It is difficult to imagine that the words "Jomolungma", "Everest", "Peak XV", "Sagramatha" is the names of the same mountain, the highest point on the planet. To date, the height of Everest is 8848 meters, and this is not the ultimate figure - according to scientists, the peak increases annually by 5 mm.

Everest height. Description of the object and general information

On the planet rushes upwards among the eternal snow of the Himalayan mountain chain on the border of the two states: China and Nepal. Nevertheless, it is believed that the peak itself is located on the territory of the Middle Kingdom.

One of the names is "Jomolungma" - in Tibetan, it sounds very beautiful "mother of the wind" or, according to some other data, "Mother of the Life Force". The Nepalese are used to calling her "Sagarmatha", which means "Mother of the Gods".

The name "Everest" for us in 1856 was suggested by the Englishman Andrew in 1856, who at that time was the successor to Evertest, the head of the geodesic department in British India. Prior to that, in Europe, the mountain was called "Peak XV".

It is noteworthy that from the Nepalese side to immediately see Everest, it is unlikely to be able to be leaving from the outside world of Nuptsze and Lhotse, whose height is not less impressive and is 7879 m. And 8516 m, respectively.

The most courageous and endless adventurers rose to the peak of Cala Pattar or Gokio Ri to admire the top of the world and make breathtaking pictures.

Everest height. History of climb

This mountain attracted and continues to attract climbers from all over the world. Without exaggeration, it can be said that Everest became the place of "pilgrimage" of climbers. Every year here hundreds of climbers who seek, if not to visit the top, then at least with their own eyes look at the mountain legend.

Everest is considered difficult for climbing: peak has a pyramid shape with a sharp slope from the south side. At an altitude of 5 thousand meters, the glaciers end, and on the steep slopes of the mountain snow and is not delayed at all.

For the first time, the mountain was able to conquer at the end of May 1953. The team consisted of thirty people who were used - without them it is impossible. After almost 30 years, Soviet climbers climbed the southeastern wall. Especially distinguished the Ukrainian athletes M.Turkevich and S. Bershov - they committed the first night ascent.

Today, according to the latest statistical data, about 3,000 climbers from all over the planet have already managed to visit Everest. Unfortunately, about 200 athletes did not let go of the mountain - they died: someone on climbing, someone when descending from lack of oxygen, frostbite or heart failure, some fell or hit avalanche.

This is once again proves that on such routes, as a rule, the decisive role plays not at all expensive and modern equipment, but a concomitant luck, which can protect the traveler from falls and hurricanes that demolish everything in their path.

Everest height. How realistic to be in the vicinity of the Great Mountain?

Year by year the number of such untouched seatsAs Himalayas, the planet does not increase. Each recovered on the conquest of the vertex will certainly be among the unspoiled civilization and scientific progress of the original places.

Everest is a height for those who seek to conquer insurmountable. But, as they say, there is nothing impossible in this world, the main thing is to want. For many years, the giant-mountain is striking with its greatness, impressive threshing and attracts millions of adventure seekers. Although far from everyone goes to the peak itself. Why do they come to Everest? The photo taken at the foot or in the foothills, and the atmosphere itself is hardly able to leave someone indifferent. In addition, international settings are held every year, the basic camps are established and the dating evenings are arranged.

Those who certainly want to see the Earth from the highest point of the planet, it is necessary to hire a guide or get into the special group. However, I would immediately want to warn that this pleasure is not cheap - the cost of ascent will cost 45-60 thousand dollars.

Trying to answer the question: where is Everest and in which country it will be necessary to tell a lot. Everest is in the Himalayas, everyone knows. But what they imagine, not many know.

Yes, and with Everest himself, not everything is simple, since the immediate peak of Everest is located in the PRC, but you can get to her not only from China. After all, the base of the mountain is located on the territory of the two countries - Nepal and China. Accordingly, the conquest routes come from different sides.

The location of Everest.

In the southern part of Central Asia, the north of the Bengal Bay, the separating Peninsula of the Industan and Indochina, is huge mountain array The highest on the entire planet.

These are Himalayas, where there are 10 of the 14 highest mountains in the world, whose height exceeds eight thousand meters. The four remaining eighties are in the Karakorum system, which adjoins Tibet from the west. Both Mountain Systems of Himalayas and Karakorum include several mountain ranges that are simultaneously in different countriesah and are the boundaries of their territories. In the Himalayas, these are ridges: Mahalangur Himal, Kanchenjang, Dhaulagiri, Manaslo, Nangarbat, Annapurna and Langtang. For different sides of the insurmountable ridges, people lived not only from different nationalities, but also of different lifestyles, different faith and speaking different languages. And naturally "their" mountains they called in their own way, without even thinking that people who live on the other side gave them "their" names.

It happened to the biggest mountain ridge "Mahalangur Himal" on one side of which the Nepalese lived, and in the other Tibetans. Moreover, the Nepalese, and Tibetans, not even knowing that between them is the highest mountain range and the highest mountain in the world, deified this vertex. Tibetans called her Jomolungma, which means "Holy Mother" or "Goddess - Mother of the Earth", this name was given by Sherab Zhambama, the goddess of the National Religion of Tibetans. The Nepalese called the Mount Jomo Kang Car, which means the "Lady of White Snow".

Where is Mount Everest?

Everest is nothing more than the highest part of the Mahalangur Himal Range, a mountain range called Khumba Himal. And these are a few vertices, the two are the highest of which are the main.

Oddly enough, but to understand where Everest is located, being almost in close proximity to it, it is quite difficult. This is due to the fact that Everest is surrounded highest peaks. Herself - the main, the northern peak of Everest has the shape of a three-headed pyramid. The southern slope of its slope is sharper, so there is a freshly fallen snow on the slope and his ribs and even last year's blackened, called firty, is not delayed, therefore this side is usually naked. The height of the northeastern ridge is 8393 meters.

• From the south side of Everest, through the South Saddle Pass 7906 m high, there is a peak of Lhotse - 8516 meters, which is sometimes called an erroneous southern vertex.
• From the north, behind the steep northern sealer, 7020 m is peak Changze - 7543 meters.
• In the east, the massif is a completely impassable steep cloud wall Kangshung - it is 3350 meters of almost sheer cliff.

