The highest peaks of the six parts of the world, great ambitions and dramatic climbing stories

seven peaks

The highest peaks of the six parts of the world,
big ambitions and dramatic
climbing stories

Seven peaks - these words are like a spell for those who are in love with the mountains. When climbers hear these sounds, a craving for travel and a thirst for risk is born in their heart, understandable only to those who have been brought thousands of meters above sea level. The geographical conditionality that played a role in their selection has not bothered anyone for a long time. People quit their jobs, destroy marriages, risk their health and life - all in order to conquer the highest points of all continents. Today we will plunge into the magic of the Seven Peaks Club and remember the legendary peaks that have taken so many lives and given so much glory.

Like any great idea, the distribution of the seven peaks between the continents is the subject of much controversy. Let us outline only two main stumbling blocks. The first is directly connected with Russia: if we draw the border between Europe and Asia along the Urals, Elbrus (5642 m) will be the highest point in Europe, but if we consider that beyond the threshold of Russia there are solid bears and many-sided Mongols, Mont Blanc (4810 m) will enter the Seven Peaks. The second dispute concerns Australia and the moment whether to consider Oceania as part of this continent. In the first case, the highest point of mainland Australia will be Mount Kosciuszko (2228 m), in the second case, the main peak of Oceania, Jaya (4884 m), in Indonesia. We, confirming the reputation of the magazine without disputes and politics, will tell you the story of each applicant mountain without exception. And we recall that most of the generally recognized programs still include Elbrus and Jaya.

Asia: Everest (8848 m)

“The mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sikdar was the first to measure the height of this mountain in 1852 on the basis of trigonometric calculations”

Chomolungma, Sagarmatha, Everest - all these are the names given to the roof of the world by a tribe of small ants. This mountain is located on the territory of the Kingdom of Nepal in the heart of the Himalayas. Everest, towering 8848 meters above the planet, blown by storm winds and severely collecting bloody tribute from climbers, has been beckoning with its inaccessibility and madness of the idea - to visit the main peak of the planet - for almost a hundred years now. The mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sikdar was the first to measure the height of this mountain in 1852 on the basis of trigonometric calculations - while he was in India, 240 kilometers from the mountain itself. The exact height (8848 meters) was determined using theodolites in the 1950s.

Prior to Sir Edmund Hillary's first ascent in 1953, there were over 50 attempted ascents; as you might guess, few of the travelers met an enviable fate. After the first ascent, the world was engulfed in fever - the first ascent without oxygen, the first woman on Chomolungma, the first man without legs, the first child ... Believers Sherpas believe that numerous commercial expeditions desecrate sacred mountain, revered among the local peoples as a goddess. If so, Chomolungma does not remain in debt: in terms of mortality, this mountain is not the bloodiest in the Himalayas, but in terms of mass and terrible details of the death of expeditions, it definitely takes first place. Be that as it may, without climbing Everest, the quest of the Seven Peaks cannot be considered complete, and many climbers leave this tidbit for last.

South America: Aconcagua (6962 m)

Aconcagua - great mountain in the lands of the Quechua Indians on the territory of modern Argentina, which is the highest point not only South America, but also the southern and western hemispheres of our planet. In Quechua, its name means "stone guard". Technically, Aconcagua can be called a simple mountain, provided that the ascent is made along the usual route from the north. This peak is considered the easiest "non-climbing" mountain: when climbing the mentioned path, neither ice axes, nor railings, nor crampons are needed. This is probably why the second largest base camp after Everest is located here - the so-called "Mule Square", Plaza de Mulas, at an altitude of 4370 meters. However, despite the apparent accessibility of Aconcagua, mountain sickness here, at an altitude of almost 7 thousand kilometers, does not spare those who are at ease with acclimatization. The piercing cold and bad weather reigning at the summit do not spare the guests of the Quechua lands: frostbite is one of the most common injuries among unprepared travelers. If the climber is chasing technique and the complexity of the route, you can climb Aconcagua from the south - this is the most difficult and dangerous of the climbs available here.

North America: Denali (6190 m)

"The mountain was first climbed by Reverend Hudson Stack in 1913"

If for some reason the name of this mountain seems unfamiliar to you, know that this is the very legendary McKinley Peak, the highest point in the United States, which has just returned to its original name given to it by the local Koyukon people. It is located in Alaska, and therefore, until 1867, Denali was the main peak of the Russian Empire: characteristically, the Russians called it simply " big mountain". McKinley is the surname of the 25th President of the United States. The mountain was first climbed by Reverend Hudson Stack in 1913. Given that Denali is located beyond the Arctic Circle, ascents are possible only in May-July, when the harsh northern weather and the polar day favor climbers. On this moment 20,000 travelers have already visited the highest peak in the United States, but according to statistics, only 50% get to the top - the icy slopes of Denali do not forgive mistakes and require excellent physical shape. Climbing Denali is often compared to climbing Everest - the temperature drops to -35 degrees, the Kahiltna glacier, through which the path goes, is sprinkled with snow, hiding huge cracks (therefore, this section has to be skied, dragging cargo), spending the night in tents among icy desert, and the steepness of individual sections reaches 45 degrees. national park Denali issues entry permits to protected area and is wary of guides from other countries - only locals are allowed to drive organized groups here.

