NOVEMBER 5TH, 2016

I have not written about Cambodia for a long time, I decided to reveal memories now. Earlier I posted Khmer historical monuments In his blog on a temporary sign - first the most ancient, then all the others in the order of descending order of their age. I will continue this tradition, although the Angcard region is usually described more often geographically - first the most significant temples, and then all the others. It's closer to the time scale, and now on the agenda we have the 10th century Cambucundes - the Khmer Empire, then the world-famous tourist attraction is not built - the Angkor Wat temple, there was no great city in Angkor Thoma (or rather it was just started to equip). It was the time of the wandering capitals of the Khmer Empire and their great pyramid temples.

About the essence of the device of Khmer cities, now only in general I reminds the capitals in Cambucujades, they were equipped around the central temples that had a pyramidal form and served as the last time to calm Khmer rulers. Each new king built a new pyramid, everything is almost like in Ancient Egypt, Only in his pyramids, Khmera was not mummies who had reached the kings, and their ashes remaining after cremation.
After all, the whole culture ancient Cambodia It was built on Hinduism, it was embodied in the stone and the tree the idea of \u200b\u200bAryan cities, and communicated even to some degree of madness. For the construction activity of Khmer is truly striking.

The pyramid of the temple is prep.

The Temple of Radhendravaman II was dedicated to God Shiva, his name (pre-RUP) translates as "turning the body", and displays an important part of the funeral rite of Khmer, when the corpse turned into fire for better combustion. Like all the early Khmer Tsarist temples, the RUE is a stepped pyramid, symbolizing the Hindu Mount Mode. The Pyramid of Prev RUP has three steps, on which there are five rods of prasatov, actually, this is the temples themselves, they were the statues of the deities, as a rule, these were figures with portrait features of Donator Temple, i.e. rulers of the Cambucujander. In addition to the statues in the temples, the symbols of royal power were located - stone lingamas.

Lower step of the pyramid of prevs.

In addition to the temple of Razhravarman II, Vishvapuru - Lepreger ancestor of the King, aunt of Rajantwravman II and Jayavarman IV-Jayadyevi (Jahendradyevi), and Harsavarman II of Her Son and the predecessor of Rugendravaman II on the throne, were honored in Prasakov. That is, Khmerov was deified all the royal genus, each relative of the king existed its own temple.

Central Prasat Prev RUP.

Now, from the ancient statues within the main temple, only the grounds for which Buddhas put funny images remained at best.

Early pyramidial temples of the kings of Angcard are a serious problem for researchers in the history of the Khmer Empire. The influence of the idea that each such temple should be the center of a separate city, i.e. When the kings of Cambodia erected their shrinkers, they were equipped and cities around them. The question arises, how many of these cities were and why was there such costly activities at all. Previously, I disassembled on the example of Yasodharapura, the first capital of Angcard. Now you can add that the question of Khmer capitals has not yet been resolved. There is no accurate answer - why it was necessary to transfer the capital just a few kilometers, especially for a very short time interval, for example, for one 10th century in the region of Angkor founded at least 4 capitals (and rather more).

The ceiling of the main temple.

You can understand the transfer of the capital to Koch Ker UsurPtor Jayavarmann IV, this city was built far in the north of Angcore. Then Koh Ker was a competitive center of power. Or is it logical to transfer the capital from, in the 10th century it is already possible to stop moving the artificial, who dated this city. Therefore, the area of \u200b\u200bcapitals suffered the north-west. Although, the drying of Inrartataki is only an assumption, it is surprising that this giant pool is dry in less than 100 years.

Indravman I graduated from the construction of the sanctuary Barkong in Hariharalaya in 881, and already in the 900s Yashovarman I founded Yasodharapur - only 20 years. In the case of Yashodharapura, the transfer of the capital could be, indeed, due to the cropping of the main reservoir, as, together with the capital Yashovarman I began the creation and a huge Eastern Baraya - a new reservoir. But for other cases of the transfer of the capital, this factor is not applicable, because the reservoirs remained in place, and the capital as if they moved.

Such stormy town planning was observed in the Middle Ages and in other places, for example, in India in the Delia Sultanate. There, Turkic rulers of India were initiated, they did not try to expand old settlements, and constantly erected new, with new palaces, mosques and urban fortifications, and all this is about 10 square meters. km. These cities in antiquity were not closed with each other, perhaps only rural settlements were located between them, afterwards a dozen Turkic cities of capitals merged into one big, so the current capital of India Delhi appeared.

In an Angkor, this city formation process was interrupted in 14-15 centuries. The capital was postponed to the current penetration, and the entire territory of the ancient cities threw the rainforest. The similarity of the process of city formation may indicate the similarity of cultures seemed to be different civilizations. It is possible to transfer the capital by each new ruler first of all the cult importance, with a great degree of probability, the ruling dynasty of the Cambuca dynasty had an Indian origin, these were immigrants from the Kushan Empire, based on nomadic tribes. Even - on horseback, in Scythian headboards and with a mustache like Zaporizhzhya Cossacks. The same nomads were the rulers of the Delia Sultanate, these were Turks from Central Asia. For nomadic rulers, it was probably important to periodically change the location of the bet.

Frequent transfer of capitals in Khmer did not contribute to the creation of normal fortification around the cities, although the impressive lines of fortifications were attended by later settlements in Cambucuja. In the area of \u200b\u200bAngkor, the walls built only in Angkor Tome in the 12th century, also apparently strengthening existed in Hariharalay, in any case the huge pivops filled with water were preserved there well. Archaeologists suggest that Rips with water were previously attended by Prost Rupa, but something now they are completely invisible, I, as I did not search for their signs on the Google maps, did not find anything.

There are no moons and from the top of the pyramid of the temple, around only the forest. Here you need not to forget that Khmer piva-reservoirs are significant engineering structures, moat could have a width of 100 meters and more. Around Angkor Wata or they have been preserved perfectly, and then suddenly disappeared without a trace ... only two fences from Laterita and the ruins of the "auxiliary" buildings, which were visible around the temple, were visible around the temple, these are small temples, halls for pilgrims, ministers, because Khmer temples We attended a large number of people.