The height of Everest himself from the foot to the peak is just the same amount - 3550 meters. From the array in all directions, glaciers approach that ending at an altitude of about 5 km. Part of Jomolungma located on the territory of Nepal is part of the National Nepal Park of Sagarmatha.

The name of the highest mountain in the world

It is noteworthy that the name itself high mountain In the world - Jomolungma writing was first recorded on the map in 1717. This card was performed by French Jesuit Missionaries, in those days visited Tibet. However, the card was a schematic card, it did not have altitudes and did not receive a broad publicity and the name of Jomolungma did not attract the attention of geographers of that time.

European name Mountain - Everest, appeared much later. At the beginning of the XIX century in India, then the British colony, the Royal Geographical Society began to conduct solid geodesic surveys. In the British East India Company, which conducted this examination served George Everest. Having dedicated to the service of more than 37 years from 1806 to 1843 at the post of chief geodesist of India, George Everest almost from scratch created Indian geodesy and cartography. For that in 1827, he became a member of the Royal Geographical Society. He served to the title of Colonel George Everest in 1843 he returned to his homeland and continued to work in the Royal Geographical Society. For special merit in 1861, he was awarded the knightly title. And from 1862 to 1865, he was the vice president of the Royal Geographical Society.

After himself in India, George Everest left a worthy receiver Andrew in who continued his work. Prior to that, maps of almost all of India were created. Of great interest were represented mountain areasForesting nordes, there were the highest peaks of the mountain range. However, since the territory of Nepal was then closed for foreigners, the geodesists carried out measurements at a distance. Available in their disposal geodetic devices already then allowed to do it.

Andrew, in his gifted Bengali Mathematics of Radhanat Sikdar, who received education in Calcutta and on the recommendation of the Titler College Teacher, at the 19th age, adopted by George Everest on the expedition to the position of "computing" with a meager salary of 30 rupees per month. As a shortest time, Sikdar recommended itself as a specialist with a high level of geodesic skill. With that, it was he who created new techniques for studying heights at a distance. By the way, among his merit was the formula for the transfer of the renovation of the barometer taken at different temperatures to 32 degrees in Fahrenheit, which is used now.

In 1852, Andrew was instructed by Sikdar to measure snow peaks in the Darjling area where the British built a mountain station and near the peak of Kanchenjang (8598 m), which was then considered the highest in the whole mountain system of Himalayas. After six-time measurements from various positions, Sikdar came to the conclusion that the height is almost 200 kilometers from Darzhling the height indicated on the map as a peak XV above the peak of Kanchenzhanga for as many as 250 meters. It turned out that the height of the peak XV is 8848 meters above sea level and this peak is the highest on Earth. He reported to his leader. However, this information was published only after a few years, after multiple checking and reconciliation with other sources.

According to the rules established by George Everest, this grief needed to give a local name. However, neither Andrew in nor his staff knew as it was called and therefore giving the tribute to his former head Andrew proposed to call this peak with the name of George Everest. With this name and the latest created card in Britain was sent to the Royal Geographical Society. And the peak of XV was officially assigned to Everest.

This name was not perceived for quite a long time in the Soviet Union and on the maps published in the USSR, this pinnie was almost until 1985 as Jomolungma. Also, the Government of Nepal did not recognize the Chinese name Jomolungma and in 1965 the Nepalese gave him his own name "Sagramatha" meaning "heavenly vertex". This confusion existed until recently, until a compromise was found in the cartographic world. Now on modern maps, the entire mountain range is called Jomolungma, and the top of 8848 m height is indicated as Everest (Sagarmatha). The territory adjacent to the peak north of Kathmandu with an area of \u200b\u200b1148 square kilometers since 1976 declared the Sagarmatha National Park.

History of conquest

It is believed that mountaineering as a sport appeared from the moment of the first ascent to the Mont Blanc Michel-Gabriel Pakcarde and Jacques Balma, which was 8 August 1786. Since then on August 8, the world is celebrated as the International Alpinist Day. And although the height of the Montblan is only 4810 meters, at that time it was a feat. And at the same time, it was starting to conquer higher peaks. Many followers of Michel and Jacques, who, despite the deadly dangers, the lack of experience and the necessary equipment, began to rise to the famous peaks, understood everything higher and higher. So in 1799 A.Gamboldt rose to the peak of Chimbora O 5800 meters high in South America. In 1829, the expedition conductor of the Russian Academy of Sciences Killar Khashirov alone rose to Elbrus 5642 meters high. In 1907, T.Longstaff and X. Belocrelli conquered the seven thousandth trisul 7123 m.

So one after another were conquered by all European peaks, and then all the well-known peaks of America, Africa, New Zealand. But on this, desperate coughs did not stop. A dream appeared to climb the "roof of the world," so dubbed the climbers of the Himalayas and including the highest mountain of our planet - Peak Everest. Attempts to climb the peaks of Himalayas and Karakorum was a lot. With that, teams of different countries "mastered" and different peaks. So the Germans tried to conquer Kanchenjangu and Nanga-Parbat, Americans and Italians stormed Choiri, and the British stubbornly tried to take Everest.

The British Geographical Society specifically created the Essrest Committee, whose task was to organize expeditions to Everest. The wandering plan for the highest mountain of the world was developed in 1893, but the first time they tried to rise to Everest only in 1921. At that time, Nepal Maharaja Rules Chandra Shamscher from the Rana family and any climbing climbing of foreigners were prohibited. Tibetans also did not immediately agreed to let the British on their territory and only at the insistence of the vice-king of India, Dalai Lama agreed to admit the English expedition to Jomolungma. Therefore, it was decided to storm Everest not from the Nepalese side, but from the north, from Tibet. The item where the expedition was equipped was the city of Darjeling, in West Bengal. From Darzhingling, the route ran first to the northeast, to get drunk from the east, and then in the territory of Tibet west along the Nepalese border. A total of 500 km away from Darzhilling to the foot of Everest, the expedition took almost 500 km.