Africa: Kilimanjaro (5895 m)

The highest potentially active stratovolcano in Africa, Kilimanjaro, is not a technically complex mountain, but proximity to the equator makes high-altitude acclimatization not so easy - going up, the traveler comes from the African heat to the very invigorating cold of the five-thousander (recall that at the top of the symbol of Tanzania lies a thick hat snow). The first westerners tried to conquer the summit in shorts and T-shirts (there is evidence of this in the book "Life, travel and work in East Africa" ​​by Charles New), and the porters were completely naked. But the expedition of German travelers led by Hans Meyer in 1889 turned out to be more prudent and still took Kilimanjaro. By the way, according to the census, their local guide Mzee Lauwo lived for more than 120 years and was still alive in 1996.

Climbing Kilimanjaro is now an important source of income for Tanzania's budget. Six routes lead to the summit, two of which (Marangu and Machame) are accessible to people without altitude experience and offer travelers accommodation in huts and organized camps. Registration for the track on these two roads is carried out at the very beginning of the path, the ascent takes from 5 to 7 days. In order not to catch mountain sickness, travelers often "train" on the nearby Meru volcano (4562 meters). IN last years around Kilimanjaro, the race of high-speed ascents is in full swing: the latest achievement belongs to the mountain guide Karl Igloff, who ran up and down the Umbwe route in 6 hours and 56 minutes.

Europe 1: Elbrus (5642 m)

"The double peak of Elbrus is a kind of national symbol of Russia"

An extinct volcano, located in the heart of the Caucasus, is the main center of attraction for climbers from central Russia. The double peak of Elbrus is a kind of national symbol, and even if you are not connected with mountaineering, this mountain has repeatedly flashed in the course of Russian history, at least within the framework of the chronicles of the Great Patriotic War- serious battles were fought for the strategic height. In the last decade, with the improvement of the situation in the region, there are more and more foreigners here.

The first ascent was made by scientists and travelers in July 1829 northern route. And until now, most of the ascents are made along this classical path from the other side of the mountain, where shelters and lifts are now located. Climbing Elbrus is a short epic compared to the same Denali (7-10 days versus 20). The infrastructure of the resort does not stand still: earlier there was only the old shelter "Bochki" on the mountain, and now at an altitude of 3900 meters the high-rise hotel LeapRus has been built using Italian technologies - places in it must be booked in advance, since its capacity is 40 people.

This summer, an additional line of lifts began to be built on the mountain, which will stretch up to 3847 meters and will facilitate the transfer of cargo to the mountain in the summer season. Despite the apparent simplicity of the peak, climbing Elbrus is strictly not recommended without an experienced guide: deep cracks in the glaciers and rapidly changing weather are increasingly collecting their bloody tribute from unprepared and lost climbers. With proper preparation, backcountry expeditions to the mountain are possible - you can go down both on a snowboard and on skiing. Climbing season - summer time, when there are more successful windows in the weather. A pleasant bonus to climbing Elbrus will be walking along the Elbrus region, where high-mountain meadows bloom and rare flowers are found.

Europe 2: Mont Blanc (4810 m)

The cradle of French mountaineering, Mont Blanc is a major tourist attraction on the border between France and Italy, where casual onlookers as well as experienced freeriders, alpinists and climbers meet. Around the mountain passes the famous a tourist route Tour du Mont Blanc, and at an altitude of 3842 meters (the neighboring peak of the Aiguille du Midi, where the cable car built in 1955 leads) is located Observation deck from where tourists admire the Mont Blanc massif. A little lower stretches a huge freeride field - White Valley - with the longest track in the vicinity of 22 kilometers, which partially goes along the body of the glacier. The first mention of climbing Mont Blanc dates back to August 1786 - then the Swiss geologist Benedict de Saussure even established a prize for the first person to think of conquering the great mountain.

The most high mountain The Alps attracts a huge number of tourists in the summer. Casting to the main route is carried out on a beautiful little train- the so-called Mont Blanc tram - to Ny d'Aigle, from where travelers go to spend the night in Guter's shelter and act on the mountain in the early morning. Despite the apparent gentleness of the slope, climbing Mont Blanc requires good physical fitness and experience with crampons and ice axes. The most unpleasant place on the route is the Grand Couloir - because of serious rockfalls, climbers have been maimed and killed here more than once. However, in the pursuit of the Seven Peaks, injuries have not stopped anyone yet.

Antarctica: Vinson Massif (4892 m)

The Vinson Massif is one of the most extraordinary points of the Seven Summits program. To start at least with the fact that these mountains were discovered only in 1957 from the side American aircraft. The difficulty of access to the massif adds to the cost of storming the Antarctic peaks - the cost of the expedition for our compatriots is from $40,000. Of course, this is not $ 60,000 that guides will have to pay for climbing Everest as part of a group, but at the current dollar rate, it is very likely that in order to combine these two peaks, you will have to part with a kidney. Perhaps that is why climbing the Vinson Massif is one of the elite entertainments. By the way, the pioneers of the mountain, a group of American scientists and climbers, were sponsored by the authorities and the US Army: as part of the expedition of 1966-67. Vinson Peak was climbed along the western ridge, which is still used in most ascents. The first passage along the eastern ridge was made only in 2001 - by the way, among the participants of the expedition was the same John Krakauer, the author of "Into the Wild" and "Into Thin Air".

Australia and Oceania: Jaya (4884 m)

Jaya (another name is the Karstensz pyramid) is located in the western part of the island New Guinea but belongs to Indonesia. Not far from this peak is the Grasberg high-altitude quarry, where gold, silver and copper are mined. The stone peaks of Jaya were first conquered by the same Heinrich Harrer, a repentant Wehrmacht soldier who spent seven years in Tibet, in 1962. And among the pioneers from the Russian expedition of the magazine "Around the World" in 1995 was the legendary. According to travelers, in the case of Jaya, it’s not so much the ascent that is exhausting, but the long and difficult climb to the base camp through the jungle with tropical rains and damp overnight stays. In addition, injured members of the expedition cannot be evacuated by helicopter, and local porters often go on strike during the expedition itself, demanding more money for their work. Climbing to the highest point requires practiced climbing skills.