The Tower-Prasats on the platform of the prize were erected from the brick, the truth is quite large, more than standard sizes. Apparently, Razhenwarman II tried to save on construction, because in the 10th century all the main royal temples Khmera were already built of stone.

Save Rajanwarman II had every reason, since he conceived to build two major temples at once - his prep, and his parents - an East furniture, which we now also examine.

A small temple in the corner of the square complex of prep.

External wall of prep.

Approximately one kilometer north is the Temple of Parents Rajantwarman II - East Mebbit. Now there are peasant meadows and fields around him, and earlier the water of the Giant East Baraya - an artificial reservoir created by another Yashivman I at the junction of 9 and 10th centuries. Its length accounted for 7.2 km and width 1.8 km, the depth of artificial lake was about 5 meters. Now this barray is completely silent, so it is possible to submit its scale on the example of the preserved, dug out a little later.

Eastern fabric was artificial islandNow his buildings are similar to a low pyramid. Interestingly, the temple for his parents Rajantsharman II was built first - in 952, and only after 9 years he began to build his own temple mountain of transf.

The solemn staircase leading in the sanctuary was once a pier, where the boats of pilgrims moored. Apparently, the East Mebbit did not have a dam connecting it with land, so it was a fairly secluded place.

The platform of the Eastern Fombraction is the most, in my opinion, an interesting part temple complexFor the sanctuary itself is quite standard for Angcore.

The size of the platform is 115 by 115 meters, the island itself was embarrassed from the ground and the stone battle, which was trimmed with a shell from the latheite blocks.

At the corners of the platform, stone elephants are carved almost in a natural value.

In general, the Eastern Embossed Reminders the RUE, only there is no pyramid base.

Despite the lack of such as the temple looks impressive. There are few tourists here, which also creates only the pros. It seemed to me even more interesting to the pyramid of Prevup.

Numerous small holes on the walls were designed to hold abundant plaster, but as we see, this method could not protect the exterior decoration of the temples. The plaster everywhere fell off from the walls, but in ancient times, all Khmer temples were covered with her thick layer and brightly painted.

Once from the platform of the eastern fabric in all directions, only a water surface was visible, now the landscape has changed significantly.

Reconstruction of one of the entrances of Eastern Fombstream.

Stone elephants, by the way, rarely decorated the temples in an Angkore, as a rule, Lviv set everywhere.

On the platform of the temple, the remains of the halls for pilgrims are preserved, these were wooden structures with tiled roofs, which now you can see throughout the indoch. They had only pillars.

The outer fence of the Eastern Embroidery.

Well, now we will move a few kilometers west to inspect one of the highest pyramids in an Angkor - the Temple of Ta Keo, which was the center of Jaesendanagari of the capital of Jayavarman V Son Razhevarman II.

Before inspecting the pyramid itself, it is worth paying attention to an interesting engineering object located nearby, this is a bridge over the River Siem Rip, it has its own name Spean Tamar. Now the river bed is located west of the bridge, and the main thing is significantly lower, which hints at the fact that the fullness of the river in ancient times was superior to today's.

The city of Jaezhendanagari was located in a cunning place, east of his edge hung over the giant man-made Lake East Baram, and West, he rested against the Siem Rip Rip, which flowed from the north to south, as a result, it turned out the right square from two sides by water obstacles. At the same time, the ritual center of the temple of that Keo was surrounded by additional Rips, the truth is now to see them from above, in the Google maps, problematic, because the whole territory of the city denounced trees. The remnants of the connections are not easy to see even from the ground, they thumb so much, but it can still be stated that they are there, in any case the dam and the sacred road for the Temple of the Keo Temple look at well.

The pyramid of the temple of that Keo. He began to build at the beginning of the 11th century, Jayavman V, but never brought the matter to the end. Perhaps the ruler died early, and he did not have heirs, so the temple remained unfinished.

Like many temples in an Angkore, the Keo is very difficult to photograph during the daytime, for it is surrounded by high trees that give sharp and long shadows. In general, as everywhere, in an Angkore, it is better to shoot in the morning and in the evening, the day of lighting there is very bad, probably softer light can be caught in the rain period, when there is no such bright sun. But I did not have a choice, because the scale of the Angkor is great, if you restrict photographing only by evening hours, the inspection can take several months.

About the altitude of that kew I read different opinions, someone thinks that there are all 70 meters together with the main towerWhat is certainly incorrect, most likely 45-50. Just that Keo has an elongated silhouette, such a ratio of height and the width of the base had only - the largest in Cambodia.

In that Keo, the same steep staircase as in Angkor Wath, only there, after repeated falls of tourists, made special railing and steps. Here the staircase remained natural, the height of each stage is about half a meter, so you can only get up using your hands.

The main sanctuary of that Keo dedicated to Shiva also has the shape of the pyramid

The builders managed to build the bulk of the temple, but did not have time to decorate it with reliefs. Therefore, all the stone blocks in that Keo are digitally clean, they demonstrate how the walls of Khmer temples looked without an artistic finish. The round holes in the blocks were needed for the convenience of their carrying, they inserted wooden or metal sticks in them.

The internal volume of the main prasada in that Keo is surprisingly large, as a rule, the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises in such towers is insignificant, and there is a whole hall. Here makes your business another nun or someone like it.

Unlike the temples of his father (prep, oriental furniture), Dzhiavarman V made his temple completely stone. On construction, he clearly worked thousands of prisoners (now this people live mainly in Vietnam), with whom he led successful wars.

Before descending the steep staircase down, it is worth paying attention to the gallery around the main pyramid, perhaps these are the first similar galleries in Khmer architecture. Subsequently, similar covered corridors will be used in Angkor Wath.

Photo for memory on the platform of the Temple of PREP - Maximus in its maximum weight - 103 kg. At the end of the story, the Council from the author of this magazine, he sounds like this - before you climb on the temples of Angkor at the heat of 40 degrees, try at least a little to lose weight, it may save you from many unnecessary health problems. Unfortunately, man on this photo It was not in charge of this wise to the Council and after a couple of weeks weekly on Khmer jungle fell into a local hospital. Weemed, and the thermal impact, and poisoning, and the injury of the spine. I am sure that it would be much easier for 15 kg losing weight in every sense :) In general, I wish everyone health)

Previous posts dedicated to Cambodia and Angkor:

I immediately understood that I need a partner. Since the ruins of Koch Kera, where I intended to go, are 80 km from Angcard, or rather from Siem Riap - a small town where all tourists stop. And only cars and a taxi ride there, on Tuk-Tuka, allegedly do not get to such a distance, and because of this, the trip becomes not cheap, about $ 100 for a whole day. Therefore, if you take a traveler, you can reduce the cost of traveling twice.