He led the first expedition in 1921, Colonel Howard Buries. In the expedition besides climbers, a geologist and two topograph participated. This expedition turned out to be a reconnecting, which determined the route by which it is possible to get to the foot of Jomolungma, which would then rise to the peak. In addition, due to the characteristics of the climate, the most convenient time of the year was established to avoid winds and monsoon, as well as the condition of the snow allowing. According to their calculations, the ascent needs to be performed only in a period of relatively stable meteorological conditions, that is, in May - June (before monsoon) and in September - November (after monsoon). Here they are the participants of the 1921 expedition. Left-right stand: A.F.R. Wollaston, Charles Howard-Bury, Alexander Heron, Harold Raeburn sitting: George Mallory, Oliver Wheeler, Guy Bullock, Henry T. Morshead.

The second expedition was organized in 1922, the way was tried at the end of May. He led the expedition General Bruce. On the route scheduled in 1921, from Darzhling to the site of the rise, everything you need to delivered on the pack yaks, and then to the lower camp at the foot of Everest, Tibetans suffered all the property on themselves. Further, the role of porters performed the Nepalese from the Sherpa tribe, living in the mountains and familiar to the discharged air. The Sherpa tribe later began to provide all Himalayan expeditions by conductors and porters, which was their profession.

The raise route was determined by the Rongbuck glacier, then along the slope on the northern saddle, where the intermediate camp was installed, and then on the northern ridge and the northern slope. During the first attempt, 8138 m rose to the height of 8138 m. During the second attempt, 8321 m. To the top left for another 519 m, which horizontally ranged only 1 km. But a strong wind climbed, besides, Bruce's main climbers and Finch, despite oxygen apparatus, a mountain illness developed and they had to go down to the lower camp.

On June 6, the last attempt was made to raise from the lower camp to the Northern Saddle. There were 3 climbers and 14 shareholders' storms on the assault. They walked in four bundles. The upper two ligaments were not injured, and 7 sherpov died in the lower. This tragedy once again confirmed the correctness of the assumption of Howard Burents that the climbing on the avalanchestone slopes after the start of the monsoon is very dangerous.

The next attempt to climb the highest mountain in the world was undertaken in 1924 the expedition was again headed by General Bruce. However, in the way, he fell ill with malaria and a group of climbing supervised Norton. Like the last time, Sherpowers raised all the necessary equipment on the northern comb to the height of 8170 m. They staged the upper camp and began to climb from him. Two Norton and Sommervell went to the assault. Went without oxygen apparatuses. At an altitude of 8540 M Sommervell stopped unable to go further. Norton alone rose to the height of 8573 m. And also refused to further rise. Alpinee, heavily frostbed, with great difficulty descended to the upper camp, and then with the help of Sherdo.

In the same year, the Year of Engulticians Mellory and Irwin tried to recover once again. Walked with oxygen devices. But they just have suffered a failure. After about the height of 8500 meters, they died, most likely having broken from the rocks. During the expedition in 1933, ice ax belonging to one of them was found at this height. The expedition was extremely unsuccessful because another Englishman and one of the Tibetans-porters died. After Everest took the life of the best English climbers, no one had decided to repeat their attempts. These are these crisp pioneers: on the left of Irwin and Mallory, sits the third left Somerwell.

After the whole Dalai Lama, it was forbidden to spend these attempts and only in 1933 the Essrest Committee had achieved an expedition to Everest.

Participants in the first expeditions could not participate in this, the expedition headed Rattland, and almost all of the team was new. The rise was carried out along the same route through the North Saddle. Sherpi raised all the cargo to the height of 8350 m, from where the rise was started. As a result of the two attempts, the height of 8565 m was achieved. Then, due to the strongest winds, the assault was decided to stop.

In the same 1933, the British organized an expedition through Everest on the plane, before that, no airplane tried to do this. Two biplanes of the company "Westland" participated. The first P.V.3 (G-Acaz) managed Marcus Douglas, and the supervisor flew the lieutenant colonel Steward Blakeker. The second is Westland P.V.6 Wallace (G-acbr) - piloted David Makintyre, with him in the back cabin flew the photographer Sidney Bonnet. Airplanes were aerial photography for mapping. The crews had oxygen devices. The warm clothes were protected from the cold. During the second flight, aeronautics were made.

In 1934, a 34-year-old Englishman Maurice Wilson, whom many considered not quite normal did an attempt to commit an approach to Everest. He imagined that it is possible to climb Everest only after a three-week post, during which a person will purl from earthly bad and strengthen the body and spirit. Initially, he wanted to fly to Everest on the plane, sit on his slope, and then climb to the top of foot. But in India, the British authorities detained his plane.

Then he with three Conductors sherpami, changing into Tibetan clothes, reached Everest on foot. He managed to rise to the third basic camp of early expeditions, from where he did several attempts to climb. But since he did not have any experience of the mountaineering, the mind did not succeed. Seeing this, Sherpi gone. Left alone and feeding the balances of food of the previous expedition, he continued his attempts that were in vain. As a result, he is in this third base camp and frozen. His remains and diary found members of the next expedition in 1935.

Such attempts to penetrate Tibet and climb to Everest without permission of the authorities after that were made twice. So in 1947, Canadian Denman with Porters got to the third camp, but could not even climb even the northern saddle. The same fate suffered and Danchanin Larsen in 1951. By the way, Denman's conductor had Sherp Tencing Norki, which later in 1953 participated in a victorious climb and was first rose to peak.

In 1935, another English expedition was organized under the Shipton team. The purpose of this expedition was not the lift to the top, and the clarification of the conditions on the slopes during the monsoon, is it not compacted on the slopes of the snow? In July, they climbed the northern saddle, but seeing that part of the slope was demolished by avalanche, refused further attempts. But he did not lose time for the gift and in two months and safely carried out the rise of 26 vertices located around Everest, including five of which exceeded 7000 m.

In 1936, Rattland and Shipton with the team again tried to climb Everest from the north. Climbing took place in spring. They safely climbed up their former route to the northern saddle, but unusually early, the monsoon was blunt on April 22, and when attempting to Sedlovna Shipon, a miracle saved from the fatal avalanche. Climbing had to stop.