Global warming has sadly affected the glaciers of Jaya and the surrounding mountains: they almost completely disappeared between 1939 and 1962, and the huge Meren glacier melted from 1994 to 2000. Every year, the ice cover in those places where it still remains is reduced by 7 meters.

Australia: Kosciuszko (2228 m)

“The Kosciuszko National Park is visited by up to 70,000 tourists a year, and approximately 30,000 of them take the pleasant four-hour walk to the top of the mountain.”

The last peak, sometimes referred to as the “Seven Summits”, is a kindergarten for experienced climbers, Mount Kosciuszko, first conquered in 1840 by the Polish traveler Pavel Strzelecki. The Kosciuszko National Park is visited by up to 70,000 tourists a year, and about 30,000 of them make the pleasant four-hour hike to the top of the mountain. So if everything you read above puzzled you, you can limit yourself to one point of the program of the Seven Peaks: you can only die from boredom at two thousand.

Kosciuszko. Photo: nationalparks.nsw.gov.aujp

We hope that after this article about the Seven Peaks, you will go looking for the second and third jobs in order to collect the required amount as soon as possible and hit the road. After all, the Seven Peaks are not only peaks high in the sky, but also big Adventure across all continents of the planet.

According to the data, it is this shield volcano located on Hawaiian Islands is the highest, considering the height from the very base of the mountain.

As you know, with its height of 10203 meters, it is 1355 meters higher than Chomolungma. If you decide to visit this gigantic elevation, you will notice that most of the mountain is hidden under water, and only 4205 meters rise above sea level.

Mauna Kea has existed on earth for about a million years. According to experts, the last period of activity of the volcano was 500,000 years ago, the last eruption occurred approximately 4-5 thousand years ago, so it is considered inactive and there is no reason to worry.

It is believed that the top of the mountain of the volcano has everything best qualities, intended for astronomical observation: humid air, temperature, number of sunny days per year, environmental conditions, etc. As you know, a number of powerful telescopes are already operating on its top, and in 214 the construction of the largest telescope in the world began there.

The highest mountains in the world from all continents. Description of seven the highest peaks by frequent light.

As you know, there is a project that includes a list of the highest peaks in the world around the world and it has the name "Seven Peaks". This seven includes the mountains of North and South America, as well as Asia and Europe. Climbers who have conquered all seven peaks automatically become honorary members of the Seven Peaks Club.

I consider it necessary to provide a list of mountains that are included in the list of "seven peaks":

• Chomolungma (Asia);
• Aconcagua (South America);
• McKinley (North America);
• Kilimanjaro (Africa);
• Elbrus or Mont Blanc (Europe);
• Vinson Massif (Antarctica);
• Kosciuszko (Australia) or Cartens Pyramid (Punchak Jaya) (Australia and Oceania).

Chomolungma (Everest) as the highest peak in Asia

Territorially, she laid her southern mountain ranges(8760 m) on the border of Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, and the northern (main, 8848 m) - on the territory of China itself. The peak itself belongs to the Himalayas and the Mahalangur-Himal range. Its coordinates are 27.59`17` N. 86.55`31` E

An interesting fact is that we would not have known about this mountain, as the highest in the world, if in 1852, a certain mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sidkar, being in India, at a distance of 240 km. from India, did not determine this by trigonometric calculations.

The tallest Asian beauty has the shape of a trihedral pyramid. The southern skrod is notable for its geometric steepness and exposure, so snow and firn do not hold on it. As you know, many glaciers come down from the top, which end their existence at 5000 m-howl.

According to the facts, the first people to climb the highest peak were Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Yudmond Hillary, they climbed on May 29, 1953 through the South Col.

You should not hide the fact that the mountain is not very welcoming to guests. Its climate is very severe, the wind speed reaches 55 m/s, the temperature in some places drops to -60 degrees Celsius. According to statistics, every twentieth climber forever remains on the slopes of harsh peaks, even modern equipment and equipment do not help, as a result of which 200 climbers from 1953 to 2014 left their lives without conquering the highest peak.

Aconcagua is the second of the Seven Peaks, the highest peak in the western and southern hemispheres of the Earth.

As you know, in Argentina, in the central part of the Andes, the highest mountain in South America, Aconcagua, is located. According to the data, this peak was formed at the confluence of two lithospheric plates Nazca and South American and is 6962 m in absolute height. She also has a large number of glaciers, the largest - northeastern (Polish) and eastern.

Coordinates: 32.39`S 70.00`W

In comparison with Chomolungma, it will not be difficult to climb this peak if it is made from the northern slope. But despite this, it will be more difficult to conquer from the south or southwest. As you know, the British were the first to climb Mount Akonkaguu in 1898 with the expedition of Edward Fitzgerald.

The third of the "Seven Summits" is the highest mountain in North America - McKinley

Coordinates - 63.04`10` N 151.00`26` W

This miracle of nature is located in the center national park Denali, in Alaska. As the story goes, until 1867, that is, until Alaska was sold to the United States, it was considered the most high mountain Russian Empire. The first person who saw it from two sides is Lavrenty Alekseevich Zagoskin, the leader of the Russian expedition.

March 17, 1913, American climbers under the command of Hudson Stack are considered the first people to conquer this peak.