The traveler was hard and just at the same time. Of course, many would like to go to the ancient Khmer city, which Angkor himself is superior to mystery. But I had a few eccentric plans, I was going to get up to the top of Pranga - the main temple of the city (there was closed access to the main temple (access in 2012), and take a little walk in the forests around. It would all have to be coordinated with a partner, because not everyone will risk climbing 35 meter pyramid. But I was lucky ...

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A young guy from Russia from Nalchik was stopped in my hotel. He traveled alone, and I immediately Uboltal Anatoly to climb the pyramid of death, for "what Russian does not like a quick ride (C)," - Pyramid, and also "death," - of course I got) Tolya turned out to be a sports and curious, interested history True, in a somewhat "alternative version", as we have it. We worked immediately, especially since he is also shooting, so the first time I had many photos of myself, and the side view is always interesting. In this post I inserted both my own and his photo.

Well, now about the very place where we were going to go. Koh Ker or Chhek-Gargyar was founded in 921 by the King of Cambucubs Jayavarmann IV. The main intrigue associated with this city is that Dzhiavarman suffered into Koch Ker the capital from Angcore (then he was called Yasodharapur). Why it took the king of Khmer moving to the north, and suddenly, now it is not known for certain. It is believed that Giavarman IV was a usurper, he wanted to create a new center forces, outside the Angcard, where another heir to the throne was sitting - Isaanverman II. For a while, the two metropolitan centers existed in parallel, but in 928, Stanavar II helped die, and Jayavarman IV became a full ruler of the Khmer Empire. At the same time, he did not return to Angkor. Jayavman continued to continue to equip his new town Chkok Gargyar, who received another sonor name - Lingapur (I would even be ashamed to translate it into Russian), in honor of the royal linga (and this, you know what) - the main symbol of the God of Shiva and the imperial power in Angkore.

Ruins of the gallery leading to the main temple of Koch Kera.

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Jayarman IV apparently put a task to overshadow the old capital Yasodharapur. Koh Ker, despite his short existence in the metropolitan status (921-944, just 23 years), became the most big city In Cambodia, up to the new time, its area of \u200b\u200b35 square meters. km. For comparison, the area of \u200b\u200bConstantinople did not exceed 16 square meters. km. Koh Ker, unlike the Angcore, is poorly studied, so its essence can be outlined only in general terms. The city had a rectangular outline - 7 5 km, which distinguishes him from predominantly square cities of ancient Cambodia. Not resolved to the end the question of whether it was surrounded by the fortress walls. In the north of this metropolis, there were remains of certain fortifications, but they are missing throughout the perimeter. The solution of this issue was the main goal of my visit to Koch Kera. Unfortunately, I was also uniquely answered by this question.

Lingapur had its main temple complex - Prasat Tha. The complex was shifted from the city center to the north, despite the fact that all Khmer major state churches were always built in the center of urban development. The main temple was supposed to personify the mountain of the measure, which grown out of the world's ocean, so almost all Khmer sanctoes surrounded wide Rips filled with water.

Ditch surrounding Prasat Tha.

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There was such a ditch and around Prasat Tahoma. The second important component of the Hindu temple is sacred mountainAs a rule, the main sanctuary was at the top of this mountain. According to such a principle, the temples of the former capitals - Yasodharapura and Harichalaia were built. Rips filled with water surrounded the temple-mountain, sometimes there were several of them, such as in Baccon. In Koh Kera, this scheme was for some reason changed, the main pyramid of the city - Prang, stood outside the ring of the RVs, it was shifted to the west inside the temple complex. And the complex itself, as I wrote, was shifted north of the center of the capital. Yes, and the city itself had a rectangular, not a quadrant outline. All this seems to be trivia, but people who have absolutely religious consciousness, such things can not appear arbitrarily.

Ruins Prasat Thota.

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Perhaps violations of the accepted planning were associated with somehow with the personality of the founder Koh Kera - Jayavarmann IV. The fact that he built his capital outside the old district of Angkor, speaks of a certain pull to innovation, although it is possible, he simply relied on the support of the northern tribes and did not trust Angkor nobility. Jayavman died during a hike on the Srevidaya sea Empire in 941. The board of Lingapur continued his son Harshavarman II, but he ruled for a long time, just 3 years. In 944, the capital was transferred back to Yasodharapur, Khaarsavarman apparently helped to go to the world. Power returned back to the dynasty of the founders of Angkor, overthrown by Jayavarmann IV.

Despite the short existence of the capital Koh, at that time a new style of Khmer art was created, which received his name. Moreover, changes occurred not only in architecture, but also in sculpture, a new expressive way of image people appeared. Figures of the gods and kings of the period Koh Ker became more solemn, large and, as not strange, realistic. Large steel and architectural forms, the style of Koh Ker, is a pull to giantia, and the most impressive building of this period became the main pyramid of the city - Prang. Unfortunately, now in Koh Kera, there is no sculpture in general, which was a great set. They were either pulled by museums, or simply broke. But the temple pyramid remained, it is she who is now the main tourist attraction of the city.

Remains of broken statues in Prasat Tomse - the head of the Bull Nandina and a pedestal from some sculpture.

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Well, now go to the main object. Temple-mountain Koch Kera was named the pyramid of death by lovers of different anal cars. There was a bunch of beak about her, thereby increasing the income of local tourist firms. In most cases, these bikes were created by enterprising guides. The stories about the demon Mare, who allegedly worshiped Dzhiavarman IV, about the mysterious well on top of the pyramid, which leads to hell, is certainly needed to attract tourists to this distant Khmer city. After all, it is necessary to go 80 km only in one direction, and taxi drive services are expensive, so Prang Pyramid - beautiful way solutions to these problems.