1938, the new English expedition under the leadership of Tilman again goes to the assault of Everest. Preparation was carried out especially carefully. Six camps were organized on the route. In the upper sixth camp at an altitude of 8290 m. Sherpi porters raised all the cargo. However, heavy snow went and a deep bulk snow cover was formed, which filled all the ice clefts and the depressions, and he also hit a heavy frost, so the rise to the top had to cancel.

Then the second began World War And it was not up to the raises. And after the war, the Government of Tibet has not long made permission to conduct an expedition. And only in 1950 under the pressure of the British government, Nepal was allowed to conduct expeditions on their territory. Since 1950, the British and French have been equipped with an expedition to study East Nepal. And in the same year, the French Moriso Erzog and Louis Loumenal conquered the first eight-thousandnacar annipurn height of 8075 meters.

In 1950, Americans joined the studies. In the autumn of 1950, the American Expedition in which the Englishman Tilman participated, went to Everest from the south and carefully examined his southern slopes. The approach from the south to the sole of Everest was much more complicated than the northern, but the site above 7000 meters on the contrary is easier and on the conclusion of the expedition to the assault peak from the south side could be successful.

In the following 1951, the Essrest Committee equipped the expedition under the Shipton team to explore the possibility of lifting Everest from the south. As a result of long-term difficult searches, a route was chosen through the left branch of the Khumba glacier, on the southern saddle and then to the top of the southeast ridge. However, this expedition itself, the ascent did not accomplish because of the searches convenient place For the climb, it was taken too much time and winter was already nearer.

In 1952, the Swiss expedition went on this route under the beginning of Wiss Dunean. In addition to climbers, Geologist, Botanist and Ethnographer participated in the expedition. They safely rose to the southern saddle and went on the southeast ridge. At 8405 meters, the upper camp was arranged, in which Swiss Lambert and Sherp Tencing Norki rested and the next day went up. However, it was possible to rise only to an altitude of 8600 m, because they refused oxygen devices and they had to stop climbing. In the autumn in the same year, the Swiss repeatedly attempted to climb, but frost more than 40 ° and strong wind on the southeast crest did not allow to continue the rise. In addition, one Sherp died during the descent.

The first conquers of Everest

At that time, the concept of which the ascent to the highest mountains of the world was proof of the advantages and priority of a certain nation. Therefore, each country individually has been equipped with its expeditions to the highest peak. But given that the Government of Nepal allowed to conduct foreigners only one expedition per year, and teams of different countries had their ascent experience, it was decided to create an international expedition. The British Everest Committee proposed to take part in the expedition to the most famous climbers of other countries, including New Zealandc Edmund Hillary and Sherpe Tencing Norki, who last year rose to the lamb to the height of 8600 m.

John Hunt was appointed head of the expedition. In total, the expedition included about 400 people, including 20 Sherpov and 362 carrier conductors, because the weight of the property to be delivered to the place of ascent was more than 10,000 pounds. Tensing led the porters, as well as himself was a porter and a member of the climbing group.

The climb began in the spring. Already in March was installed basic camp, Slightly the weather at an altitude of 7890 meters. Final camp. John Hunt appointed two groups of major climbers: the first group - Tom Burdillon and Charles Evans, the second group of Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Nughei. Edmund Hillary wanted to go not with tension, but in a pair with his friend George Low and only after long persuasion agreed.

On May 26, Burdillon and Evans went first on the assault, but in the way the Evans refused the oxygen apparatus, and also blew a storm wind and snowed, they were forced to return. Two days the weather did not let go of a new attempt. And only on May 28, Hillary and tension with three accompanying drove into the path. 8500 meters installed a tent, it was the eighth assault camp. The accompanying returned down, and Hillary and Tencing remained overnight in the tent.

In the morning it turned out that Hillary, who took off the shoes for the night and put them under his head, they were completely outlared and it took them to be unwracted over the flame of primus and spread. When Hillary could have worked on six hours thirty minutes, it was time to trim into the path. This is how the Tencing described in his memoirs "was 29 May half of the seventh in the morning. The air is transparent, silence. We pulled on the hands of three pairs of gloves: first flush, then woolen, and on top of them are tarpaulin. Cats were on their feet, and on the backs - oxygen devices, weighing sixteen kilograms. I tagged four flags on the ice ax: Nepal, India, United Nations and the UK. In the pocket of the jacket lay a small blocked piece of color pencil of my daughter. "

On the route went alternately by changing, then one was followed, then another. The rise to the southern peak was a solid snowy wall from loose snow, which constantly crumbled. The legs then sculpted, every minute you could ride down, it was the most difficult part of the path. To nine o'clock climbed to the southern vertex. It remained to go through only 300 feet in a narrow ridge, on the left and right of which the abyss of more than 8,000 feet depth, and between them a narrow comb. Slowly, indenting each other, went on the row. The last obstacle was a huge rock on the ridge. We hardly climbed to the rock and disappeared a little. After that, there were several snow inflatables overcome, found themselves on the last snowdrift for which no longer except the blue sky. It was a vertex. The clock was shown 11 hours 30 minutes.

At the top, they stayed only 15 minutes. During this time, they installed flags, Hillary photographed tensing. Photo Hillary on top is not. Whether Tencing could not use the camera, or Hillary himself did not want to be photographed not clear. Well, the Tencing also put in the snow pencil daughter Nima and Candy Kullychek, as an offer to the gods. Already descending down, Hillary and tensing took a picture together. Here is a photo that flew around the whole world

Heroes of this expedition received world recognition. Queen Elizabeth II, I received this news on my coronation day, pleased Edmund Hillary and John Khanta Knight's title. Tencing Norki was awarded the Medal of St. George. They said that his Elizabeth II wanted to make a knight, but since he belonged to the lowest caste of Sherpov, Javaharlal Nehru, who was at that time the Prime Minister of India, forbade Tencing to receive a knightly title.

But the King of Nepal Mribun awarded the tension by the Higher Order of Nepal - the Nepalese star and gave his personal aircraft to his order, on which the tension along with the family flew in New Delhi. And then tolding with his wife was in London at the reception at the queen. After that, in Darjeeling, a school of high mountain climbership was founded by the head of which became Tencing Norki.