According to the stories, earlier the indigenous people, the Athabaskan Indians, called this mountain Denali, which means “great” in translation. It was also called “Big Mountain” during the Russian Empire. It received its final name in 1896 in honor of the 25th American president.

The highest mountain in Africa and the fourth of the "seven" - Kilimanjaro

Geographical coordinates: 3.04`00` S, 37.21`33` E

This mountain is a potentially active volcano in northeastern Tanzania. Its backbone is made up of three extinct volcano: Shira is located in the west from 3962 m above sea level, Kibo in the center with a height of 5891.8 m, and in the east Mawenzi with a height of 5149 m.

Speaking of appearance mountains, then its peaks are covered with an ice cap. Unfortunately, this glacier is actively melting and its height is barely noticeable as in the old days, and experts predict its complete disappearance by 2020. Such active melting may be due to the clearing of nearby forests and reduced rainfall.

As evidenced by the facts, in 1889 the first ascent to this peak was made by Hans Meyer. It is important to say that the conquest of this mountain is not considered difficult from a technical point of view. since it is located close to the equator and is located at the intersection point of all types of altitudinal zonation.

The highest peak in Russia and Europe - Elbrus

Geographical coordinates: 43.20`45` N, 42.26`55` E

Due to the ambiguity of the border between Asia and Europe, there are currently disputes about the belonging of this mountain to Europe. With a positive answer, this mountain can be considered the highest point in Europe, if not, then Mont Blanc can claim this peak.

About the location: as you know, Elbrus is located on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachevo-Cherkessia, which is in the Caucasus.

Outwardly, it looks like an auger-shaped cone of a volcano, with a height of 5642 m in the west, and 5621 m in the east. According to the data, in the 50s. before. AD last eruption was observed.

The hills of this mountain are covered with glaciers measuring 134.5 square kilometers, the largest of which are Big and Small Azau, Terskop.

From the point of view of climbers, the ascent is not difficult, but with the presence of particularly difficult routes. The first conquest was carried out during the expedition of General G.A. Emanuel, head of the Caucasian fortified line in 1929.

The highest mountain of Antarctica and the sixth of the "seven" - Vinson Massif

Geographic coordinates: 78.31`31` S, 85.37`01` W

The mountain is part of the Ellsworth Mountains and is geographically located 1200 km. from the South Pole. Its scale is 21 m long and 13 km. in width. Vinson Peak is the highest point of the massif.

It was discovered thanks to American pilots in 1957, and on December 18, 1966, a sunrise was recorded by Nicholas Clinch.

The fifth of seven and the first mountain in Europe "Mont Blanc"

Geographic coordinates: 45.49`58` N, 6.51`53` E

This beauty is located on the border of France and Italy and belongs to the mountain system of the Alps. Its length is 50 km. it is part of the Mont Blanc crystalline massif. The mountain has a large and majestic cover with a length of 200 km., Mer de Glace is the largest glacier.

Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard were the first to conquer the massif on August 8, 1786. Also interesting fact is also the fact that in 1886, during his honeymoon, this mountain was conquered by Theodore Roosevelt.

The seventh of the "Seven" and the first in continental Australia - Mount Kosciuszko

Geographic coordinates: 36.27`S 148.16`E

This array was discovered in 1840 and is located on the territory of the national park of the same name, in the Australian Alps in the south of New South Wales.

As you know, the name of the mountain in honor of the military and political figure Tadeusz Kosciuszko was given by the Polish traveler, geographer and geologist Pavel Edmund Strzelecki. It was he who in 1840 carried out the first conquest of this mountain.

The highest in Australia and Oceania and the seventh of seven - Carstens Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)

Geographic coordinates: 4.05` S, 137.11` E

It is impossible to miss the fact that there is currently a disagreement about which array should close the list of "seven" vertices. When taking into account the Austrian continent, Kosciuszko Peak will be considered, and when capturing the whole of Australia and Oceania, the Carstens Pyramid with a height of 4884 meters will be undeniably the highest. Because of this, two versions of the “seven peaks” were created, including two variants. But the main one is still considered the Pyramid of Carstens.

The peak is part of the Maoke massif and is located in the western part of the island of New Guinea.

The mountain is named after the Dutch explorer Jan Carstens, who discovered it in 1623. For the first time its hills were conquered by a group of four Austrian climbers led by Heinrich Harrer in 1962.

The program of climbing the highest peaks of all continents has an abbreviated name, which can also be called a brand - "Seven Peaks". In English, which is understandable to the whole world - “Seven Summits”. This is one of the climbing collections, the implementation of which is an incentive to set goals in life for hundreds of citizens. different countries. The vast majority of those who climb Everest, one way or another, set as their goal the implementation of this program. Since the rest of the peaks are easier and cheaper than reaching the highest point of the Earth. It is very prestigious to become the first "seven peaker" in your country, in your state, to become the first woman in the country, the oldest, the youngest, the fastest.

Climbing all seven peaks is very expensive. Even the most economical option in total will approach 100 thousand dollars, not including the cost of equipment and preparation for expeditions. In reality, the optimal cost of the entire program is around $150,000.

It is clear that such expenses are available only to a very few of the climbers. When it comes to personal funds. However, a minority of those who hunt for the "Seven Peaks" spend their money exclusively. Most are supported by sponsors, governments, or travel for charitable fundraising programs. The legislation, relatively speaking, of the “Anglo-Saxon” countries allows deducting donations for the needs of a number of organizations from the taxable base. These are medical institutions, funds to help veterans of military conflicts, the disabled, etc. By collecting donations for them, the climber “unfastens” a little on his travels. Along with the fact that more money is printed in these countries than in others, this leads to the fact that half of the list of “seven tops” are citizens of the USA, Great Britain and Canada and Australia that joined them.