It must be recognized that the pyramid itself is very expressive, its height is 35 meters, and the side of the base 60. Previously, the construction was higher, as the Top was standing on the top of Prasat, where there was a gigantic lingam height of more than 4 meters and weighing more than 28 tons. Most likely, the total height of the temple was at least 60 meters.

All the events described occurred in 2012, when the rise to the top of the peranga was categorically prohibited. It was due to the fact that the old wooden staircase leading up, rotted and collapsed, and the rise was associated with a certain risk. Now (in 2014), as far as I know, the staircase is already replaced with a new one, and tourists quietly rise to the top of the pyramid.

But then, we were with my partner, I was waiting for an adventure) in the photo, the pyramid Koch Kera and the remains of the old rotten stairs with the "Stop" tablet below.

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Naturally, I could not allow, because of some prohibitions of local authorities, our study would have broken down the main church of the city. After reading the tourists' reports on the Internet, trying to climb the pyramid to the top, I came to the conclusion that the local guards actively interfere with the rise, besides, as many people who visited Kech, they did not even take money, i.e. Bribed them was impossible. It is clear that the integrity of the protection thing is subjective, but still not worth risking, so it was necessary to have a necessary way of penetration and lifting.

As you know, simple ways to solve problems are almost always the most effective. Therefore, I decided that we would use the sudden factor when the security of the pyramid would not be close, we just stupidly climb up. The temple stands inside a large open yard, shelter from the sun there is nowhere anywhere, the guards are sitting somewhere in a shadow, not closer to one hundred meters, so while they find us and resort, we will already be risening at least half the height of the structure.

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So everything happened. Security reacted only when we were already on top. I honestly thought that they would be lazy to climb us, and they would wait until we go down. But Khmera turned out to be conscientious)

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It turned out that the staircase is not so rotten, just somehow there were no steps, so in these places I just pulled up on my hands, clinging to the legs behind the stones.

Of particular interest is the fact that the wooden staircase has been erected on top of the ancient stone. And they did it not only because many steps collapsed. The fact is that the initial Khmer steps were unsuitable for calm climbing up. The height of the step was a lot more widths, which is unusual for the European, who is used to raise the stairs exclusively feet. On the Khmer stairs, you can cling only clinging for her with your hands, as it goes very cool, and the danger of falling down (there are already many cases of death of tourists in an Angkor on these stairs) from this is the interesting conclusion that temples in an Angkor were not intended for mass visits, there and the area of \u200b\u200binterior rooms is insignificant. Up, in the sanctuary, most likely only the brahman priests were risen, and the whole people crowded downstairs. Which once again proves the closure of the priestly interlayer and her power over the masses of people.

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Nowadays, at the top of Pranga almost nothing left, the temple as such is not there. In order to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow it looked, you can pay attention to a small, almost copy, the pyramids of Koch Kera in an Angkore, next to the temple of Pnto Bakhanng, is the Baxia of the Tiamkron - the construction is erected, too, during the Koch Ker, almost simultaneously with Prang . Only he is slightly less than size and has four stairs, and not one, like here.

At the site of the temple in Koch Kera, some images are the muzzle of Gulod and, probably, Lviv, only they died greatly and threw the grass.

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Once there was a gigantic city. It was built preferably from the tree, so the ruins from it became small. In Koch Kera, in addition to Pranga and Prasat Thota, there are still hundreds of temples, scattered through a large area, but, in most cases, these are small structures, and they are unallowed among trees.

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Now, we proceed to the inspection of the most mysterious object on the top of the pyramid, namely to the entrance to the Outdoor world - in the kingdom of the daemon Mary, as its current lovers of abnormal phenomena and enterprising Khmer guides are written. This is a big well on the top platform. People's Solva says that the unfortunate victims of bloody brahmins rushed into it and other, and so on)

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Unfortunately, I could not normally examine this mine, as it was littered with branches, and Khmer security guards climbed us at the top. There was a bit of time, plus disgusting daylight - too much glare, and my own photos turned out not so. I found a photo of 2014 in the network, when tourists were launched to the top and led the mine to a more or less decent view.

Mine Pyramid Koch Kera.

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Without branches, it looks like not strange, more prosaic - a simple well on the bottom of the square construction of the walls of which are posted from huge blocks, made by holes. These holes were needed to carry these very blocks. Why do you need a room itself above the well, it is difficult to say, most likely, these are the walls of the destroyed Temple-Prasat. It is also possible that it was the cavity where the base of a huge four-meter lingam was inserted, which was famous for this temple. After all, the Hindu Lingam is a very complex design where there is not only a symbol of the male start, but also female - Joni, it is located at the base of the stone phallus and can take a lot of space. Now Lingam is not here, but the cavity where he was inserted, remained.

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As for the wellness itself, there is nothing supernatural. Wells existed in all the temples of the Angkor Empire. For example, the well of a deep-old well was found in the very first pyramid, erected in the Angcard area - this is Prasat Ak. This temple also glorified the cult of Devaradji - the Divine Tsar, i.e. I also had my stone lingam, the well was under his pedestal - as well as here, in Koh Come. As a rule, such mines led to small cameras lined in the depths of the mountainous mountains. Cameras were used to store various ritual items, for example, a statue of King Jayavarman VII was found in such a Bayon repository, but in most cases, when the wells were digging, they did not find anything - or cameras were robbed in antiquity, or simply destroyed. A very deep well was found in Baccon, he cut through the whole pyramid and left below the level of the earth's surface, but in the end, they did not find anything there.

Apparently the tradition of creating secluded reliquaries at the bases of the temples came to Cambodia with Buddhism. Since such storages are very characteristic. buddhistThey stored a scroll with sacred texts, precious statues of buddhas, etc. It can also be assumed that in such chambers the dust of the Krasmated Kambodgi kings could be kept, because almost all the "state" temples of the Angkor were also funeral monuments for their founders. For example, the famous Angkor Wat has become a tomb for the Suryavarman II constructed.

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In the end, Khmer guards got to the top. What was my surprise when they first rushed not to us, but joined the lively source of local obochsesia, i.e. Began to shoot at their phones the home of the well. Apparently the bike of tourist agents have already become religion and deeply entered into the superstitious consciousness of local residents. The well in hell of the Mary's demon himself has already begun to live his own life.