The fate of the heroes has developed in different ways. Tencing Norki no longer participated in the ascents. The climbing school was transformed into the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering and Tenching until 1976 was its director. In 1976 he retired. He also visited in the Soviet Union.

Sir Edmund Hillary after conquering the third pole of the land took up a polar research. He led the New Zealand expedition to Antarctica. In 1958 he headed the first expedition to the southern pole. In 1960, organized the creation of the New Zealand base "Scott BaseB" in Antarctica. Returning in 1960, Nepal was engaged in issues of social security inhabitants of Nepal. He helped build schools, hospitals. Organized the construction of two airfields, which served as the development of tourist business in Nepal. Taking advantage of great authority from the Nepalese government, organized the creation in the foothills of Everest national ParkFor that later he was awarded the title of "Honorary Citizen Nepal". Until the end of his life, Edmund Hillary was engaged in environmental protection issues and humanitarian assistance to the population of Nepal.

The team of Soviet climbers for the first time rose to Everest in 1982, she became the 25th expedition, which was able to climb to the top. The national team of the USSR team, which was to climb Everest, 17 of the best athletes were selected.

Climbers for climbing were divided into four teams:

1. Edward Myslowsky, Nikolai Chirny, Vladimir Babyberdin, Vladimir Shopin;
2. Valentin Ivanov, Sergey Efimov, Mikhail Turkevich, Sergey Borshov;
3. Yervand Ilinsky, Sergey Chepchev, Kazbek Valiev, Valery Chrishta;
4. Vyacheslav Onishchenko, Valery Khomutov, Vladimir Puchkov, Alexey Moskaltsov, Yuri Hunger.

The ascent was carried out on a more complex route from the southwestern side, previously for which no one was trying to rise. The preparation time was almost a month and a half. On March 21 at an altitude of 5340 m, the main basic camp was equipped, from which the processing of routes and the preparation of high-altitude camps began. Only by May 3, routes were processed and six camps were equipped: March 21 an intermediate camp at an altitude of 6100m; March 22, 1 camp at an altitude of 6500m; March 31, 2 camp at an altitude of 7350m; April 12 3 camp at an altitude of 7850m; March 18 4 camp at an altitude of 8250m and May 3 assault camp at an altitude of 8500m. When everything was carefully prepared by the teams went to the peak assault.

They walked with a break in time, so the two groups rose to the peak at night. Several climbers were injured. In total, 11 people rose on peak.

On the self high mountain The Soviet flag was established in the world, and the USSR government reported that the climbing group of Soviet climbers on Everest was devoted to the 60th anniversary of the USSR.

All participants in the expedition received the title of well-deserved masters of sports. On this route no longer went any expedition.

Russian climbers have more than once visited the highest top of the world. So in 1990 in the "Expedition of the World" organized by the American Jim Whittaker on Peak Everest rose a Russian woman Ekaterina Ivanova. In 1992, the team of Lada-Everest climbers from Togliatti as part of 32 people climbed to the top and waters the flag of Russia and AvtoVAZ.

In 1995, the Russian team in honor of the 50 victory in the Great patriotic War 1941-45 Dedicated her ascent to Everest. They were the first to rise through the North Saddle. The flag of the USSR was raised on the peak, which on returning home was awarded to veterans of the Great Patriotic War.

In the spring of 2004, a group of Russian climbers in the number of 20 people from several cities: Moscow, Yekaterinburg, Sochi, Rostov-on-Don, Togliatti, Krasnoyarsk, Novokuznetsk, Kirov, Podolsk held to the top of the center of the North Wall - this is the most complex route among all the ascents .

Since the first climb on Everest, more than four thousand climbers rose. And although they say that now the rise in Rush Everest is put on the flow, annually more than 500 people participate in climbing, there is no guarantee that it will cost well. Two hundred and extension climbers died on its slopes, in the gorges and in the snowy abuse. But, despite these sacrifices, people wishing to visit the third pole not only without decreasing, but every year it increases. They commemorate huge difficulties associated with risk for life, but they strive for this top, which would look for a few minutes on the planet from the roof of the world.

Mount Everest (Jomolungma) It is the highest mountain in the world with a peak, towering at 8847 meters above sea level. The natural beauty of Everest, located on the border of Nepal and Tibet, in the area of \u200b\u200bMahalangur Himalayan mountains, has no equal. Incredible, but all 14 world peaks of more than 8,000 meters can be found in this area, providing the most extreme conditions for mountaineering in the world.

Mount Everest Information and Facts

• It is believed that Everest is more than 60 million years.
• Locals have long been honored Himalayan Mountains How the Motherland of the Gods, and until the 1900s local residents Did not rise to these sacred vertices. In Nepal, Everest is known as Sagarmatha, which is translated as the "goddess of the sky." In the same way in Tibet, Everest is known as Chomolungma, which means "Goddess - Mother of the Universe."
• Before the mountain was named after Sir George Everest in 1865, she was known simply as "peak 15".
• Climbers usually lose 4 to 9 kg. During his expedition to Everest.
• Everest is known as the "highest mountain in the world", as it is the highest point above sea level. Nevertheless, there are actually somewhat higher mountains around the world, such as Mauna Kea in Hawaii, but its main part is under water.
• Very few animals are able to survive in the upper reaches of the mountain, with the exception of the Himalayan spider jumping, some caterpillars and yellow chubs.

How Everest was formed

Mount Everest was formed about 60 million years ago by the movement of earthly tectonic plates, due to the collision of the Indian subcontinental plate with the Eurasian continental stove. The collision outlined marine limestone from the bottom of the Ancient Thethsian Sea, creating a characteristic lane of yellow rocks on top. Under the limestone, layers of black gneisse, which relate to the Era of Precambria, when continental plates originally encountered. Some evidence suggests that Himalayas continue to grow up, while other data indicate movement to the north-west and even shrinkage.