The Seven Peaks program was born in the first half of the 80s, when the first signs appeared that it could be done. The whole history of its occurrence is described in our article.

Recall that, according to encyclopedias: "mainland" (from seasoned - strong, large), this is the Russian analogue of the European word "continent" (from Latin continens - singular). Continents are large massifs of the earth's crust, most of the surface of which protrudes above the level of the oceans in the form of land. Islands do not belong to continents and continents.

From a scientific point of view, the objects of the Seven Peaks program are highly controversial. Firstly, the prevailing opinion among scientists is that Eurasia is one continent and its division into Europe and Asia is cultural, but not geographical. We are actively against it. If Elbrus is deprived of the status of the highest peak of the continent, the number of foreign climbers will decrease significantly. Although the status of the highest point in Europe for the Caucasian peak is very controversial. From the point of view of Soviet geographers, the border of the parts of the world runs along the Kuma-Manych depression, while Elbrus moves away to Asia. An even greater diversity of views on whether to consider the Carstensz Pyramid as Australia's highest point. From any of the scientific theories, the western part of the island of New Guinea does not belong to the "Green Continent". These are all amusing disputes and arguments, which have practically nothing to do with practical life.

So, the 7 highest peaks of the continents are:

1. Everest (Chomolungma or Chomolungma), 8848 m. Asia.
2. Aconcagua, 6962 m. South America.
3. Denali (old name - McKinley), 6194 m. North America.
4. Kilimanjaro, 5895 m. Africa.
5. Elbrus, 5642 m. Europe.
6. Vinson massif, 4897 m. Antarctica.
7. Pyramid Carstensz (Punchak Jaya), 4884 m. Australia. Peak Kosciuszko (Kosciuszko), 2228 m. Australia.

So, scientific debate on this topic is best left to those who are paid money for it. We love the magical (divine, as they say) number "Seven", not "Six" (considered diabolical). It doesn't matter that there are eight vertices! And based on this we build our story. So, what mountains are included in the list of the highest peaks of the continents?

Everest (8848 m) - the highest peak in Asia, the continent of Eurasia and the highest peak of the planet Earth (if you count from the level of the ocean), also the highest in the Northern Hemisphere of our planet. The mountain is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet (China). Numerous height measurements showed different results even with modern methods. That's why specified height is conditional, it was accepted as a result of coordination, so as not to escalate passions.

Climbing Everest requires careful preparation, about two months of life in expeditionary conditions and overcoming the problems associated with being in the so-called "death zone", at an altitude above 8000 meters. However, in modern conditions, it can be stated that with the right organization and a sufficient degree of luck, every physically healthy person can climb Mount Everest. Recently, ascents are made mainly in the spring, during the so-called weather windows. This usually happens on the 20th of May. At the same time, the routes from the south and from the north are completely preliminarily hung with railing ropes.

Climbing Everest, which 30-40 years ago meant joining a group of climbing elites, has become a commercial undertaking. Sports expeditions have become a rarity, most of the routes (all but two) are not repeated. The 7 Summits Club prefers to conduct expeditions from the North side. Permit is much cheaper here, it is possible to drive up to base camp and much less objective dangers (ice collapses and avalanches). Western firms prefer southern route. First of all, fearing the unpredictability of the Chinese authorities, who can close the area for minor reasons, without any compensation to the organizers. They may not give a visa to individual participants, for political reasons. But there is another point, in the South at a higher price, the profits of the organizers are much higher than in the North.

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Aconcagua (6962 m) - the highest peak of the part of the world America and the continent of South America, also the main one in the southern hemisphere of the planet. The mountain is located in Argentina, a large and colorful country. Climbing Aconcagua is a real high-altitude ascent, which is carried out, so to speak, under the conditions of a lightweight expedition (the duration of the trip is only 20 days). Separate cargo transportation at the bottom of the route facilitates the ascent, as well as the availability of certain amenities at the base camp. There are no technical difficulties on the classic route, however, there are plenty of physical ones. First of all, this is the height, the reaction to which is often unpredictable even among experienced athletes. Strong winds are considered the main obstacle, which are associated with the openness of the territory to air masses from the oceans.

Every year, about 3,000 climbers attempt to climb Aconcagua. They climb two gorges from two base camps. However, the routes at the top are the same. Success reaches about half of the participants. This is due to the lack of readiness of climbers. And partly with the attitude of local guides, who are not inclined to take risks and are ready to turn the whole group or individual participants at any opportunity. So we highly recommend joining a group led by visiting, Russian-speaking guides. Better - from our company ...

Aconcagua climbing programs are getting more expensive from year to year due to the policies of local authorities. So don't delay.

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Denali (6194 m) - the highest peak of the mainland of North America. Located in the USA, in the state of Alaska, near the Arctic Circle. A typical ascent takes approximately three weeks, of which two weeks is hard work in the glacier zone, in conditions close to extreme. Participants are required to use purely mountaineering skills to a greater extent than on other peaks of the "seven". At the same time, all goods must be carried independently, including recycled waste. And when organizing a trip to Denali, you will have to solve a puzzle with obtaining an official permit and an American visa. All this is not at all difficult if you start in time.

In recent years, the number of climbers who aim to climb Denali has stabilized at around 1,500 per year. A season is considered successful when the percentage of "climbing" is above 50%. Most of the ascents are made in June - the first half of July. In the middle of summer, due to the state of the glacier, flights on airplanes become dangerous and stop by the beginning of August.