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Interesting person An expression of the face - under the visor of the caps of the eye full of horror, because he looks in the hell of the hellest)

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maximus101
20/08/2014

Koh Ker - one of the most mysterious places Cambodia. Under this name, implies an ancient Khmer city with a unique temple located in the jungle of this country. South-East Asia. For a long time, this mysterious place was hidden from people, and now it is not in a hurry to disclose their centuries-old secrets to the world.

Koh Ker is located in Programvicha Province, just 90 km from the Temples of Angkor, but there are a lot of mines in these places, and tourists who first came to these surroundings only in 2007, there are infrequently. It comes here only the most courageous true lovers of Eastern exoticism, and her here with interest, because Koh Ker is one of the most mysterious places in Southeast Asia.

The mysterious capital of the Khmer Empire

In the 10th century, in just two decades, at the order of Jayavarman IV, who wished to transfer the capital of the kingdom of the Khmer Empire from Angkor to a new place, a new one was erected in the jungle large-scale city, initially called the name of the lingapur. It is this name that meets in most old chronicles, and the name Koh Ker appeared much later.

Oddly enough majestic cityIn which there were up to 100 temples, the capital of the kingdom was not long, and the history of Koh Ker, as well as the life of the initiator of its creation, is full of many mysteries. The most mysterious manner Jayavman IV disappeared, after which the inhabitants of the new capital left these places, and Koh Kerk acquired the glory of the damned place. Nevertheless, in its facilities, this ancient settlement is little less inferior to Angkor, and his unique mysterious temple-pyramid attracts the attention of all connoisseurs of Eastern mysticism.

Unique pyramid in Koh Ker

The total area of \u200b\u200bthe ancient capital of the Khmer kingdom is 35 sq. Cm, but most of the palace complex and Koh Koh Ker churches could not withstand the destructive influence of the time: only ruins remained. However, the larger interest in the ancient complex is a construction that has almost changed the time - unique in all respects the central temple in the form of a 32-meter pyramid consisting of 7 steps. Such an architectural appearance resembles the typical pyramids of Maja and Inca civilizations and is not inherent in Khmer culture at all: no big deal in Cambodia anywhere else.

The temple, the length of the base of the base of which is 55 m, built from massive solid stone blocks, which are so located right to each other, that even the cash bills do not pass between them, but the rocks in the whole district is not found anywhere, and where it took such a building material. Riddle. The locals themselves themselves believe that the Church of the Pyramid was erected by great gods. What is interesting, the famous pyramids in Giza, who also surprise the mysteriousness of their creation, were erected at about the same time as the pyramid in Cambodia.

"Pyramid of Death" - Gate to hell?

It is called a unique sacred structure of Prasat Tom, which means "the Great Temple", but it is more known in the cracked item "Pyramid of Death". The ancient legends of Khmer says that on the top of this strange temple of Vladyka Koch Ker brought bloody sacrifices to the daem of Mara, throwing them into a deep mine, which was an entrance to the other world, where this bloodthirsty demon died. Legends legends, but the realities are such that all desperate researchers who risked to go inside this pyramid, ended their lives very sadly. In addition, many tourists note that in the vicinity of the pyramid Koch Kera, no sounds are not heard - neither birds, no animals, as if everything was extinct here, disappeared with that ancient civilizationwhich elevated this extraterrestrial, even by the standards of contemporaries, construction.

In 2010, Russian diggers managed to go down to the mine, and suddenly it turned out that already at the depth of 8 meters of the mine was covered with sand, although scientists recorded that the emptiness inside the pyramid remained. Apparently, someone tried to hide the entrance to this kingdom of ancient secrets.

Most of the Koh Kerk complex still remains not investigated, because it is quite dangerous to go with a fashionable trail here: the risk to be on mines is very high. By virtue of this, there is also an assumption that, perhaps, not all the facilities Koch Ker are open, and among the jungle somewhere there are old temples, to which people just could not get. And who knows what more secrets keeps this mystical terrain of Cambodia?

One of the most famous sights of Cambodia Koh Ker is located in Programvihery Province, a couple of hours drive from. It is both the city and a large temple complex. More than 10 centuries ago, Koh Ker became the capital of the Khmer Empire and turned into one of its richest cities. In the status of the "Main City", Koh Ker stayed for a long time, only 20 years. Nevertheless, during this period, dozens of temples were built in the city, most of which up to this day, unfortunately, was not preserved.

How to get to Koh Ker

To visit tourists, Koh Ker has opened relatively recently, only in 2002. You can get to this attraction from the nearest airport in Siemreapa, using a taxi service. The cost of a trip from 75 to 100 dollars. By time it will take about 3 hours. Log in to the temple complex only if there is a ticket. Cost 10 dollars.

What is a temple complex

All Territory Koch Kera covers an area of \u200b\u200b35 square meters. meters. Earlier, the city was fenced with high fortress walls, from which almost nothing left. Nearby is a reservoir of Barai Rakhal, which served as a water source in the city. In the rainy season, Rakhal forms big Lake 1 km long. For the first time, hitting Koh Ker, you might think that this is one solid ruin. And indeed most of the local buildings did not endure the tests of time simply turned into a pile of stone. However, there are ker ker and surviving temples in Koch, who almost did not change their appearance to our time.

The main landmark of the temple complex is the Palace of King Jayavarman IV Press Toss. This place is sheavenly mystical legends and giving. In the middle of the palace there is a huge pyramid of Prang, on the top of which the temple was once enealed. In the temple stood a 4-meter statue or how it is called lingams covered with gold. Only the pyramid remained to this day. And the temple and the statue for incomprehensible reasons disappeared without a trace. The height of the pyramid is 32 meters, which is 7 steps. If you believe the legends of local residents, Prang was not created by people, but the great gods. This is supposedly indicated by two undeniable facts. First, a pyramid was built in a unique not characteristic of Cambodia architectural style. Outwardly, it resembles the typical pyramid of Incs or Maya. Secondly, the base of the pyramid is surrounded by massive stone blocks that incomprehensibly come from in this area.