No one thought about Everest as the top of the world until the 19th century. In 1802, British geologists began a greater trigonometric shooting for mapping an Indian subcontinent. Heavy machinery, complex terrain, bad weather conditions, scorpions and malaria made work extremely difficult. Nevertheless, the geodesists were able to spend surprisingly accurate measurements. They announced that Himalayas, and not as previously thought, Andes were the highest mountain range in the world. By 1852, Everest, then "peak 15", was crowned as the king of all mountains, and by 1856 they calculated his height as 8840 meters above sea level. The 1999 survey with the use of modern GPS technology has shown that their calculations were inaccurate for only 8 meters.

Who was the first to rose to Everest?

New Zelandets Sir Edmund Hillary and Nepalese Sherpa Tencing Norja are considered the first to rose to the top of Everest in 1953. Before climbing, numerous climbers tried to rise to Everest, including George Mallory, who opened Northern route To the top in 1921, and George Finch, which for the first time reached a height of more than 8230 meters, using oxygen in 1922.

Nevertheless, there is a dispute around the attempt to climb Mallory and Andrew Irwin in 1924. Although the couple did not return from the expedition, the opinions were divided as to whether they reached the vertex of Everest to their untimely death. That would make them the first climbers who risen on the menu, 29 years old to Hillary and Norije.

Since then, ambitious recordsmans seek to contribute to the textbooks of Everest's history.

• The first fixed climbing on the top from the northern side of Mount Everest took place on May 25, 1960 by Tibetan Navang Gombu and Chinese climbers Van Fu-Zhou and Chu Yin-Hau.
• The first woman rising to Everest was Japanese Dzünko Tabay in 1975.
• For the first time reached the vertices without additional oxygen - Reinehold Messner and Peter Habel, in 1978.
• The first solo climber who has reached the vertices - Reinehold Messner in 1980.
• The first blind, reached the vertices - Eric Wehyenmayer in 2001.
• The oldest man who has reached the vertices is min Bahadur Schachan, 76 years old.
• The youngest man who has reached the peaks is Jordan Romero, at the age of only 13 years old.
• The first couple married to Mount Everest - Mona Mulepati and Peak Darya Sherpa, Nepalese couple, in 2005.

Weather on Evereste

Weather conditions on Everest extreme. January is the coldest month of the year, with maximum temperatures reaching -60 ° C. During the warmest month of the year, July, average temperature Registered at -7 ° C. The temperature never rises above zero. Vimpel-like clouds pointing to the East, which are often visible around the peak, are formed as a rich inhame air along the southern slopes of the Himalayas condenses and combines with Western winds that are against and around the peak of Everest. The position of these clouds can help climbers predict storms.

In addition to dangerously cold temperatures, wind and precipitation also represent a danger to climbers. During the Indian season of monsoon, from June to September, permanent wind and humidity are blowing out of Indian OceanWhat leads to frequent storms and heavy clouds. From November to February, the inkjet stream creates winds that blow with the power of hurricane, up to 285 km / h. High winds Frequently carry sand and stones, except snow and ice during storms. Most of the precipitation falls into the monsoon season, but also often winter storms.

Death on Everest

To date, more than 240 people died on Mount Everest. Unexpected storms, avalanches, frosts, strong winds and, of course, the dangers created by extreme altitudes, challenge even the most experienced climbers. Fortunately, thanks to the progress made in the field of modern climbing equipment and the use of highly qualified guides, the number of victims is currently significantly reduced. Climbers usually pass through the Basic Camp of Everest, and then 4 extra camps to allow their bodies to acclimatize to height.

1996 - the most deadly in Everest's history. On May 11, 1996, the expedition under the leadership of Scott Fisher and Rob Hall fell into an unexpected storm. Only on that day, Everest took 8 lives. Journalist and climber John Krakauer wrote the first story about the tragedy in which accused of tragedy instructors of the team "Mountain Madness". In response to the book of Krakauer, the Guide Anatoly Breuryv, another survivor after the tragedy, published the "climbing", the book in which all accusations of Krakauer.

Since the extraction of the bodies of the dead on the mountain would be dangerous, exhaustive work, most corpses remain the same. Given the ice temperatures, they are saved and act as trail markers for those who are trying to reach the top.

Magnificent landscapes of Jomolungma Mountain fascinate. The highest mountain is covered with glaciers, which give rise to a lot of mountain rivers and streams, and her peak is hidden in a fantastic haze. Nature around Everest is strikingly beautiful. The Asian Queen of the Mountains constantly manits risk lovers, climbers, climbers and simple travelers who love the real wild nature.

The highest mountain of the world is towers among the Gimalayan glaciers. Everest is a mountain of 8848 meters high, and this is an absolute record. The place in which the ancient vertex settled is located on the border of Nepal and China, at the intersection with the Tibetan JSC, but the highest point belongs to the last country - this is the peak of the main Himalayan ridge.

Queen Gor.

The intricate name "Jomolungma" comes from the Tibetan "Divine Mother Life", which symbolizes the vitality or wind. This name is given to a mountain peak in honor of the goddess Sherac Zhambima. Nepalese call the highest mountain mountain differently. "Sigarmatha" - the name of Everest in their language sounds. The translation coincides with the Tibetan version - "Mother of the Gods". The usual name "Everest" suggested the Englishman Andrew in 1856. At about the same time it was determined that Mount Everest is the height of the largest in the region.

On our planet, nine clear places are destroyed annually. Civilization did not get to natural monuments Only in rare exceptions, and the object of our attention refers to the number of such nature reserves. Mount Everest, whose photo was made in for different years, does not change his appearance.

From the side of Nepal "Mother of God" covered with two mountain peaks - Nuptsze and Lhotze, which are very high. To see the highest mountain of the world, you will have to move to a sufficiently large distance and climb on Cara Cala Pattar, which rises 5.5 km away. Another option is to rise to Gokio Ri, the height of which is almost the same. Only in this way you can see Everest in all pristine beauty. Of course, if Mountain was standing on the plain, among the valleys, alone, it would be easier for us to feel the power of this creation of nature. But the need to make additional efforts for the best perspective creates a special atmosphere.

Outward Mount Everest (photo very well shows it) resembles a somewhat irregular pyramid. The southern slope is at a large angle, so the snow and ice on it cannot be kept. The naked side gives the mountain a unique view.