The American authorities issue permission to organize commercial programs only to a few companies and only with an American “registration”. For us, this means the need to use American guides under an agreement with one of the local companies. Let's face it, agreeing on all the details of interaction with them was not a smooth process. The difference in the mentality of our two mountaineering schools is very significant, but now mutual understanding has already been achieved and the problems are in the past.

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Kilimanjaro (5895 m) is the highest peak of the African continent and part of the world. The mountain is located in Tanzania, not far from the border with Kenya and from the equator. It is considered the highest single-standing peak in the world. The local National Park strictly regulates climbing and allocates a limited number of days for expeditions, an average of a week. At the same time, one of the goals is to ensure maximum employment for the local population working in the service of groups. Therefore, for one climber there are two or even more employees of the host companies.

Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the equatorial climate zone. The temperature difference between seasons is minimal. Practically climbing can be done all year round.

Due to the limited time, the ascent is carried out without sufficient acclimatization, which complicates the task of reaching the summit for an unprepared person. And these are the vast majority. Therefore, the ascent to the highest point can be done by no more than one third of the visitors. At the same time, almost all representatives of our country reach the top. What affects here: the power of salt or greed (money paid)?

In any case, a trip to Kilimanjaro is an exciting adventure, getting to know amazing nature Africa and its people is simply amazing. This The best way fall in love with the "black continent", which many are wary of. And, of course, we consider it obligatory to include in the program the so-called "safaris", excursions in national parks.

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Elbrus (5642 m) is the highest peak in Europe. The mountain is located in Russia, a little north of the Main Caucasian Range and, accordingly, from the border with Georgia. Climbing in favorable conditions requires only elementary climbing skills and is available to all physically healthy people. However, the load will still be serious, and the effect of height will make itself felt. The recommended time for the Elbrus climbing program is 9 days.

There is a fairly developed infrastructure that provides relatively comfortable living conditions for all days, except for the day of ascent.

Elbrus is still a territory of freedom. In this regard, only Kosciuszko can compare with him. Attempts to introduce payments do not meet with understanding from the majority of climbers.

There are no general statistics on Elbrus. An approximate estimate of the number of climbers is 25-30 thousand per year. The vast majority rises in July and August.

Programs of the Club 7 Peaks on Elbrus

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The Vinson Massif (4897 m) is the highest peak of the part of the world and the mainland of Antarctica. The mountain is located on an amazing icy continent, which so far belongs to all mankind. However, in the region of the very top, the absolute owner is the ALE (Antarctic Logistic Expedition) company, which determines the “rules of the game” here. But even the simplest calculations, how long the ascent will last, they are not able to do, the real schedule of "flights" is dictated by unpredictable weather.

Since the cost of an expedition to the Vinson Massif is very significant, only serious people get to its foot. And, as a rule, they successfully ascend, having overcome the terrible cold and wind.

It is important to dress properly. But this is also checked.

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AND highest point part of the world and the continent of Australia, coupled with the colossal area of ​​Oceania, is represented by two options: the Karstensz Pyramid and Mount Kosciuszko.

Pyramid Karstensz, she, in the Indonesian way, Punchak Jaya (4884-5 m, on some maps even 5030 m) is the highest peak in Australia and Oceania. Located on the island of New Guinea. The most problematic politically a mountain from the "Seven Peaks", which before that 10 years was simply closed to the public. It is a rocky ridge of considerable length, located above the humid tropical jungle. Climbing and descending requires skills in working with climbing equipment, with a rope. However, as part of a group and under the guidance of experienced instructors, overcoming difficult rocky areas is quite possible for any person.

The helicopter version has also existed for quite a long time, in which the base camp is reached by a rotorcraft. However, there are pitfalls here as well. Bad weather is a daily occurrence here, every flight is in danger of being disrupted.

Previously, the site talked about. However, all these mountains are located in one part of the world - Asia, namely in the two neighboring mountain systems of the Himalayas and the Karakorum, therefore it is customary to also single out the 7 highest mountain peaks in the world, one for each part of the world. Climbers who have conquered all these mountains are included in the honorary Seven Summits Club.
There are 2 main lists of the seven peaks of the world. More difficult to climb is the list compiled by the Italian climber Reinhold Messner. In this list, in addition to Asia, Europe, South and North America, Africa, Antarctica, not Australia appears as part of the world, but Australasia, i.e. region including Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand and adjacent islands Pacific Ocean. Accordingly, instead of the highest peak in Australia - Mount Kosciuszko, whose height is only 2228 meters and which is very easy to conquer, the list includes Mount Jaya in New Guinea, whose height is 4884 meters and which was first conquered only in 1962. The list, compiled by the American climber Richard Bass, is more traditional in terms of Russian geography, it lists Australia as part of the world, not Australasia.
Thus, the highest peaks of the world become not seven, but eight. In some interpretations, there are even nine of them, because. between geographers there are still disagreements about the border between Europe and Asia, so the highest peak in Europe is either Elbrus in the Russian Caucasus, or Mont Blanc in the Alps.
In this article, we will use the Messner list, because it is he who is presented as the main one on the website of the Seven Summits Club - 7summits.com. The mountains in the ranking are sorted by height, starting with the highest.

Asia's highest mountain peak - Chomolungma in the Himalayas, also known as Everest. Chomolungma in Tibetan means "mistress of the winds", as for English name Everest, then it was awarded in honor of Sir George Everest, head of the British India Survey in 1830-1843. The height of the peak is 8848 meters. Chomolungma is located in China, namely in Tibet, on the border with Nepal. The first ascent of the mountain was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpas (Sherpas - a people living in Eastern Nepal, as well as in India) Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary. The climbers used oxygen devices. More than 30 Sherpas took part in the work of the expedition.