Under the cover of mystery, the legend remains that Jayavarman IV, making a deal with the Mara demon, allegedly spent sacrifices at the top of the pyramid. People then dropped into a deep mine inside the pyramid. Neither refute, nor confirm it until it was possible, since the inside of the press of Tossus still remains unexplored. It costs that you have tried to get inside the pyramids repeatedly, but all attempts ended tragic. After 20 years of their atrocities, the ruler Koch Kera suddenly disappeared. Neither his graves, no remains still found. Following the city left the locals after which, first, the majestic and prosperous Koch Ker was empty and became unnecessary to anyone.
A few meters from the press of Thota is the so-called earthy "Pyramid" - a hill of a white elephant. The natural origin of this Kurgan is very doubtful, as it has a very correct quadriginal form. The excavations on the hill were not carried out, so it is difficult to say exactly what it was used. Most likely, this place was intended for the construction of another pyramid. A trail is laid around the hill along which there are about a dozen churches of the genes. According to the legend, large treasures are hidden somewhere in these places.

After the excursion to the press of Toss in Ko Kell, it is also worth a visit of the ruins of the Temple Press Chen. This shrine has reached this day not in such good condition as pressing in good, but still worthy of your attention. Initially, the temple consisted of their three sanctuations, fenced by a wall of Laterita. Now they remained only inlaid columns, several walls and squeezes depicting a giruda fighting with snakes. Sometime, the shredded the three-meter statue, personifying the battle of driving and valine, rumped up. Unlike the temple, the statue survived and was moved to National Museum in Phnom Pen. Now in the press of Chen about her reminds only a huge stone foundation.

In addition to the above places in Koh Kera, you can still see the ruins of 14 temples, each of which is unique in its own way. There is also a suggestion that far in the jungle Koch Kera is still several temples, which were previously part of the Great Khmer capital.
Koh Ker is the city of secrets and mystics. That is why tourists from all over the world seek to get here in order to try to solve all his riddles.

About which is not very known worldwide. Everyone knows about the Khmer Temple Angkor Wat, and they can also remember about the Muscale Bayon and tell something about the Jungle Cambodia. It would seem that there may still be so interesting? Surprisingly, Cambodia is also a country in which there is its own pyramid, which is located in Koh Ker - the ancient city of Angkor, built at the beginning of the X century, at the dawn of the existence of the Khmer Empire.

I have always been interested in ancient facilities around the world, and therefore I learned about the Cambodian seven-step pyramid, which is also called the pyramid of death, I got interesting to her. And now, in finally, in the city of Siem Rip, in addition to visiting the most important temples of Angkor, it is certainly to get to Koh Ker and see this pyramid of death.

Koh Ker. - This is a city-church city and a huge temple complex in the province of Vichaa 120 km north-east from the city of Siem Rip in Cambodia. In ancient times, he was called Lingapur, that is, the city of Lingi (phallus), and was dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. In this ancient city there are a number of attractions, the main place of which occupies a mysterious pyramid of death Prasat Prang, located on the territory of the main temple of Prasat Tha. In addition to her, there are still many ruins of Khmer temples of the Angkor period - some of them almost completely destroyed and not studied. However, they are all considerable interest, since the era of Koh Ker was special in the history of the Empire of Khmer.

Basic information about Koh Ker

Koh Ker on Google map:

Temple complex Koh Ker. Refers to the so-called distant temples of Angkor. This means that the visit to Koh Ker can take the whole day. Visit Koh Ker will be interested in those who are really fascinated by the history of Cambodia and Angkor.

Despite the fact that construction errors led to the rapid destruction of the pyramid, it is impossible not to recognize the obvious things - some elements of the main temple Prasat Tom served as an example for the construction of the most famous Khmer Temple - Angkor Wata in Cambodia. We are talking about famous long galleries. For the first time, they appeared here, in Koh Ker, then were tested during the construction of Beng Melia, and then in all its glory appeared in the design of Angkor Wat. And seeing how the Prasat Tom collapsed because of the water was collapsed, the builders of Angkor Wata took into account this and made an additional mound from sand and a unique engineering system of soil stabilization with groundwater.

The city of Lingapura

For a long time, the ancient city of Lingapur was in oblivion, but with the beginning of the tourist boom in Cambodia and clearing from mines and jungle, Koch Kech also began to attract the attention of travelers, albeit not on the famous Angkor Wat complex. Residents of the neighboring village Koch Ker lived here in the eyelids great Pyramid And a very simple way of life was conducted, and now take tourists, referring to requests to take them as a guide to earn a little. The name of this village gave a modern name and an ancient city.

Baray around the main sanctuary in Koh Ker

Koh Ker was built during the reign of King Jayavarman IV at the beginning of the X century, which decided to transfer the capital of the empire closer to the village, where he himself was born. Changes in the life of the Khmer Empire began with the struggle for power, which was not crowned with success: Jayavarman left Yashadharapur (so at the time the capital of Angkor was called, and there was now where the temples rowos), proclaimed the real king himself, built a new city of Lingapur, and Rules there for a while. This began a completely unique era in the history of Angkor, who still did not receive a clear explanation in scientific circles.

Compared to another usurpator king in Sri Lanka, the Casapa built not as big, but still an impressive palace on top of a huge cliff. As after the overthrow of Jayabaman IV, he tried to forget about the Singhal Tsar, but his wonderful palace is now very popular among tourists.

The short board of the king of Jayavarman IV ended (justice to say that it continued that it was 20 years 20, and during that time a huge city was built), the capital returned to the past. And, judging by how ease everything was forgotten, no one wanted to remember the Bunte Jayavarman. Lingapur was destroyed not by the hands of conquerors, but fell under his own weight - the main church-pyramid was erected with technical errors.

Prasat Prang, seven-step pinemide, was built as a service for the royal linga, the symbol of God Shiva and the king as his representative on Earth. So happened during the lifetime of the king, and after his death, the pyramid had to become his mausoleum, so it is called Pyramid of death. However, according to scientists, the grave of Jayavarman IV did not find. And the name "Pyramid of Death" still fixed.

When tourists began to be played in Koch Ker, many tried to penetrate inside of curiosity. For many years, there were terrible rumors that strange phenomena are worked inside it. For a long time, no one was decided to get, but finally there were sneakers who violate all the prohibitions were still penetrated inside. According to their stories, there is an empty sarcophague in the center of the pyramid. Which of this can be concluded?

