided to call in some kind of farm. There were a lot of signs along the way. "VenditaDiretta"(direct sales). On one such we turned. For quite a long time we drove along a terribly dusty country road among the fields and already doubted that we would meet at least some kind of civilization. And, finally, we unexpectedly arrived at some small village and a rather pleasant building, where we understood the sales department of the farm Santo Stefano. We were greeted by a friendly young girl and a man. They told us about their wine, gave everything to taste, including olive oil, for which they served slices of delicious bread. 
Of course, we gladly bought both Chianti and white wine and oil. By the way, the Russians have not wandered to them yet. They say that mostly French, British and Germans come.
Then we drove into Greve-in-Chianti. There is a wine festival here. Somehow the town was not impressed and we drove further to the castle Verrazzano (Castello di Verrazzanj), which is 4 km from Greve in Chianti. The castle also sells local wines and olive oil. The castle itself can be reached only with a guided tour and at a certain time. We took a picture of it from behind bars, wandered around and admired magnificent views Tuscan hills. 
not reaching Strada-in-Chianti there is also a castle Castello di Mugnana, the best preserved medieval castle, around which there are also a lot of fattorie, but we didn’t stop by there, but turned into another farm Tenuta Poggio ai Mandorli.
Auntie met us, took us to the cellar, listed the wines and offered to try one of them, and it was impossible to try expensive wines (more than 10 euros). We were surprised by this situation, but since we were not going to go anywhere else, we bought a couple of bottles from her. But among themselves they called her a greedy aunt. Apparently, the proximity to Florence had an effect, and she was not at all surprised by the Russian visitors, she says that they often stop by. That's where the dog is buried! They must have tasted her well.
From this farm we went straight to Florence. I must say that on this day, despite the short run, we completely got out of time schedule and arrived in Florence in the evening, closer to 5 pm.
We immediately went to piazzale michelangelo, which offers a beautiful view of the city with the bulk of the Duomo and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio, the Arno River with a series of bridges, including the Ponte Vecchio. 
There is a huge free parking lot on the square, a lot of cars. And it was still very hot 41 degrees! In an open area on a hill, it is unbearable heat. 
The time was approaching in the evening, it was necessary to settle. We booked a hotel "Hotel City" (Via Sant "Antonio, 18), which is located in a very convenient location, near the railway station, the Medici Chapels, a few steps from the Duomo. Reviews about the hotel were great, which was confirmed in reality. A cozy homely suite of two rooms, with air conditioning, windows to a quiet courtyard, an excellent bathroom with everything you need, a good breakfast and wonderful staff cost us 185 euros per night + 3 euros / person tourist tax. Parking is paid, the hotel has its own parking places at the station, it costs 25 euros / day, you can leave and check in as many times as you like. For the center of Florence during the peak season, this is normal. And for us, exhausted by the Siena Palio, everything seemed like paradise.
But we had to get to the hotel. It was complicated. All the time they got on ZTL. They circled, circled, spat and drove into the zone, parked not far from the hotel. But it turned out everything was fine. They brought us to some base and said that since we live here, we will not be fined. And so it turned out later.
We quickly settled in and went for a walk. Since Katya and Victor had already been in Florence the day before, we each scattered in our own direction.
First I went to Churches of Santa Maria Novella which was designed and built by Dominican friars. Completely work on the construction of the church ended in the second half of the XIV century. The marble facade of the church by Leon Battista Alberti appeared in 1456-1470.
The most interesting detail in the interior of the church are the pylons in the form of a bunch of columns, on which lancet arched vaults rest. In the Church of Santa Maria Novella, a large number of works of Florentine art of the XIV-XVI centuries by Vasari, Ghirlandaio, Brunelleschi, Giuliano da Sangallo, Ghiberti and other masters. 
From this church I went to the Duomo Cathedral - Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
I immediately bought a ticket to Baptistery of John the Baptist for 5 euros to see the famous dome of the Byzantine mosaic of the 13th century and the no less famous doors, the panels of which were created by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti according to biblical scenes. 
After that I went for a walk. How to describe your feelings that arose as a result of the walk? And I had a feeling of confusion. I wandered the streets and realized that I was confused and ... depressed. For the first time, the city did not let me into its soul. As if the city has its own protective shell, and I am behind it outside. I sat down on the steps near some building and wanted to cry, and even better - go home. Through the force, she went a couple more steps and met with Katya and Viktor. We walked until dark, but the feeling that you were a stranger did not disappear. Katya gave a good definition to Florence: Florence is a block. 
The next day, for 12 days, we bought tickets to the Uffizi Gallery. Bought in advance through the site for 11 euros + 4 euros reservation. Therefore, in the morning I had to definitely climb the dome of the Duomo, visit the Duomo itself, then get ready, load my things into the car and run to the gallery.
In the morning the streets were still deserted, but there was already a long line at the entrance to the dome, which was moving quite quickly. The ticket cost 8 euros. 
In order to enter the cathedral itself, you need to go down from the dome, go outside and stand in line again. There is no need to be afraid of the queue, it moves quickly. The entrance is free.
The dimensions of the Duomo are amazing: 153 meters long and 90 meters wide. Today, Santa Maria del Fiori is the fourth largest cathedral in the world, second only to St. Peter's in the Vatican, St. Paul's in London and the Duomo of Milan.
The Cathedral has a museum that stores two priceless paintings - "Lamentation of Christ" by Michelangelo and "Mary Magdalene" by Donatello.
Despite the huge number of people in the cathedral, I still received great pleasure and examined it with interest. 
We quickly checked out of the hotel and walked to the Uffizi Gallery. Walking along Via De' Tornabuoni, we looked into the church, which is located at the intersection with the street Via degli Agli. We noticed this church in the evening, but it was closed. Why she attracted our attention, I don’t know, she didn’t differ in anything outwardly remarkable. Moreover, it is bypassed by guidebooks and on tourist maps at best, it is simply marked with a cross without a name. So we went into it without knowing the name. Now I already know what it is Church of Saints Michael and Gaetano. Church of the 16th century. We were struck by the interior decoration with the use of magnificent textiles, as it turned out, the 18th century.
I highly recommend visiting her. It was only here that I felt that Florence had slightly opened its door for me. 
In the gallery, as warned, there was a huge queue. But for those who have tickets paid for, there is a separate entrance, completely without a queue. We spent 3 hours in the gallery. Among the treasures kept in the Uffizi Gallery are masterpieces by Giotto, Caravaggio, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci, Rubens, Perugdio. Only in this Florentine museum can you see the famous work of Michelangelo depicting the Holy Family, as well as the works of Raphael, the Adoration of the Magi by Gentile da Fabiano, the Birth of Venus and Spring by Botticelli. The best works of the greatest masters of the Renaissance - that's what the Uffizi Gallery is today. We saw all this, trying with all our might not to fall into a stupor from culture shock.
From the windows of the gallery also open beautiful views on the river Arno and Ponte Vecchio, there are places to stay. 
So ended the first acquaintance with Florence. I concluded for myself that Florence is one of the cities that must be viewed from the inside, where interesting architecture but the main treasures are inside museums, cathedrals, galleries.