Mountain Everest from sandy sediments and limestone, who used to serve as the bottom of the Ocean Tetis. It is impossible to believe, but scientists have proven that the peak used to be hidden under water. On Jomolungma still find seashells and other residual breeds of the seabed. 60 million years ago, the mainland began movement, tectonic plates split, and the Indian lithospheric plate has advanced to the north. When a collision with the Eurasian slab, a deformation was formed, due to which most of the ocean went underground. A stone barrier was formed, where Mountains are now located, including Everest. Himalayas are still growing, because geological processes have not yet stopped.

Because of their ancient history The climate of the mountains is enough unstable. In the very warm month of July, on top -19 C. In winter, the temperature can reach the mark -60 C. Above zero here never happens. Mussonny winds in the summer period bring a lot of precipitation and snowstorms, so this time is not the best for climbing.

Animals and plants dwell here reluctantly. A bit of grass and low-spirited shrubs, lichen, moss growing near the sole of Everest. Himalayan jumping spiders live here, only they can withstand the height of almost 7,000 meters above sea level. They eat frozen insects, who brought winds here. In addition to spiders, some sorts of grasshoppers live on the slopes. Starting from 6700 m in the Himalayas only microbes live. Birds are sometimes flying to the top - ducks and dwarfs that can withstand testing height.

Sacred Mount Sherpov

Among the indigenous population of Tibet can meet Sherpov. This is an emergency, which emigrated five centuries from China back to the southern side of the Himalayan Range. They protect their sacred mount Jomolungumbecause they consider it the inhabitants of the gods, demons and spirits.

Local legends say that the Indian preacher Padmasambhava, who became one of the founders of Buddhism, came up with organizing competitions, who rises faster to Everest. The opponent could not overcome the elder, and left the drum on the mountainside. Now always when avalanche descends from the mountains, the locals beat into the ritual drum, which is expelled.

The most striking records are set by the local population. So, the representative of Sherpov Tencing Norki, together with E.Hillari, the first climbed to the top. Two of his compatriot was there at least 20 times in life. Sherp Pemba Dorje spent only 8 hours 10 minutes.

Local beliefs for a long time banned to climb in the mountains of white people. It is believed that the first admitted trisul in 1907. From this point on, the story of the conquest of Everest begins.

History

The most first climber who decided to conquer Everest was the Indian mathematician Radhanat Sikdar. The profession helped him to calculate the height of the sacred mountain, so he was trained in the way. Overcoming a distance of 240 km, Sikdar has proved its calculations. It is worth noting that his research helped the British-Indian Geodesy service to organize an expedition to study the height of Jomolungma.

The conquest of Everest is an event that has managed to enter the saying. As soon as people found out that this is the highest mountain of the world, immediately began to conquer it. But successful ascent took place on May 29, 1953. E.Hillari and N.Tensing were able to conquer Everest. From this point on, the ascent to the Mount Jomolungma became a mandatory program for each climbers. This is a hard path that can often end tragically. On the road of professionals, oxygen deficit, low temperatures, squall wind, frostbite linked. it dangerous view extreme SportsFrom which it is often refused after the first prival at the beginning of the road.

Soviet climbers conquered Everest in 1982. Five days (from 4 to 9 May) 11 of our compatriots courageously fought with nature. A new peculiar record was also held - the first climb at night. The path to Everest, the mountain, the height and the bias directly affect the complexity of the rise, the Soviet athletes were done in their previously did not hine trail - on the south-western slope. One of the members of the expedition committed climbing without an oxygen cylinder, which is equal to death.

Everest - Mountain, the height of which was installed several decades. Finally, accurate measurements appeared only in the middle of the XX century. Chinese researchers voiced the figure in 8848 meters. I must say that in 1998 other data appeared. American scientists using the navigation system determined that Everest is above 2 meters than previously thought. Italian geodesists are generally inclined to count the height of Everest equal to 8872 meters, that is, 11 m above the initial assumptions. In modern science, they take a Chinese point of view.

Whatever the true height of the years of Jomolungma, it is not possible to conquer her vertex. Especially complex are the last few hundred meters. On this segment, most climbers handed over to risking health. The retreat, of course, is insulting, but the very fact of attempts is highly appreciated in the circles of lovers of mountains. According to statistics, only one attempt out of 10 is crowned with success.

Tourism

Despite the fact that the person has not yet reached local nature, last years A reserve opened around the mountain. Visit National Park Sagarmatha can all who have no opportunity to climb the highest point of the world. It is also very beautiful here.

For 50 years, almost 3,000 climbers from different parts of our planet turned out to be at the top of Everest. Jomolungma Mountain, during the rise, a lot of people was shot down avalanche, they died of supercooling and lack of oxygen. Modern equipment, oddly enough, does not save climbers from the actual risk, do not reach the top.

Nowadays, this type of extreme tourism is gaining increasingly popularity. Many lovers can not even imagine how difficult it is to rise to Mount Everest, the photo of which and the initial rise does not seem very difficult. Overcoming yourself, the fight against their own fears - here is what the main climbing motive. The same who climbed into the mountain of pure vanity will not succeed. Climbers say that the mountains feel the intention, and respond to proud tests.

It is worth noting that the inhabitants of Nepal earn good money due to the tourist sphere, but belong to new people with a considerable tolika distrust. They realize that sacred mountain Can kill anyone, but still rejoice in the flow of tourists. And people and manit the desire to test themselves on strength.

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) Let's remember why Everest is called Everest.

Everyone who has studied in school geography, without difficulty recall the name of the highest peak of the planet. Everest for a long time manits climbers, extremals and fans of the whole mysterious. Its height has repeatedly moved lately. Therefore, even in official materials there are three sets of numbers: 8848 m, 8850 m, 8844 m. The first one of them fell in our memory. The latter gave measurements from the Chinese side. This question is difficult, because we are talking about the height of the highest mountain of the Earth. And it is very correct that interested persons agreed to conditionally consider the height of 8848 meters in the near future.

Meanwhile, the current name of the highest mountain planet has received relatively recently, just a century ago. Tibetan monks from time immemorial called her Jomolungma - the "Goddess-Mother of the Earth". French missionaries, in the XVIII century, coming to the Himalayas, put it on the map under the name Ronclub - the so-called the Tibetan monastery built by order of the Dalai Lama on the northern slope of Mountain.