Pyramid of death Koh Ker It was intended to become a posthumous Jayabaman's face and (like Angkor Wat subsequently) performed a double function - was a temple of life during the rule of the king and should have become the place of its transition from one being of Being in other after death. According to the beliefs of the ancient Khmer, it is the seven steps of the pyramid and provide the king the most favorable outcome for rebirth.

How to get to Koh Ker from Siem Rip

Koh Kech Temple Complex is located near the small village of the province of Vicea.

You can come to Koh Ker from Siem Ripa for about 2 hours, but in general, on a tour of this distant Temple of the Angkor, you will need a whole day. There are several options how to get there:

• Order a tour in any of the city's travel agencies with Siem Rip (the more people, the less price will be). In this case, you will be clearly tied to the schedule of excursion. However, this is a significant savings if you are traveling alone. The price for a trip to Koh Ker can be about $ 45.
• Order a car with a driver. It will cost more than more, but it is more profitable if you are two-three. The car costs $ 90-100. Private transfer is good because you are provided to yourself, you can calmly count on time. And you can also combine the trip to Koh Ker with a visit to the Temple of Beng Melia, which is on the way to the death pyramid.
• To come to Koh Ke on your own by renting a motorbike. Rent - $ 15-20, gasoline - $ 5-10.

How to get to Koh Ker

Cost of Koh Ker - $ 10. Tickets to the Angkor Temple Complex do not work here.

Opening hours 7.30 — 17.30.

At the inspection of the city of the temple, the pyramids of death need to be at least 2 hours, and with a lot of interest in the culture of Khmer - 3-5 hours.

Important information: Anyone from the local can get ridiculed as a guide in the hope of earning some money. If you do not want an assistant, then tell me immediately and clearly. Perhaps not from the first time, so from the second-third, they usually understand who they are unprofitable to walk. Particularly intrusive can be children who will also offer you all sorts of postcards, books and souvenirs in the hope of splitting you and get cash dollars.

The road to the pyramid of death passes on dusty rural roads, but most of the way is a new highway from the city of Siem Rip to the St Sun Trench

Card Koh Ker (Clichable)

The ancient city of Koh Ker (Lingapur) occupies a huge area around the artificial pool Rakhal. All tours and excursions from Siem Ripa, driving in the territory, immediately pass to the parking lot, which is located at the main attractions. temple complex Koh Ker - To the far chrome of the Angkor period, Prasat Toss and Step-pyramid Prasat Prang.

The attractions of the ancient city of Koh Ker (Lingapura):

• Prasat Tom - The main temple of the city was built even earlier than Jayavarman suffered here the capital.
• Prasat Krakh - This is a red brick temple, which is reflected in his name, which is translated from the Khmer "Red Tower".
• Prasat Prang. - Seven-step pyramid, the burial place of the king and storage of the linga, part of the Prasat Tha temple.
• Grave Hill White Elephant - The hill and sanctuary behind the pyramid from which views of the surroundings and Prasat Prang pyramid are opening.
• Numerous prasati with lingami along the road. Standing visits - It is Balang, TNeng, Krachap, Chrap and Damrey.
• Prasat Pram - Five kharma towers at the ground level, accused by root trees.
• Swimming pool Rakhal. It is filled with water only in the rainy season.

Map of the main sanctuary of the ancient city of Lingapur

Entering the territory of Prasat Toss, you immediately meet the samples of future long galleries, which will glorify Angkor Wat for the whole world. The great sanctuary is in ruins, but many elements are visible and amazed by ideas.

For the construction of the city, a variety of material was used - sandstone, lathe and brick. All three are presented here in all its glory. The walls are made of fragile laaterite, and some of the prasatov, including high prasat, are built of bricks. The main buildings are constructed from durable sandstone blocks of rather impressive sizes.

Prasat Tha and Prasat Prang are separated from each other with the walls of Laterite decorated with small lingas around the perimeter. Famous ficuses, scenters, adorning the more famous temples of the Angkor - that prom and that catfish, here also tried and approached the wall of the temple, even in some places of the roots. However, the complete right to win was presented.

The ficuses of the scenters were blocked on the wall, but did not break it

Due to illegal penetrations in Prasat Prang and general unsuccession some time ago on pyramid of death It was forbidden to climb, and the only staircase leading up was closed for tourists. However, by 2016, another staircase was built, and Prang was strengthened, and now curious travelers can climb upstairs and look around.

The stone pyramid can be accessed from all sides, striking her durable masonry, which still keeps the whole design, despite the fact that the internal levels failed. The outer wall seems to be impenetrable. Behind the pyramid is the funeral hill of a white elephant, to which you can climb and look at high prang not only from the level of land, but also with a small elevation of height.

Old unreliable staircase

View of Prasat Prang from a nearby hill - a funeral hill of a White Elephant - Even in the dry season of the pyramid is covered with grass

Lingapur was distinguished by giantism: everything was the biggest and more here than the neighbors - the city is more (occupied the territory of 35 km 2), the pyramid above (36 meters), the linga on the top of Prasat Pranga is also more (4 meters), linga in the city - more . And even stones from which the pyramid was built, they differ in a large size compared to the rest of the buildings in an Angkore (including those that were built later). Angkor Wat then surpassed Koch Ker only in two indicators - height (42 meters) and the length of galleries.

Interesting fact: By the way, the reason for the collapse of the pyramid Koh Ker was not the size of the stones, but the wooden floors, which were rotten and stopped maintaining stone walls. The same happened with other temples, where the stones were not so huge. They also collapsed due to common mistakes of Khmer architects.

There is an opinion that Khmer temples can be compared with the Incanic software and the construction method. However, in my opinion, Incan temples and buildings in Peru differ from Cambodian fundamentally. Yes, the size of the stones especially during the construction of Koh Ker was similar, the laying is very reliable. However, the fatal mistake allowed the temple to collapse, which would not happen if the ancient Khmers came up with how to build from stone without wooden beams, such as in Peru, in Egypt or when erecting other megalithic structures around the world.

This is the most important difference (there are other, of course), not allowing to put the temples of the Angkor in one row with other incredible megalitic structures of antiquity. Usually, looking at the "temples" of the Incas, it is impossible not to wonder: how it was built, why is it still worth it, despite the earthquake, whether this man is in force (more precisely, to those technologies that humanity owns)? In the case of Khmer temples, everything is extremely clear: a person make it capable, and we see how it turned out or did not work out.