The highest mountain peak in South America aconcagua in the Andes mountain range. Height 6962 meters. Located in Argentina. Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres. In mountaineering, Aconcagua is considered a technically easy mountain if you climb the northern slope. When climbing, the influence of altitude is noticeable, the atmospheric pressure at the top is about 40% of the pressure at sea level. However, the use of oxygen tanks during the ascent is not required. Even children can conquer this mountain with appropriate preparation: in 2013, 9-year-old American Tyler Armstrong did it, and in 2016, 12-year-old Romanian Dor Jeta Popescu.

highest mountain peak North America - Denali included in the Alaska Range. Height 6194 meters. Located in the USA (Alaska). From 1896 until August 28, 2015, the mountain was called McKinley, in honor of the 25th President of the United States of America, now the traditional Indian name Denali has been returned to the mountain (this word means "great" in the language of the Athabaskan Indian people). From 1799 to 1867, the mountain was the highest point of the Russian Empire, until Alaska, where Denali is located, was sold to the United States. For the first time this peak was conquered in 1906 by the American expedition of Frederick Cook.

Africa's highest mountain peak is Mount Kilimanjaro. Height - 5895 meters. Located in Tanzania. Climbing Kilimanjaro is considered quite simple, but it takes time for high-altitude acclimatization. Almost any healthy person can climb the main routes leading to it, without climbing training and special equipment.

The highest mountain peak in Europe and Russia is the Elbrus volcano. Height 5642 meters. It is located on the territory of the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria. The first ascent of Elbrus was carried out by a Russian expedition led by George Emmanuel in 1829.

The highest peak of Antarctica - vinson array. Height 4892 meters. The first ascent took place in 1966 by an American expedition led by Nicholas Clinch. Conquering Vinson is not a cheap pleasure due to the inaccessibility of Antarctica and difficult climatic conditions (even in summer the temperature on the massif does not rise above minus 30 degrees Celsius): you must either organize an expedition yourself or pay for services travel company, which cost about $30,000 per person and include shipping to Antarctica from Chile.

The highest mountain peak in Australasia (a region that includes Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand and the adjacent islands of the Pacific Ocean) - Jaya(other name - Pyramid of Carstens). Height 4884 meters. Jaya is the highest mountain in the world located on the island. Jaya was first climbed in 1962 by a group of four Austrian climbers led by Heinrich Harrer.

Members Club 7 Summits(7 Summits Club) are climbers who have reached the highest peaks of all 7 continents. The idea of ​​this project arose in 1981 (of course, in America), and the first members of the Club appeared in 1985 and 1986 (there are two versions of the list of 7 highest peaks, more on that below). Today, Seven Peaks is one of the most popular commercial programs among "climbing collectors": tens of thousands of people are trying to implement it. At the end of 2011, at least according to one version, only 348 climbers managed to do this. As part of the 7 Summits program, ascents are usually carried out along the simplest "standard" routes.

7 Peaks

So, the 7 highest peaks of all continents are:

1. Everest (Chomolungma), 8848 m. Asia
2. Aconcagua, 6962 m. South America
3. McKinley (Denali), 6194 m. North America
4. Kilimanjaro, 5895 m. Africa
5. Elbrus, 5642 m. Europe
6. Vinson Peak, 4897 m. Antarctica
7a. Pyramid Carstens (Punchak Jaya), 4884 m. Australia and Oceania (New Guinea)
7b. Peak Kosciuszko (Kosciuszko), 2228 m. Australia

There is controversy regarding the highest point in Australia. If we consider only the continent of Australia, this will be the Kosciuszko peak with a height of 2228 m. The highest point of Australia and Oceania (which, in addition to Australia, includes the adjacent islands and archipelagos) will be the highest point of the island of New Guinea - Carstens' Pyramid (Punchak Jaya), 4884 m. Therefore, today day there are two versions of the Seven Summits program: with the Kosciuszko Peak and with the Carstens Pyramid. The main (and more complex) is the Carstens pyramid program.

Route to Elbrus from the south, through Priyut 11

The route of climbing Elbrus from the North

4897 m. Antarctica. Perhaps the most difficult peak of the seven. The Vinson Massif was discovered only in the 50s of the last century during an aircraft overflight. Unexpectedly, this peak turned out to be the highest in Antarctica. Technically, the route is not difficult, but it is extremely difficult and expensive to get to the foot of the mountain, especially since the organization of ascents is monopolized by the Canadian-English office Adventure Network. Nevertheless, more than a thousand people have already visited the summit of Vinson.

View of Vinson Massif

Carstensz Pyramid (Punchak Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid), 4884 m. is located in the mountains of Irian Jaya on the island of New Guinea (in its western part, belonging to Indonesia) and is the highest point in Australia and Oceania. The first ascent of Carstens in 1962 was made by the Austrian climber Heinrich Harrer (known to us from the film "7 Years in Tibet"). However, until recently, the peak was little known and this ascent did not arouse much interest. Climbing the limestone peak itself is not particularly difficult, the main difficulties are the lack of infrastructure, inaccessibility and the difficult equatorial climate.

Carstensz Pyramid (Punchak Jaya, Carstensz Pyramid)

Peak Kosciuszko, 2228 m - the highest point in Australia. It is a peak in the ridge of the Snowy Mountains (Snowy Mountains), slightly rising above the neighboring ones. The ascent does not represent any technical difficulty.