In Nepal, the highest of the mountains called Sagarmatha - "Heavenly Top". However, today the world is famous for the very name that the British gave her.

Dali in honor of a man who never rose to her top and not even approached her.

George Everest Born on July 4, 1790 in Wales, in the town of Gversvale, in the aristocratic family. For boys from secured English families of that time, a military career was typical, and George did not exception. After graduation, he entered the military school in Wolvice. George studied perfectly, especially pleased with his success teachers of mathematics. The Everest School graduated ahead of time, at the age of 16, and was sent to the service in India as a cadet-artilleryman.

Command, assessing its brilliant mathematical abilities, translated the young military in the geodesic service. In 1814, Everest went to an expedition to Java Island, where he spent two years.

In 1816, a 26-year-old officer is returned to India, and in two years he becomes deputy itself William Lambton- Head of the British Geodesic Service in India.

At this time, Lambton and his subordinates solve a truly titanic task - carrying out the geodesic shooting of India. It was not only about the country in modern borders, but also about the territories on which other states were formed, first of all, about Pakistan.

Theodolite - a measuring device used by George Everest

Features of Flora and Everest fauna

During the year, climatic conditions on Everest are considered very extreme. The coldest month is recognized January, since the average temperature ranges from -36 and to -60 ° C! But the warmest month, if it can be called it, is July, when the temperature does not fall below the election of -19 ° C. Amazing fact It is that water boiling point on the top of the mountain is only 70 ° C. This phenomenon is due to a pressure indicator that is only 326 mbar. Usually, in the spring and winter, Jomolungma characteristic Western wind.

Extreme conditions can withstand only a small part of plants and animals. In 1924, scientists had committed an amazing discovery, as it turned out, a jump spider belonging to the genus arageomorphic was found at an altitude of about 6,700 meters. In order to survive, a small spider has to hunt a small household and flies that live within 6000 meters. But insects, in turn, feed on lichens and some kind of fungi.

As part of the expedition held in 1925, experts found about 30 species of those lichens. Also, in the area of \u200b\u200b5,600 meters, scientists discovered a mountain goose. Only some species of birds can withstand pressure on top, and as feed they use climbers food waste.

"Peak XV"

This work began in 1806, and ended only after half a century, in 1856. George Everest spent most of his life on her.

In 1823, William Lambton died, and Everest became his successor. True, in two years he squeeed a heavy disease that forced to return to England.

In Britain, however, Everest continued to engage in issues of the Geodesic Service of India - ensured the supply of new devices, solved theoretical tasks and organizational issues.

In 1830, when health problems stayed behind, George Everest returned to India, where she worked for another 13 years.

During these years, the mountain peaks of the Himalayas were recorded, but the measurement of their height was not carried out. All the vertices were assigned a code name, and Jomolungma hit this list as "Peak XV".

Reward for merit

In 1843, the 53-year-old George Everest in the rank of Colonel was resigned and returned to England. Despite the solid age, a well-deserved geodesist decided to do that before that he did not have time - the creation of a family. It must be said that scientist in this is more than succeeded, to acquire six children.

The merits of George Everest in front of the British Empire was highly rated. In 1861, he was awarded the title "Sir", and in 1862 he was elected by the Vice-President of the Royal Geographical Society.

For many years, worked in the geodesic service in India, Everest raised a whole Phariad of students, one of which, Andrew V.In 1852 he worked on the determination of the height of the Himalayan peaks. Measurements have shown that "Peak XV" is not only the highest mountain of Himalayas, but also the highest point The globe.

The highest mountain of the world needed a suitable name. In 1865, the British Royal Geographical Society decided that in the recognition of merit in front of science and in honor of the 75th anniversary of Sir George Everest "Peak XV" must be assigned his name. In 1856, I expressed this idea in 1856, and for the nine subsequent years, the Community of English scientists came to the conclusion that Sir Everest is quite deserving.

Anniversary I didn't like this idea at first, but my colleagues insisted on their own. As a result, "Peak XV" first in English documents, and then "Everest" began to be called around the world.

Sir died, and the name lives

The memory of the merits of the academic geodesist remained only in the special literature and in the encyclopedias, but the name given the top was fixed so firmly that all its other names pushed.

In countries whose territory is directly adjacent to the Himalayas, in particular, in China and Nepal, have long been the proposals to return the top of the "historical" name. Cartographers, trying to reconcile the opposing parties, offer such an option: the mining massif receives the name of Jomolungma, and the vertex acquires the double name of Everest (Sagarmatha).

However, no matter how cool, for most people who do not oppress deep into such disputes, Everest remains Everest. It was most suitable for the highest peak of the planet turned out to be the surname of Sir-Geodesist.

It's funny that John Everest himself was Wales origin and called himself a manist. But Mount B. english transcription Impedance immediately began to call. For the whole world, poorly speaking in English, she also began to be called Everest .. that with a famous stretch can be called "always resting". Again, it is interesting that George himself was nickname "Naverest" - "Never resting."

Note that Everest himself in 1857 participated in the meeting on the names and spoke out against the use of his name. In his opinion, the name poorly corresponds to local languages \u200b\u200band cannot be assigned to the natives.

First climbing jomolungum

On May 26, 1953, an attempt was perfect for raising an impregnable Everest, but Charles Evans and Tom Burdillon, the participants of the British expedition, did not reach the top of only 100 meters! The reason for this was the sharp lack of oxygen. But a few days later - May 29, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norjei conquered an impregnable mountain. At the top of the climbers stayed for a short time, they managed to make several pictures and buried in the snow cross with a couple of chocolate chocolates.

Since Everest carries the title of the highest mountain in the world, tourists and climbers from all over the world are going at the foot of the mountain to make a difficult rise and conquer the impregnable slopes of Jomolungma. Thanks to many years of experience, professionals have a large set of secure routes. There are two most popular routes: following the northern ridge from Tibet and southeast of Nepal. The latter is considered technically easier, so it is recognized as the most popular among beginners.