In Cambodia, we see the logical history of architecture (and if you are interested in getting acquainted with the temples of Angkor in the sequence as they are built, read the materials on our website). In Peru, methods and technology appear ready, there is no development, only perfection and incomprehensible logic. Compare with, for example. And Cambodia is alive - with errors, wonders and beauty. And apparently this is the admiration of any of the temples of Angkor and Koh Ker in particular.

Prasat Prang on the territory of Prasat Thota. And we usually call this miracle of the death pyramid Koh Ker

Low level stones Pyramid

Prasati with lingami in Koh Ker

Around Baraya Rakhal built numerous prasati small magnitude compared to the main pyramid, in which are also stored lingi.. If you compare them with the royal ling, which stood on top of Prasat Pranga and according to scientists estimates there were 4-4.5 meters in height, then these linga seem rather small. However, they are still larger than any ling found on the territory of other Temples of Angkor. Jayavman definitely wanted to make his city the most majestic and did not regret it for this.

It must be recognized, the idea was ambitious, but the technical side and technology of Khmer civilization were not ready for such construction feats.

Lingi even small prasatov more than on the territory of other Temples of Angkor. What can we talk about a 4-meter ling that stood on top of Prasat Pranga?

Our impressions

A visit to the ancient city of Koh Ker in Cambodia can give an indelible impression. After all, the unique period in the history of Angcard, during which the Lingapur was built is clearly allocated in the logical and consistent history of the Khmer Empire. The structure of the seven-step pyramid of death cannot be compared with other temples-mountains, like Baggon, Non Buckeng, Bapuon or erected later, East Mebbit or Tao. Giant sizes of the city could then repeat only Giavarman VII, built monasterial temples at sunset empire. But the parallel can be carried out only in scale of work, but the giantism of megalithites and the size of the buildings were not beaten.

As we have already spoken, with such structures in Peru compare no sense. And what about the pyramids of Mexico and Egypt? Cambodian death pyramid is inferior in sizes and materials, but according to the function coincides - according to Khmer (Hindu) cosmogony, the transition from one being of being to another. Apparently for this reason, the form of the pyramid was important, and this unites many cultures from each other around the world.

For us, this pyramid became the first one, which we saw during our trip to Cambodia, and therefore, of course, is still special. Ancient monument It is very close to the small village, and the ruins of the Khmer Temple serve as local residents as a place for meetings and recreation. Small and dilapidated houses of actual beggar Cambodians stand in close proximity.

It is known that in Lingapore, residential buildings were also built of wood and therefore were not preserved. But it seems to be, they had to differ from modern housing. This contrast is particularly pronounced in memory. Residents of the once of the capital of the powerful kingdom have undergone so much suffering since then and can not recover, living on the poorest conditions.

Does the alms with the kids in Koh Ker - this is each decides for himself. To begging here is not very accepted, maybe because the place is not very spoiled by tourists. The more tourists come (mainly organized tours From China), the more Koh Ker will look like the most visited and popular temples of Angkor, where sometimes they will not push back from children's pens with requests to give a dollar.

Resting in the shadow of ancient ruins

We visited Koh Ker in hot march and arrived by car, which seems to me the most convenient way to travel to the distant temples of Angkor. The pyramid in each season is transformed. In the dry season, the Red Earth gives a special charm ancient buildings. In the rainy season, the road used to be difficult, but now after the construction of the highway, this problem is not relevant. A lot of herbs grows on the pyramid, and it becomes green. The unity of nature and human buildings appears quite in another key, rather than the roots of the temples like that lamb or Beng Melia.

Very surprised how many megaliths are lying on the territory of Koh Ker. Megalithic masonry in Asia is not so much: besides Koh Ker, you can remember some buildings in. Sandstone for the construction of the Temples of Angcard was mined on Mount Kulen, located 60 km (in a straight line). Typically, the material was delivered by rivers, however, the size of the stones inspires respect for the builders.

We really liked the pyramid, we tried to spend here as much time as possible, despite the heat, we went around it several times. However, I still regret that as soon as I climbed into the air-conditioned car, a little softening and with not very big enthusiasm inspecting prasats with lingami. I think that it was necessary to visit them at the very beginning of the visit.

Nevertheless, one of the most expensive impressions and memories of Cambodia we were taken away from Koh Ker. Here one of my children's dream came true - to see the pyramid! So despite the distance of the trip and quite significant spending within budget travel, Visit to Kok Ker acquitted all expectations and cost their efforts.

What else you need to know about Koh Ker

Cost of excursion from Siem Rip to Koh Ker:for a visit to Koh Ker, we paid $ 100 for a car and $ 20 for two tickets. Align this trip with a visit to the temple Beng Melia, we saved a little. We returned to Siem Rip in front of the sunset, rested and went to the night market.

Helpful advice: If the cost of a trip by car to the far temples of the Angcard seems to you big, find travelers and divide the costs of renting a car with a driver.

Observation: Next to the main entrance to Prasat Tha and Parkovka there is a market with souvenirs. Here you can buy water.

Tips and recommendations on an excursion to the pyramid in Cambodia

• Koh Ker is best viewed from the morning, after 10 hours already very hot. Therefore, it is better to leave as early as possible from Siem Ripa. You can sleep in the car.
• Walk first through Prasat Thham, and only then go to the death pyramid.
• Do not forget to ask the driver to stop almost immediately after entering the territory of the temple complex to inspect Prasat Mr., famous for the fact that on its territory there are five wounded trees of prasati from red bricks.
• Prasata with lingami usually inspect on the way back, as they are on the far loop ring road Rahan's pool around the pool. However, if you want your impressions of the ancient city to be blocked in the shadow of the pyramid, ask to stay at Prasat Mrum, then drove through the main lingons, and only then visit the ruined Prasat Tha and, finally, Prasat Prang's pyramid.
• Climb the hill of a white elephant, but the distance between the hill and the pyramid is not so big to viewpoint impressed. And the hill is not higher than the pyramid. However, there is still an alternative to inspection from the ground level!
Angkor in different periods of history