Peak Kosciuszko ... somewhere there

History of the 7 Summits project

The idea to climb the highest peaks of all continents first occurred to an American millionaire Dick Bass after he climbed McKinley (Denali) - the highest point in America in May 1981. Another millionaire became his partner in the implementation of the project - Frank Wells. In 1981, they went to Elbrus - organizationally it turned out to be not difficult, the system of MALs, the forerunners of today's commercial mountaineering, was already working. Only Bass made it to the top. Aconcagua was next, and not the easiest Polish route was chosen (like acclimatization and training before Everest). Only Bass made it to the top again. In 1982, Bass and Wells joined Lou Whittaker's expedition, which planned to take the route along the Norton couloir - unfortunately, without success.

In 1982, after climbing Everest in the classics from the south, the idea of ​​the 7 Summits project captured and Patrick Morrow, professional climber and photographer from Canada. An unspoken competition has begun.

In September 1983, Bass and Wells go to Kilimanjaro, and a week later - to Elbrus. Morrow in 1983 climbed three peaks from the list - Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Kosciuszko Peak in Australia. Until the completion of the program, he was left with only Vinson in Antarctica, in those years practically inaccessible to climbers. Bass and Wells managed to organize an expedition to Antarctica in late 1983, which also included Chris Bonnington and a. Morrow did not have the $200,000 needed to join this expedition. At the end of November, the expedition members managed to go to the top (), Miura, in addition, went down from the top on skis. On the way back, Bass and Wells stopped at Kosciuszko Peak in Australia. Morrow organized an expedition to Antarctica in the winter of 1984-85, but due to bad weather and aircraft breakdowns, they were unable to reach their destination.

On April 30, 1985, Bass managed to climb Everest from Nepal - thus he became the first member of the 7 Summits club in the Kosciuszko Peak option. Frank Wells never climbed all 7 peaks, in 1994 he died in a plane crash.

Patrick Morrow went to the top of Vinson on November 19, 1985, and Elbrus still remained for him. He was not satisfied with the role of the second, so he decided to support the idea, which he actively promoted Reinhold Messner- in the list of 7 Peaks there should be the highest point of Australia and Oceania with a height of almost 5 kilometers, and the Kosciuszko peak, which is of no climbing interest, is only 2228 m high.

Messner at that time (actively trying to become the first climber to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, which he managed in 1986) also decided to join the race for the Seven Summits. He climbed Carstens back in 1971, it was his first peak from the list of 7 Peaks. In 1983, Messner ascends Elbrus and Kosciuszko Peak - and he is left with only the hard-to-reach Vinson, having entered which on December 3, 1986, he becomes the 2nd member of the club according to the "Carstens Pyramid" version (this option is also called "Messner's List") and 5th - according to the Kosciuszko Peak (Bass list). Morrow climbed Elbrus on August 5, 1986, becoming 1st in the Carstens Pyramid list and 3rd in the Kosciuszko Peak list. Morrow was also the first to climb all 8 highest peaks (this list includes Carstens Pyramid and Kosciuszko Peak).

Records

The very format of the Club - "the highest peaks of the world" - involves the pursuit of records and their careful recording. The number of possible “very first” nominations is almost endless, but we will still list the most significant “records”. So:

The first woman to complete the 7 Summits program was Junko Tabei in 1992.

In 2007, Austrian Christian Stangl climbed all 7 Summits in the Messner version alone (presumably without the help of guides - it's hard to imagine a solo on Everest along the classical route) and without additional oxygen. However, Messner, Ed Vesturs, and the Czech climber Miroslav Kaban also went to Everest without additional oxygen (and it is not needed at other peaks) as part of the 7 Summits program.

American Kit DesLauriers in October 2006 not only climbed all 7 peaks in the Bass version, but also skied down from them (as far as it was possible). A year later, Swedes Olof Sundström and Martin Letzter skied off the Carstens Pyramid, skiing down all 8 of the highest peaks.

Lecter with skis under Carstens' pyramid. It’s not clear where you can go there, but at least you skied to the top :)

Age records: On May 17, 2006, Rhys Jones completed the program on his 20th birthday, after which the record was updated almost every year, on December 24, 2011, American Jordan Romero climbed all 7 peaks (the last one was Vinson), in age 15 years 5 months and 12 days.

In January 2010 Spaniard Carlos Soria Fontán climbed Mount Kilimanjaro with a 7 summit program at the age of 71.

New Zealanders Rob Hall and Gary Bol were the first to climb all 7 peaks during the year, in 2008 Dane Heinrich Christiansen completed the program in 136 days, in 2010 Vern Tejas improved this achievement by 2 days. Christiansen's schedule was as follows: Vinson on January 21, Akocagua on February 6, Kotsyushko Peak on February 13, Kilimanjaro on March 1, Carstens Pyramid on March 14, Elbrus on May 8, Everest on May 25 and Denali on June 5. The women's record of 360 days was set by Englishwoman Annabelle Bond, and in 2013 Vanessa O'Brien climbed all 7 peaks (including Carstens' pyramid) in 10 months.

How much does it cost?

The 7 Summits program is one of the most popular commercial climbing products. Moreover, it is almost impossible to organize an ascent to some peaks, such as Vinson Peak or the Carstens Pyramid, due to their remoteness and inaccessibility.

For example, the cost of climbing according to the 7 Summits program of one of the Western operators (in $) and one of the Russian ones (in rubles). Surely you can find cheaper prices, but these figures give a general idea.

Material prepared:(Leonid Smidovich)

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